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  1. #1
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    Default Reformulated Fragrance List

    A follow up to the IFRA restrictions thread ,I started this so everyone who has noticed a change in ingredients in their perfume can make a note here. We need everything from your Chanels, Opium, Carons, Guerlains, Patricia de Nicolai...anything and everything you have noticed recently ( not reformulations from ...say ,the 1950s . ) . We can then compile a list of perfumes suspected of reformulation in accordance to the new IFRA guidelines, even if it has not been offically announced as such .
    If you could make a note of which ingredients have changed too and the change in the scent compared to the older version of the perfume.


    I cannot say for sure,right now.... what will become of this list but we will, at the very least, have a permanent record of the reformulated perfumes.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th November 2009 at 09:32 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Mitsouko - less moss, less spice, no farnesol

  3. #3

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Will do, Mysticknot, and thanks!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    -No. 5 parfum (change on ingredient list, although I can't really smell much difference)

    Assumptions - jasmine & ylang reduced, as well as oakmoss, hydroxycitronellal, etc.
    Last edited by Dane; 10th November 2009 at 12:58 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Feminite du Bois- thinner, less cedar, perhaps to reduce the thujones??

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    Will do, Mysticknot, and thanks!
    Thanks Lilybelle !

    Opium - new extrait bottle to be released... means new juice ,most likely .....
    Will keep an eye out for the ingredients changes .


    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th November 2009 at 03:05 PM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by tott View Post
    Mitsouko - less moss, less spice, no farnesol
    This is the kind of information we need. Voicing suspicions of reformulations is helpful but we need as much confirmation as we can to convince people that we aren't crying wolf.

    In this thread http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=239233 Sofresh types out the ingredient/allergen list on the back of two Chanel No. 5 bottles and that allowed us to (with room for doubt, of course) confirm that the parfum version has been reformulated.

    So if you have something you love and want to know if its been reformulated, post the ingredients/allergen list from the back of the box along with any reference number and information about when/where you bought it. By comparing notes we have a better chance of finding a reformulation. Having a rich patron pay for gas chromatograph analysis would be perfect but I don't think we have any volunteers just yet

    Here are mine (my collection is very limited, I just started 6 months ago and most of it is from the Perfumed Court without the allergen list):

    Bandit: reference #77011, sample vial sent from the distributors New York office, recieved in July, and the ingredients are:
    -Alcohol Denat, Water (Aqua), Fragrance (Parfum), Alpha Isomethyl, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Geraniol,
    Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydrocitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl, 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, BHT, Butyl Methoydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate

    Azzaro Pour Homme: ref. # 980802, bought from TJ Maxx in May,
    -alcohol, Parfum/fragrance, limonene, Linalool, hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Alcohol, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Eugenol, Alpha Isomethyl Ionine, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxycitronellal, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Anise Alcohol

    The Bandit is miles away from the other sample I have, almost unrecognizable. I believe the Azzaro is pre-IFRA standard formula but I did see a bottle with new packaging recently, hinting at a reformulation.

    If anyone has any info to compare, please list it its a pain to do but stopping people from spending money on marred classics is a great service to everyone.
    Last edited by Zizanioides; 10th November 2009 at 09:16 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    My old sample of La Haie Fleurie and my new sample are very different. (Stock up on jasmine as though your life depends on it!) The "bigger bottle" seems to be an indication. First, the fragrance is on "backorder", and then suddenly, there are no more smaller bottles. This was the case with Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolai, too. I am so sorry that I do not have the box with the new ingredients for you to compare. I am so disappointed with the new. It is flat and quite unremarkable and a very expensive mistake. Also, another indication is what I call "the big dump" to stores like Costco and TJ Maxx. Today I purchased a Badgley Mischka set at TJ Maxx for under $40...1/2 ou pure parfum, 1.7 ou eau de parfum and a large lotion. I remember that set going for almost $300 at Saks not long ago. It contains the dreaded oakmoss(evernia prunastri) and coumarin, so even though it is made in the US, I suspect that it will be reformulated or discontinued. So stock up, kiddies, if it isn't too late to find your favorites! I purchased Joy (in every concentration) for the first time. Habanita & Baghari contain oakmoss & coumarin. I love them along with the classics Mitsouko, Chanel No 5, Shalimar & Diorella. I am angry that Dior has changed Diorella, but at least they changed the bottle & packaging, too, so that you know you are in for a change. Please, folks, let's keep this thread going!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    This is such a nice, precise thread. I suppose my disgruntled "New Tabac Blond Sucks!" isn't really helpful so much as a Captain Obvious non sequitur, LOL.

