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  1. #1

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    Default NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose


    Space reserved for index, statistics, etc.


    years: 2003 - 2010

    Last edited by narcus; 26th February 2010 at 02:04 PM.

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose


    After a long pause, the first issue of 2010 includes brief reviews of perfumes selected from the domain of niche perfumery.



    English text : Notes from the Nose : Tiaré

    Original publication : Duftnote -- Lob des Nischenparfums



    I hope you will enjoy that...

    Happy New Year !
    Narcus
    __________________________________________________ ____________
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali. - The world of perfumes is a universe without limits: a scent can evoke feelings, places, people or even lead into a space of new emotional dimensions. Lorenzo Villoresi
    Last edited by narcus; 27th February 2010 at 09:52 AM.

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose


    February 1, 2010





    Aldehydes are everywhere since Chanel No. 5, but don’t amines smell fishy? Yes, all except one do, and there’s the first little mystery: methyl anthranilate. Draw the structure on a napkin, ask a rookie chemist to guess its smell, and she will probably say, “Harsh, fishy, aniline like.” Open a bottle and surprise her: American grape. Methyl anthranilate, an essential component of white floral compositions, is what made Narcisse Noir and l’Heure Bleue so wonderful. Anthranilate comes with a warning: mix it with aldehydes and after a day or two your perfume will go dark, your soap bar completely black, because the quantum mechanics of the -C=N- group are such that it absorbs light...
    Last edited by narcus; 26th February 2010 at 02:06 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium

    February 27, 2010:


    Notes from the nose -- Opium (printed Monday, Mar 1 2010)



    © Patrick Rohner, Zürich

    O P I U M
    "Opium is 30 years old ! I make it 33, since it came out in 1977, but lying about your age is ok."...

    By Luca Turin
    copyright NZZ
    [article in German
    : Noch besser als Sex]

    The name, for a start, outrageous enough to get publicity, but not so much that you lose customers. The slogan was “Pour les femmes qui s’adonnent (give themselves over) à Yves Saint Laurent”. The women in the ads, though fully dressed, looked as if the great gay genius had figured out something better than sex. There were protestations all over the world, and the fragrance was banned in China and the Gulf States. The Chinese couldn’t afford it anyway, and Gulf customers simply went to Paris to buy it. Saint Laurent upped the ante in 2000 with a naked Sophie Dahl making love to Invisible Man, but the original was funnier and more apt.... (the whole story)


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston.
    Last edited by narcus; 11th March 2010 at 09:06 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  5. #5

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks for the preview and the link. I didn't realize that Josephine Catapano had collaborated with Bernard Chant on various fragrances. Interesting the tidbits one picks up from LT.

    Years ago I read that Estee Lauder was most unhappy when Opium was released. She said it was Youth Dew with a tassle. Well, it's much more than that, but it's probably true that YD paved the way for Opium.

  6. #6

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks for keeping the series going, narcus.

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    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    My pleasure, VintageVogue, mr. reasonable, and all thinkalikes !

    I assume the ban on this wonderful fragrance has long been lifted in China and the Gulf states. - (?)
    Last edited by narcus; 1st March 2010 at 04:16 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Many thanks narcus for keeping us 'posted' with the latest from LT. Great read!
    Last edited by kbe; 28th February 2010 at 12:25 PM.
    we have seen the enemy...and he is us.-Pogo

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium



    Article by Luca Turin
    , copyright NZZ
    from NZZ Folio 04/2010 - Thema: Theater
    link :http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-36bc-48ea-b615-1c30cd0b472d/showarticle/6fcfbad9-298f-4873-bbe1-079b69891bea.aspx





    By Luca Turin


    When I was a young lad I used to admire older people with great experience, not so much because what they told me seemed useful or interesting, which it seldom did, but because I wondered what it must be like to be so used to things. And not just frightening, unexpected or merely difficult things: beauty, of all things, was to me the hardest one to get used to. It seemed to me that grown-ups could bravely face up to and judge the beauty of things very quickly and get it right whereas I struggled for weeks.

    For example, my parents listened to classical music all the time at home. When they played a new record and declared it wonderful, I felt as if I had been set a fresh, hard problem to solve. All the paintings, books and pieces of music that eventually made me a better person initially felt like bacalhau, nutritious but stiff as a plank. Chewing on Beethoven’s string trios took me years, and I am still soaking his late quartets in running water. Perfume was just as hard, of course, but not part of high culture and therefore never talked about.


