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  1. #1
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    JaimeB's Avatar
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    Default Dr. Vranjes: Information and Opinions?

    I recently had my first opportunity to smell (and purchase) some fragrances from a house called Dr. Vranjes, of Venice. It is a name I had seen a few times before, but as I had no idea were to find the products and had no recollection of opinions about it, I gave it little thought.

    Having smelled some of the scents at a local store of some repute, Gump's, here in San Francisco, I found myself looking for information about them. I learned from their website that they make some room scents and a couple of lines of personal scent of about six offerings each, and that the house was established in Venice in 1983. There were few other details.

    I have come to feel that these scents, while simple, seem to be made of good quality materials; they also impress me as being well-constructed and well-balanced.

    I would like to know more, and so I am asking any Basenoters who read this post to contribute to this thread with further information and opinions. I would like to go back to the store where I found them and sniff the rest of the ones in stock there, but I felt that three in one visit (Ambra e Iris, Bergamotto e Mirto, and Zagara e Patchouli) were all I could honestly handle with due care and attention.

    Thanks in advance to all of you who care to respond to this thread.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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    Currently wearing: Red Vetyver by Montale

  2. #2
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dr. Vranjes: Information and Opinions?

    I also sniffed these at Gumps.

    Dr. Vranjes is mostly know for home fragrance, the epitome of his work being his Rosso Nobile home fragrance, based on pomegranate and red wine, which I would buy as a perfume in a heartbeat, were it available.

    I was intrigued by his new line of perfume extraits. Thankfully, Gumps has samples of these available if you ask. I gave full wearings to three of them, Bergamotto Mirto, Gigember Estragon, and Vetiver Poivre. Aside from a house note of mint that's shared by all three, whether appropriate or not (the bergamot/mint combo was especially interesting, if ill-advised), they all had bases which I didn't care for.

    Sometimes, it feels like home-scent or candle companies (functional perfumers, as it were), which are used to making scents focussed entirely on the topnotes, expose their weakness as artistic perfumers through their weak bases (another line available at Gumps, Zents, falls trap to this same problem occasionally)

    That being said, I'm simply not a fan of some Italian perfume standards (powdery ambers, toothachingly-sweet orange vanillas), so much of what I've said here may be due to my own prejudices, so take it with a grain of salt...
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  3. #3

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    Default Re: Dr. Vranjes: Information and Opinions?

    I tried these at Bergdorf Goodman and I ended up buying Vetiver Poivre. I loved it on the test strip with its peppery, eucalyptus, and hint of vetiver. Unfortunately on my skin this quickly dries down to a bse of ambergris that smells too feminine. Also not enough vetiver in it for me. I'll end up putting this up for sale.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Dr. Vranjes: Information and Opinions?

    Ambra & Iris
    I'm significantly impressed by the gorgeous royal beauty of this Dr Vranjes Ambra & Iris. Opening is simply stunning, one of the best patch-dominant openings ever experienced in my miserable carreer. Well, if you are looking for the most intellectual and aristocratic of amber-patchouly dominant creations you could have surely in here your holy pillar, your supreme alluring elixir. I'm not exaggerating guys, this accord is pure heaven. This fragrance waves even "beyond" the decadent debauchery of my beloved (more vanillic-resinous) Patchouli Noir by Il Profvmo, being in any case located on a similar "nobiliar decadent/baroque field" (something ideally conjuring baroque ambiences full of draperies, chandeliers, bas-relieves, tapestries, precious cutlery, sumptuous stairs, purple rooms, occult lasciviousness and mistery, overall inside high medieval palaces surroundend by great courts framed by torches in the winter night). Literature, ceremonies at Royal Court, libertinism and baroquism aromatically transude from this veritable gorgeous piece of natural perfection. A perfect balance of elements, extreme quality of "ingredients" and the combination of several among the most precious elements in perfumery elevate this juice at top levels of the olfactory scale. There is all around a sort of "Caron-like" powdery-earthy mintiness a la Bellodgia by soon since the opening (conjuring me in particular Il Profvmo's patchouli but also several others resinous scents as Nobile 1942 Patchouli to quote one). There is anyway in here an almost dominant amber-iris centered inebriating dry (vaguely musky) powder which is aromatic, sharp, poudre/talky, soapy-rosey, victorian in style, vaguely barber-shop and waxy (with faint earthy-herbal accents). The spititual opoponax's quality (probably supported by molecular secret hints of further smoky resins and may be frankincense) is here, kind of alluring, substantial and mystic but it does not manage to hamper the general dry-talky main substance of the aroma (a la MPeG Ambre Precieux, House of Matriarch Ambre Vie or even more "elevated" niche ambers hidden somewhere in the recesses of worldwide artisanal perfumery). There is all around an "organic/warm skin odour conjuring" quality and most of all an arcane "antique soaps-waxy candels shop like" aroma of wax, honeyed resins, bath soaps, lotions, bath-salts, frankincense, ointments and balsams. Perfection. Smoky myrrh elicits a sort of incensey feel or possibly hints of frankincese are included in the amalgam. Subtle specific facets of scents a la Creed Angelique Encense, Grossmith Phul-Nana, Guerlain Bois d'Armenie, E.Coudray Amber et Vanille, Heliotrope Etro or Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche jump helter skelter and chaotically on mind along the way. Gradually patchouli fades and an immacolate talky-soapy sensorial universe encompasses all the whispers, feelings, senses and dreams of our leaves. Dry down (less dry and more vanillic) is a perfect romantic-victorian melange of patch, resins, ethereal iris florentina and hints of almondy-eliotropic vanilla (in this stage the juice is extremely close to Kiori by Kiori). A new passion of mine.
    Last edited by Darvant; 15th June 2016 at 11:18 PM.
    Currently wearing: Eight & Bob by Eight & Bob

  5. #5

    Default Re: Dr. Vranjes: Information and Opinions?

    Rosa Cassis
    Hyper aristocratic orangy jasmine for us. Dr. Vranjes Rosa Cassis unfolds one of the most realistic and indolic floral opening ever tested on skin, something yet experienced (with such a level of powerful impact) just by testing several Bruno Fazzolari's temperamental florals and few other scents in perfumery. The first approach is extremely graceful, ethereal, dreamy and vaguely decandent as a painting ideally reproducing a Charles Dicken's scenario (Great Expectations in particular jumps on mind with its sinister-decadent ambience). Rose and jasmine (the latter more than rose) are heady along this stage, like a nectar powerfully honeyed and kind of syrupy in a neo Victorian way. There is neroli in the air (an evident orangy classic presence) and a general cologney languid-graceful-poetic background more than vaguely conjuring me scents a la Askett&English Absolute (really close each other Absolute and Rosa Cassis especially going on along development and coming here up "on surface" soothing elements, blackcurrant and may be ylang-ylang). Cassis starts by soon "co-working" with florals in order to darken the amalgam by providing a "fleshy" fruity blackcurrant-veined substance (balancing the initial leafy-hesperidic crispiness and complementing the "nectarous" floral intensity). Dry down is even more subtle and refined, the olfactory "transfiguration" of a Doris Lessing's colonial ambience (refined, affected, lofty, intellectual and dramatic). An excellent take on this nobiliar floral theme by a veritable artisanal little italian "alchemic-apothecary workshop".
    Currently wearing: Eight & Bob by Eight & Bob

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