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  1. #61
    shamu1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    I'm thinking, and hoping, that once the general public stops thinking of 80s scents (men's AND women's) like Giorgio, Fendi and Poison as "syrups" or "The Great Fall" as Turin and Sanchez describe them, then maybe the major designer houses won't be so afraid to release some fragrances with balls.

    I like fragrances of all sorts, but I'm sorry, stuff like Joop Homme!, though strong, sure as hell ain't "macho" or a powerhouse.
    Last edited by shamu1; 14th February 2010 at 02:40 PM.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Hmmm...
    I know I am relatively new to this, so if my opinion is entirely wrong, I hope you will just ignore me instead of berate me.

    If I were going for more a power masculine angle, I would start with a classic aftershave like English Leather and attempt to pair a cologne for a support driven role. I realize I just completely worked around your modern scent rule.

    Apart from that, try Tuscan Leather, a 2007 scent. I guess leather is a component I think of as masculine, I guess. Maybe a 1740 Marquis de Sade. Possibly a bottle of Summer Night, for when (if) it ever warms up.

  3. #63
    PawelL
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Polo Modern Reserve
    Last edited by PawelL; 24th June 2010 at 09:56 PM.

  4. #64
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    Angry Re: Modern machismo.

    Modern Machismo, shamu??? This is a bit of a stretch. Nothing can compare with the chutzpah of our late 1970s and 1980s powerhouse fragrances. There is a general consensus in the powerhouse fragrance forum that a powerhouse must possess projection and longevity, but ALSO a certain attitude. No creation of the 1990s of 2000s that I know of (apart form Basala by Shiseido) displays the balls of a truly macho fragrance such as Van Cleef & Arpels PH, Yatagan, Sung Homme, Bijan for Men, Francesco Smalto PH, Oscar de la Renta pour Lui, Lapidus pour Homme, etc., etc., etc.. The closest, very recent creation which attempts powerhouse/macho status is Mr. Blass by Bill Blass (2009). It doesn't quite pique the machometer, but it is a noteworthy 'attempt' thereat. The weak, watered down crap indicative of the present spiral downward in terms of 'fragrances with personality' has caused me to stock up on the aforementioned ballsy frags before they are only available to be experienced in written expression (i.e., before they go out of production forever).

  5. #65
    shamu1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by SillageMonger View Post
    No creation of the 1990s of 2000s that I know of (apart form Basala by Shiseido) displays the balls of a truly macho fragrance such as Van Cleef & Arpels PH, Yatagan, Sung Homme, Bijan for Men, Francesco Smalto PH, Oscar de la Renta pour Lui, Lapidus pour Homme, etc., etc., etc..
    Although it was never a favorite of mine, I'll definitely agree with you on Basala, SM. That juice had just about every note known to man contained in it. A brutal brew for sure.

    When was Havana released, by the way? I think it was released originally in the 90s and as we all know has been re-released. That is most certainly a very powerful and macho scent.

    By the way SM, I wasn't the original poster on the thread. I agree with you that "macho" scents post-1990 are few and far between.

  6. #66
    SillageMonger's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Yeah I realize, shamu, that you aren't the originator of this thread, but you are the b-noter with whom I am most in agreement with regarding powerhouse fragrances!

  7. #67
    shamu1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Come to think of it, if we're talking about scents released in the past 5 years or so, though it's not a favorite of mine, I think Onyx by Azzaro fits the bill of "modern machismo" (granted not as well as the revered 70s and 80s scents). I find it to be strong and sort of like a cross b/w Azzaro Pour Homme, Drakkar Noir and Cool Water (heavy on the Drakkar). Compared to so much of the flaccid designer and niche releases, Onyx seems pretty macho, but compared to Quorum, e.g., it smells pretty impotent.

  8. #68
    SillageMonger's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    You know, shamu, you may very well have something there. I own 100 ml of Onyx by Azarro which I have worn about 4 times since purchase.....and while it isn't a full-on donaker powerhouse, it is one of the ballsier frags of recent time (since I can think of no other that qualifies). Once again (as you know), the fact that I have been hesitant to wear Onyx to work indicates (to me, as it should by now to you too, shamu) that it is at least a borderline-/pseudo- powerhouse frag.

