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  1. #31

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    and IFRA wants classic chypres off the market.
    Would anyone care to elaborate on what this means?
    url=http://www.basenotes.net/wardrobe/972]Wardrobe[/url]

  2. #32

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by Largo View Post
    Merry, I think you're suggesting that real masculinity lies in being secure and comfortable with oneself ... By "macho", I simply mean fragrances that have something in common with the mossy, woody frags that were popular 30 or so years ago.
    Not exactly. Real masculinity lies in between the ears - just kidding. There is no such thing anymore. Macho meant in the eighties - as far as I have had been concerned - self confidence without any grounds but visualized sex appeal. Something rude, anti social, not to bright, though.

    My personal master plan is to have an ancient, therefore very basic sweet/herbal females "signature scent", namely FLORAMYE (aldehyde, violet/orris, powder) while my girl friend uses BANDIT, that I just ordered. She promised to like it as I like my FLORAMYE. Think we don't split about it. Everyone wears what she/he likes ...

  3. #33
    shamu1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    If we're going to assume "macho", for the purposes of this discussion, means extroverted, testosterone-fueled, nails-for-breakfast, overdone masculinity, I can't think of any scent released in the past 5 years that I've tried which falls into this category. I think you're "stuck" with the Quorums and Kouroses from the 1980s.

  4. #34

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver. It takes the classic concept of Guerlain Vetiver and interprets it for the modern man. Allows you to feel classic without sharing the same scent associations of men from the past 50 years. Tom Ford's best fragrance yet IMO.
    [/B]
    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    He hit a home run with this one IMO.
    Again, due to the heavy usage of the aroma chemical Iso E Super in TFGV both fragrances, TFGV and Guerlains Vetiver can not be compared. After 2 showers, and about 6 hand washes I'm still aware of an Iso E Super smell on my left wrist. It was an other than TFGV, but once I tried the latter I have had the same effect. Guerlains is by far more respectful to my nose, that means to its user.

    The comparison between TFGV and Guerlains Vetiver is as odd as to take a black wetsuit as a "better" concept of black than black microfibre underwear. In case of really using it as clothing the difference will show. Especially when doing a home run.
    Last edited by merry.waters; 11th February 2010 at 07:22 PM.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Amouage Silver updates the macho man in the boardroom style rather nicely. Sharp and rich, in a strong voice.

  6. #36
    KMF's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Gucci PH
    Encre Noire
    Bvlgari Black
    Polo Modern Reserve
    Fahrenheit Absolute
    A*Men Pure Malt

    Perhaps Azzaro PH Elixir when it's available??

  7. #37

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    [/B]

    Again, due to the heavy usage of the aroma chemical Iso E Super in TFGV both fragrances, TFGV and Guerlains Vetiver can not be compared. After 2 showers, and about 6 hand washes I'm still aware of an Iso E Super smell on my left wrist. It was an other than TFGV, but once I tried the latter I have had the same effect. Guerlains is by far more respectful to my nose, that means to its user.

    The comparison between TFGV and Guerlains Vetiver is as odd as to take a black wetsuit as a "better" concept of black than black microfibre underwear. In case of really using it as clothing the difference will show. Especially when doing a home run.
    I wasn't commenting on any similarities between the two. I just liked the scent; I think he did a good job with Grey Vetiver. I prefer the Guerlain personally.

    Re: ISO E Super, it is not an inherently evil aroma chemical, but I think it is to perfume what auto tune is to popular music. It can be used to good effect, or it can be used to make everything smell alike, and also to take an inferior formula and make it smell "modern" and marketable. In the case of Grey Vetiver, I feel it is used to good effect.
    Last edited by mrclmind; 11th February 2010 at 07:57 PM.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Re: ISO E Super, ... In the case of Grey Vetiver, I feel it is used to good effect.
    I like a raw vetiver without peculiar fixatives more. Even the Givenchy Vetiver is more pleasing towards a somehow male vetiver. It fishes for compliments - on men only! And it is green, fresh, shows it's wearer well minded and having brains, contemplative, what is after all a residual male domain to some degree. Same with Beene's Grey Flannel but more sharp, unmistakenly.

