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Thread: Best vetiver

  1. #61

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    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    I thought about this thread today, trying to articulate why I liked it so much. What I'm glad scentemental touched on was the notion fragrances are often designed with different ends in mind. In the case of Lanvin Vetyver, it was obviously intended to be a discrete and more subtle fragrance - not a bold sillage monster. As scentemental points out, the fact that it was intended as a subtle fragrance without a super-strong distinctive vetiver note doesn't make it a "bad vetiver fragrance", rather it is what it is.

    Everyone looks for something different in a fragrance, but too often people criticize fragrances for being what they are supposed to be because they aren't what the critic hoped they would be. For example, some fragrances are designed to be skin scents - while someone may not like skin scents, it doesn't make sense to pan such fragrance for not having good sillage if it was obviously designed not to have sillage. The first fragrance that comes to mind it Vanille Galante, which is a floral with a vanilla 'flavor', not a bold SDV-type vanilla. It's certainly one thing to not like it, but to criticize it for not being another SDV just doesn't make sense. What everyone seeks in fragrance is unique to them, therefore to judge a fragrance for what it's NOT, instead of what it IS, isn't particularly helpful.

    Again, I'm glad for scentemental's excellent analysis and I'm thankful to have learned so much about the construction of vetiver fragrances.
    Last edited by bbBD; 9th March 2009 at 01:56 AM.

  2. #62

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver


    My heartfelt thanks to all those who took the time to respond to this post. I appreciate your comments, and they make me feel that there is a place for such post here on Basenotes. I am thinking of follow up threads in the same manner on rose and on sandalwood.


    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Well said Scentemental, and this para in particular I find intriguing (and I have seen you make this point before). It's related to what I was asking in my "What is perfumery?" thread which sank without a trace http://community.basenotes.net/showt...ight=perfumery
    Yes, I noticed that post zztopp, and the reason I didn't reply to it is that I like to answer such questions with particulars as I am wont to do in my posts and, as you rightly note, I do here, rather than in generalities; although, I would have liked to have seen and would still like to see both kinds of responses to such a worthwhile thread.

    Quote Originally Posted by Renato View Post
    Interesting your observations on Lanvin's Vetyver - which I've always thought an odd scent because of the numerous timers I've sprayed on heaps of it, and wondered where the vetiver is. Yes, I do notice it some time later, but it certainly isn't what one would expect of a scent labelled with vetiver/vetyver on it.

    Any thoughts on the much maligned Azzaro Pure Vetiver, whiich only a handful seem to like around here? I've always thought of it as a vetiver version of Chrome.
    Renato
    Well, Renato, I thought I explained that in my post, that is about just how present the vetiver is and in what manner or depending on how you look at it how present it isn't and in what manner it isn't entirely present. If you read bbBD's second post to this thread, he has understood my reasoning and seems to be able to accept that idea that Lanvin Vetyver is as valid a vetiver fragrance as another other. I also suggest that you get your hands on a sample of Vetiverol, a key component of vetiver and the main vetiver component in this fragrance. You might then recognized that subtle but real vetiver qualities of this fragrance all the more.

    I actually like the "much maligned Azzaro Pure Vetiver" quite a bit. It's a very self-conscious and ironic twist on the notion of a "pure" vetiver. The name, of course, Azzaro Pure Vetiver, is, therefore, ironic. Perhaps I can explain it this way. It's like those Andy Warhol paintings, where Warhol takes an iconic image (a Campbell's soup can or a portrait of Marilyn Monroe) and then does a series of reproductions with various garish colors infusing the original. The garishness, the clearly tricked up quality of the reproduction has the effect of bringing the original into sharper focus with the derivative work, but at the same time giving the derivative work a new found respect because of the very ability to make us look at commonplace things anew. This is how I think of Azzaro Pure Vetiver. It a highly conceptualized vetiver fragrance. It's a garish, vibrantly synthetic green interpretation of the non existent pure vetiver note, and I think your observation that it's a vetiver version of Chrome is an astute one. For what it's worth, the perfumer behind Azzaro Pure Vetiver, Raphaël Haury, is one of my favorite perfumers and a most original perfumer at that. He is also the perfumer behind two very innovative fragrances--and favorite fragrances of mine--I have a very high regard for, Rodier Gourmandise (1999) and Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge (2002). He is definitely someone to keep an eye on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Indie_Guy View Post
    After reading this thread yesterday, I wore Lanvin Vetyver to reassess my opinion of it. After a half hour, I started to get a lot of vetiver out of it. And it was different from most vetivers. Really good, actually. Once the air freshener topnotes start to break up, it starts to feel very natural and works very well in melding with the wearer's skin.
    I have to admit I do have trouble with the opening minute or two of the top notes, and you are correct in characterizing it as having airfreshner like topnotes. I think that discordancy can be explained as the Calone with its great diffusive capability carrying the sharp herbal and spice elements from the heart notes into the top notes well before they've had time to lose that initial sharpness so characteristic of herbal and spice notes, but once this harsh unwelcoming opening settles (a lot less sooner for me that for you it seems), this is really an extraordinarily elegant fragrance with a subtle distinctiveness that, if given a chance and recognized, will completely change one's perception of the fragrance. I am glad yours has changed. Lanvin Vetyver deserves a wider following. I have enough of it and the ancillary products to last me two lifetimes. How could I resist when Scentiments was selling 3.4 oz spray tester bottles for $12.00 at one point.