    Does jasmine tend to degrade in vintage formulations? I have a sample of current No 5 EdT and a full bottle of vintage EdT, and I swear the modern sample is WAY more floral.....is this the sign of a reformulation or is it just that my vintage bottle has lost some of the oomph from its topnotes?
    Do you think "Old Lady Perfume" is a compliment? Join the Scent of an Old Woman Social Group and chat in-depth about vintage and classic fragrances!


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  10. #10

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by Zizanioides View Post
    This is the kind of information we need. Voicing suspicions of reformulations is helpful but we need as much confirmation as we can to convince people that we aren't crying wolf.

    In this thread http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=239233 Sofresh types out the ingredient/allergen list on the back of two Chanel No. 5 bottles and that allowed us to (with room for doubt, of course) confirm that the parfum version has been reformulated.

    So if you have something you love and want to know if its been reformulated, post the ingredients/allergen list from the back of the box along with any reference number and information about when/where you bought it. By comparing notes we have a better chance of finding a reformulation. Having a rich patron pay for gas chromatograph analysis would be perfect but I don't think we have any volunteers just yet

    Here are mine (my collection is very limited, I just started 6 months ago and most of it is from the Perfumed Court without the allergen list):

    Bandit: reference #77011, sample vial sent from the distributors New York office, recieved in July, and the ingredients are:
    -Alcohol Denat, Water (Aqua), Fragrance (Parfum), Alpha Isomethyl, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Geraniol,
    Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydrocitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl, 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Linalool, BHT, Butyl Methoydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate

    Azzaro Pour Homme: ref. # 980802, bought from TJ Maxx in May,
    -alcohol, Parfum/fragrance, limonene, Linalool, hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Alcohol, Coumarin, Citral, Evernia Prunastri (Oakmoss) Extract, Eugenol, Alpha Isomethyl Ionine, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxycitronellal, Evernia Furfuracea (Tree Moss) Extract, Farnesol, Anise Alcohol

    The Bandit is miles away from the other sample I have, almost unrecognizable. I believe the Azzaro is pre-IFRA standard formula but I did see a bottle with new packaging recently, hinting at a reformulation.

    If anyone has any info to compare, please list it its a pain to do but stopping people from spending money on marred classics is a great service to everyone.
    I looked at my old Mitsouko boxes, but they only list Alcohol, Water & Perfume on the ingredient list. :S

  11. #11

    Smile Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by YouCanCallMeMo View Post
    This is such a nice, precise thread. I suppose my disgruntled "New Tabac Blond Sucks!" isn't really helpful so much as a Captain Obvious non sequitur, LOL.

    Does jasmine tend to degrade in vintage formulations? I have a sample of current No 5 EdT and a full bottle of vintage EdT, and I swear the modern sample is WAY more floral.....is this the sign of a reformulation or is it just that my vintage bottle has lost some of the oomph from its topnotes?
    Chanel No 5 never was floral in the way that Joy is floral. I could never quite sort out the jasmine and rose notes; they were just little pieces of the beautiful puzzle. I don't know if it is the aldehydes that have evaporated in your edt. I, too, have vintage edt which smells much more like the pure parfum than my "fresh" edt does. I hope that helps. PS You are correct. "New Tabac Blond Sucks".

