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  1. #1

    Default Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Ok I've been wanting to try this line ever since it was relaunched by Roja Dove, and finally today I have. Amazed doesn't even begin to describe my feeling towards these creations. I am also a proud owner of all three of the Grossmith creations in 50ml EDP. It is my most satisifying purchase perfume-wise in years, and that's because it shines a hopeful light towards vintage perfumery. These three fragrances smell of a different era and truly gives a feeling of true hope that perfumery is not dead. I have not gotten acquainted properly with these three because they are truly complex and mesmerizing and require proper sniffing. I'll give you an extremely brief description of each scent based on upon a very brief observation.
    Hasu-no Hana: It starts off with something very indolic that begins to fade it animalic exterior to show a spicy floral heart that eventually leads to a chypre-oriental base of tonka bean and oakmoss. Very, very complex.
    Phul-Nana: First observations show an aromatic-floral top that leads to a rich floral heart.
    Shem-el Nessim: The most "obvious" of the bunch. This is clearly an interpreation of L'heure Bleue. Although L'heure Bleue was given a second awakeing in Pierre Guillaume's brilliant gourmand take on it in Bois de Copaiba, Shem el-Nessim takes an extremely interesting take on the Guerlain classic. When you spray SeN, you get an intensely animalic honey (read urinous not too far away from MdB), that fades into the background as the heliotrope and orris play a major part in the heart. It's the heart that is the most similiar to L'Heure Bleue, but once you get to the drydown, it couldn't be anymore different. The drydown amplifies the sharp honey and tones the heliotrope waaay down. Also a very distinct civet note creeps up. Heartwrentchingly breathtaking.
    So all you vintage and Guerlain-lovin freaks, you owe yourself to try these masterpieces. And I'm terribly sorry for these short-descriptions. Because of the complexity of these fragrances, it's quite hard to "get" what they're all about unless you give them atleast a couple wearing. So I'm off to sniff and sniff again, so I can report back; and you go do the same thing. Well...what are you waiting for!!!

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    OMG!
    Sounds wonderful ,scent. Thanks for the reviews and the post. Definitely on the 'try to buy' list.
    I love complex scents and I am a 'vintage and Guerlain-lovin' freak ' too !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Thank you VERY much. So good to read. Am very happy that these scents are all I had hoped they would be -- and possibly more?! Can't wait to try.
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  4. #4

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Thanks for posting your observations, scent! I first became intrigued when I read about them on Now Smell This. They were stated as being very clearly evocative of another time. They do sound absolutely gorgeous, and I hope I have a chance to sniff them. Novis wears Hasu-no Hana, I believe. That one sounds the most appealing to me, but I'd love to try them all.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Thanks for the info, I've just sent off for a sample of each of these for my other half, so I'm sure she'll love one or more

  6. #6

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I emailed them and asked for samples. I got a matchbox-sized box with samples of all three. Wonderful perfumes, if I was a woman I would buy a bottle of each!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I've only had a chance to experience Shem-el-Nessim. One sniff and I was online buying a bottle. Anyone serious about perfume needs to have them on their must sample list. Like "scent" says, devastatingly gorgeous.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I am intrigued in that this is supposed to be a vintage fragrance house. I have had my heart broken by so-called "historical fragrance houses" reviving their scents, but I understand these scents are from real forumlae in a perfumer's book.

    I *must* try to orientals of this line!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Drool. . . I was already looking forward to trying these, but you've just made me lemm more!

    I'll have to figure out how to get samples here in the U.S.
    For sale: JL Scherrer parfum (reduced price) and more!

