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  1. #1

    Default IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    As we all know, the 43rd amendment to the IFRA's regulations on prohibited and restricted ingredients has many of us worried about our old favourites.

    The restriction of citrus oils and related synthetics (citral) has already forced companies like Goutal to reformulate much of their line, and may have been the cause of companies like Institut Tres Bien to fold completely.

    Other restrictions of note:

    -coumarin
    -eugenol/isoeugenol (carnation/clove accords)
    -hydroxycitronellal (major component in muguet/lily of the valley accords)
    -jasmine absolute
    -oakmoss extracts
    -treemoss extracts
    -peru balsam extracts
    -rose ketones
    -ylang ylang extracts

    I've already mentioned that I suspect Dior's new packaging of Diorella/Diorrisimo indicates potential new formulas. Guerlain started removing oakmoss a few years ago.

    I'm interested to hear if anyone is stocking up on anything in particular? What will happen to Chanel No. 5 parfum that relies to heavily on jasmine & ylang (not to mention oakmoss, and the eugenols).

    There's not much we can do to change what will happen, and who knows, maybe the reformulations will be great(?) I've personally already stocked up a bit on Mitsouko, Shalimar, No. 5, and Joy.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    I've read (Turin & Sanchez) that Eau d'Hadrien has been reformulated but what other Goutals have been?

  3. #3

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by 30 Roses View Post
    I've read (Turin & Sanchez) that Eau d'Hadrien has been reformulated but what other Goutals have been?
    I believe (don't quote me) that Eau de Sud has been as well, and les Nuits (it's awful now). I imagine many of their florals will suffer too.

    I'm not a big Goutal fan either way, but if their biggest seller goes downhill, I imagine that will hurt them immensely.

  4. #4
    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Well...I have Eau d'Hadrien but wear it infrequently so it will last me, no need to stock up on that.

    It would be good to see a list (if there is one) of fragrances that are likely to be reformulated due to the new restrictions.

  5. #5

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    ^^ That's sort of what I was hoping for by starting the thread.

    I guess most of the Eau de Cologne's will suffer...Guerlain, Chanel, etc. I imagine Eau d'Orange Verte would be affected.

    I know Chanel No. 5 parfum will suffer from the jasmine & ylang, as will Joy. Diorissimo already smells different to me. Shalimar's topnotes will suffer.

    What I'm not certain of is how the perfume companies will respond. I guess they could ignore the regulations, or come up with brilliant reformulations, or most likely, crash and burn. It's a sad time for perfume.

  6. #6

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    ^^ That's sort of what I was hoping for by starting the thread.

    I guess most of the Eau de Cologne's will suffer...Guerlain, Chanel, etc. I imagine Eau d'Orange Verte would be affected.

    I know Chanel No. 5 parfum will suffer from the jasmine & ylang, as will Joy. Diorissimo already smells different to me. Shalimar's topnotes will suffer.

    What I'm not certain of is how the perfume companies will respond. I guess they could ignore the regulations, or come up with brilliant reformulations, or most likely, crash and burn. It's a sad time for perfume.
    I wonder if they (the perfume companies) could make the case that the per-use and life-time exposure quantity of their ingredients is so small as to remove the potential risk.

    But my initial thought was: who are these bullies making up these regulations, and why is everyone bowing down to them??
    Last edited by vonMises; 5th November 2009 at 06:32 PM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    I won't be stocking up on anything.

    Just full of lament, that's all.
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  8. #8

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by vonMises View Post
    I wonder if they (the perfume companies) could make the case that the per-use and life-time exposure quantity of their ingredients is so small as to remove the potential risk.

    But my initial thought was: who are these bullies making up these regulations, and why is everyone bowing down to them??
    These are the bullies:

    http://www.ifraorg.org/

    Clearly whoever started this organization had to sit next to someone who wore Amarige and is now acting out of spite. That's my guess.