    If You are after a rude Vetiver try ETRO. It is NOT green but heavily smokey and still airy light. A sweeter, but sharper rendition would be L.T. Piver Vetiver - that I use in dilution with isopropanol to enhance its radiation a bit. TFGV lacks any inspiration, sorry.
    Last edited by merry.waters; 11th February 2010 at 08:41 PM.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Nassamato Duro

  10. #40
    StylinLA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by shamu1 View Post
    If we're going to assume "macho", for the purposes of this discussion, means extroverted, testosterone-fueled, nails-for-breakfast, overdone masculinity, I can't think of any scent released in the past 5 years that I've tried which falls into this category. I think you're "stuck" with the Quorums and Kouroses from the 1980s.
    Holding to last 5 years, I'm stumped too. Maybe Duro- but when did that come out?

  11. #41

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    I like a raw vetiver without peculiar fixatives more. Even the Givenchy Vetiver is more pleasing towards a somehow male vetiver. It fishes for compliments - on men only! And it is green, fresh, shows it's wearer well minded and having brains, contemplative, what is after all a residual male domain to some degree. Same with Beene's Grey Flannel but more sharp, unmistakenly.

    If You are after a rude Vetiver try ETRO. It is NOT green but heavily smokey and still airy light. A sweeter, but sharper rendition would be L.T. Piver Vetiver - that I use in dilution with isopropanol to enhance its radiation a bit. TFGV lacks any inspiration, sorry.
    I judge each composition on its own merits.. I try avoid preconceived notions about what I like.
    Last edited by mrclmind; 11th February 2010 at 11:28 PM.

  12. #42
    Hob Dobson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    "and IFRA wants classic chypres off the market."
    Quote Originally Posted by conehead View Post
    Would anyone care to elaborate on what this means?
    Simply that some of the defining components and aromachemicals that went into the older chypres - from citrus top notes, to oakmoss in the base - are being ever more tightly regulated by that organization.

  13. #43

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    I recommend to try Gucci PH I and II as well as Esencia by Loewe, and just about any vetiver scent including Encre Noir
    Off-Site Decants =) (updated 05/16/12)
    http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic....7994440fd3c0ab

  14. #44
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by shamu1 View Post
    If we're going to assume "macho", for the purposes of this discussion, means extroverted, testosterone-fueled, nails-for-breakfast, overdone masculinity, I can't think of any scent released in the past 5 years that I've tried which falls into this category. I think you're "stuck" with the Quorums and Kouroses from the 1980s.
    One of my favorite posts to the forum in months. Don't you agree, Dimitrios?
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  15. #45

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    What about the Havana re-release?
    Looking for: Andy Tauer - L'air du Desert Morocain & Incense Extreme

    Check out my NEW Aussie sale / trade thread here -
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/249...76#post1801576

  16. #46

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    'Don't think so. The TF-V is far from Guerlains because of the simple fact that TF-V contains large amounts of Iso E Super. The latter aroma chemical constitutes a very different "wear" of a scent. An analogy would be to wear a polyester microfibre T-shirt (Guerlain) compared to a wet suit (Iso E Super in general). I personally prefer two-ply cotton, though.

    I think today no specific style of scent is connected to machismo in western culture (advertisment).
    Merry.Waters, I am very curious as to why you say like Terre d'Hermes so much, when elswere in this thread you seem to vehemently dislike Iso E Super. Perhaps I am misunderstanding you.

    Iso E Super makes up more than half the formula of Terre d'Hermes.

  17. #47
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    ...Iso E Super makes up more than half the formula of Terre d'Hermes.
    55%

    http://www.perfumedeal.com/blog/terr...hermes-review/
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  18. #48
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    I just bought Mr. Blass by Bill Blass last week. It is a 2009 release, but it is a modern/slightly toned down take on the 1980s powerhouses. A modern approach to the 1980s powerhouse genre. Recommended!
    Currently wearing: Bijan for Men by Bijan

  19. #49
    shamu1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    To sound like a broken record here, I think Mazzolari Lui is insanely macho (dirty patchouli and animalic juices) and was probably released within the last ten years, but is also insanely expensive ($175 for a 3.4). I think it "out-machos" most of the 80s scents. And that's coming from me, a guy who loves and wears 80s powerscents.
    Last edited by shamu1; 12th February 2010 at 01:54 PM.

