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  1. #31

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thanks for that, Narcus - that one was before my time.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great article. I also discovered M.Candida Gentile a month ago in Venice... and I'm still enthousiastic... - I also agree with LT as far as his criticism of Villoresi is concerned.
    By the way, I think Turin's book /The Guide is a must-read for every fragrance-lover - also a great source of reference when it's handy on your book-shelf. Getting a REAL copy of the book is no mistake!

  3. #33

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    Thumbs up Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    unabridged from today's issue of NZZ Folio:





    © Fabienne Boldt






    By Luca Turin

    article in german | larger print | smaller print | print ¦ email | order issue | write a letter


    " This, friends, will be my last Duftnote. Actors want to direct, artists want to run the Ministry of Culture, dancers want to be choreographers, and I want to write about something other than smell. But before I go, I give you the Duftnote of 2030:

    IFRA is over. Now that we can stimulate olfactory cells directly with light, there’s no need for chemicals. At least, there hasn't been since 2013, when a group at the Media Lab (Massachusetts Institute of Technology, my current place of work) successfully replicated a convincing smell of bacon by shining light pulses at three different wavelengths.

    Three years later the technology was sufficiently advanced that perfumers were fooled about whether they were smelling rose oil or light. MIT Chemistry students were among the first to use the technology to identify and remember molecules by associating them with tunes. My son at age 10 smelled wintergreen in a cough drop and said, “Smoke and mint.” When he and his musically-minded sister arrived at MIT, they soon figured out the smoke and mint chords and learned to play them at different speeds—it turns out arpeggiato is best—until they got wintergreen.

    In 2019 at age 20 my son finished a degree in Optogenetic Engineering, while his sister’s third-year assignment at Juilliard was a 3-minute smell piece in which she starts out with a huge cluster chord that smells like wet dog and and one by one removes all the bad notes, ending with Jicky played pianissimo.

    To smell a perfume these days, all you do is spray a solution containing about 200 different harmless viruses up your nose. Each virus infects a different type of olfactory receptor and instructs it to make a particular protein, which pumps electric charge across the membrane when exposed to light of a particular color. After about 18 to 24 hours, the proteins are in place.

    You insert a small fiber optic into your nostril. It is connected to a small machine containing a dozen tunable lasers, which in turn is connected to your laptop and can read a variety of formats like .olf, .noz and .mp7. (Not familiar with them? You haven’t been paying attention.)

    I bought one of the early prototype machines and spent several months just going up and down the scale of molecular vibrations and endlessly playing Vince Guaraldi’s “Cast Your Fate to the Wind” (the second chord smells of lavender soap) on an iPad MIDI keyboard. That was a while ago. Now of course ITunes has a smellable books section, and you can visit the Osmothèque remotely.

    But the best things are completely new: the strange, stately harmonies of smell are now explored by a generation of “nazers,” a movement started in Paris around 2020 that soon took over the world. You are all familiar with their work, no need to go into it. I knew they were onto something when I smelled a piece by Calice Becker’s granddaughter that went from bread to nail varnish to curry in the opening bar. I am smelling her second album as I write.
    "



    < end f quote. >


    Luca Turin works at the MIT; he lives in Boston
    Last edited by narcus; 5th July 2010 at 01:13 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  4. #34

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    A sad day indeed.
    I hope somebody will think about publishing the whole lot together.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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  5. #35

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    One less thing to look forward to. Come to think of it, I don't like looking forward. So it's alright, then. Thanks, as always, narcus, Duftnote and Luca Turin

  6. #36

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    If I'm still around in 2030, I hope to be one of those “nazers,” and still be nose-banging to Rock & Smell on my Scent-Pod!
    Last edited by Nymphaea; 5th July 2010 at 07:32 PM.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great stuff.

  8. #38

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you Narcus and thank you all for your appreciation over the years. All the best. Luca

  9. #39
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you Luca- I'm sad but understand . One must keep evolving. Good luck and stay in touch with Basenotes.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 5th July 2010 at 08:15 PM.
    Petty small minded people have no place in my life.
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  10. #40
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Very sad. All the best to you Luca, if you are reading this.

  11. #41
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus- thank you too !
    Petty small minded people have no place in my life.
    Currently wearing: Angel by Thierry Mugler

  12. #42

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Oh, what a pity!
    Let`s google some Dr Turin science articles from time to time.

    I think we should give a round of applauds to Dr. Turin, NZZ Folio and Narcus!
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  13. #43

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    I hastily opened NZZ Folio this morning to check for readers' comments on the surprising finale to Duftote (Notes from the Nose) last month. I also was curious to see how the gap might have been filled. Look what I found:

    << NZZ Folio 08/10 -
    .... ' Seitenblick - der kleine Unterschied ''
    by Luca Turin
    (Ob Bestsellerliste oder Parfumführer: Wir neigen zu Klassifizierungen. Aber wahre Grösse ist nicht quantifizierbar...) >>

    Article in English (excerpt):

    ..."
    Our desire to rank things by essence is demoted from religion to hobby as we grow up, but still persists in a crassly numerical form in athletic races, world cups, books of lists, and star ratings in perfume guides. An accidental ranking that grips me when I see it is found on the thermostat of clothes irons. At bottom it has nylon and delicates, trashy, clammy, degenerate creatures; then it rises through wool, silk and cotton to the highest level: linen. I imagine the Linen King to look like Jean Marais, at once noble and rustic as if woken from a thousand-year sleep and wearing a smock like James Mason in Prisoner of Zenda. And you thought it was merely temperature.