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    I thought about this thread today, trying to articulate why I liked it so much. What I'm glad scentemental touched on was the notion fragrances are often designed with different ends in mind. In the case of Lanvin Vetyver, it was obviously intended to be a discrete and more subtle fragrance - not a bold sillage monster. As scentemental points out, the fact that it was intended as a subtle fragrance without a super-strong distinctive vetiver note doesn't make it a "bad vetiver fragrance", rather it is what it is.

    Everyone looks for something different in a fragrance, but too often people criticize fragrances for being what they are supposed to be because they aren't what the critic hoped they would be. For example, some fragrances are designed to be skin scents - while someone may not like skin scents, it doesn't make sense to pan such fragrance for not having good sillage if it was obviously designed not to have sillage. The first fragrance that comes to mind it Vanille Galante, which is a floral with a vanilla 'flavor', not a bold SDV-type vanilla. It's certainly one thing to not like it, but to criticize it for not being another SDV just doesn't make sense. What everyone seeks in fragrance is unique to them, therefore to judge a fragrance for what it's NOT, instead of what it IS, isn't particularly helpful.

    Again, I'm glad for scentemental's excellent analysis and I'm thankful to have learned so much about the construction of vetiver fragrances.
    bbBD, you have understood the import of my post so essentially and so completely and the fact that you took the time to explain it so well and so elegantly is great thanks, indeed, from you to me. Please accept my thanks too.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 9th March 2009 at 04:56 PM.

  3. #63
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    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post

    Well, Renato, I thought I explained that in my post, that is about just how present the vetiver is and in what manner or depending on how you look at it how present it isn't and in what manner it isn't entirely present. If you read bbBD's second post to this thread, he has understood my reasoning and seems to be able to accept that idea that Lanvin Vetyver is as valid a vetiver fragrance as another other. I also suggest that you get your hands on a sample of Vetiverol, a key component of vetiver and the main vetiver component in this fragrance. You might then recognized that subtle but real vetiver qualities of this fragrance all the more.

    I actually like the "much maligned Azzaro Pure Vetiver" quite a bit. It's a very self-conscious and ironic twist on the notion of a "pure" vetiver. The name, of course, Azzaro Pure Vetiver, is, therefore, ironic. Perhaps I can explain it this way. It's like those Andy Warhol paintings, where Warhol takes an iconic image (a Campbell's soup can or a portrait of Marilyn Monroe) and then does a series of reproductions with various garish colors infusing the original. The garishness, the clearly tricked up quality of the reproduction has the effect of bringing the original into sharper focus with the derivative work, but at the same time giving the derivative work a new found respect because of the very ability to make us look at commonplace things anew. This is how I think of Azzaro Pure Vetiver. It a high conceptualized vetiver fragrance. It's a garish, vibrantly synthetic green interpretation of the non existent pure vetiver note, and I think your observation that it's a vetiver version of Chrome is an astute one. For what it's worth, the perfumer behind Azzaro Pure Vetiver, Raphaël Haury, is one of my favorite perfumers and a most original perfumer at that. He is also the perfumer behind two very innovative fragrances--and favorite fragrances of mine--I have a very high regard for, Rodier Gourmandise (1999) and Parfums 06130 Yuzu Rouge (2002). He is definitely someone to keep an eye on.



    scentemental[/COLOR]
    Thanks for your most informative response. I don't dispute your contention that it's a valid vetiver scent, I just suspect that many people don't see it as valid - it's been extremely heavily discounted down here from just a couple of months after it's release - despite its being a very versatile and wearable scent.

    Your description of Pure Vetiver is remarkable - I'd never have come up with it, but it is so accurate.

    It's interesting to contrast the understated Lanvin Vetyver with the almost over the top Azzaro Pure Vetiver.
    Renato

  4. #64

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    what I'd like to know is whether le labo vetiver has anything to do with vetiver

    I have to apologize for not actually reading too much of the post but I'm too farsighted it's actually too practically difficult to read that much text at this point size and leading... I get lost and I get a headache!

  5. #65

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by heartlessnotes View Post
    what I'd like to know is whether le labo vetiver has anything to do with vetiver

    I have to apologize for not actually reading too much of the post but I'm too farsighted it's actually too practically difficult to read that much text at this point size and leading... I get lost and I get a headache!
    copy & paste into word and increase the size - believe me it is worth it. You will learn that your question cannot be answered in any simple way.
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  6. #66

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    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by heartlessnotes
    what I'd like to know is whether le labo vetiver has anything to do with vetiver

    I have to apologize for not actually reading too much of the post but I'm too farsighted it's actually too practically difficult to read that much text at this point size and leading... I get lost and I get a headache!
    The post is very much worth reading and will answer your question. There's most definitely vetiver in Le Labo Vetiver 46.... even if it's not the dominant note. Many if not most Le Labo fragrances have titles that don't represent the dominant note (Patchouli 24, for example).