  9. #69

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    But later you were praising Terre d'Hermes which has much more of a concentration of Iso E Super than Grey Vetiver, so I don't get what your point is.
    Your reference to that is this:

    "If "modern" means to You wearing a wet suit instead of cotton underwear, be it. In that case I would suggest Terre D'Hermes anyway. Nothing is more "macho" than a perfume that works on pure imagination and sells itself as knowledgeable transparent multifaceted. "Macho" and Terre D'Hermes may have a lot in common, no?

    Didn't get the irony?

  10. #70
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    xxxx
    Last edited by mrclmind; 15th February 2010 at 03:30 PM.

  11. #71

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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Wow, Sham and SM. I never tried Onyx. I thought it was another watery juice until you Guy's mentioned it. I'll try it now.

  12. #72
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    Your reference to that is this:

    "If "modern" means to You wearing a wet suit instead of cotton underwear, be it. In that case I would suggest Terre D'Hermes anyway. Nothing is more "macho" than a perfume that works on pure imagination and sells itself as knowledgeable transparent multifaceted. "Macho" and Terre D'Hermes may have a lot in common, no?

    Didn't get the irony?
    I didn't get it sorry... But thank you for pointing it up.

  13. #73

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    I didn't get it sorry... But thank you for pointing it up.
    Nevertheless TDH is praised as a perfect "Men Only" scent for a decent man. Nothing but a machismo. TDH is said to render a new level of abstraction, exploring new grounds. But it comes by far to short, as it does rely on Iso E Super to (a) blend the mess and (b) make it last for more than a few seconds. TDH might be regarded as artsy, but it lacks handicraft. A pseudo interlectual machismo, may be. It hits its target group very well as far as I read it here and there.

  14. #74
    Sur la Plage

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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    Nevertheless TDH is praised as a perfect "Men Only" scent for a decent man. Nothing but a machismo. TDH is said to render a new level of abstraction, exploring new grounds. But it comes by far to short, as it does rely on Iso E Super to (a) blend the mess and (b) make it last for more than a few seconds. TDH might be regarded as artsy, but it lacks handicraft. A pseudo interlectual machismo, may be. It hits its target group very well as far as I read it here and there.
    As far as I can tell, no one in this thread recommended/suggested Terre D'Hermes has a "modern machismo" fragrance. You are the one who brought it into the discussion.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  15. #75
    mrclmind's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    Nevertheless TDH is praised as a perfect "Men Only" scent for a decent man. Nothing but a machismo. TDH is said to render a new level of abstraction, exploring new grounds. But it comes by far to short, as it does rely on Iso E Super to (a) blend the mess and (b) make it last for more than a few seconds. TDH might be regarded as artsy, but it lacks handicraft. A pseudo interlectual machismo, may be. It hits its target group very well as far as I read it here and there.
    Am I reading too much into your posts or do you really dislike Iso E Super?

    I wrote you a long winded rebuttal here:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/245...ents?p=1748874
    Last edited by mrclmind; 15th February 2010 at 05:35 PM.

  16. #76

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Iso E sounds like the perfumers MSG
    You can check out my fragrances at www.garnerjames.com
    While I work on the website, you can email me for any inquiries at james@garnerjames.com

  17. #77
    mr. reasonable's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Just picking up on the OPs 'mossy' comment - and given the dearth of anything with oakmoss these days - I notice no-one has mentioned Estee Lauder. I picked up a small bottle of 'Brasil Dream' at Duty Free recently and quite like it - retro vibe but not shouting about it . . . anyone come across this one? I haven't tried the Estee Lauder 'for men' scents but may investigate, now.

    I agree with mrclmind about Malle's Bois d'Orage - aka French Lover outside of USA - modern guy stuff, very cool.

    Also +1 Mazzolari Lui & Tabarome Millesime and throw in PdN New York as others that might fit the bill for the OP.