    "One half of the world cannot understand the pleasures of the other." ~ Jane Austen

    “Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume” ~ Jean de Boufflers

  10. #10
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I am totally intrigued by this house; now I have another reason to try these. ( I don't believe I have not yet. )
    Thanks for those really nice descriptions!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunnyfunny View Post
    Thanks for posting your observations, scent! I first became intrigued when I read about them on Now Smell This. They were stated as being very clearly evocative of another time. They do sound absolutely gorgeous, and I hope I have a chance to sniff them. Novis wears Hasu-no Hana, I believe. That one sounds the most appealing to me, but I'd love to try them all.
    Oh yes I do! It's lovely and proparbly I will buy the others too. Always when people write somehting like "as in the old days" I get interested. I think it's because I've worn so few fragrances in the past and as I don't want to chase vintage perfumes on Ebay this is my chance to be able to smell at least a hint of what perfumes once were. And I can tell you: it has been very cold weather here and not all fragrances feels suitable when wearing long johns. At least Carnation from Mona di Orio doesn't. I wore it this week although it didn't suit my underwear, but when I think of Hasu-no-Hana from the Victorian era I feel that queen Victoria who was a Grossmith customer must have worn very sensible and warm underwear during the coldest part of the year. No double glass windows and coal fires. I beleive it must have been rather cold in winter also in a royal castle. So Hasu-no-Hana and long johns? Oh yes indeed.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    Ok I've been wanting to try this line ever since it was relaunched by Roja Dove, and finally today I have. Amazed doesn't even begin to describe my feeling towards these creations. I am also a proud owner of all three of the Grossmith creations in 50ml EDP. It is my most satisifying purchase perfume-wise in years, and that's because it shines a hopeful light towards vintage perfumery. These three fragrances smell of a different era and truly gives a feeling of true hope that perfumery is not dead. I have not gotten acquainted properly with these three because they are truly complex and mesmerizing and require proper sniffing. I'll give you an extremely brief description of each scent based on upon a very brief observation.
    Hasu-no Hana: It starts off with something very indolic that begins to fade it animalic exterior to show a spicy floral heart that eventually leads to a chypre-oriental base of tonka bean and oakmoss. Very, very complex.
    Phul-Nana: First observations show an aromatic-floral top that leads to a rich floral heart.
    Shem-el Nessim: The most "obvious" of the bunch. This is clearly an interpreation of L'heure Bleue. Although L'heure Bleue was given a second awakeing in Pierre Guillaume's brilliant gourmand take on it in Bois de Copaiba, Shem el-Nessim takes an extremely interesting take on the Guerlain classic. When you spray SeN, you get an intensely animalic honey (read urinous not too far away from MdB), that fades into the background as the heliotrope and orris play a major part in the heart. It's the heart that is the most similiar to L'Heure Bleue, but once you get to the drydown, it couldn't be anymore different. The drydown amplifies the sharp honey and tones the heliotrope waaay down. Also a very distinct civet note creeps up. Heartwrentchingly breathtaking.
    So all you vintage and Guerlain-lovin freaks, you owe yourself to try these masterpieces. And I'm terribly sorry for these short-descriptions. Because of the complexity of these fragrances, it's quite hard to "get" what they're all about unless you give them atleast a couple wearing. So I'm off to sniff and sniff again, so I can report back; and you go do the same thing. Well...what are you waiting for!!!
    I'm curious to what you think about these Grossmith fragrances after some time has elapsed, scent.
    - Expect the unexpected

