Thread: best oud = agarwood scents ???
hello evry one here
I am from kuwait, i was born there and OUD is part of ower daily lives.
there are different types of oud adn mukkalets.
Mukhallet means MIXTURE or mixed. So this can be oud based or safron or ambergris based.
normally we use allot of Mukkalets and not so mutch pure ouds.
Most montales smells like very traditional Mukkallets we use in Kuwait and the gulf reagon.
If you cant detect the " typical " oud note then that doesnt mean that there is no oud in the Mukkalet.
It all depends on how much of oud oil and the type of oud oil.
Some ouds smell very medicinal and some very rotten and fecal.
mostly the top note in mukkalets make u survive the hard start of the oud notes.
Ajmal shams is a good example.
it starts with some fruity, rosey notes and immediately you can smell the leathery animalic INDIAN oud.
i can understand why some people gets this MEDICINAL sensation about it. Mukkhalet SHAMS is a good example of
oud mukkalet. it is oud based and u get the oud note very quick.
there are also sandelwood and rose mukhallets where the oud note is not so pronounced but is ther to
give it a kick.
they are a good and great copy of the traditional mukhalets.
My favorites are golden oud and original oud.
i do get the oud note in bothe but i must say that i understand why some doesnt.
In black oud... i dotn get any oud. Remember, montales makes mukhallets and not pure oud oils.
Original oud is somehow medicinal, gasoline like and sharp oud based perfume.
it is not indian oud but a softer type. this original oud is based on a oud oil that i used to use back then in kuwait.
it was the most common one to get .
i would suggest all to think less about the oud type, origins and how u and the other experience the oud note
and enjoy your senses more and more evry day.
Last edited by moreda; 14th February 2010 at 11:20 AM.
I have a bag of ground Aloeswood powder from India right here that is used in temple incenses.... As soon as I open the bag I get a note that I can definitely see how someone might call "medicinal."
Lol who even uses Oud powder? You gotta use the Oud chips!
Last edited by mrclmind; 13th February 2010 at 11:00 PM.
Heres another weird thing I just thought of.....the mediciny note in black aoud and the other montales are in begining...oud is used as a basenote.....theres no way oud would be a top note and rose would be a basenote....it cant happen!
Suppose you create a blend Dred. In this blend you use only 3 ingredients. Oud, Rose and Black Musk. You start with 1 part Rose essence and then add 1 part Black Musk to the top of that and then finally add 1 part Oud oil. Wouldn't that make the rose essence as the basenote in this blend and the Oud oil as the Top note and the Black Musk as the heart note? I'm not sure myself ...
If you compose a fragrance out of base notes you're likely to smell them first, as both the "top", "heart", and "base". So, with the many patchouli and rose combinations, you notice both the patchouli and the rose. Now, add a lot of citrus on top of that and you're likely to smell them first, because they're more volatile, but all notes are on a spectrum, and designations like "top", "heart", and "base" are fairly inexact and relative designations. Vetiver is a base note if ever there was one, but put a drop of vetiver oil on, and you'll be consumed in waves of vetivery sillage in no time at all.
Last edited by Sugandaraja; 14th February 2010 at 12:41 AM.
if you mixed them together I am pretty sure the rose naturally comes out first...then the musk would come through then finally the oud in the base.....btw that sounds like a great combo!!!!
back to the original question what oud is the best....i would say thaqeel....but since you probably dont want to spend $3500 for 12ml I would then go with agaraura.com cambodhi ateeq or indian spice....incredible quality for only a couple hundred bucks!
hey igor....you should just copy your post and save it somewhere to paste it again next time this comes up! lol you are the voice of reason.
Oud is such a complex scent that it is hard to say that it is always going to act as a base note. The musk will tend to be in the base, and the rose usually sit in the heart... but the oud can be in all three simultaneously, in my experience anyway. Any sharpness in any of the constituents will tend to be perceived as a top note. So if your oud has any rough edges it will definitely be perceived in the top. Like I was saying elsewhere, oud is such a foreign smell to most western noses, that they will use whatever term they can to wrap their heads around it, and I think the term "medicinal" sometimes gets used even though it's not very accurate.
Would it make a difference if you say put the black musk first, followed by the oud and then finally the rose?
Last edited by mrclmind; 14th February 2010 at 07:32 AM.
I meant as in to blend the essential oils together and without diluting them. Let them be as pure as they are even when applying it to your skin.
Explain the concept of volatility please.
Finding the "best oud" will never be like finding your "best rose" or "best cedar" scent simply because genuine high quality agarwood (from which genuine oud oil is distilled) - or high quality agarwood chips - is getting scarcer as the pristine forests where these trees grow are being cut down to make way for 'progress'. Agarwood "poaching" is an ever increasing problem. Finding a "great oud" is more difficult than finding the "best mysore sandalwood" scent - and mysore sandalwood itself is simply too scarce for the mass markets. There are attempts, as I understand it, to produce agarwood plantations in the hope of developing a way to some day produce high quality agarwood in a sustainable way but so far it has only been with limited success.
Experiencing the "best oud", you have to go via essential oils rather than traditional western perfumery. And you have to be willing to spend $$ on very small amounts. Agar Aura is a good place to start for samples. Oriscent has some very good ones too but is pricier ($199 for a sample pack container 6 samples with 0.3 ml each!).
That said, if you want to stay in the world of traditional (alcohol based) perfumery, let your own nose tell you what you enjoy. Who's to tell you that you can't enjoy Tom Ford's "Oud Wood" or Montale's "Oudh Cuir d' Arabie" or "Black Oudh" etc. It won't be the same "experience" as with oud oils - but that might not be what you're looking for.