  18. #78
    Sur la Plage

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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by mr. reasonable View Post
    Just picking up on the OPs 'mossy' comment - and given the dearth of anything with oakmoss these days - I notice no-one has mentioned Estee Lauder. I picked up a small bottle of 'Brasil Dream' at Duty Free recently and quite like it - retro vibe but not shouting about it . . . anyone come across this one? I haven't tried the Estee Lauder 'for men' scents but may investigate, now.
    I really like this one also. Definitely try Lauder for Men if you haven't already.
    Please feel free to check out my Swap Thread - Patou pour Homme, L'Instant de Guerlain PH Extreme, Dior Homme Intense, Pure Malt, Pure Coffee and many more! Click Here For My Swap Thread

  19. #79
    mrclmind's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by wooznib View Post
    Iso E sounds like the perfumers MSG
    I suppose some would view it that way... but in reality it's simply an aroma chemical that is currently in vogue. It's not a good or a bad thing, it is simply a color on the palate (or more accurately scent on the perfumer's organ).
    Last edited by mrclmind; 15th February 2010 at 06:29 PM.

  20. #80
    surreality's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Sel de Vetiver by TDC and Patchouli 24 are macho fragrances that are a little more restrained than many of the powerhouses of the past.
    Seek not the favor of the multitude; it is seldom got by honest and lawful means. But seek the testimony of few; and number not voices, but weigh them. - Immanuel Kant

  21. #81
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by SillageMonger View Post
    I just bought Mr. Blass by Bill Blass last week. It is a 2009 release, but it is a modern/slightly toned down take on the 1980s powerhouses. A modern approach to the 1980s powerhouse genre. Recommended!
    Don't ignore this recommendation - this didn't get a wide launch in the US - I believe the only places it got a full roll-out were a few countries in Latin America. It's still available at a handful of discounters though and is a great modern take on the 80s powerhouses. It uses a new (very nice,) type of musk that gives it a both a modern and classic feel.
    I refuse to sink.

  22. #82

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    As far as I can tell, no one in this thread recommended/suggested Terre D'Hermes has a "modern machismo" fragrance. You are the one who brought it into the discussion.
    Yes, if Tom Fords Grey Vetiver is considered to match the profile of a Macho Mans Scent, then Terre D'Hermes by Hermes, ip JC Ellena has to be suggested first. For they share the same target group, but TDH drives the concept even further to its center: If You don't know how to smell, project it brute. TDH: transparent, translucent, read don't know what, but make it everlasting.

    The good thing about TDH is, it smells like these huge public mediterran vegan bio-waste cans outside - including the "flint" which is rotting eggshells. Know that? I -really- like it! Some odors are complex, mellow, if not smelled in their original context! But it is unwearable for a man of true style due to its rudeness, which is the >50% Iso E Super.

    I recently tried Morabitos Or Noir, though. Rude, resembling ammonium chloride, licorice, sweetened. Some reviews got diesel plus flowers, soapy inventing a story around it, a trucker drove into a front garden - it mustn't be that complicated. It stinks if modern expectations are concerned! Try that.

  23. #83
    shamu1's Avatar
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    I'm definitely not knocking anyone who likes Terre d'Hermes (you like what you like, period), but I don't think it comes even close to what the original poster's idea of a macho-smelling fragrance is. Sure, a really macho guy could pull off wearing it well, but the smell itself?! Personally I don't like TdH at all, but my own tastes aside, I don't find it to be bold or daring at all. I find it to be a rather light, fruity scent - far from "macho" smell.

  24. #84

    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by shamu1 View Post
    ... I don't think it comes even close to what the original poster's idea of a macho-smelling fragrance is.
    I wrote: "Yes, IF Tom Fords Grey Vetiver is considered to match the profile of a Macho Mans Scent, then Terre D'Hermes by Hermes, ip JC Ellena has to be suggested first."

    Again, what is macho at all? Being http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machismo TDH will fit the contemporary stereotype. It is men only. It is what men see in themselves today as men. The marketing strategies go for it, obviously.

    If it is a bit of a hefty fougere/cyphre, sweet and just to much, of disgusting thickness and as it should fit a former stereotype, consider my second suggestion, OR BLACK (not OR NOIR!) by Morabito.

  25. #85
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    Default Re: Modern machismo.

    Quote Originally Posted by petruccijc View Post
    I really like this one also. Definitely try Lauder for Men if you haven't already.
    Thanks - that's all the excuse I needed

    I'm seriously interested in knowing if Aramis & Estee Lauder are or have been less concerned about adopting the IFRA zero tolerance policy (okay .000whatever%) in their stuff. Are Havana / Tuscany et al & Lauder for Men actually brewed and bottled in Europe or 'at home'?

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