  13. #13

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    This is very timely Flaconneur as yesterday I've worn Hasu-no-Hana after such a long time! I still stick with what I've said previously. It's quite similar to Phul-Nana, but whereas P-N retains an oriental Jicky-ish vibe to the drydown, H-n-H dances on the edge of chypre and oriental, kinda like Vol de Nuit. If I was to compare these to scents on the market today, I'd say P-N (my favorite) is closest to a variety of Carons including En Avion and also vintage Patou's (Divine Folie) in particular; H-n-H has a chypre-ish feel of VdN along with it's signature Guerlinade bittersweet vanilla; Shem el Nessim is kinda like an animalic L'heure Bleue with a Caron feel to it. Apparently people have either loved them or hated them, but to me I imagine these would smell what a "fresh" batch of a vintage perfume must've smelt back in the day. They are true perfumes.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I just recently had the chance to sample (full wear) Phūl-Nānā, Shem-el-Nessim, Hasu-No-Hana and Betrothal. I was creating positive opinions about these Grossmith fragrances before I had a chance to actually smell them based on the exciting historical context behind their scents. I started with Phūl-Nānā and immediately loved its Oriental vibe. Grossmith fragrances were just as rich as I thought they might be and you are correct when you refer to a "vintage perfume" type presentation. I feel that these Grossmith offerings were like getting into a fragrance time machine. Next was Hasu-No-Hana which I liked but not quite as much as Shem-el-Nessim. I loved the leatheriness that vaguely reminded me of Royal Delight by Creed. Then it was on to Betrothal which really didn't impress me. I would love to purchase, Shem-el-Nessim, Phūl-Nānā and Hasu-No-Hana respectively. Grossmith offers a limited edition coffret Eau de Parfum set with either three 10 ml or 50 ml bottle sets through Luckyscent.com. I think they are in my future.
    - Expect the unexpected

  15. #15

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    When I first smelt Betrothal I honestly thought it was joke. Compared to the fabulous earlier 3, Betrothal was so boring. The SA in Harrods at Roja Dove's told me it was initially created for Kate's wedding but she didn't like it! I purchased the 3 in the 50ml coffret, but recently I gave away my Shem el Nessim to my cousin because she used up her's and plus she had gotten me 4 bell jars from Paris so I thought I'd thank her. The only downside to all three is that they intimate scents and I tend to like my scents noticeable at all times.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    scent, your associations and feelings would make it a 100 % satisfaction guaranteed thing for me... unfortunately, they are not. However hard I try (from my samples), I find that Shem is an unrefined blend with a stale 'vegetal' undertone on me. I can't remember, but either Phul or Hasu was rather interesting at first, but the tonka bean overload killed every bit of interest in me.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    When I first smelt Betrothal I honestly thought it was joke. Compared to the fabulous earlier 3, Betrothal was so boring.
    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    The only downside to all three is that they intimate scents and I tend to like my scents noticeable at all times.
    I found Betrothal very boring as well, scent. I find it impossible to even comparable it to the other three fragrances. Grossmith stated previously that is was a "modern" release. I have not had issue with longevity with the Grossmith fragrances. I was getting about 10-12 hours out of all three previously mentioned. Sillage was also great but they did wear close to the skin towards the end.
    - Expect the unexpected

  18. #18

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    scent, your associations and feelings would make it a 100 % satisfaction guaranteed thing for me... unfortunately, they are not. However hard I try (from my samples), I find that Shem is an unrefined blend with a stale 'vegetal' undertone on me. I can't remember, but either Phul or Hasu was rather interesting at first, but the tonka bean overload killed every bit of interest in me.
    You're right Larimar! The tonka bean is what gives them their distinct characteristic! Thanks for enlightening me. Oh well, I guess you'll have to do with your gallons of Caron extraits you have

  19. #19

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by Flaconneur View Post
    I found Betrothal very boring as well, scent. I find it impossible to even comparable it to the other three fragrances. Grossmith stated previously that is was a "modern" release. I have not had issue with longevity with the Grossmith fragrances. I was getting about 10-12 hours out of all three previously mentioned. Sillage was also great but they did wear close to the skin towards the end.
    I wear them on fabric most of the time which usually reduces the sillage a bit so I'll have to try it on skin once again.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    You're right Larimar! The tonka bean is what gives them their distinct characteristic! Thanks for enlightening me. Oh well, I guess you'll have to do with your gallons of Caron extraits you have
    Oh scent, you caught me red-handed.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    SeN, PN and HnH are all gorgeous, quality perfumes. (Haven't tried Betrothal, and judging by other comments, haven't missed much). Shem is so like the original LhB that I really crave an FB to replace my lost-forever perfume love. I thought I detected something very green and spicy in the middle notes of Shem that reminded me a little of tomato leaf - but I could be wrong, it could be something else. Definitely on my Santa list this year. Just what perfume ought to be.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by redrose View Post
    SeN, PN and HnH are all gorgeous, quality perfumes. (Haven't tried Betrothal, and judging by other comments, haven't missed much). Shem is so like the original LhB that I really crave an FB to replace my lost-forever perfume love. I thought I detected something very green and spicy in the middle notes of Shem that reminded me a little of tomato leaf - but I could be wrong, it could be something else. Definitely on my Santa list this year. Just what perfume ought to be.
    I find all 3 of the Grossmith have a strong clovey, carnation heart so that might be the spicy accord you're smelling.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I'm wearing HnH now. On cloth the clove is apparent but on skin it's tonka and oak moss. I love the 3.