    I remember my mother’s Diorama floating like an enigma in the air, its contradictory austere and lush facets demanding to be reconciled by an explanation that never came. But what would the explanation feel like ? There is a painting by Magritte, entitled Explanation, depicting a wine bottle, a carrot, and a wine bottle in the process of turning into a carrot. The half-bottle, half-carrot is properly the work of art, as in artificial (note to translator: Robin, is there a wordplay on Kunst and künstlich that would work ?).


    Maybe Diorama’s beauty lies only in the fact that you eventually, reluctantly, accept it as a whole. Conversely if it were not beautiful, carrot and bottle would never coalesce, no new form would have been created and you would have learnt nothing. I still think strangeness, novelty, and arduousness that softens into self-evidence with time are the attributes of the kind of beauty I was trying to understand as a child.


    There are other kinds: the sublime in which we play no part, for example, the beauty of mountain peaks at sunset or of the smell of roses; and the cute, the beauty of puppies, kittens and cheerleaders. Perfumery lives under constant threat from sublimity and cuteness: wonderful raw materials tempt one to minimalism, hence the endless proliferation of identical vetivers, incense etc. Cuteness, on the other hand, is a sort of artistic dwarfism, the creative equivalent of cooking entirely with “baby” vegetables.


    Lately perfumery cuteness has come either in a bleached-blonde style (fruity florals) or in a dark-haired version with a hint of dark fuzz on the upper lip (Coco Mademoiselle and its descent). Where is Athena with one blue eye and one brown? Where is cross-eyed Aphrodite? I, and all perfume lovers, need to get used to something new.


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston.

    (end of quote from NZZ Folio)
    Last edited by narcus; 9th April 2010 at 07:11 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Makes me want to smell Diorama again.
    Currently wearing: Bang by Marc Jacobs

  11. #11

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you, narcus. This is good, solid perfume reading.
    "...put on clothes that are well-scented with incense. Even if you’re somewhere where no one special will see you, you still feel a heady sense of pleasure inside." Things that make your heart beat fast (translated by Meredith McKinney), Sei Shonagon. The Pillow Book.

    "The sunset is deeper and longer. The scent of the jasmine is stronger." Miracles. Pet Shop Boys

  12. #12

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    I am glad you agree, Primrose! That's why I keep quoting NZZ Folio / Turin.
    The May issue is due in today, let's see what the mail brings...
    Last edited by narcus; 3rd May 2010 at 06:06 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Folio 05/2010 : " Thema: Handy /Duftnote " - copyright NZZ



    By Luca Turin



    Two weeks ago I received a phone call from a concert pianist and piano teacher in New York who had gradually lost his sense of smell over a period of years, to the point where only three things still smelled faintly: coffee, chocolate and shit. He had seen an ENT specialist, who apparently looked up his nose and told him that his “olfactory bulb” was looking fine, a remarkable feat considering the bulb is inside the brain. The specialist prescribed a mineral supplement, the medical equivalent of airline sweets.

    Several things this distinguished musician told me were typical of most people in his unfortunate position. First, losing your sense of smell elicits no sympathy whatsoever. Second, those who lose it often feel a terrible loss because what we call taste is mostly smell, so all the pleasures of food are denied to anosmics. All you’re left with is salty, sour, bitter, sweet and umami, not much to go on. Third, the effect on mood is terrible, perhaps unexpectedly so. Another anosmia victim was the journalist Mick O’Hare, who edits the New Scientist magazine. He is as buoyant, positive a man as you’re likely to meet. Yet when he lost his sense of smell after a bad cold he considered suicide.

    His story is exemplary in another respect, because he was cured. After searching high and low, he found a doctor in Washington DC called Robert Henkin who treated him with a drug called theophylline, formerly an asthma medication. It is not clear why this works, and theophylline is not without risks. However, it worked for Mick O’Hare: after over a year his sense of smell started to came back, as luck would have it, while he was on the toilet. He described this to me as “the best smell ever”.

    There are basically four reasons why your sense of smell might not work. The most common is simply a mechanical obstacle preventing the air from reaching the inconspicuous patch of mucosa where the receptor cells dangle in the breeze. That can be figured out by looking up your nose. The second, and most common is post-viral anosmia. An unusually hardy rhinovirus gives you a common cold and takes the opportunity to wipe out the olfactory neurons. These normally grow back —no other part of the nervous system does that so well— but sometimes they don’t. The third reason is something wrong inside your brain, either due to a blow to the head, a tumor or a degenerative disease. Smell loss is an early indicator of several nasty illnesses from Alzheimer’s to Parkinson’s. Finally, there is a collection of other causes such as zinc deficiency, cadmium poisoning etc.