  9. #9

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Just wondering what legal authority IFRA has and what over exactly what jurisdiction it claims. I get the impression that the EU is cowering under their bully tactics. I live in the USA, and I'm about finished with the encroachment of the nanny state. They want to legalize mind-rotting drugs and criminalize perfumes. Something about that stinks.





    .
    Last edited by Indie_Guy; 5th November 2009 at 06:44 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    ^^ I'm not sure what authority, etc. they have...I'm by no means an expert on the subject. Hopefully someone who is will chime in and give us the dirt. All I know is that many of my personal fav's could potentially be done for.

    I bought yet another bottle of No. 5 parfum today out of fear. :-\

  11. #11

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    These are the bullies:

    http://www.ifraorg.org/

    Clearly whoever started this organization had to sit next to someone who wore Amarige and is now acting out of spite. That's my guess.
    They don't claim any authority which I can see on the website; compliance seems to be voluntary. I am happy they don't use guns to enforce their edicts, but why would a perfumer go out of business rather than ignore the IFRA?

  12. #12

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Peer pressure?

  13. #13
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Re Eugenol - does this mean my beloved Opium will also change ? Or has it already changed ?

    I am also full of lament like Scentsitivity and fear like Sofresh.
    Mitsouko is no longer what it was - a pale shadow now.
    Maybe I need to get some Joy parfum .
    Perfumers are really kind of shooting themselves in the foot with these reformulations.
    I am also far from an expert and I just don't understand it at all .

    My analogy is this...people are allergic to nuts but there's still peanut butter etc. Why can't they just leave things they way they are /were and put labels on perfume bottles and boxes with a warning like ...... 'warning : contains eugenol, citrus oil ,oakmoss etc...' like they do on food products like nut based foods ?

    I really would like to know what the IFRA's end goal is ... apart from strangling the perfume industry and driving all of us bonkers ? !
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 5th November 2009 at 09:22 PM.
    Petty small minded people have no place in my life.
    Currently wearing: Angel by Thierry Mugler

  14. #14
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Lately, as soon as I find something I really like, I start saving up for another bottle, ASAP.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Indie_Guy View Post
    Just wondering what legal authority IFRA has and what over exactly what jurisdiction it claims. I get the impression that the EU is cowering under their bully tactics. I live in the USA, and I'm about finished with the encroachment of the nanny state. They want to legalize mind-rotting drugs and criminalize perfumes. Something about that stinks.





    .
    Stinks is right! It's bullsh*t.

  16. #16

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Given the lack of transparency from the companies it's anyone's guess as to which ones have already reformulated or are about to - clearly some have made changes over the last couple of years if reports here and from LT are to be believed (and I think they are).

    I keep an eye out for older editions and don't mind buying a back-up of real favourites - let's face it, if the name has been flagged or they still at least seem to contain oakmoss (my main worry) they MIGHT be reformulated and the price is not going to DOWN in the future so if it means a lot to you why not lay down one or two for a rainy day?

  17. #17

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    According to LT and TS's most recent release almost all of the Diors have been badly tampered with and Chanel No.5 Parfum was marked down from 5 to 4 stars due to reformulation (something Chanel claimed would not happen ","When the new IFRA standards were issued we immediately checked the percentages of jasmine grandiflora and sambac in our finished products, and in none of our fragrances is the recommended level exceeded" http://blogofbile.com/2009/09/24/perfume-polic/).

    You can also add Bandit to the list of DOA by IFRA.

    This excellent pdf file put together by the non profit watch dog Cropwatch answers a lot of questions about what the IFRA changes will cover (200+ ingredients) naturalperfumers.com/FAQ%20Feb8%20Cropwatch%20IFRA.pdf

    If you are interested in the exact regulation levels and proper chemical names check out the IRFA webstite (http://www.ifraorg.org/Home/Code,+St...s/page.aspx/56)

    Quote Originally Posted by Indie_Guy View Post
    Just wondering what legal authority IFRA has and what over exactly what jurisdiction it claims. I get the impression that the EU is cowering under their bully tactics. I live in the USA, and I'm about finished with the encroachment of the nanny state. They want to legalize mind-rotting drugs and criminalize perfumes. Something about that stinks.
    It's a European organization but it's not a branch of the EU. The EU regulations are much laxer than the IFRA regulations (for now) but that is immaterial since some huge proportion of perfume manufacturers are IFRA members.