  7. #67

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    First of all a big "thank you" to scentemental for making us realise that there is a lot more to perfumes than what is actually perceived by the nose. And another one for making us want to learn even more about the subtleties of perfumery.
    As a general comment, I would like to add that the way we perceive scents (and all senses in general) is highly subjective. In our discussions we often tend to forget that. When two people smell the same perfume they form two different opinions probably because they get different nerve stimulations. Unlike the eye or the ear which have one or two types of nerve endings, the nose has a tens of thousands of different types of nerve endings, each one responding to different molecules. In fact the scientists who proved that the human body devotes 10% of its genetic material for the coding of olfactory nerve receptors won the Nobel prize a couple of years ago. !0% just for one job is enormous! There is a thread in this forum explaining how some people are anosmic to some types of substances present in the musc. And then some people are anosmic to others musc components. The combinations are endless. And although the differences might be fine they are amplified by the fact that smell is the sense that is most closely related to evoking feelings and memories. And this is a well known fact. On top of that add personal taste and possibly skin chemistry. It is like starting from a tree trunc which branches out to form a massive canopy.
    So let us all keep in mind that as much as we enjoy talking about fragrances everything that we describe, or try to describe, is something extremely personal and most probably unique. Any opinion is not meant to offend anyone, unless it does so explicitely.

  8. #68

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    ok, I will, cause it seems to be that le labo vetiver is to vetiver what le labo patch is to patch

  9. #69

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    If you're using Firefox, you can quickly and easily increase text size in your browser itself. Apple-+ on a Mac, not sure on a PC.


    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    copy & paste into word and increase the size - believe me it is worth it. You will learn that your question cannot be answered in any simple way.

  10. #70

    Default Best vetiver

    What is your favourite vetiver fragrance and why is it better compared to the many others?

  11. #71

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Lots (probably hundreds) of other threads like this. Search for best/favorite vetiver.

    My personal favorites: Guerlain Vetiver (cheerful and citrusy, with a tobacco backbone), Chanel Sycomore (elegant), and Lalique Encre Noire (dark and brooding).
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  12. #72
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Guerlain Vetiver EDC <---- best light vetiver
    Profumum Fumidus <----- as close to pure vetiver as it gets.
    Offsite Sales - Updated June7th

    Vintage Dia, Vetiver Dry, Angel parfum, Opium parfum for Sale:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/215962

  13. #73

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Vetiver de Puig ($19.99) is better than Guerlain Vetiver because it doesn't have the tobacco note but has the same amount of vetiver. I just got it and people were complimenting me left and right yesterday. I tried the Guerlain for 2 days, then sold it on eBay. It smells like vetiver + ashtray.
    Last edited by Spray; 1st March 2010 at 04:11 PM.

  14. #74
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    My favorite vetiver fragrance so far - I have yet to find a "holy grail" vetiver - is Vetiver Extraordinaire. It's an interesting combo of deep and fresh, strong grassy yet airy and earthy at the same time.

  15. #75

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    My favorite vetiver fragrance so far - I have yet to find a "holy grail" vetiver - is Vetiver Extraordinaire. It's an interesting combo of deep and fresh, strong grassy yet airy and earthy at the same time.
    What do they mean when they say it's 25% vetiver?

  16. #76

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    This thread may interest you:
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/172...ents-added!%29
    My favorites are Hermes Vetiver Tonka, Jalaine's Vetiver oil, Onda, Chanel Sycomore, Tauer Vetiver Dance, Guerlain Vetiver pour Elle, TF Grey Vetiver and Armani Prive Vetiver Babylone. I dislike vetivers that smell "burnt".

    Here are reviews of some other fragrances written by Martin Chung. He is a former eBay seller who passed away and is very much missed. Before that happened, I wrote to him and asked his permission to reprint his vetiver reviews on the internet. He agreed as long as I gave credit, using the following language:

    All descriptions are written and described firsthand by eBay seller: parallax442 / ebay store: Liquid Art. Descriptions are the opinion of author and are not provided by the fragrance manufacturer unless specifically implied. Copyright parallax442

    These are copied and presented here with the express written permission of the author.

    ANNICK GOUTAL - VETIVER - EDT
    Dry / Woody. Opens with a sharp camphor note that is remindful of both the ocean and the forest. Hints of oakmoss and cedar mellow this perfume into an almost mildew-like state (not a bad thing). The best way that I can describe this is a beautiful girl's leather shoes after a romantic stroll in a damp forest. Main complimentary note: Leather

    AZZARO – PURE VETIVER – EDT
    Musky / Citrus. Easily the most brutish vetiver in this collection. A common musk note found in many men’s designer fragrances (Eternity, Yohji, Miyake) can be detected immediately and does not let go for it’s duration. Main complimentary note: Grapefruit

    CARLO CORINTO - VETYVER - EDT
    Smoky / Citrus. A buttery smokehouse flavor. After 30 minutes, this wears off and leaves a velvety and slightly oily grass. Topped with bergamot and lemon, Main complimentary note: Oak

    CARVEN - VETIVER - EDT
    Herbal / Citrus. Originally released in 1957, this top-heavy classic by Carven has a very short life. An immediate blast of lemon, spice, and lavender passes quickly into a delicate oakmoss base. Perfect for someone who doesn’t want to smell like something for more than 5 minutes. Main complimentary note: Coriander

    CASWELL-MASSEY - VETIVER - COLOGNE
    Herbal / Floral. Exceedingly delicate. A subdued citrus note with almond overtones supported from underneath by sandalwood and rosewood. A very pretty and soft interpretation of vetiver. Main complimentary note: Heliotrope