    The most important thing if you suffer smell loss is not to suffer it in silence, and to find a doctor who takes it seriously. Make sure it is not a blockage, then see a neurologist. You only have five senses, and none to spare.


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston.

    copyright: Neue Zürcher Zeitung, Zürich Switzerland
    Last edited by narcus; 3rd May 2010 at 06:32 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post


    Lately perfumery cuteness has come either in a bleached-blonde style (fruity florals) or in a dark-haired version with a hint of dark fuzz on the upper lip (Coco Mademoiselle and its descent). Where is Athena with one blue eye and one brown? Where is cross-eyed Aphrodite? I, and all perfume lovers, need to get used to something new.
    https://cologniac.com - raging for the machines

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    It appears that not only a zinc difficency can cause loss of sense of smell but also (the zinc gluconate in) Zicam cold rememdy nasal spray may do so also:

    http://coldflu.about.com/od/medicati...zicamsmell.htm
    Last edited by kbe; 3rd May 2010 at 11:51 PM.
    we have seen the enemy...and he is us.-Pogo

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Hmmm... had Turin taught my high school chemistry class I might have actually learned something (and no fallen asleep)
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  17. #17

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / YSL Opium

    Thanks very much indeed for all these links. I wonder what Mr Turin makes of the newly-reformulated Opium. I think it's unspeakably sad that the heady dame we know and love appears to be gone forever.
    ---

    I am a Jasmine Award winning fragrance critic, amateur perfumer, Basenotes contributor and regular columnist for Esprit Magazine. My perfume guide, Le Snob: Perfume, is published by Hardie Grant. Click on its title for more info.

    For giveaways, reviews of new perfume releases and thoughts on all sorts of scent-related matters, please visit Persolaise.com or find me on Twitter or Facebook.

    Many thanks.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    My uncle fell in his house, and hit his head so hard on the floor he suffers (even 2 years later) from full anosmia.

    I admit, this is one of my all-time fears. It would be extremely hard to live without my sense of smell.
    Currently wearing: Bang by Marc Jacobs

  19. #19

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    Angry Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose




    © Fabienne Boldt






    By Luca Turin

    article in german | order issue | write a letter (to the editors)

    The following is an excerpt from the 2010 / June issue of the monthly magazine from which the following has been copied (clicking on the title will link you to the original web publication).


    "I was recently in Milan and set off on an aimless walk west of the Duomo, past Peck, the landmark delicatessen with a prodigious wine basement — 4-litre jeroboams of Sauternes for the price of a car — through quiet streets named after the clangorous trades of swordsmiths, armourers and spurriers, and eventually past a small perfumery belonging to the Farmacia next door at Via Spadari 13. I still cannot resist the sight of unknown perfume bottles, so I doubled back and stepped in.

    The place is run by an elegant, courtly woman in her fifties who gives her name only as Jelly, no surname. What caught my eye was an array of ten cubical bottles, which turned out to be a line of fragrances designed by one of her long-time customers, Scipione Zanella, a Venetian businessman and fragrance aficionado. Two years ago, having decided that the state of perfumery was unsatisfactory, he walked in to see Ms Jelly one day, declared his intent to create perfumes and asked her what she thought his first creation should smell of. She suggested a linden blossom on the grounds that the only known fragrance of that type, d’Orsay’s Tilleul, could do with some company. To her surprise he appeared a few weeks later with a linden, poetically named F-051 . Over the next year or so his firm, Onediffusion, came up with nine more, all numbered like industrial prototypes. I started smelling them on strips and was very impressed, all the more so because Mr Zanella is said to be the perfumer: these are confident, big-boned, mature, durable fragrances in the classical mold, made with a judicious mixture of naturals and synthetics, sold at perfume concentration and handsomely packaged. My favorite is F-055, a cross between Lauder’s Beautiful and Piguet’s Fracas, a buttery tuberose against a fluorescent woody-rosy background.


    By coincidence, on my return to the US I found a package containing the works of another independent Italian perfumer, Maria Candida Gentile. These mercifully have names rather than numbers and are rich, warm, versicolored, joyful compositions that make you smile with pleasure. Ms Gentile seems to proceed by successive approximations from one fragrance to another and her creations have a strong family resemblance. Unlike many firms, she does not try to do the canonical set to please every type of customer. Those who appreciate the Histoires de Parfums range should try her fragrances.