    Thanks for sharing scent

    for swap/sale:





  24. #24

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by scent View Post
    Ok I've been wanting to try this line ever since it was relaunched by Roja Dove, and finally today I have. Amazed doesn't even begin to describe my feeling towards these creations. I am also a proud owner of all three of the Grossmith creations in 50ml EDP. It is my most satisifying purchase perfume-wise in years, and that's because it shines a hopeful light towards vintage perfumery. These three fragrances smell of a different era and truly gives a feeling of true hope that perfumery is not dead. I have not gotten acquainted properly with these three because they are truly complex and mesmerizing and require proper sniffing. I'll give you an extremely brief description of each scent based on upon a very brief observation.
    Hasu-no Hana: It starts off with something very indolic that begins to fade it animalic exterior to show a spicy floral heart that eventually leads to a chypre-oriental base of tonka bean and oakmoss. Very, very complex.
    Phul-Nana: First observations show an aromatic-floral top that leads to a rich floral heart.
    Shem-el Nessim: The most "obvious" of the bunch. This is clearly an interpreation of L'heure Bleue. Although L'heure Bleue was given a second awakeing in Pierre Guillaume's brilliant gourmand take on it in Bois de Copaiba, Shem el-Nessim takes an extremely interesting take on the Guerlain classic. When you spray SeN, you get an intensely animalic honey (read urinous not too far away from MdB), that fades into the background as the heliotrope and orris play a major part in the heart. It's the heart that is the most similiar to L'Heure Bleue, but once you get to the drydown, it couldn't be anymore different. The drydown amplifies the sharp honey and tones the heliotrope waaay down. Also a very distinct civet note creeps up. Heartwrentchingly breathtaking.
    So all you vintage and Guerlain-lovin freaks, you owe yourself to try these masterpieces. And I'm terribly sorry for these short-descriptions. Because of the complexity of these fragrances, it's quite hard to "get" what they're all about unless you give them atleast a couple wearing. So I'm off to sniff and sniff again, so I can report back; and you go do the same thing. Well...what are you waiting for!!!
    I sign in for EVERY word you wrote!! These 3 perfumes are one glory of an experience ! I am so happy to have two of these wonderful perfume! And perfumes they are!! Even in the EDP concentration they go on forever to last!! Shem el Nessim is my absolute favourite closely followed by Hasu.. then the wonderful flowery Phul Nana .. I m yes to test the new Betrothal but am really afraid of it because of the price.. but the other 2 deserve every Dollar they cost! This is Perfume art as good as it gets!! Grossly underrated!! People, lovers of classical perfumery, please try these beauties! Thanks for your short review

  25. #25

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Shem El Nessim is on my very short "must-buy" list for this year.

    Does anybody know if the parfum concentration only comes with a spray? Thank you!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    gabyvinki, welcome to Basenotes!
    I agree that these are overlooked magnificent perfumes.

    Gelbe, the larger 100ml parfum comes with a spray which is screw-on.
    I don't recall the smaller parfum bottles.

    for swap/sale:





  27. #27

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Thank you, Hedonist! I am planning to purchase a 10 ml parfum bottle and I remember reading that they come with sprays. I wonder how much mileage I can get from it, i.e., if spraying a 10ml thingie won't mean it will be gone in the blink of an eye.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Depends primarily on how much you spray.
    I spray about 12 to 15 and can go up to 20 on lighter perfumes which translate to 1ml to 2ml.