    The real issue is that the fragrance houses aren't opposing the IFRA; they are the IFRA. The donations (I'll dig up a donor's list later), the majority of the board of directors, are all employee of or tied to the big fragrance companies (Givaudan, IFF, etc.) It's like a conspiracy theory but its real

  18. #18
    Lian's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    I got another bottle of A La Nuit and I plan to buy another Bandit. That's pretty much it though.
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.

  19. #19

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Question - will the ingredient labels now require the listing of jasmine & ylang absolutes (if present)? They aren't fully prohibited, just restricted. I ask because it's going to be tricky to differentiate between old and new just by looking at ingredients...ditto for oakmoss...it can still be used, just not in the same quantities as before.

    I hope the No. 5 parfum I just bought was the pre-reform.
    Last edited by Dane; 6th November 2009 at 02:21 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    Question - will the ingredient labels now require the listing of jasmine & ylang absolutes (if present)? They aren't fully prohibited, just restricted. I ask because it's going to be tricky to differentiate between old and new just by looking at ingredients...ditto for oakmoss...it can still be used, just not in the same quantities as before.

    I hope the No. 5 parfum I just bought was the pre-reform.
    I don't think the labels will now require listing jasmine or ylang. As I recall, that's an EU regulation that covers some 30+ ingredients and that law has yet to change.

    The biggest tip off I've seen so far is when oakmoss disappears from the label and only treemoss appears. The possible reason is that Givaudan and other companies have created oakmoss synthetics but no treenoss substitute currently exists hence the .1% moss allowance is used on treemoss.

    Could you list all of the ingredients listed on your Chanel No.5 package? Perhaps we can get others to compare their versions and look for any change.
    Last edited by Zizanioides; 6th November 2009 at 04:42 PM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Alcohol; Parfum; Linalool; Benzyl Alcohol; Benzyl Benzoate; Benzyl Cinnamate; Benzl Salicylate; Cinnamyl Alcohol; Citral; Citronellol; Coumarin; Eugenol; Farnesol; Geraniol; Hydroxycitronellal; Isoeugenol; Limonene; Alpha-iso-methyl Ionone; Evernia Prunastri (Oak Moss) Extract

    The box for the other bottle I bought is at home...can't recall if they list is the same or not (for obvious reasons).

  22. #22
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    ......
    Last edited by pluran; 6th November 2009 at 07:31 PM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zizanioides View Post
    You can also add Bandit to the list of DOA by IFRA.
    Any opinions on when Bandit is or was re-reformulated? I have a sample sent from Robert Piguet about a month ago and love it. If the bottle is likely to be the same, whether it's old or new formulation, I'll buy myself one now. If we're in transition Right Now, so that I can't be sure if the bottle matches the sample... well, I don't have a plan.

  24. #24

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    Alcohol; Parfum; Linalool; Benzyl Alcohol; Benzyl Benzoate; Benzyl Cinnamate; Benzl Salicylate; Cinnamyl Alcohol; Citral; Citronellol; Coumarin; Eugenol; Farnesol; Geraniol; Hydroxycitronellal; Isoeugenol; Limonene; Alpha-iso-methyl Ionone; Evernia Prunastri (Oak Moss) Extract

    The box for the other bottle I bought is at home...can't recall if they list is the same or not (for obvious reasons).
    Well this is interesting...I have a different ingredient list on the other bottle of No. 5 parfum I bought:

    Alcohol; Parfum; Linalool; Coumarin; Hydroxycitronellal; Geraniol; Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone; Citronellol; Benzyl Benzoate; Cinnamyl Alcohol; Eugenol; Benzyl Salicylate; Limonene; Farnesol; Benzyl Alcohol; Evernia Prunastri (Oak Moss) Exxtract; Citral; Benzyl Cinnamate; Isoeugenol; Cinnamal

    I think I'll start a new thread for this...getting off-topic.

