'...Vivara was built by the perfumers Marie-Aude Couture and Nathalie Gracia-Cetto, and in it they have fused Pucci, icon of the past, with Pucci, the current house. Vivara is retro, but in the most subtle way. When I smell it now, I think of the midcentury Diors — Diorama, Diorella — not so much what they smelled of but how they smelled: great midcentury abstracts. Vivara is an abstract, too....'

'...Perhaps Guerlain makes the Aquas precisely to step out of character. Very few people have ever told me they wear Aqua Allegoria’s scents. This is a shame, because these are some of the simplest and most delightful things on the market — juices whose unpretentiousness and lack of adornment are equal to their unadorned loveliness. Sylvaine Delacourte, the collection’s creative director, has demanded that the scents exhibit at once a marked translucence and, seemingly contradictorily, a crisply delineated character....'

Read the full reviews of both on the NYT The Moment blog here.