    The fact that these two firms are Italian is a break with tradition. Italian perfumery so far has largely stuck to four genres: derivative, comfortable spicy-floral fragrances from Krizia’s Teatro alla Scala onwards, overpackaged, expensive cod-apothecary products like Villoresi and SMN, insane hippy foghorn confections like Nasomatto and a host of bloodless eco-friendly claptrap with handwritten labels. Onediffusion and MCG are neither provincial nor touristy, do not frighten horses or save the planet: they are proper fragrances, the way the French used to do them when they still cared."



    __________________________________________________ _________________________________________

    For anyone understanding German or French, or for fans of Luca Turin:
    NZZ still offer their excellent DVD 'PARFUM' containing a documentary on Perfume (20th century and today, 110 minutes). It includes beautiful details on Grasse, (Fragonard, Chanel), a client session with Lorenzo Villoresi, and many other interesting details. The additional bonuses are interviews with the following experts

    - Luca Turin
    ,
    scientist, researcher and perfume critic, 8 minutes, in English
    - Roman Kaiser
    ,
    fragrance scientist and researcher, in German, 26 min.
    - Jean Guichard
    ,
    professional perfumer and director of the Givaudan school for perfumers, native Grassois, in French, 31 min.
    Last edited by narcus; 5th July 2010 at 07:04 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  20. #20

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks. I see he still nurses his irrational dislike of Villoresi. Considering the quality of the ingredients compared to most other scents in the market, calling LV overpriced is quite ridiculous, however one may think of the perfumes otherwise.
    Currently wearing: Mellis by Annette Neuffer

  21. #21

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    An interesting read. Thanks for sharing it.
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  22. #22

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks Narcus - always nice to see this pop up.

    I am sure this is the same little place I chanced on in 2002, sadly before I had a clue about basenotes or much else. On explaining to the lady in the small shop (who answers the description) that I only wore GIT & AdP Colonia but would love to try something new she suggested Tabarome Millesime, for which I am profoundly grateful - it more or less led me here. I was thinking about this shop just a few days ago and wondering what treasures it might hold.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    This article seemed like an excuse to re-air Turin's general unhappiness with Italian perfumery--which is fine, especially when it is informative and entertaining, as ever.

    Must keep these two perfumers in mind next time I go to Italy. Or maybe when I am ordering samples.

  24. #24

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    ...are neither provincial nor touristy, do not frighten horses or save the planet: they are proper fragrances, the way the French used to do them when they still cared.
    Lol! I love his humor, born of passion. Turin can be so charmingly evil...

    Thanks for posting these!
    Anakin: What was that all about?
    Obi-Wan: Well, R2 has been...
    Anakin: No loose wire jokes.
    Obi-Wan: Did I say anything?
    Anakin: He's trying.
    Obi-Wan: I didn't say anything!

    -ROTS


  25. #25

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks so much for posting this, Narcus. Great article. I had not yet drifted over to NZZ this month to see what Dr Turin was up to. Glad to have the reminder here.

  26. #26

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    a bit off t.
    Do you guys know weather theres a scanned book of Sir Turin wandering the internetz?
    chown -R us ./base

  27. #27

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by Leukothea View Post
    a bit off t.
    Do you guys know weather theres a scanned book of Sir Turin wandering the internetz?
    Probably not the best place to ask this this question, Leukothea.

    But, possibly the worst

    Why not consider BUYING the book and supporting the efforts of the writers, one of whom is a member of Basenotes?

  28. #28

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    I think I could fall in love with Dr. Turin: brains, wit, charm and an expert tongue, all in one greatly-scented package!

  29. #29

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Probably not the best place to ask this this question, Leukothea.
    But, possibly the worst

    Why not consider BUYING the book and supporting the efforts of the writers, one of whom is a member of Basenotes?
    Actually, both still are, Mr. Reasonable.

    Much to our regret, Mrs. Turin, generally known by her name as an author, Tania Sanchez, only took part in the Basenotes discussions for a brief period in the summer of 2008. Some of us saw her on TV interviews later that year, and maybe also in 2009, together with her husband. The latest I read was that her interests as a creative writer were going into a different direction. I shall try and link you to one of the discussions she participated in (BN Men's Forum) later today.

    edit as promised: Tania Sanchez' Basenotes user name is NYCtbone. She has only posted a few times in April 2008. This may have been the first instance when she joined a discussion:
    Last edited by narcus; 20th June 2010 at 12:20 PM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Probably not the best place to ask this this question, Leukothea.

    But, possibly the worst

    Why not consider BUYING the book and supporting the efforts of the writers, one of whom is a member of Basenotes?
    well if they offer a students discount i might just consider buying it. Otherwise.. no, not really, i wont
    chown -R us ./base

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