  25. #25

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    I have been horading citruses for some time. Eaux de Cologne are finished really. The quality will never be the same. Trumper Limes was changed in '06 or '07 for the worse and is changing again I believe.
    There are so many that have been offered cheap in quantity that I cannot believe it is not pre-reform sell off.

    Also masuline classics with muguet/jasmine hearts and mossy bases are being changed. I have laid down a few bottles of favourites.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  26. #26

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by ChickenFreak View Post
    Any opinions on when Bandit is or was re-reformulated? I have a sample sent from Robert Piguet about a month ago and love it. If the bottle is likely to be the same, whether it's old or new formulation, I'll buy myself one now. If we're in transition Right Now, so that I can't be sure if the bottle matches the sample... well, I don't have a plan.
    Oh dear, perhaps I spoke too soon. I was sent a sample in August from FF&C in New York(ref # 77011) and was very disappointed to smell Bandit as a shadow of its former self. The ingredients no longer have Oak Moss on them so I assumed it was a reformulation issue. Whats the reference number on yours? Perhaps they worked out the kinks or maybe I just got a bad sample.

  27. #27

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zizanioides View Post
    Oh dear, perhaps I spoke too soon. I was sent a sample in August from FF&C in New York(ref # 77011) and was very disappointed to smell Bandit as a shadow of its former self. The ingredients no longer have Oak Moss on them so I assumed it was a reformulation issue. Whats the reference number on yours? Perhaps they worked out the kinks or maybe I just got a bad sample.
    It may indeed be a shadow of its former self - I just never smelled its former self.

    I liked it very much, but it wasn't what I expected. It was very shy for a big, bad leather when I dabbed it, but got pretty emphatic when I sprayed.

    But even then, I got more of a Warm Big Cat Sleeping In The Sun feeling than a crack-the-whip one. I was reminded, among other things, of Dzing! (Though I suppose properly Dzing! should remind me of Bandit, not the other way around.)

    I'm experiencing it almost as a comfort scent, at least if comfort includes taking a nice warm nap with a lion, and that does _not_ sound like the Bandit that I've heard described.

    I don't see any number on the vial, and I'm afraid that I tossed the packaging. According to my email, it was sent October 13, if that helps at all.

  28. #28

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Lately, as soon as I find something I really like, I start saving up for another bottle, ASAP.
    +1. Actually, in my case, I get 2 more bottles!
    Q: How do you make a feminine fragrance masculine?
    A: Add 'Pour Homme' to the bottle
    - Pierre Bourdon

  29. #29

    Angry Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    Has Odalisque been reformulated? I just purchased a large bottle which I wish I could return. The lovely lily has been replaced by leather; the salty oakmoss is gone; and the incense is nonexistent. I paid for Odalisque...I got something that does not even resemble the first two bottles that I purchased. How can we perfume junkies tell if something has been changed before we make a purchase. I bet that the testers on the counters of department stores contain the old juice, not to mention that many of us buy on the internet.

  30. #30

    Default Re: IFRA restrictions - which has you most worried/stocking up?

    PS I just madly (ie. crazily & angrily) purchased No 5, Joy, Mitsouko, Diorella & Shalimar. I hope that Ebay & Amazon are still pushing the old stuff. I would love to get my hands on an old bottle of Odalisque. What a shame! The perfume industry should have the kind of lobbyists that are here in the US. Those folks can shut down any attempt for change! I'm all for putting the skull & crossbones on the label and leaving the juice "as is". OMG...I forgot Cristalle! I'll be back...

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