    COMME DES GARCONS - VETTIVERU - EDC
    Bright / Citrus. Surprisingly deep for an Eau de Cologne. In fact, as an eau de cologne, this perfume is capable of subtle hints of flavor that the others lack. The most balanced fragrance of Comme des Garcons' hard to get Series 4, the short-lived citrus and pepper in the top note blooms into an intimate and delicate green. Main complimentary note: Lemon

    COMPTOIR SUD PACIFIQUE - VETYVER HAITI - EDT
    Sweet / Woody. The surprisingly pleasant combination of vanilla and vetiver. Sweet, but not overly so, the creamy and unique accord brings a direction that none of the other vetiver perfumes possess. Main complimentary note: Vanilla

    CREED - BAYRHUM VETIVER - EDT
    Sweet / Herbal. This phenomenally rare fragrance was introduced to me by a friend and connoiseur. As far as I know, it is discontinued and was never released in the USA. Creed blends clove, bergamot, and evergreen to create a scent that perfectly captures the essence of the holiday season. Invite a dashing and well-dressed pirate to your table at Christmas, and this is what he will be wearing. Main complimentary note: Laurel

    CREED - ORIGINAL VETIVER - EDP
    Clean / Citrus. Incredibly hard to get and only available at their Avenue Pierre de Serbie boutique in Paris, this part of Creed's Millesime line is the cleanest vetiver in this collection. Soapy and perfect for after a shower, Creed's interpretation is almost childlike in it's purity. After an initial release of musk, this evolves into a sweet and long-lasting fragrance that is stunning in it's brightness. True to their heritage, this perfume is a perfect blend of both French and English. Truly a top class perfume from the third oldest perfume house in the world. Main complimentary note: Lilac

    DEMETER – VETIVER – COLOGNE
    Sweet / Spicy. An interesting version of vetiver which juxtaposes the grass against a background of toffee-like musk. Spicy and slightly dry with overtones of burnt spun sugar. Odder still, this fragrance takes on a soapy quality after it has dried. Main complimentary note: Caramel

    DIFFERENT COMPANY – BOIS D'IRIS – EDT
    Floral / Woody. While this fragrance is not marketed as a vetiver scent, it contains copious amounts of the grass and presents it with a feel that is unique in this collection. A gorgeous Tuscan iris blends perfectly with the vetiver for a doughy and floral complexion. Main complimentary note: Iris

    ETRO – VETIVER – COLOGNE
    Spicy / Woody. A smoky and dry vetiver that is bold, yet surprisingly free of extraneous sweetness. This fragrance possesses a bitter, burnt sugar quality that reminds me of a handful of young grass blended into a cup of espresso. Main complimentary note: Tobacco

    FRAGONARD – VETIVER – EDT
    Citrus / Woody. A citrus vetiver with evergreen overtones. Buttery, smoky, and soapy flavors prevail in a vetiver fragrance that is not unusual in itself, but is composed of many unusual elements. Main complimentary note: Pine

    FREDERIC MALLE – VETIVER EXTRAORDINAIRE
    Spicy / Woody. This phenomenally dry composition by Dominique Ropion is a classic study in effectively spotlighting a particular ingredient. Scant quantities of bergamot and bitter orange reveal, yet do not mask the hidden spiciness of the Haitian vetiver. After drydown, becomes rather reminiscent of a freshly-sharpened pencil. Additional notes of nutmeg, sandalwood and patchouli. Main complimentary note: Pink Pepper

    GENDARME – V – COLOGNE
    Clean / Woody. V for Vetiver. A very clean, yet bracing fragrance with a healthy base of civet, tonka, and of course, vetiver. Gendarme fragrances are bright, transparent and are composed of light florals. Although this perfume is the earthiest of their line, it is still pure Gendarme. Main complimentary note: Ylang-Ylang

    GUERLAIN – VETIVER – EDT
    Citrus / Woody. This is where everyone should begin their journey into vetiver fragrances. Introduced in 1959, this is the yardstick by which all other vetivers are compared. A paradox… fresh, yet deep; sharp, yet soft. A perfect blend of citrus, spice and tobacco. Main complimentary note: Lemon

    HISTOIRES DE PARFUMS – VETIVER TRADITIONNELLE - EDC
    Sweet / Woody. A beautiful rendition that shows off a creamy balance of woods, vanilla, and citrus. While a tad sweeter than many others in this collection, the grass does not hesitate to shine through and reveal it's depth. Main complimentary note: Petitgrain

    I PROFUMI DI FIRENZE – FRESCO DI VETIVER - EDP
    Musky / Citrus. Heavier than other citrus vetivers due to the Sicilian lemon (a bit edgier than other lemons). An fragrance with elegant musky and soapy overtones. Main complimentary note: Sicilian lemon

    JO MALONE – BLACK VETYVER CAFÉ - COLOGNE
    Spicy / Woody. Rich and warm in character, the dominant spices and woods make this a well-balanced cologne indeed. Unlike other vetivers, the grassy note is slightly muted and does not take the complete spotlight. Frankincense and sequoia bark add weight to this mysterious cologne. Main complimentary note: Coffee

