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  1. #1
    Spoombung's Avatar
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    Default Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    I've started making my first prototype perfumes and like a lot of people here, I've noticed that the citrus notes are all but completely gone in 10 minutes (bergamont, lemon, lime, etc). The basenotes last an hour or two at the most.

    Do you think citrus is worth buying at all?

    I was reading 'The Perfect Scent' and Jean Claude Ellena was saying he's often asked to make 'all natural' perfumes but has to politely explain that they won't last long on the skin. Also Luca Turin is equally disparaging about 'natural' perfumes ( the suggestion is you'll never rise above the hippy, headshop potion) unless you use aromamchemicals.

    Anyway, I'm getting ready to order aromachemicals with an emphasis on the top notes...

  2. #2
    gido's Avatar
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    Default Re: Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    of course there is! you just need to do some clever composition, make horizontal connections, use some 'fixatives'. i think you problems are starting at the bottom, not the top.

  3. #3
    orangeblossomspecial's Avatar
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    Default Re: Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    I use both essential oils and fragrance oils, for a lot of the notes I have both versions, but I pretty much stick to the fragrance oil version of citrus notes, both for the issue of longevity that you mentioned, but also because the citrus oils tend to have a shorter shelf life, also I am a little concerned about sensitization and phototoxicity.

    Maybe the sensitization and possible phototoxicity isn't such a big issue for any hypothetical future customer I might have someday, but if I'm working around this stuff a lot, I want to be careful just for myself, I think citrus oils don't really agree with me anyway.

    I really need to work on my use of citrus notes, it seems like when I use them in any way, they are all I can smell in the composition. Maybe it's just a question of letting things age longer before I make any decisions about them.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    I've achieved a long duration base with coupling fixatives also as a note you can get longer lasting citrus notes by establishing them in the heart note section and then complimenting in the head notes. also you don't have to use synthetics.

    On the issue of phototox, as long as you keep your citrus dilute you should have few if any problems.

  5. #5
    bshell's Avatar
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    Default Re: Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    Maybe it's your source, Spoombung? I've got an amazing sweet orange that lasts for an entire day, especially if not diluted much. Also some Litsea Cubeba that keeps on giving, to the point that I have to be careful with it. Sometimes a good Frankincense can be used to pull the citrus along for longer. However, if you want lasting citrus you do need to get some Aldehyde C9 Nonyl, and Hydroxycitronellal, among others. Frankly, I like the way citrus leaves the stage after 10 or 20 minutes and lets some other smells come out. This gives a perfume dimensionality and development. Otherwise if the citrus stays all the way to the end, you have a linear perfume, which is also OK if that's what you want.

  6. #6
    Spoombung's Avatar
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    Default Re: Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    Quote Originally Posted by bshell View Post
    Maybe it's your source, Spoombung? I've got an amazing sweet orange that lasts for an entire day, especially if not diluted much. Also some Litsea Cubeba that keeps on giving, to the point that I have to be careful with it. Sometimes a good Frankincense can be used to pull the citrus along for longer. However, if you want lasting citrus you do need to get some Aldehyde C9 Nonyl, and Hydroxycitronellal, among others. Frankly, I like the way citrus leaves the stage after 10 or 20 minutes and lets some other smells come out. This gives a perfume dimensionality and development. Otherwise if the citrus stays all the way to the end, you have a linear perfume, which is also OK if that's what you want.
    Many thanks for the tips and advice, bshell

  7. #7

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    Default Re: Is there any point in buying citrus essential oils?

    Quote Originally Posted by Spoombung View Post
    Many thanks for the tips and advice, bshell
    Yes, you will definitely want some of the shorter aldehydes if you want refreshing citrus notes; without them, the citrus smell can be very unimpressive. The C9 and C10 aldehydes can work wonders. Just be careful with these; you need just tiny quantities (you are best to use them at about 1% dilution).

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