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  1. #1

    Default What perfume would a mistress wear?

    In particular, what would a dandy's mistress wear? (A am posting this forum after a thread in the men's forum on "What is a dandy's scent?" The suggestions depended on one's definition of a dandy: prissy fop or the groomed-and-perfumed man of fashion in his impeccable suit.)

    Many of these mistresses were the sex goddesses of their day, either beauty queens or divas of the stage (actresses, opera singers and prima ballerinas.)

    Would she be the love of a man's life (esp. a man forced by his family into a marriage of convenience) or would she be the status arm candy and good-time-girl of a man of fashion, a confection in the form of a woman to strike envy into the hearts of other men?

    What would such a woman smell like? Flowery? Oriental? Vampy and animalic? I guess this also depends on our definitions of a "mistress."

    I am thinking that such perfume should have an oh-la-la allure with londonienne/parisienne appeal. Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, muguet--are some notes that come to mind.

    I thought of five scents:

    1. Fifi Chachnil (after the eponymous lingerie line)

    2. Maitresse (after the Agent Provocateur lingerie line)

    3. Courtesan by Worth (a fashion deisgner who WAS couturier to some real courtesans.)

    4. Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood

    5. Pavlova by Payot (after the 20th century ballet dancer)

    What oozes sex appeal of bygone times?

    FYI, here is a pic of the Comte d'Orsay's mistress (c. 1833-1834) Fanny Ellsler, the Austrian ballerina and diva who stole the hearts of three continents. She was known for her sexy Spanish dance, the cachucha. On her North American tour, the U.S. Congress had to be adjourned because they had no quorum (great name for a scent, BTW!) because they all turned out to the theatre to see her perform. John Van Buren, the president's son, if memory serves, escorted her to dinner. (FYI, the Comte's wife--his countess-was the mistress of the Crown Prince of France!)

    http://libweb5.princeton.edu/visual_...Prints/036.jpg
    Last edited by Primrose; 10th January 2010 at 08:36 PM.
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Rose Ambre by Fragonard

  2. #2

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Certainly it'd be 1876 (Mata Hari) from Histoires de Parfums.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Primrose- Fanny Elsller was beautiful wasn't she ?

    Well I would have to say Shalimar, Agent Provocateur, Theo Fennell.
    To be honest , a lot of the older Guerlains conjure up paramours, to me.

    Mind you, dandy's mistress may well smell like violets too . Just a thought ........

    Then Jaspar Conran actually has a perfume called Mistress - not very subtle but had to mentioned ! Bottle below - sorry - resized the image and now the name is unclear.

    **Image is back -sorry it is so large.

    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th January 2010 at 09:40 PM.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    +1 Shalimar.

  5. #5
    Dependent RHM's Avatar
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Carnal Flower & FRACAS would be excellent choices, I think. However, these are both lingering scents, like a trace of lipstick. If the mistress is to be kept a secret, then something more subtle would be required.
    We cannot live only for ourselves. A thousand fibers connect us with our fellow men. ~Herman Melville

  6. #6
    Emlynevermore's Avatar
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    I remember Turin writing that it was accepted in France that Caron made fragrances for ladies and Guerlains were for kept-women, which made me laugh when I read it because it makes *perfect* sense when you think about it.
    Last edited by Emlynevermore; 11th January 2010 at 12:42 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Another vote for Shalimar, preferably the extrait. Applied to the cleavage, of course...

    Teddius

  8. #8

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Fanny Ellsler was so beautiful!

    Hm, great suggestions. I think of something heady & a bit naughty- Bal a Versailles, or even Femme de Rochas. But RHM makes a good point- these are lingering scents...would a Mistress wear a toilet water, or a splash? Perhaps gargling with rose water
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  9. #9

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    Primrose- Fanny Elsller was beautiful wasn't she ?

    Well I would have to say Shalimar, Agent Provocateur, Theo Fennell.
    To be honest , a lot of the older Guerlains conjure up paramours, to me.

    Mind you, dandy's mistress may well smell like violets too . Just a thought ........

    Then Jaspar Conran actually has a perfume called Mistress - not very subtle but had to mentioned ! Bottle below - sorry - resized the image and now the name is unclear.