    JO MALONE – VETYVER – COLOGNE
    Sweet / Citrus. Very characteristic of Jo Malone’s single note interpretations, this one is sweet, wet and bright. Beautiful in it’s simplicity. It’s hard to decide if this is a citrus-tempered vetiver or a vetiver-tempered citrus. Main complimentary note: Bigarade Orange

    LANVIN – VETYVER – EDT
    Musky / Citrus. Redesigned and a completely different perfume from their 1964-1980 vetiver issue. This fragrance is a slow starter. After the citrus burns off, the warmth of the copious musk and woods bring a dimension that takes patience to discover. Thyme, pimento, juniper, lime, bergamot. Main complimentary note: Nutmeg

    L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR – VETIVER – EDT
    Citrus / Woody. This perfume is a journey of the senses. Unfortunately rare and no longer exported to the USA, this perfect composition by L’Artisan shows a rare wood note at the top (most likely rosewood) which gives way only when the sandalwood in the base takes over. L’Artisan is well-known for the quality of their ingredients and this is readily apparent in all stages of this perfume’s life. Main complimentary note: Bergamot

    L’OCCITANE – VETYVER – EDT
    Herbal / Citrus. Very distinctive. By blending vetiver with the mintiness of geranium and the pungency of rosemary, L’Occitane has created an impressive and unusual mix. Cedar, cypress, and patchouli anchor this most interesting interpretation of vetiver. Main complimentary note: Geranium

    LORENZO VILLORESI – VETIVER – EDT
    Herbal / Woody. Creamy, green and distinctively earthy. Imagine a path of vetiver grass bordered by an herbal hedge maze of rosemary, bay, sage, lavender, and possibly mint. Powerful and rich tones of cedar, cypress and incense add a very smoky aura to an already dizzying blend. Main complimentary note: Eucalyptus

    MAITRE PARFUMEUR ET GANTIER – ROUTE DU VETIVER – EDT
    Herbal / Woody. Arguably, the truest vetiver in this collection. This vetiver is animalic, leathery, woody, and as deep as a well. Touches of blackcurrant and jasmine are virtually undetectable and perfectly composed. Main complimentary note: Cedar

    MARK BIRLEY – FOR MEN – EDT
    Spicy / Woody. A peppery and woody fragrance loaded with base notes. The natural feel of dry grass and musk compose this elegant perfume. Mandarin and bergamot at the top burn off quickly resulting in an intellectual and reserved fragrance. Main complimentary note: Violet
    PUIG – VETIVER DE PUIG – EDT
    Citrus / Herbal. OK… at the beginning, I thought… I have smelled this before. However, after 10 minutes, mildew, musk, amber and pepper bloom to assemble a very natural pheromonal scent. Main complimentary note: Oakmoss

    ROGER &amp; GALLET – VETYVER – EDC
    Spicy / Citrus. Created in 1976. Happy and uplifting. An intense citrus opening that simply disappears after 5 minutes. Stage 2: spices and woods arrive to create a slightly conventional, yet quite pleasant vetiver. Main complimentary note: Mandarin

    SANTA MARIA NOVELLA – VETIVER – EDC
    Herbal / Woody. Similar to Annick Goutal at the start, but in a short while, a BIG fat rose arrives to make this perfume unusual in placing a dominant floral next to the grass. Other notes: mint, sage. Main complimentary note: Rose

    SERGE LUTENS – VETIVER ORIENTAL – EDT
    Dry / Oriental. Available only in Paris as part of the Shiseido non-export line, Serge Lutens has envisioned a sprig of vetiver grass growing out of a bottle of Tocade by Rochas. The most abstract perfume in this set. Powdery florals, subtle citrus, and the classic oriental accord of musk / sandalwood. Barely noticeable touches of vanilla and oakmoss peek out after drydown. Main complimentary note: Aldehyde
    Last edited by socalwoman; 17th May 2010 at 09:35 PM.

  17. #77

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Thank you all for the suggestions. I have a list I can sample now!

  18. #78

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by socalwoman View Post
    Here are reviews of some other fragrances written by Martin Chung.
    Wow, socalwoman! Thanks for posting these reviews by Mr. Chung. This is very useful information.
    Snarky is as snarky does.

  19. #79
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    My favorite is Fragonard Vetiver. Not necessarily better than others.

  20. #80
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by socalwoman View Post
    This thread may interest you:
    Here are reviews of some other fragrances written by Martin Chung.
    Super post! There was there a time when Creed Original Vetiver was "incredibly hard to get"? Fascinating.

  21. #81
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    My favorite vetiver fragrance so far - I have yet to find a "holy grail" vetiver - is Vetiver Extraordinaire. It's an interesting combo of deep and fresh, strong grassy yet airy and earthy at the same time.
    +1. As much as I love Guerlain Vetiver, this one is fantastic.

  22. #82
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    For me it begins and ends with Guerlain--vintage if you can get it. I also like some "offbeat" vetivers like a Different Company's Sel de Vetiver and Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver. My favorite use of the vetiver note, however, is Creed's Baie de Geneivre---by a long shot!