    I only spray 6 sprays of Hasu No Hana which is more than suffice.

    for swap/sale:





  29. #29

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I wish I liked any of the Grossmith line ( I like the concept, the history, and even the people behind them seem pretty nice ), but they all seem plagued by an intense, acrid soapy note and too, too much powder.

    I do smell the connection between Shem-El-Nessim and L'Heure Bleue, but then, I can't stand L'Heure Bleu, either, so I guess that fits?

  30. #30

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Suga, the soapy note goes away in 10-15 mins and Phul Na Na is the most powdery of the trio.

    I urge you to try HnH.

    for swap/sale:





  31. #31

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Depends primarily on how much you spray.
    I spray about 12 to 15 and can go up to 20 on lighter perfumes which translate to 1ml to 2ml.

    I only spray 6 sprays of Hasu No Hana which is more than suffice.
    Thank you! So 20 sprays = 1 or 2 ml then?

  32. #32

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by GelbeDomino View Post
    Thank you! So 20 sprays = 1 or 2 ml then?
    Yes sweety. Approx. 20 sprays is about 2ml.
    Today I was decanting perfumes for a friend and about 20 sprays filled up a 2ml atomizer.

    for swap/sale:





  33. #33

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by hedonist222 View Post
    Yes sweety. Approx. 20 sprays is about 2ml.
    Today I was decanting perfumes for a friend and about 20 sprays filled up a 2ml atomizer.
    Thank you lots! That was really useful.

  34. #34
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    I just tried Betrothal from a $12 sample! It is quite a nice mellow floral to start, nothing objectionable. After the dry-down it becomes a soft powdery floral of no particular distinction.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by gabyvinki View Post
    I sign in for EVERY word you wrote!! These 3 perfumes are one glory of an experience ! I am so happy to have two of these wonderful perfume! And perfumes they are!! Even in the EDP concentration they go on forever to last!! Shem el Nessim is my absolute favourite closely followed by Hasu.. then the wonderful flowery Phul Nana .. I m yes to test the new Betrothal but am really afraid of it because of the price.. but the other 2 deserve every Dollar they cost! This is Perfume art as good as it gets!! Grossly underrated!! People, lovers of classical perfumery, please try these beauties! Thanks for your short review
    One post and glorious reviews??? Hmmmm.

    All in all, this line will be put on my high list for the next samples.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  36. #36
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Jon and I checked these out at Roja Dove's last year - I did love Shem el Nassim - and immediately L'Heure Bleue came to mind as Scent has said. I wasn't too enthusiastic about the rest . I may just try them all again to see how my tastes have changed .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    My bottle of Shem El Nessim EdP is here and yes, my first impression was that I found it quite similar to pre-reformulation L'Heure Bleue, only softer and more subtle, as if the notes had been passed through a sieve.
    I find the concentration quite light for an EdP and the lasting power could be a bit better for the price. It is a beautiful fragrance. I got samples of the other 3 Grossmith fragrances. I will try them later this week.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post
    Jon and I checked these out at Roja Dove's last year - I did love Shem el Nassim - and immediately L'Heure Bleue came to mind as Scent has said. I wasn't too enthusiastic about the rest . I may just try them all again to see how my tastes have changed .


    Shem el Nassim is outstanding. Bought my wife a bottle when it was first released. It's half empty now. The others I did't care for too much. Betrothal is down right disgusting - a real scrubber IMHO.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    Just sampled Betrothal (It is a pretty floral but I, personally, don't find it that special) and Hasu No Hana (a deep and spicy beauty). Hasu No Hana might be bottle worthy for me.

  40. #40

    Default Re: Grossmith Parfums -- devastatingly gorgeous

    The only one that really stood out was Hasu No Hana but sadly the longevity was not great (and for the price I would expect better) so that's a deal-breaker for me.

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