    **Image is back -sorry it is so large.

    It looks like Shalimar is ahead...and one suggestion on where it should be applied!

    Thank you all for the responses.

    nwatts, yes, Mata Hari was an original seductress who was aware of her power over men. Sad about the firing squad, however.

    Mysticknot, I love the link. It looks like *black* is the colour of the seductress:

    http://www2.victoriassecret.com/comm...ZZZ&rfnbr=5699

    The boudoir dressing table atomiser must be in vogue! I guess I was off-target with Courtesan, Boudoir, Pavlova and Fifi Chachnil--who use the colour pink. (Fanny Ellsler's signature dance was in a pink and black costume, BTW. Any woman showing her legs up past the knee on stage would turn men's heads; a beautiful woman doing this would make then stare mesmerised. She was stringing along three men at one point, one of whom was the Comte--the other two were her stage co-star and another French nobleman. The Comte was still rumoured to have fathered her daughter even though the paternity of the child was later established...as the dancer.)

    Hmmm. The original Agent Provocateur scent was in pink with black lettering. Maitresse is in the gold bottle.

    BTW, I like the Caron v. Guerlain observations. I wonder why that is so...

    Interesting that the notes suggested are vanilla and floral with Shalimar and Carnal Flower. I guess violet--that ultimate Victorian flower--is a very good suggestion!

    Does any of this call to mind a sweat-soaked ballerina--her bosom heaving from a vigourous dance routine, perspiration dripping from her face and into her costume cleavage--thundering applause from the audience as she exits the stage amid a deluge of flowers from her fans--for a tryst with her lover in her dressing room?

    Yes, Fanny was beautiful, 3xasif!

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Elssler_Cachucha.jpg
    Last edited by Primrose; 11th January 2010 at 02:11 AM.
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Rose Ambre by Fragonard

  10. #10

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Flower Bomb!!! I also will go with Shalimar!!!
    Gary

  11. #11
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by G.303 View Post
    Flower Bomb!!! ...
    Gary
    This is for the mistress who's tired of all that waitin' around stuff, and wants loverboy to get moving on the early-promised divorce. (I think this desire may be more of an American phenomenon than a French one. )

    For the discreet mistress, I would suggest choosing several of the man's fragrances. OMG. I just realized why such a high percentage of male frags are worn by women. Well BEHAVE!
    * * * *

  12. #12

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Black Orchid EdP by Tom Ford.

  13. #13

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    This is for the mistress who's tired of all that waitin' around stuff, and wants loverboy to get moving on the early-promised divorce. (I think this desire may be more of an American phenomenon than a French one. )

    For the discreet mistress, I would suggest choosing several of the man's fragrances. OMG. I just realized why such a high percentage of male frags are worn by women. Well BEHAVE!
    Redneck, I think the mistress in question would not give a hoot for marrying her lover, nor what his wife thought of her...the courtesan in the 19th century sense, then again our responses on the word "mistress" are touched with perception...such as modern athletes and the media! My perception is an independent woman in charge of her power and beauty and her ability to have men lining up just to kiss her hand! LOL!

    It seems Shalimar is far ahead now. Does anyone have the note for Bal a Versailles or Femme de Rochas?

    This from a book on dance, the 1924 Golden Age of Dancing--it seems that Fanny must have been a match for the muscular and athletic Comte: "Ellsler's natural endowment contained almost everything the gods in a generous mood can give. The perfection of proportion of hands, feet, wrists and ankles were hers, as well as a Greek perfection of figure. Though her legs were of steel, and her strength in general that of an athlete, not a line suffered in sculptural grace nor a movement in freedom. Her face had a beauty that captivated an audience at the moment of her entrance on the stage, and a range of expression covering the moods of the human mind...
    Ellsler's art consisted of a romantic glorification of life's physique...she used her hips and her smile, and men—more than women—went into rhapsodies."
    Last edited by Primrose; 11th January 2010 at 02:42 AM.
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Rose Ambre by Fragonard

  14. #14

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Femme de Rochas:
    (updated with peach added in 1989) peach, plum, sandalwood, rosewood, lemon, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, amber, civet, & leather