  12. #12

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    I don't really get many florals from No. 5 EDT either...I'm sure they're there, but not in the same way as some scents. It's more of a big abstract thing than something I could pick apart into separate notes.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    I looked at my old Mitsouko boxes, but they only list Alcohol, Water & Perfume on the ingredient list. :S
    I was reading some material online about reformulations etc - before frgarance companies were forced to list ingredients- all that was stated was alcohol ,water and perfume .

    www.cropwatch.org is a good read re. reformulations and IFRA .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    We can add all of the Caron scents to this list. They have been heading down this road for a little while now.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser sa source

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    I am trying to keep a complete record of all the perfumes you are listing ,on my PC . Thanks guys - could you also add the perfume house that makes the scent too , if the scent is more obscure.
    ( I am also keeping notes in general ....... )
    Thanks ... Mysticknot is a little thick at times !
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 11th November 2009 at 05:14 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  16. #16
    Scentronic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    I will not personally verify this, as I'd require further side-by-side testing/comparison-

    Some people have mentioned Domenico Caraceni 1913 as having been reformulated, at the same time as the bottle change, about a year ago.

    I'm not entirely sure. I just wanted to get it on the list.
    Lately I've been wearing:
    Windsor, Bois de Santal, Original Santal, Elixir, Douro, Endymion, Reflection, Arcus, Marwah

  17. #17

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    No one quote me on this, because I could be wrong...but...

    Chanel Pour Monsieur smells slightly different to me now. I tried a brand new tester that a store just took out of the box and the drydown lacks the spicy-moss of the bottle I have at home (from maybe 3 or 4 years ago). The topnotes also seem fruitier somehow.

    I also noticed that the ingredient list on the back of the box is a sticker over the previous ingredient list. That could mean anything, and I could just be having a bad sniffer day.

    ps - I'm going to re-try my bottle tonight and see if I'm just dreaming...will edit this post if I am.
    Last edited by Dane; 11th November 2009 at 05:28 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Would the Parfums D'Orsay relaunches in the 1990s (pardon the pun) count?
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Poison by Christian Dior

  19. #19

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Would the Parfums D'Orsay relaunches in the 1990s (pardon the pun) count?
    For our current purposes I think we are trying to focus on reformulations in the past 2 or even 3 years. The 43rd Amendment was issued in 2008 but it looks like some companies got an early start on reformulations since the impending guidelines weren't a secret, just not implemented.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    A slew of Dior's have appeared in new packaging, of which
    Dolce Vita
    Hypnotic Poison (more almond, less vanilla/playdoh)
    Pure Poison (more neroli, less soap)
    have definitely been reformulated. New ingredients listings on the packaging too.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    the most recent incarnation of Guerlain Heritage no longer contains oakmoss. Scentwise it's slightly less warm than the 3rd incarnation. How many times do they have to reformulate a single frag?
    Last edited by joey86; 11th November 2009 at 08:38 PM.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    I have a brand new box of L'Heure Bleue EdP that I can transcribe, but none of the older versions. This is the gold box with a textured vertical stripe, not the previous box with the black box around the text....
    This is the one I have, except I have the Eau de Parfum and this box is for the EdT:



    Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Linalool, limonene, coumarin, benzyl benzoate, evernia furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Benzyl Cinnamate, Cintronellol, Eugenol, Bht, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, isoeugenol, benzyl alcohol, citral, cinnnamal, cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate
    Last edited by YouCanCallMeMo; 11th November 2009 at 09:16 PM.
    Do you think "Old Lady Perfume" is a compliment? Join the Scent of an Old Woman Social Group and chat in-depth about vintage and classic fragrances!


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  23. #23
    tott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by YouCanCallMeMo View Post
    Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum (Fragrance), Aqua (Water), Linalool, limonene, coumarin, benzyl benzoate, evernia furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Benzyl Cinnamate, Cintronellol, Eugenol, Bht, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, isoeugenol, benzyl alcohol, citral, cinnnamal, cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate
    I have a L'Heure Bleue EdP from 2004 (?) with the following ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum, Aqua, Linalool, Limonene, Coumarin, Benzyl Bensoate, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Benzyl cinnamate, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Cinnamal, Benzyl alcohol, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Farnesol, Benzyl salicylate.

