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  1. #1

    Default Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    I am wondering if there's any good sandalwood-centred fragrances that do not employ ISO E Super (a note I cannot stand)? This dreadful chemical makes a number of scents (Tam Dao, Hinoki, Passage d'Enfer, Encre Noir and many others) unwearable for me. It didn't bother me my nose became attuned to it and now that it is, this note immediately ruins the scent for me.

    I kinda like Dyptique's take on sandalwood and if it didn't have ISO E it'd be bottle-worthy for me so my question is - are there any sandalwood dominated scents that do not use ISO E? I've tried a number of others like Etro Sandaloo, Viloresi's Sandalo, Chanel Bois des Illes, etc. but they are all have additional elements that I do not want. Is there anything else which is very linear, straight sandalwood with good sillage and longevity?

    I have some pure sandalwood essential oils and while they indeed smell the best, they have very limited projection. Would mixing the oil with some alcohol (a-la Profumo's sandalwood scent) produce stronger sillage? The concept sounds counterintuitive since undiluted sandalwood oil should be "stronger" but perphaps evaporation of alcohol somehow encances the oils projection?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    As an avowed fan of Sandalwood I empathise

    I think you are caught in the perfumer's dilemma . . . profumo's Mysore + Alcohol blend is beautiful but does not perform like a perfume per se - the whole sillage / longevity thing.

    Santal Noble and Villoresi (and Etro) Sandalo and others you mention 'perform' but are buttressed up with other ingradients and we'll never know how much, if any, Mysore is in there. I believe most use the Australian variety these days.

    What to do then? I am just happy to use any of the above for my sandalwood fix depending on mood etc. and grateful I have a small amount of pure Mysore oil and a bit of the old C&E Mysore EDT to remind me of the good old days.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 21st November 2009 at 03:43 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    I was going to suggest Villoresi's Sandalo, which you mentioned. It's very dry and although it does have other notes, on my skin almost only the sandalwood comes out.
    RM

  4. #4

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Have you tried 10 Corso Como? It's too hot today for me to test it for Iso E Super, but I remember the sandalwood/oud drydown was very smooth, with none of the stickiness I associate with Iso E.

    Did you try the EDT or the parfum of Bois des iles? Parfum has a nicer, more distinctly sandalwood drydown.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    I searched for a long time for a great sandalwood. To be honest, I never found one until I gave up and bought some aged Mysore sandalwood oil. It was an x-mas present to myself last year and it saved me a lot of money in the long run. They had got some great stuff for sale at capricornslair.com, but the site seems to be down at the moment.

    If you buy sandalwood oil, just make sure it's Santalum album, not the awful Australian crap they try and pass off as sandalwood. It can be a bit pricey, but it's unlike any perfume out there.
    Oh please, if everyone around here is going to start telling the truth, I'm going to bed. - The House of Yes

  6. #6

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    I can't imaging that Floris Sandalwood has any Iso E Super in it. Very, very minimalist, and none of the cedary fizz that comes with the Iso E.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  7. #7

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  8. #8

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    You might want to give Profumum Santalum a try, Igor. Again, it's not a pure sandalwood scent but the sandalwood shines through esp. in the drydown. It doesn't project that much and is rather pricey but at least you won't find any Iso..whatever.. in it.




    Quote Originally Posted by bront82 View Post
    ..
    If you buy sandalwood oil, just make sure it's Santalum album, not the awful Australian crap they try and pass off as sandalwood..
    I have smelled both Mysore as well as Australian sandalwood. While I prefer s. album (and not because it's rare and expensive), I wouldn't call the australian variety crap at all.
    Last edited by phibess; 21st November 2009 at 07:32 AM.

  9. #9
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Casswell-Massey have a really nice Sandalwood ,
    ...... anyone know if its Iso loaded ?

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  10. #10

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I should have probably been more clear - I am looking for a stright "no frills" linear sandalwood scent with good sillage and reasonable longevity, if such a thing even exists outside of the realm of pure essential oils. I don't want any lavender, bergamot, cedar, roses or anything else, but above all else no ISO E SUPER I've probably read most of the sandalwood discussions on basenotes going back a few years and I suspect that what I want does not exist (save for Profumo's Santalum, which I am reluctant to get since I may as well use my own oils to prepare an alcohol tincture, but then I most likely won't get the sillage I want). Should I just give up on my quest and stick to EO's?

  11. #11

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Simple sandalwoods are tricky to find these days. I'd stick with essential oils.

  12. #12

    Post Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Santal Noble?..MPG (Either formulation)
    Don't panic. Just stay calm, and reload....

  13. #13

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    If you liked Bois des Iles, have you tried Egoiste?
    Evenstar

  14. #14

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    @ Ron199: I have a embarrasing gap in my scent education as far any MPG frags are concerned, I haven't tried any of them yet... How is Santal Noble? From the reviews it appears to have herbal/spicy elements, amber as well as coffee (original formulation) and figs in the newer version. In all the "sandalwood" frags that I've tried so far which had other elements, said additional notes seem to drown sandalwood and reduce it to the role of an Atlas, quietly holding the entire composition but never given its righful place at the forefront. Tam Dao is a bit of an exception, despite its prominent cedar and cypress, it's more focused on sandalwood than anything else I've tried. I suppose it's worth tracking down a sample of Santal Noble since it gets mentioned in sandalwood recommendation threads quite often.