    Bal a Versailles:
    Top: bergamot, rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin, cassia, lemon
    Middle: jasmine, neroli, Bulgarian rose, lilac, orris, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley
    Base: sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, civet, cedar, resins

    This interesting review online quote about Bal a Versailles

    "A 60s-era perfume recalling balls at Versailles is going to be a little kitschy, though, and I couldn't help but think of the weird retro fashions rock stars wore back then. Take the Rolling Stones' dandy Brian Jones, for example, sporting neo-Edwardian ruffles, velvet jackets and a past-as-interpreted-by-the-already-rococo-60s."

    http://yesterdaysperfume.typepad.com...prez-1962.html
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  15. #15
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    BTW, I like the Caron v. Guerlain observations. I wonder why that is so...

    Interesting that the notes suggested are vanilla and floral with Shalimar and Carnal Flower. I guess violet--that ultimate Victorian flower--is a very good suggestion!

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Elssler_Cachucha.jpg
    The Guerlain for 'cocottes' and Caron for 'duchesse' quote comes for The Emperor Of Scent by Chandler Burr- an older lady by the name of Madame Clouzot remarked on the two perfume houses.
    Maybe Guerlain was/ is more risque ??

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    Black Orchid EdP by Tom Ford.
    Oh yes, I agree- I guess I like chevase -like, kept women - type fragrances ! *LOL*

    Quote Originally Posted by 3xasif View Post
    Femme de Rochas:
    (updated with peach added in 1989) peach, plum, sandalwood, rosewood, lemon, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, amber, civet, & leather

    Bal a Versailles:
    Top: bergamot, rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin, cassia, lemon
    Middle: jasmine, neroli, Bulgarian rose, lilac, orris, ylang-ylang, lily of the valley
    Base: sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, civet, cedar, resins

    This interesting review online quote about Bal a Versailles

    "A 60s-era perfume recalling balls at Versailles is going to be a little kitschy, though, and I couldn't help but think of the weird retro fashions rock stars wore back then. Take the Rolling Stones' dandy Brian Jones, for example, sporting neo-Edwardian ruffles, velvet jackets and a past-as-interpreted-by-the-already-rococo-60s."

    http://yesterdaysperfume.typepad.com...prez-1962.html
    Another two good ones !
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 11th January 2010 at 03:47 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  16. #16
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    I would say Habanita by Molinard. It just seems seductive. But if one is well versed in the arts of seduction and knows men well, one could dab maple sirop behind the ears and have a love slave for life.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  17. #17
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    I was thinking about Guerlain and Caron scents and why Guerlain is for cocottes ....
    When I think of Caron's En Avion and Tabac Blond- to me these are great sexy scents but they represent strong independent women to me, like Marlene Dietrich etc.
    Guerlain's scents are more obviously sexy with their earthy undertones ,their advertising etc.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Redneck, I think the mistress in question would not give a hoot for marrying her lover, nor what his wife thought of her...the courtesan in the 19th century sense, then again our responses on the word "mistress" are touched with perception...such as modern athletes and the media! ...
    *hysterical laughter*

    I'm sorry, but you're most correct. Mistress means different things today just between cultures (e.g., my wife's and my own) - more so between centuries. Funny, but painful.

    Thus, setting aside family diner waitresses, desperate housewives, home-wreckers, late-life soul-mates, trophies, and other modernities, I have to go with what you say...

    I am thinking that such perfume should have an oh-la-la allure with londonienne/parisienne appeal. Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, muguet--are some notes that come to mind.
    Funny, but in re-reading this, my first thought among modern things I'm familiar with (since I pay attention mostly to recent feminines) is YSL Parisienne. I'm not sure I like it, but I think if you sent that back in time, it might actually work. Paris, perhaps, as well, but YSL Parisienne has a certain ambiguity and youth to it that seems appropriate.

    Of course, you never know what happens when new tech meets old culture. Imagine, with horror, a cargo cult of Angel and Joop! spreading through dandy culture.
    * * * *

  19. #19
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    I think a mistress worth her salt would wear the finest and costliest stuff available...her lover buys her extravagant gifts; it's his pleasure to dos so.