  23. #83

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    this is a really tough question as I myself am still trying to find the answer
    I have tried these so far
    Guerlain Vetiver (couldn't stand it)
    Lanvin Vetyver (not bad at all, just longevity sucks)
    Encre Noir
    Givenchy Vetyver
    Sycomore
    Floris Vetyver
    and I still have a sample of VE I need to try
    non of these to me really stands out too much, but I am getting sel de vetyver soon, I think that might do it for me

    BUT, out of all these, I enjoyed Encre the most
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  24. #84

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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Vetyver..Carlo Corinto..Vetiver with the most compelling accords.
    Vetiver..Etro..Raw earthy,woody accords well blended with Vetiver.
    Vetiver Hombre...Adolfo Dominguez..Soft,and a tad soapy. Wears well in hotter weather.
    Vetiver..Annick Goutal..Salty sea like accord, I think blended a tad better than Sel de Vetiver.
    Vetiver..Guerlain..2000 formulation..Less Tobacco, and a bit more Citrus than the Vintage.
    Vetiver..L'Artisan Parfumeur..A more sheer Vetiver, supporting notes,do not detract from the Vetiver,woody notes present throughout whole progression.
    Vetyver..Vintage L'Occitane..More in tune with Vetiver, than woody supporting notes.
    Mazzolari Vetyver, Outstanding depth, damn near perfect accords from top to bottom.
    Route Du Vetiver..Vintage MPG..Strong earthy Vetiver..
    Racine..Vintage.. MPG..Nice balance between Citrus, and Vetiver..Light Vetiver scent..
    Vetiver..SMN..The most brash Vetiver I have ever encountered.Bone dry, mixed with light woods.
    Vetyver Lanvin (new)..Lanvin..Once again showing the lighter side of the Vetiver note.
    Vettiveru..CdG..Wears just like it is, a cologne,but has a little more depth than lets say R&G,so spray away with this one.

    These are a few of my favorites,and these I probably enjoy wearing the most of all the Vetivers I own, and wear.
    Last edited by Ron199; 1st March 2010 at 07:44 PM.
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  25. #85

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Best Vetiver? Favorate Vetiver! The latter reveals itself when You are tired of looking around. Just to find, that there are still many others left to try.

    Etro - very smokey, dark, dry, burnt candy is a good comparison, the newer version EDT instead of EDC seems to have a more pronounced top to middle of citrus, pricey
    Carven - the older version is a bit fresh, clean, minty, not to much of a vetiver as I know, but light minded and still lasting 3..4 hours, uncomplicated, will complement Your toothpaste occasionally (mind a shy kiss good by on a first date ;-)
    L.T. Piver - austere, spicey, sharp and manly
    Malle - sexy, delicate bitter, bit artsy, bit weak, pricey
    Givenchy - sex in the bottle, first it spawns between citrus and nutty, then nutty, creamy, woody smokey, earthy, vibrant on a male tone

    What I should never have tried is Grey V. by Tom Ford and Encre N. by Lalique. Both are heavy in Iso E Super. The latter is a synthetic fixative that replaces the classic fixative vetiver (along with oakmoss) in many newer compositions. To combine vetiver with its synthetic replacement is a bit odd.

  26. #86

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    I can't say which is the best one out there, but I can say which is the best vetiver I've ever (wordplay) smelled and that is Creed Original Vetiver.
    Great works are performed, not by strength, but by perseverance.

  27. #87
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Vetiver Tonka...Smells like no other VETIVER...and VE by MALLE! The best to ever do it!

  28. #88

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    I'm gonna go with Encre Noire. It's dark and strong, but that underlying sense of "freshness" keeps it from being too overwhelming. Especially as it develops

  29. #89
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    From all the one that I have tried Encre Noire and Guerlain Vetiver are my favorite.
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  30. #90
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    My favorite is Givenchy Vetyver.
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  31. #91

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Random thoughts on three of my favorite vetivers:

    Givenchy Vetyver - exceptionally classy, gentlemanly, understated; well-behaved, nutty vetiver with a touch of citrus and coriander; slight celery vibe; dry sandalwood base; addictive; often leaves me wanting more; what a shame that it's not available as an EdP.

    Creed Original Vetiver
    - clean, bright and green; citrus, ginger, woody vetiver; the most "natural" smelling vetiver I know; not light - very dense, oily; fantastic longevity; the frag I'd choose if I could have only one.

    Floris Vetiver
    - captivating and challenging; quirky and anachronistic; goes through phases of powder, spice, 'aftershave', bitter, sweet, and woody, musky vetiver; most complex - almost cerebral - vetiver I've tried, with outstanding longevity to match.
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  32. #92

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental is great. It is a typical Lutens oriental, but the vetiver is still very sharp and green.

    Veto Kern's Onda is great too. It is an incredibly animalic leathery fragrance, but the strong vetiver note is its backbone. It's fairly expensive as it is an extrait, but she is releasing an EdP version soon.
    Last edited by sean-dt; 1st March 2010 at 11:30 PM.

  33. #93

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by cannotavoidtrite View Post
    What is your favourite vetiver fragrance and why is it better compared to the many others?
    To tell you the truth it depends on the day. Today I wore Black Cafe Vetiver by Jo Malone because I wanted a sweeter take on vetiver. Two days ago it was Guerlain's Vetiver that took my fancy. But there is one vetiver that I always enjoy; CdG Vettiveru. This is just a very well made fragrance that touches the right balance between the citrusy, herbal, and earthy aspects of vetiver.
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  34. #94
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Mine are Encre Noire by Lalique and Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company.

  35. #95

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver has a weeeird off note that smells to me like frying burger grease.

