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  1. #1

    Default Trumpers Standard Leather?

    I almost posted this in the Trumpers Gentlefolk group forum, but I decided it would get more visibility here...

    This weekend (Fri-Mon) I'm embarking on a mission of rediscovery...the old-school Trumpers scents Astor, Curzon, Eucris, and Marlborough. When I tried them the first time, these all fell together into the general herbal musty leather category: the land between Antaeus and Yatagan. (does this mean that 1980s scents actually resemble 1880s scents!?) Spanish Leather was exempted in my mind because of its much sweeter spice component.

    Now, the second time going through them, I'm hoping to differentiate better. I have faith that I will find new subtleties which, while not necessarily compelling me to purchase any, will help me assign to each one a personality of its own.

    How have these four struck you? Do some of you still find them highly similar even after a number of wearings? Have you grown to prefer some over others? Inquiring minds are dying to know!

  2. #2

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Good luck with the revisiting and discovery process!
    Here's how I think of the Trumper issue. There is what the company calls the "Trumper Collection" -- which contains four scents from the later Victorian era (1876-1882). Each of them is masculine-styled, but each has a distinct character. These are Wellington (lemon-mint), Marlborough (cloves & cedar), Astor (caraway & sandalwood), and Curzon (an herbal chypre).
    Eucris is from a slightly later date (1912) and is somewhat similar to Astor or Marlborough. In my experience it is a bigger, more powerful scent, arguably more complex.
    In order of preference, I own Curzon, Astor and Eucris.
    Cheers!
    PS -- on my skin, I haven't detected a leather note in any of those. Perhaps a slight musty note in Wellington, but that is part of its particular charm. "Dusty lemon drops in a library."
    Last edited by odysseusm; 13th February 2010 at 02:47 PM.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  3. #3

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Wellington is so dusty and herbal of a take on lemon that I can't deal with it. I'm OK with the fact that it's not very sweet, but it has some herb which is a constituent of "italian seasonings" and makes it seem too much of a kitchen spice rack scent. I feel like it belongs more on my cod filet than on me. I was really pleased with the other lemon, GFT, though. It has all the aspects of Burberry Weekend that I like *dodges flying tomatos* but is more refined, with a gentler, rounder soapiness than Weekend. That's how I like my lemon and herbs to be done!

    Generally, GFT and Sandalwood are the summer and winter winners for me among the Trumpers line. Contemplating second place for Skye and Spanish Leather.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    For me the only "classic" (late 19th/early 20th century) Trumper frags that I REALLY like are Astor, Curzon, Marlborough, Wellington (the ultra-classics - I also believe, though someone may correct me if I'm wrong, that these four remain 100% true to their original formulations, or so I have heard from a reliable source) and Limes. After that Spanish Leather is okay and Quinine I have something of a love/hate relationship with.

    As for the rest of the "classic" Trumper frags which are still readily available - I can't stand Eucris, Wild Fern, Milk of Flowers, Lavender, Portugal, Royal and Bay Rum. They've all got that awful stereotypical cloying sweet powdery accord so popular back then. I don't know, people whinge all the time on BN about ozonics and aquatics, but good griff at least it's better to smell like an ocean breeze (even a synthetic one) than an 80 year old man wearing gone off talcum powder!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Interesting.

    I like Limes too...very accurate, but it's a little weak. Wild Fern is too wintergreeny for me (or whatever is similar to wintergreen in classic "fern" frags.

    Ajaccio violets intrigued me...the powderyness, sweetness, and violet itself should turn me off based on previous experience, but for some reason I liked AV in spite of all my expectations. I think it's because it's a cleaner, waterier violet than other violet scents I've had.

    I was surprised today how much stonger Curzon is than yesterday's Astor.

    I think you're right about the four "classic" ones...all those are listed as 1870s and 1880s in the directory, whereas Eucris is post-1900 (tres moderne!)

  6. #6

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Interesting comments here.
    I have a low tolerance to "powder". But I define powder as a sweet scent which brings to mind baby powder. I don't get any of that in Wild Fern. WF seems incredibly green, lively, perky to me. Admittedly it is old school, but it also transcends that (for me) in its green vitality.
    Yes, Curzon is a powerful scent. I love green scents but it took me a while to understand it. Now I love it.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  7. #7

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    On a more general note, let me ask you, Ody, as a Trumpers fan...

    How would you say the Floris or Penhaligon's lines compare to Trumpers overall? I had heard that they aren't always as strictly old-school-British-barbershop as Trumpers.

    I ask because I got the Floris and Pen's "scent library" sets from London's Bathecary (plus a few extras coming from another BNer), and will soon start trying them all...about 7-8 of each. My first Floris and Pen's ever!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    I love old-school British scents generally: Penhaligons, Trumpers, Floris and D. K. Harris. Also Czech & Speake which isn't old-school but is good. Penhaligons and Floris may be a bit more glamorous than Trumpers. But I own more Trumpers than any other line. I really do like them, and I think they give wonderful value. I've only recently started considering Floris. I like Elite and own it.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  9. #9

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    If I may chime in with my own thoughts as someone with many years experience of the trad English houses, I find Floris to be massively over rated and their 89 (highly regarded by MANY people) is, for me, one of the biggest white elephant frags ever released. However their two Santal frags (regular Santal and Santal extreme) are wonderful. Of the two, though, I prefer Penhaligon's - their good frags are VERY good and their modern releases still have a foot in the past (Opus 1870, for example).

    As oddysseusm mentioned, Harris are good too, if a little short lived, but they are all great traditional frags which represent great value for money. Taylor of Old Bond Street also have some greats in their line-up which, again, are good value. My favourite of all the trad English houses, though, is Truefitt & Hill. IMO they haven't released a single duffer and, out of the "upper end" houses (Trumper, Pen's, Floris and T&H) they are the cheapest.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Of course, great_badir! How could I forget Truefitt & Hill. Their Grafton is a go-to scent for me! I need to check out Taylor, I visited their shop but nothing wowed me then.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

  11. #11

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Quote Originally Posted by odysseusm View Post
    Of course, great_badir! How could I forget Truefitt & Hill. Their Grafton is a go-to scent for me! I need to check out Taylor, I visited their shop but nothing wowed me then.
    Like T&H and Harris, TOBS does have a much more limited range compared to the others, but some of them (St James, Mr Taylor's, Mr Sidney's, Eton College and Shaving Shop) can almost stand on the same playing field. And at less than 20 for 100mls too. For a long time they also had one of the best selling linear sandalwood scents even though it was (and still is), ironically, one of the worst. Their two lime frags are also pretty iffy when compared with Trumpers and T&H, and I think it's those sandalwood and lime scents (frags which I guess are the cornerstone of traditional English fragdom) that make people forget about or ignore the rest of the available range. Which is a shame.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    Wow, random interjection:

    there's a major floral component in Marlborough which I didn't notice before...has the creaminess of certain flowers but not very sweet! I'm sensing it into the middle so far.

    (sorry, needed to get that off my chest!)

    The only thing the BN directory lists is geranium...is that what this is?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Trumpers Standard Leather?

    You may know this, Redbeard, but I had to learn that "geranium" is not in fact the geranium flower (with a perky green aromatic smell) but geranium rose. I still find this has a fresh sort of smell (depending on the fragrance) but now I realize that it does sometimes have a more floral aspect. Yes, a geranium note is not usually sweet as other florals are.
    odysseusm

    "The force that through the green fuse drives the flower // drives my green age..." Dylan Thomas

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