    MDCI Enlivement Au Serail or Le Rivage des Syrtes
    Amouage Ubar
    PdN Odalisque (This stuff screams woman in charge of her sexuality!)
    Last edited by Hillaire; 11th January 2010 at 04:54 AM.

  20. #20
    Beebee's Avatar
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    See now... I would go with BNo9 Chinatown. Gritty, sexy, buttery, spicy... and sticks around a long time because it knows how to.

    :-O
    Bel Respiro, I adore you... but my heart belongs to another.

  21. #21

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    I can picture her wearing- whatever kind of mistress she might be- one of the following:

    Hypnotic Poison by Dior
    ultra-classic Je Reveins by Worth
    Guerlain's Jicky
    For royal/imperial mistress (or mistresses of some newly-rich tycoon with faux Old-School pretensions and flamboyant, yet often anti-historical, aristocratic descendant claims): Iris Nobile by ADP
    I also think that almost the entire Incense series by CDG, while marketed as unisex, is actually destined to represent the almost metaphysical image of flawless female beauty (every male's dream is made of)
    Diva by Emanuel Ungaro
    Magie Noire- maybe, a mistress with a slight passion (very popular during the Ages of Enlightenment, but also during the dandified Decadentist movement over a century later, even if this frags is just a 20th century creation, it would have most likely been a bestseller during these two previous historical periods) for the occult and also for an esoteric, karmic power-play over the men in her life
    Dior's Dolce Vita or Roma by Laura Biagiotti might work, if your mistress is a statuesque Mediterranean beauty with ancestors including some popes, some rich Florentine or Venetian Bankers, nearly half of the fashionable dwellers of Via Condotti and with good connections in "This thing of ours"
    Organza Indecence by Givenchy
    Jasmin Noir by Bulgari

  22. #22

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I think a mistress worth her salt would wear the finest and costliest stuff available...her lover buys her extravagant gifts; it's his pleasure to dos so.

    MDCI Enlivement Au Serail or Le Rivage des Syrtes
    Amouage Ubar
    PdN Odalisque (This stuff screams woman in charge of her sexuality!)
    Is it wrong that I want to try Enlevement au Serail more than ever now

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    I can picture her wearing- whatever kind of mistress she might be- one of the following:

    Diva by Emanuel Ungaro
    Ken_Russell your post was so eloquent and beautifully put. HUGE 2nd for Diva! How could I forget her? *hugs bottle*
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  23. #23

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Re: Jasper Conran Mistress - it has nothing to do with courtesan-like scent, it is a pleasant citrus scent.

  24. #24

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    *hysterical laughter*

    I'm sorry, but you're most correct. Mistress means different things today just between cultures (e.g., my wife's and my own) - more so between centuries. Funny, but painful.

    Thus, setting aside family diner waitresses, desperate housewives, home-wreckers, late-life soul-mates, trophies, and other modernities, I have to go with what you say...
    Redneck, the mistress at the start of this thread went from one lover (lovers?) to another without skipping a beat. This is not just some nameless chorus girl or backstage pick-up intended for a a singular tryst in an alcove under the stage. This woman would know her worth and desirability--and be financially independent, not living off her lover as a "kept woman." (I think of the term "lorette," or a lower-class mistress.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Ken_Russell View Post
    I can picture her wearing- whatever kind of mistress she might be- one of the following:

