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  1. #1

    Default Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Here is another side-by-side comparison of similar scents by the British companies Trumper, Penhaligon and Crown. I have done the pine/rosemary-oriented Wellington, Blenheim Bouquet, and Town and Country. Now I'm visiting the ferny forest line. These scents below all bear a relation to the classic Fougere Royale by Houbigant , but that is a separate issue which I won't explore here.

    Geo. F. Trumper Wild Fern 1877
    (Lavender?)
    Basil and oakmoss/leafy fougere
    (Sandalwood?) Patchouli, Musk

    Crown Fougere by Crown Perfumery 1880
    Lavender and Geranium
    Spices and fern note
    Sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli

    Penhaligon's English Fern 1911
    Lavender and Geranium
    Clover and oakmoss
    Sandalwood, Patchouli

    This was an interesting exercise of comparison. I learned a lot!
    Trumper's Wild Fern is very green and cheery scent. Clean, refreshing, and simple, with a slightly soapy quality. It has the least longevity of the three.
    Crown Fougere is amazing. The spice notes add incredible warmth and a suave character to the scent. I suspect the spices are cloves, pepper, nutmeg. Eventually the spices burn off and one is left with a fern note of great power and longevity.
    English Fern suffers in comparison (at least today). It comes off as sharp, a bit thin and translucent, and quite cool (almost aquatic). The geranium is most noticeable here, adding to the sharp quality. The green is leafier and edgier than WF.

    I like all three. But today I award the trophy to Crown Fougere. A pity that it's been discontinued.
    Last edited by odysseusm; 30th October 2009 at 02:56 PM.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  2. #2

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Thanks once again odysseusm. Just how long do you find Wild Fern to last on your skin; I might have to try it.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    odysseusm that fragance is the modern evolution of this 3?

    thanks
    #TOP 5#: Polo Crest, Romeo Gigli,Jockey Club C&M, Jean Pascal Homme,Floris N 89

  4. #4

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Quote Originally Posted by Dry_Martini View Post
    odysseusm that fragance is the modern evolution of this 3?

    thanks
    Hi Dry_Martini. I'm not sure what you mean by this. Maybe you can explain your question further.
    I think this sort of fougere scent is anti-modern. It is a very old-school, vintage sort of scent. But for that reason it has a real charm. All three of these scents are similar in that sort of style.
    But in comparison to true vintage fougeres, such as Houbigant's Fougere Royale which had a large amount of powerful oakmoss, these are good but they are diminished, smaller versions.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  5. #5

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Quote Originally Posted by JonB View Post
    Thanks once again odysseusm. Just how long do you find Wild Fern to last on your skin; I might have to try it.
    Thanks JonB. WF is a beautiful, charming scent. It has the least longevity of the three, but it is so fresh that it is meant to be re-applied as needed throughout the day. The freshness is the trade-off for longevity, the same applies to Hermes' Eau D'Orange Verte.
    Last edited by odysseusm; 31st October 2009 at 12:39 AM.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  6. #6

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    I was a bit dubious of Trumpers Wild Fern...I thought about it for a while and realized it had some wintergreen (or what I thought was WG) in it like Gendarme 20. I think that note is just not for me.

    Still, Wild Fern is true to the Trumpers line: even though it has a note I don't like, it never gets obnoxious about it.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    thnaks Odyseum, only asking for a fragance similar to this 3 but a little modern touch
    #TOP 5#: Polo Crest, Romeo Gigli,Jockey Club C&M, Jean Pascal Homme,Floris N 89

  8. #8

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Thank you, Dry_Martini. One modern take on this sort of scent is Bois 1920 Extreme . A classic scent in this style, but still more modern, is good old Armani pour Homme.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  9. #9

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    thanks Odyseum for his advice, and Armani Pour Homme Sir,YES, this was my first classic cologne,a true classic
    #TOP 5#: Polo Crest, Romeo Gigli,Jockey Club C&M, Jean Pascal Homme,Floris N 89

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    So for some odd unexplained reason, I've never tried a proper fern fragrance (ie: any of these 3 in the thread title), so I finally this morning decanted my Wild Fern by Geo F Trumper sample into a tiny atomizer so I could spray it on. It was a cool, cloudy morning - a touch of rain in the air and I was dressed up a bit too formally for work on Martin Luther King Day here at the office, so I thought 'What the hell'...let's bring a bit of 'green' and 'rolling hills' into the office with me today, and see what all the fuss is about.'

    I must say I was extremely disappointed.

    I like green scents. I like fougeres. I like classic, European eaux-style colognes. But, this one is an odd one. The way that the notes present themselves doesn't smell like what I was expecting.

    It certainly didn't feel fresh or particularly 'wild' either. It's a well behaved masculine aromatic fragrance - but very quickly it retracted itself into the folds of my jacket and the only accord I could detect for hours was a sort of lemony-stainless steel cleanser accord that I smell in YSL Pour Homme. In fact, this is the one small part of YSLPH that I do not like - and yet here it is again in the WF. Not quite as 'dirty' as the YSL, but very clearly I could smell it.

    I feel like I should give WF another try, perhaps sometime later (a hot summer day, maybe?) - but in the meantime, I'm thinking...maybe I'm not a 'fern' guy. Which, honestly, I'm not quite sure of, since I haven't tested many of them. All I know is this first impression was not good.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  11. #11

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    I am very curious about the Crown Fougere. GFT Wild Fern is great for about an hour, have yet to try Penhaligon's essay on the fern---- I believe it is an EDT--- how is the longevity on this one??

    Hahhaha, now that I think about it, GFT Wild Fern made me laugh when I first smelled it, as it felt very "fuzzy" when I splashed it on and then screamed to me "Yes, I am a fougere!"

  12. #12
    Basenotes Member xXClockwork's Avatar
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    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Crown Fougere is amazing. I highly recommend it if you can get a bottle of it before they're all gone. I mean.... It stinks! Stay far away!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Interesting topic, I was just thinking about Crown.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    I really appreciate this side-by-side comparison!

    I own English Fern, and I rather like the spicy-cool top/heart. Is that the geranium or are there some other aromatics in the mix? Also, I am rather curious how clover smells like on its own.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Thanks, Maque.
    English Fern is quite good, and in my opinion it is the closest easily-available scent to the legendary Houbigant Fougere Royale. The Houbigant re-issue is a joke and a sham, nothing at all like the vintage juice.
    The geranium is I'm sure geranium rose, a lovely British-style floral, a crisp rosy chord.
    I've long suspected that "clover" is a code for (a) a leafy-green note but also (b) clove/spice.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Comparison: Wild Fern, Crown Fougere, English Fern

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    I've long suspected that "clover" is a code for (a) a leafy-green note but also (b) clove/spice.
    I love the clover absolute in Trefle Pur. I think it's the real deal; it definitely brings me back to the school playground lawns of my youth.

    It's true that clover and clove are mixed up in marketing copy however. Same with cocoa and coca. Though coca is pretty uncommon of course.

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