    My favorite is probably Sycomore. The drawback being that on some peoples' skin, it can take on an almost 'barbecue' note.

    I love Givenchy's Vetyver, but it is (a) impossible to find, and (b) has terrible longevity.

    As for Guerlain's Vetiver, I prefer the "Frozen/Eau Glacee" flanker. It replaces the (to me) incongruous soapy/tobacco notes with a splash of menthol. Cleaner and nicer.

  36. #96
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Guerlain's Vetiver. It tought me so much of what I know.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  37. #97

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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Etro Vetiver was the vetiver that made me love vetiver, Annick Goutal Vétiver is my "I've crossed oceans of time to find you" vetiver.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  38. #98
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    Etro Vetiver was the vetiver that made me love vetiver, Annick Goutal Vétiver is my "I've crossed oceans of time to find you" vetiver.
    Ha! When I saw you'd posted to this thread I said to myself "she's written Etro Vetiver."

    Blast though, only half right.
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  39. #99
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Guerlain's Vetiver Extreme - I like the soapiness; mellows out the harshness of the vetiver

    Givenchy Vetyver - my first vetiver (1979)

    I have come to realise that i am not really a vetiver fan.
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  40. #100
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    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by Basteri View Post
    From all the one that I have tried Encre Noire and Guerlain Vetiver are my favorite.
    I'm with you, Basteri.

    I probably enjoy trying scents in the vetiver genre more than any other. I find it interesting how versatile it is.

  41. #101

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    I'll put this in this thread as i didnt want to start a new one..

    Vetiver... Whats the big deal with it? Is it just that i notice it more these days, or has it become very fashionable latley?

    Either way, ive tried Guerlain, Creed, and now Tom FOrd (grey vetiver) but i just dont seem to get it..

    Am i missing something (im sure i am!!! but i will keep trying )

  42. #102

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Quote Originally Posted by Fragman View Post
    I'll put this in this thread as i didnt want to start a new one..

    Vetiver... Whats the big deal with it? Is it just that i notice it more these days, or has it become very fashionable latley?

    Either way, ive tried Guerlain, Creed, and now Tom FOrd (grey vetiver) but i just dont seem to get it..

    Am i missing something (im sure i am!!! but i will keep trying )
    Craze, 'just tried Jaques Fath Green Water. The so called 'juniper berry' in Green Water is such a delight ... . An other twist on vetiver. Vetiver is a more or less technical part of so many vintage formulations as a fixative, paired with oakmoss. The sensual impression of that cool Green Water isn't so much that of luxury or refinement but - just fun. The faint vetiver I get easily, but it is more of a smooth playground for the very rest of the pack in there. It attracts the smelling to 'look' further.

    May be You miss that fun with Tom Fords heavy Grey V. GV pretends to be austere, having volume, substantial quality, justifying the price tag. Like those heavy wines from cheap vendors that appeal certain consumers. In my system the chemical 'Iso E Super' may be blamed for the effect of to much smoothness, thickness in GV. It's all a bit like pickles in aspic, a jelly-O.

  43. #103
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    Thumbs up Re: Best vetiver

    Encre noire, vetiver extraordinaire, route du vetiver
    Have I told you about the scent of jasmine? Have I spoken about the smell of the sea? The earth is scented. And I perfume myself to enhance what I am. That's why I can not wear a perfume that bothers me. Perfuming is an instinctive wisdom. And like all art, it requires some knowledge of yourself..."
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  44. #104

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    Vetiver Extraordinaire is really the only vetiver that I can stand. For some reason I generally don't like the note much when it's too prominent in a fragrance. I'm not sure why this one works somehow better than the others, but I love it. Even Encre Noir, admittedly a close cousin and loads cheaper, doesn't excite me like the Malle. Strange.

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  45. #105

    Default Re: Best vetiver

    I second LT Piver's Vetiver - Sharper and spicier than Givenchy, which is great for people who don't love the nutty variety. Piver's is very bright and green, then spicy and finally a beautiful lavendar/sandalwood that reminds of me a French candle my mom used to own. You cannot get this for $50 USD (22.5 pounds) anymore on the internet. It's all sold for about $100 (55 pounds). Whatever, it was worth it to me.
    Givenchy is definitely the smoothest of the lot. A bit too sweet and nutty for me, but I still love it.
    Vetiver Extraordinaire, if applied too heavily, can smell like baby wipes, and it's ridiculously expensive.
    Encre Noire is nice (everyone I know loves it and girls really dig it), wet and kind of sour smokey vetiver; it smells much better as sillage than it does when you sniff up close - so don't be fooled by its pungency when you stick your nose to your wrist and cringe.
    Etro - I like the burning candy reference - I see it as a dry maple syrup/campfire combination - that's an image for you. It's also a bit curry-like, just a warning.
    Guerlain smells like old man's aftershave and the tobacco makes it all musty.
    Paul Smith Story - VERY cheap and really not bad, if not terribly interesting. Smells like musk and clean laundry all mixed together.
    Lorenzo Villoresi Vetiver - The opening for me is overwhelming - burning wood and grass. When it settles, I get dry, herbal vetiver and a nice labdanum note - which does make it smell like sweaty skin and thus gives it some sex appeal.
    Route du Vetiver - To me, nostril burning black current - like those throat lozenges that make you wretch. I can't. Maybe it's the reformulation, but unless I am sure of that, no way jorge.
    Creed - Hyperclean and soapy. Like Mugler Cologne - Addictive but not exciting like Tetrus.
    Terre d'Hermes - has vetiver, but I would not call it a "vetiver." I would call it a warm forest in spring time after a sunshower.
    Last edited by jr8399; 3rd March 2010 at 12:28 AM.