- Cruel Intentions by ByKilian
- M7 by Ysl
- Aoud by Martine Micallef (I love all Martine Micallef' scents with aoud) (Perfaddict I don't know Aoud Homme)
- Aoud Safran and Aoud Cuir D'Arabie by Montale Paris
- Pure Aoud by ByKilian
- Dark Rose by Czech and Speak (old version)
ecc ecc ecc :-)
CityTower by Jacques Bogart ..... flying under everyones radar !
I bought the Jacques Bogart's scent.....very nice fragrance!!
I like oud, but I've come to realize that when it comes to wearing scents with oud notes, I still prefer mine incorporated into the French style over the Eastern style. The Montales are interesting and fun to wear on occasion, but they are a bit loud and complicated until they dry out.
For me, the Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum has the best of everything. It's not an oud powerhouse, but the oud note is very well integrated and gives a fantastic depth and mysterious vibe to the composition. It takes the Habit Rouge signature and cranks it up to the next level. I like spraying this twice to my chest and then pulling my shirt collar over my nose to inhale it-- very rich, leathery, smooth and resinous. The oud isn't the star of the show, but it makes everything else sharper and more focused.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the CSP oud scents. I've tried all 4 of them and they aren't bad. Of course nothing beats pure oud oil.
Heres a link to the CSP scents
This is hard to find in the U.S. but try to sample Habit Rouge eau de parfum. The agarwood is a nice addition from the EDT.
"...her fragrance all in my keeping; softly she comes in the night." Lyrics, Gordon Lightfoot, "Softly."
My favorite agarwood scents are:
M7 - my first agarwood commercial, to me it smells sirupy, medicinal, woody at the same time.
Black Aoud - a dry, woody agarwood with a incense resinous aura matched with rose and saffron
Midnight Oud Juliette has a gun - a easier to wear version of black aoud
White Aoud - a creamy musk aoud that, while soft, stays all day on skin
Red Aoud - a spicy, dry fruity aoud. I find this one sexy.
Oud Vanille Micallef - this one is cozy gourmand fragrance. This isn`t vanillaish or agarwoodish, is a perfect blend from the creamy gourmand vanilla and the woody spicy oud.
Aoud Gourmet Micallef - a saffronish oud that gets gourmand creamy and incensy when it develops on skin. I detect something grapeish on it that i don`t know which note gives this impression
The best Oud fragance with alcohol
is NIPPON KODO KYARA EDP AND JINKOH EDP ,
KYARA EDP is almost Vietnamese Kyara smell
Jinkoh is between Indonesian and woody-patchouli-incense scent.
Oud is not noticiable smell in others fragances like Montale , LArtisan , LE LABO ...
My Top Favorites: Mitsouko,Houbigant Fougere Royale Jean Patou Homme & Privé. Kilian-A Taste of Heaven.Caron-3rd Man.Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur. YSL River Gauche.Satori Parfum - Satori . Satori-Mother Road 66. Diptique-Eau de Lavande. Creed Bois du Portugal.Nicolai New York. Chanel Pour Monsieur.Aramis Havana.Aramis Tuscany.Azzaro Pour Homme. Hermes Poivre Samarcande.Amouage Homage Attar. Amouage Memoir Man..LArtisan Dzing! Musc Ravageur.
If you're looking for something as easy to find as M7, Dirty English definitely has an "aoud" note--the same note I smell in M7. It's possible they're both synthetic, though.
For me, the straight Aoud is just way too intense. And yes, complex......
Also, regarding the comments about Aoud plantations or farming...Aoud is not merely a kind of tree. It's actually a specific kind of tree that has been "infected" by a certain type of fungus.
I've not smelled the Nippon Kodo scents--but would love to...the Japanese incense tradition is my favorite aoud (Aloeswood) smell, in all it's varieties.
Would like to know the best Oud based fragances on the market right now. Can you give us a list? Thank you!
For whatever it's worth - here's some of my "personal best" pure single-source ouds (only those that are still available today and in no particular order):
Oriscent's Borneo 3000
Oriscent's Borneo Kinam
Oriscent's Kyara Koutan
Oriscent's Royal Kinam
Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's Thaqeel (old stock, not the new one; also - buyer beware - Zahra's is the only web-based seller of this oil, some buyers had issues with their orders. I got mine directly from Saudi Arabia through a good friend.)
Oudimentary's KSSS (I have the original batch from a few years ago, the new one is reportedly different and inferior)
Abdul Samad Al Qurashi's Kalakassi (same seller and same caveat as Thaqeel above)
There are many others, some superior to the ones listed above but not available for purchase anymore.
If you were asking about so called "oud fragrances", my apologies, I probably won't be much help in recommending any since I don't smell any oud in them and can't recommend spending so much (hundreds of dollars in many cases) on weak, watered down synthetic fragrances when breathtakingly complex and beautiful oils like Kyara Koutan or Borneo 3000 can be had for just a hundred or a bit more for 0.5ML. Half a milliliter may not sound like much but it will last you many many many applications and will give you an experience that no pseudo-oud can ever even hope to approximate, no matter how evocative the name is and how luxurious a wooden box housing the bottle looks
Any more suggestions? =)
Are you already done with sampling everything recommended earlier?
I've come across a frag that is actually not a bad rendition of a certain aspect of the oud smoke - Agallocha Muthhela Man. This one is a very different rendition from the usual bandaid-like synthetic pseudo-oud we've know and love [hate], instead of trying to (and failing miserably, like all others) to imitate oud oil it's aiming at reproducing the smell of smoking oud wood and the result is not half-bad. The first 40 minutes or so are great, even if it does recede into the usual synthetic woody type of "oudiness" after that. If I had to wear one synthetic oud, I'd go with this one.