    Hypnotic Poison by Dior
    ultra-classic Je Reveins by Worth
    Guerlain's Jicky
    For royal/imperial mistress (or mistresses of some newly-rich tycoon with faux Old-School pretensions and flamboyant, yet often anti-historical, aristocratic descendant claims): Iris Nobile by ADP
    I also think that almost the entire Incense series by CDG, while marketed as unisex, is actually destined to represent the almost metaphysical image of flawless female beauty (every male's dream is made of)
    Diva by Emanuel Ungaro
    Magie Noire- maybe, a mistress with a slight passion (very popular during the Ages of Enlightenment, but also during the dandified Decadentist movement over a century later, even if this frags is just a 20th century creation, it would have most likely been a bestseller during these two previous historical periods) for the occult and also for an esoteric, karmic power-play over the men in her life
    Dior's Dolce Vita or Roma by Laura Biagiotti might work, if your mistress is a statuesque Mediterranean beauty with ancestors including some popes, some rich Florentine or Venetian Bankers, nearly half of the fashionable dwellers of Via Condotti and with good connections in "This thing of ours"
    Organza Indecence by Givenchy
    Jasmin Noir by Bulgari
    Ken, thank you for the great description of your reasoning! As for royal mistresses, I think I mentioned the Comtesse d'Orsay was the mistress of a prince. Parfums D'Orsay released a scent in the 1930s called "Comtesse d'Orsay," and I thought it odd because her marriage was unhappy, and she and her sexy man-about-town husband both had very public adulterous affairs. One wonders: is the "royal mistress" theme what the marketing was after, or did they just name the scent without even looking at history/biography?

    Quote Originally Posted by 3xasif View Post
    Is it wrong that I want to try Enlevement au Serail more than ever now

    Ken_Russell your post was so eloquent and beautifully put. HUGE 2nd for Diva! How could I forget her? *hugs bottle*
    3xasif, thank you for the scent notes. I am truly intrigued now! "Enlevement au Serail" just has a sexy oriental name: abduction, seduction and things of the hareem...or shades of the Mozart opera...

    And Mysticknot and Brielle, thank you for the suggestions and explanations. I would like to try Habanita some day. (I think of Carmen's "habanera" in the eponymous opera; gypsy women were considered sexy in the mid-1800s. They appear everywhere...)

    Alicka61, odd that the scent of Mistress does not match the name. I can't see something very airy and citrusy being the expected scent of a mistress.
    Last edited by Primrose; 11th January 2010 at 02:25 PM.
    "No elegance is possible without it...perfume is a part of you." Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
    Currently wearing: Rose Ambre by Fragonard

  25. #25

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Yes, it's funny but I had a bottle of Mistress and the scent really doesn't correspond to the name meaning.

  26. #26

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Quote Originally Posted by warlandsboy View Post
    +1 Shalimar.
    Shalimar the first time i smelled it, i did a complete 180. only two other perfumes have done that to me and i made the mistake of not asking what one was. the other was Angel

  27. #27

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    Fabulous thread. Shalimar, BaV, and Diva are all excellent choices, but how about a Chopard, Bvlgari, Cartier, or Tiffany scent to go with all the lavish jewels bestowed upon the secret lover. Maybe Casmir or Le Baiser du Dragon. I also think the pillowy marshmallowness of Lalique Le Parfum would be a mistress comfort/seduction scent. L'Air du Desert Marocain also springs to mind just for exotic flair and its unisex mystery.

    A dandy's mistress would wear something like Cabochard, Bandit, or even Antaeus (or borrow his Cuir de Russie or Jolie Madame).
    I offer you perfume,
    More for its pleasure than for yours;
    You perfume perfume.

    --Anonymous Ancient Greek Love Lyric

  28. #28

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    "gypsy women were considered sexy in the mid-1800s"- and not only

    Sorry for bumping this thread again and for getting off topic, but this is true and this fad may have go on, well into the 1900s, because men from all walks of life seemed to favor gypsy women- from Rasputin, who was anything but a dandy, but at least as equally womanizing, as most famous dandies and libertines from the past, who was often seen in the company of gypsy escorts, to royal dandy
    Charles II., king of Romania from 1930 to 1940, who's highly public love affairs were the subject of the tabloid press of his age and who is known to have had gypsy mistresses. Well, if history is not cyclic and quite repetitive.
    Last edited by Ken_Russell; 11th January 2010 at 04:36 PM.

  29. #29

    tang's Avatar
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    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    I'm not sure a mistress would wear anything different than any other independent woman
    who knows "her worth and desirability," or any other woman, period.
    Last edited by tang; 11th January 2010 at 05:00 PM.
    .
    Sniff and let sniff.

  30. #30

    Default Re: What perfume would a mistress wear?

    In the movie "Same Time Next Year," Ellen Burstyn wears My Sin. Tongue in cheek and pretty sexy to boot.

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