  46. #106

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    Quote Originally Posted by FragranceFan255 View Post
    I had the 'pleasure' of having a sample of essential oil of vetiver thinned a bit with jojoba oil so I could put it on my skin safely. Assuming that the jojoba was odorless, I wasn't impressed. I remember actually recoiling back in shock when I sniffed it from the vial. The association that popped into my mind (and strangely, my stepson as well) was that scent left on your hand after catching fireflies. That weird musk, or whatever it is, they secrete. Either way, I prefer my vetiver well blended with other things thank you. I do love the stuff in the right composition.
    Ah, firefly pheromone... I wonder what exotic scent that will claim that as an ingredient! ... wonder if stinkbugs leave the same scent? ( think that's not pheromone but a defensive chemical... might also be useful in the world of scent :-)

    The blending makes the difference.
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  47. #107
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    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    Quote Originally Posted by Prince Barry View Post
    Vetiver is herbacious with an earthy/green smell.
    What he said, but what I've found is every frag treatment of vetiver is a bit different.

  48. #108

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    I've just bought myself a vetiver root 'loofah' for the bath, so soon I will not only be able to learn a new note, but get squeaky clean into the bargain!

  49. #109

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    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    There is no TRUE Vetiver smell. All Vetiver's are true smelling,and I said that because the smell of the Vetiver root derives from the region of the world where it was grown. Climate, soil conditions, and so forth. So in essence any Vetiver that you smell is a true Vetiver smell. Now you can get into methods of how it was distilled, and how much was used in the blending with the other notes in that fragrance. Cuban cigars are not considered the best in the world simply because they come from Cuba. Climate, and soil conditions play a large roll in that cigar being considered by some to be the best in the world, and the same can be said about Vetiver.IMHO
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  50. #110

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    Thanks for asking; its often confusing for newer testers like us. That said, which cologne has the best use of vetiver? Guerlain's very popular as I've heard

  51. #111

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    I can agree that it is not a floral and more herbal. Very fresh and clean smelling.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  52. #112

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    To my nose, extremely resinous, almost coniferous and incense-like

  53. #113

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    'Clean' vetiver (Kenzoair) - smells a bit like hay mixed with a light incense.
    'Damp' vetiver (Encre Noir) - smells like damp moss mixed with hay and herbs
    'Smooth' vetiver (Vetiver Extraordinaire) - smells like hay but with a sort of 'nutty' smell and without the sharpness.

    These are the three most vetiver-prominent scents I've worn, M7 also has vetiver but I found it was more of an oud / oriental scent than a vetiver based scent on my skin.
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  54. #114

    Default Re: What does a Vetiver smell like?

    Quote Originally Posted by JMang View Post
    Thanks for asking; its often confusing for newer testers like us. That said, which cologne has the best use of vetiver? Guerlain's very popular as I've heard
    Personal preference, in order of priority:

    Roger Gallet Vetyver: clean, seems natural to me, very nice.

    Creed Vetiver [the 1948 or so version]: barbershoppy, but in a way I really love. I recently compared a fresh bottle of this to my probably-old bottle. The fresh one was much better, with a very pleasant citrus angle.

    Guerlain Vetiver: more complex than other vetivers I own. Seems more dry, more woody to me. A favorite of BN for a good reason.

    Creed Original Vetiver: so green. . . nice, complex, but wow, so green. . .

  55. #115
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    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Bumping this post because...well...it's one of my favorites.

  56. #116
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    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Thanks Mike, I missed this the first time around. And thanks for the excellent thoughts scentemental.

  57. #117

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    creed vetiver is my favorite vetiver, the new one i am not a fan of but the first one is nice. the others are too synthetic smelling to me.

  58. #118
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    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    I really enjoyed your post Scentemental, as many other basenotes members pointed out too. But this left me with a doubt. If you have different vetiver sources that has different details and accents in their scents, intensity and complexity, how can you segregate good vetivers from bad ones or mislabeled ones? I`m asking you this because I`ve saw many LT reviews pointing that some vetiver fragrances doesn`t smell like vetiver. But how can you be certain that a vetiver labeled fragrance isn`t really a vetiver fragrance only because my nose doesn`t recognize that type of vetiver as related to the group of vetivers that I`ve already known before? And a curiosity, how many different vetivers types are used in fragrances? It`s possible to split them in "vetiver families"?

  59. #119

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Four types of vetiver fragrances is interesting. But still - shouldn`t we make good comprehensive vetiver "families"?
    I prefer something alike French Perfumer Committee classification, i.e.
    Citrus Vetiver,
    Flower Vetiver,
    Spicy Vetiver,
    Marine Vetiver,
    Gourmand Vetiver,
    Woody Vetiver, etc.

    As for not vetiver - Lanvin is vetiver for my nose, but Le Labo is not.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  60. #120

    Default Re: Vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver is not vetiver

    Thanks Mike for reviving this thread. I love reading such great writing and this is one of my favorites too.
    RM

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