    Often we rank ourselves. When I was learning to write - with a metal nib dipped in a porcelain inkwell set into the class desk - the teacher would write a beautiful initial letter in red ink and I would fill the line with its black offspring, initially close to the model but getting worse and worse at each generation like Roman emperors after Augustus. By the middle of the line I was scrawling Caligulas and despairing of ever growing up.

    True rank is unquantifiable. Years ago a friend tried to explain to me Gilles Deleuze’s Différence et Répétition to spare me reading it. I boiled it down to a portable concept: all things were like chocolate and coffee éclairs, the same only different. Eclairs are highly evolved creatures, derived from the ancestral chou à la crème by the same anamorphosis that gave us sea cucumbers from urchins. Coffee and chocolate versions are identical in proportions, texture and method of preparation. Their flavors are very complex, both derived from roasted beans. They almost invariably live on the same shelf in the patisserie. Yet I hold it to be self-evident that the coffee éclair is more remote, more aristocratic, more refined, more bloodless than its hearty chocolate sister. Put simply, I felt even as a child that I would probably fall in love with the coffee but marry the chocolate and be happy ever after." (Read all of it here: NZZ Folio, current issue)


    The optimist I am, I now hope this essay was not just a kind act of mercy. I rather believe that Dr. Turin's good relationship with Neue Zürcher Zeitung is going to remain one of the few constants in my life. Maybe not another monthly, just a new article here and there would be something to look forward to.

    Last edited by narcus; 2nd August 2010 at 04:02 PM. Reason: typos
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #44
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Yes narcus.

    I read, on the Perfumes: The Guide website here, that Turin will continue to have a non-perfume column in NZZ Folio.

  15. #45

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great news. He's a joy to read on any subject.
    Rare, vintage, and niche off-site sales.
    Big list of niche splits.
    For me a work of fiction exists only insofar as it affords me what I shall bluntly call aesthetic bliss, that is a sense of being somehow, somewhere, connected with other states of being where art (curiosity, tenderness, kindness, ecstasy) is the norm. - Vladimir Nabokov

  16. #46

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Great reading, thanks for keeping all of us up-to-date on Turin, Narcus.

  17. #47

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you for sharing!

  18. #48
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus,

    It would be good to combine all of these back to 2003.

    And yeah, I hope he writes some more. These are the last updates I know about: http://www.perfumestheguide.com/Perf...s/Archive.html
    Last edited by pluran; 2nd September 2011 at 02:14 AM.

  19. #49

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Narcus,

    It would be good to combine all of these back to 2003.
    It certainly would. I have also been thinking about ways to do it.
    But before publishing anything, I may have to obtain permission from the Folio editors.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  20. #50

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the trouble of shuffling through NZZ webpages and b) remind me of what I have written, since I am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-) The only downside is that this may discourage a publisher from making a little book. I'm still thinking this one through, will let you know asap.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Good to hear Luca. I personally have **copied** all of them and I love reading them now and then...lot's of little tidbits of info.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  22. #52

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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the trouble of shuffling through NZZ webpages and b) remind me of what I have written, since I am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-) The only downside is that this may discourage a publisher from making a little book. I'm still thinking this one through, will let you know asap.
    Luca, a book would be so much better, of course! And in that case probably two (German and English)? The final German edition as published in their monthly journal is perfect, and I would actually have expected NZZ to also print your Duftnoten in book form.
    I myself was mainly hoping to prepare an index to all perfumes mentioned in Scent Notes. I still enjoy referring to Rien's Index (Excel table, slightly expanded) covering the data contained in both Guides released.
    Last edited by narcus; 7th September 2011 at 03:11 PM. Reason: supplemted
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  23. #53
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Thank you lots for sharing all of this.

  24. #54

    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    and b) remind me of what i have written, since i am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-)
    lol

  25. #55
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    Quote Originally Posted by luca turin View Post
    Narcus and Pluran,

    Thank you for your interest, much appreciated ! I too have been thinking about combining them in a readily accessible form and posting them. This would a) spare the reader the trouble of shuffling through NZZ webpages and b) remind me of what I have written, since I am getting to that dreaded age when one is never sure of repeating oneself :-) The only downside is that this may discourage a publisher from making a little book. I'm still thinking this one through, will let you know asap.
    Luca,

    I love the idea of a book.

  26. #56
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    Default

    Good to hear from Luca Turin !
    The book idea sounds great .
    Petty small minded people have no place in my life.
    Currently wearing: Angel by Thierry Mugler

  27. #57

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    I'd buy that book
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  28. #58
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    Default Re: NZZ Folio / Luca Turin 2010 – Duftnote / Notes from the Nose

    This is what I expect from Basenotes. Where all this threads ended? Thanks for reviving this Pluran.


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