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  1. #61

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 6, 2010 ★★★ CHYPRES

    hey- I'm wearing Tiare this weekend tool!! Just got it, and want to wear it one more time before reviewing. This is my favorite category, and as I type i'm wearing vintage pure Mitsouko, layered with the modern EDP.

    I'm always on the lookout for new chypres, and right now Sonoma Scent Studio has my attention with their lovely Winter woods (a woody chypre), and Ensolleile, a nice sunny, floral chypre.
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  2. #62

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 6, 2010 ★★★ CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by BayKAT View Post
    hey- I'm wearing Tiare this weekend tool!! Just got it, and want to wear it one more time before reviewing...
    BayKat, I'll look forward to hearing what you think! I wanted to love Tiare, but I'm finding that I just admire it. The problem for me could be the lily of the valley that I'm picking up (though that note isn't listed). I'm learning that LOTV is a note that doesn't suit me, somehow. I do like the citrus opening, however!

  3. #63

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 6, 2010 ★★★ CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    I would think of Bois des Iles as an Oriental (it has a preponderance of wood & spice).
    #31 Rue Cambon is called a pink chypre. I think of pink champagne.
    I thought of BdI as oriental, as well, but how do some woods make something chypre and others oriental? And how does the pink come into play? I'm doing a side-by-side of BdI & 31 RC right now, and the former feels a bit like the latter through a very soft-focus lens. I prefer 31 RC, as it is more assertive all around. They must share some notes, though, because they smell so similar to me! BdI is creamier, but both seem to have a vanilla/amber/sandalwood thing.

  4. #64

    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 6, 2010 ★★★ CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    Leesee, Nostalgie, isn't it a shame? There is something really wonderful about JLS (and other chypres), but if one doesn't have sugar skin, the bitter/mildew aspect drones incessantly. Haven't tried the edp. Someone needs to invent a (non-fruity) sweeter chypre (with real oak moss, please) . Montale named a fragrance Vanille Chypre, but from all accounts read, it's obvious they didn't deliver on the name.

    NOTE TO SELF: Figure out what you need to layer with chypres to sweeten perfectly.
    Have you tried many oriental or patchouli heavy chypres (Tabu, Replique, Diva, Baghari come to mind)? Or layering with a soft amber? Some chypres feel so dry and bitter that I'll choke, but they usually soften (19 and Bandit do this on me). Others are wet and sweet and honeyed moss. Baghari for one is so sugary (mainly at the top) I barely recognize it as a chypre.
    I offer you perfume,
    More for its pleasure than for yours;
    You perfume perfume.

    --Anonymous Ancient Greek Love Lyric

  5. #65
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 6, 2010 ★★★ CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunnyfunny View Post
    I thought of BdI as oriental, as well, but how do some woods make something chypre and others oriental? And how does the pink come into play? I'm doing a side-by-side of BdI & 31 RC right now, and the former feels a bit like the latter through a very soft-focus lens. I prefer 31 RC, as it is more assertive all around. They must share some notes, though, because they smell so similar to me! BdI is creamier, but both seem to have a vanilla/amber/sandalwood thing.
    I'm no expert. I think the "pink" designation is because there is no oakmoss. Instead, while the effect is still tangy, there is a lighter approach and in this case, the juice is actually pink. It's not a green effect as with most chypres, though.

    It's possible that BdI shares some notes with #31. I haven't done any comparisons. They are both Chanel, so that probably accounts for a lot of it.

    It's just my opinion, but I think a 'real' chypre needs some sharp citrus or grass notes such as galbanum, vetiver, bergamot; etc. and oakmoss or a good simulation is a must. Most of the current formulations that are being called chypres really aren't. They have too many oriental woods & spices to qualify. That tends too push them into a sweet zone rather than the green/tangy area.
    Last edited by kumquat; 8th March 2010 at 03:42 PM.

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