    This means that we have the following discrepancies in the list of ingredients:
    Present in old, missing in new: Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Farnesol
    Present in new, missing in old: evernia furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Bht

    Funny thing about the moss? Maybe it wasn't required to declare earlier, or it was introduced to replace the missing farnesol? I'm just speculating, but it seems like farnesol has a flowery/fresh and green smell, acts as a fixative and is considered extremely dangerous…

  24. #24

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    ^ treemoss and oakmoss are different ingredients

  25. #25
    tott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Yes, of course they are. I was still surprised to see moss as a new ingredient, since treemoss also seems to be considered risky.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    This list is as follows ( * stand for fragrances reformulated but not necessarily because of the IFRA guidelines 2010 )



    Antaeus Chanel
    Azzaro Pour Homme
    A La Nuit Serge Lutens

    Bandit Robert Piguet
    Baghari RP
    Bergamote The Different Company
    Burberry Original

    Coco Chanel
    Cristalle Chanel
    Colonia AdP
    Chergui Serge Lutens

    Diorella Dior
    Dolce Vita Dior *

    Feminite du Bois Shiseido /SL
    First Van Cleef and Arpels

    Habanita Molinard
    Hypnotic Poison Dior *

    Joy Jean Patou
    Juste un Reve Patricia de Nicolai

    L'Heure Bleu Guerlain

    La Chasse Aux Papillons L'Artisan Parfumeur * ? due to IFRA regulations ?
    La Haie Fleurie L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Miel de Bois Serge Lutens
    Miss Dior Dior
    Mitsouko Guerlain

    No.1 Patricia de Nicolai
    No.5 Chanel
    No.19 Chanel

    Odalisque Patricia de Nicolai

    Opium Yves St Laurent ( To be confirmed )

    Paloma Picasso EDP
    Pour Monsieur Chanel
    Pure Poison Dior *

    Samsara Guerlain
    Shalimar Guerlain

    Tabac Blond Caron


    Un Bois Sepia Serge Lutens
    Un Lys Serge Lutens ( still contains farnesol )

    ** Could you tell me how Tabac Blond has changed and any other Carons ? Mo? Brielle ?

    Thanks everyone ...keep them coming..... Let me know if I missed one out !
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 24th November 2009 at 09:15 PM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    La Haie Fleurie is by L'Artisan Parfumeur.

    I strongly suspect that La Chasse Aux Papillions, also by L'Artisan Parfumeur has also been reformulated, and wondered whether anyone had any information or insight on it.

    (the reason I think so is because I have an old bottle, from c. 2001, and can smell it quite distinctly... bought a new bottle last February, and I cannot smell it -- feels as if my nose has been anesthetized ).

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Many thanks TallulahRose!
    I have amended the list.......
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Un Lys by Serge Lutens?
    Smells very different from earlier bottles. I even sent one back to them, but they replied there was nothing wrong with it. (I did get to choose another scent - very nice!) I vaguely remember reading in an interview with Serge Lutens that every perfume house is obliged by French law to reformulate every four years?!?!?!?
    Of course I no longer have the old boxes so I cannot compare the ingredients, but 'old' Lys smells lighter, sweeter, more flowery, and the new one has an opressive, slightly oily, musty, industrial ring to it. Even my husband smelled the difference! By the way, the new one still has farnesol in it. Does that make it a health hazard?

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Quote Originally Posted by minerva View Post
    Un Lys by Serge Lutens?
    Smells very different from earlier bottles. I even sent one back to them, but they replied there was nothing wrong with it. (I did get to choose another scent - very nice!) I vaguely remember reading in an interview with Serge Lutens that every perfume house is obliged by French law to reformulate every four years?!?!?!?
    Of course I no longer have the old boxes so I cannot compare the ingredients, but 'old' Lys smells lighter, sweeter, more flowery, and the new one has an opressive, slightly oily, musty, industrial ring to it. Even my husband smelled the difference! By the way, the new one still has farnesol in it. Does that make it a health hazard?
    Hmmm, interesting. I will add it to the list.

    Also re.
    Jicky - I looked at my new packaging EDP - there's coumarin, eugenol , farnesol listed as part of the ingredients but I would like to know if this is already the new formulation according to IFRA regulations or if anyone thinks Jicky will be reformulated again ?
    I definitely think the new EDP packaged juice is lighter and not as long lasting ...... anyone have the same experience ? I wonder if it is just me and my skin ? 3 sprays is not enough , more like 5 - 8 sprays for me .
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 12th November 2009 at 11:18 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

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