    @ arwen_elf: I can't say I disliked Bois des Iles, but the initial explosion of aldehydes (why do Chanels noses like them so much?) just about ruins it for me. Which Egoiste should I try, the EDT or the Cologne Concentree?

  15. #15

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Art of Shaving Sandalwood?

    My bottle, bought about a year ago, has an ingredients list of "alcohol, essential oils, water". I don't know if that means a lack of synthetic sandalwood, or if synthetic sandalwood gets lumped in with essential oils?

    I also don't know enough about sandalwood to speak to its quality, dryness, or anything else. To my inexperienced nose, it smells of sandalwood and more sandalwood. (Edited to add: And, yep, I'd call it linear.) (Edited again to add: And, yep, I like it, a lot, in case that wasn't clear.)

    (A side note that a bottle from "Art of Shaving" looks really weird next to the Cristalle and Vent Vert. I usually buy men's fragrances without a qualm, but I wish it didn't have to be so aggressive about it. )
    Last edited by ChickenFreak; 21st November 2009 at 06:41 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dimitrios View Post
    Casswell-Massey have a really nice Sandalwood ,
    ...... anyone know if its Iso loaded ?
    I wore this one as my SOTD yesterday and enjoyed it immensely...such a lovely smell for a cheap price!

    Have no idea what's in it, though.....

  17. #17

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Quote Originally Posted by Igor01 View Post
    @ Ron199: I have a embarrasing gap in my scent education as far any MPG frags are concerned, I haven't tried any of them yet... How is Santal Noble? From the reviews it appears to have herbal/spicy elements, amber as well as coffee (original formulation) and figs in the newer version. In all the "sandalwood" frags that I've tried so far which had other elements, said additional notes seem to drown sandalwood and reduce it to the role of an Atlas, quietly holding the entire composition but never given its righful place at the forefront. Tam Dao is a bit of an exception, despite its prominent cedar and cypress, it's more focused on sandalwood than anything else I've tried. I suppose it's worth tracking down a sample of Santal Noble since it gets mentioned in sandalwood recommendation threads quite often.

    @ arwen_elf: I can't say I disliked Bois des Iles, but the initial explosion of aldehydes (why do Chanels noses like them so much?) just about ruins it for me. Which Egoiste should I try, the EDT or the Cologne Concentree?

    Have you tried LesNez Let Me Play the Lion? There's a fair bit of cedar in the mix but it's got a huge dose of sandalwood and some incense too, and is nearly as straight up woody as Tam Dao, although far smoother and more enjoyable to my nose.
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  18. #18
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Quote Originally Posted by Butthead53 View Post
    I wore this one as my SOTD yesterday and enjoyed it immensely...such a lovely smell for a cheap price!

    Have no idea what's in it, though.....
    its irrelevant really .... its just so nice it doesn't really matter !

    I only have a large vial & I'll be reaching for it as soon as i finish typing
    .

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  19. #19

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    [QUOTE=Igor01;1677911
    @ arwen_elf: I can't say I disliked Bois des Iles, but the initial explosion of aldehydes (why do Chanels noses like them so much?) just about ruins it for me. Which Egoiste should I try, the EDT or the Cologne Concentree?[/QUOTE]

    Mmm, I don't remember the Concentree, I used to have a sample, but gave it away over a year ago. I like the EDT very much. Would you like a sample? PM me your info and it will be yours!
    Evenstar

  20. #20

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Does anyone have an opinion on L'Artisan Parfumeur Santal? I have not seen much discussion of this here.

    And would anyone say that the Caswell Massey Sandalwood is overly masculine or could a woman carry it off?

  21. #21

    Default Re: Any good, dry sandalwood without ISO E Super?

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Have you tried LesNez Let Me Play the Lion? There's a fair bit of cedar in the mix but it's got a huge dose of sandalwood and some incense too, and is nearly as straight up woody as Tam Dao, although far smoother and more enjoyable to my nose.
    Dang, I just ordered a dozen samples from Lucky Scent yesterday and totally forgot about LMPtL which I wanted to try for a long time. I'll see if I can add it to my order before it ships.

    Quote Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post
    Mmm, I don't remember the Concentree, I used to have a sample, but gave it away over a year ago. I like the EDT very much. Would you like a sample? PM me your info and it will be yours!
    Very kind of you, please check your PM

    It appears that there are a lot of sandalwood-themed frags that work well for different people, but only a handful that have a focus on sandalwood itself and even those invariably tend to offer their own interpretation of the sandalwood smell, ranging from dry, dark and austere like Tam Dao to creamy and "white" like Bois de Santal et al. Sadly it would seem that if I want to have the straight-up sandalwood smell without any other notes I may have to stick with using pure essential oils and accept the limited sillage as a trade-off. Nevertheless, I will try to sample as may of the frags mentioned here and other sandalwood threads, who knows - maybe I'll find something that pushes all the right buttons for me?

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