  20. #50

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Anyone remembers Dona Karan Fuel for Men. Thank god it is available again! Macho but with a very modern twist.

  21. #51
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Merry.Waters, I am very curious as to why you say like Terre d'Hermes so much, when elswere in this thread you seem to vehemently dislike Iso E Super. Perhaps I am misunderstanding you.

    Iso E Super makes up more than half the formula of Terre d'Hermes.
    I'm still trying to figure out what the hell Iso E Super has to do with this thread at all - as well as wetsuits and underwear....
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  22. #52

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    i'm still trying to figure out what the hell iso e super has to do with this thread at all - as well as wetsuits and underwear....
    lmao

  23. #53

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    I'm still trying to figure out what the hell Iso E Super has to do with this thread at all - as well as wetsuits and underwear....
    someone wrote this:

    "Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver. It takes the classic concept of Guerlain Vetiver and interprets it for the modern man. Allows you to feel classic without sharing the same scent associations of men from the past 50 years. Tom Ford's best fragrance yet IMO."

    I answered exactly that:

    "'Don't think so. The TF-V is far from Guerlains because of the simple fact that TF-V contains large amounts of Iso E Super. The latter aroma chemical constitutes a very different "wear" of a scent. An analogy would be to wear a polyester microfibre T-shirt (Guerlain) compared to a wet suit (Iso E Super in general). I personally prefer two-ply cotton, though."

    From that You might see the connection. If not, be it.

  24. #54

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    someone wrote this:

    "Tom Ford - Grey Vetiver. It takes the classic concept of Guerlain Vetiver and interprets it for the modern man. Allows you to feel classic without sharing the same scent associations of men from the past 50 years. Tom Ford's best fragrance yet IMO."

    I answered exactly that:

    "'Don't think so. The TF-V is far from Guerlains because of the simple fact that TF-V contains large amounts of Iso E Super. The latter aroma chemical constitutes a very different "wear" of a scent. An analogy would be to wear a polyester microfibre T-shirt (Guerlain) compared to a wet suit (Iso E Super in general). I personally prefer two-ply cotton, though."

    From that You might see the connection. If not, be it.
    But later you were praising Terre d'Hermes which has much more of a concentration of Iso E Super than Grey Vetiver, so I don't get what your point is.

  25. #55

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by Largo View Post
    I’d like to focus on scents from the last 10-12 years or so.
    FM Vetiver Extraordinaire
    AOS Sandalwood
    TF Italian Cypress
    Alan Cumming Cumming
    Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac
    Creed Tabaróme Millésime
    Lutens Muscs Koublaď Khän
    Hermes Rocabar

    Probably a lot more, I just haven't tested them yet...

  26. #56

    Lightbulb Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Merry.Waters, I am very curious as to why you say like Terre d'Hermes so much, when elsewere in this thread you seem to vehemently dislike Iso E Super. Perhaps I am misunderstanding you.

    Iso E Super makes up more than half the formula of Terre d'Hermes.
    Preach, brther, preach!
    Last edited by Spray; 13th February 2010 at 04:59 AM.

  27. #57
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Nostalgia by Santa Maria Novella (2002)

    Should have been named "Steve McQueen"
    Last edited by adonis; 13th February 2010 at 05:07 AM.

  28. #58
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    CH for Men - Carolina Herrera

    Modern machismo with a Spanish flair. Fahrenheit Absolute + leather.
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  29. #59

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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Guerlain Coriolan / L'Ŕme d'un Héros*
    Lancome Miracle Homme
    Divine L'Homme Sage*
    Villoresi Piper N*
    Kiton Men
    M7

    ...and if further back was acceptable:
    Givenchy Xerius (black)
    Dior Jules


    *= perhaps not for the office.
    Last edited by narcus; 13th February 2010 at 07:18 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  30. #60

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    I think we're stuck with all these great 70's-80's Powerhouses for the Macho Meter types like Shamu1 Suggested. But Polo modern Reserve, Narciso rodriguez, And Rive Gauche Pour Homme come close

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