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  1. #1
    N_Tesla's Avatar
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    Lightbulb The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I have tried hundreds of fragrances and have come to the conclusion that there is but one monarch of the fragrance world and that fragrance is Mitsouko; immortal and the one constant in a world of change, usually for the worse. Mitsouko represents one of the great accomplishments of the fragrance industry. There have been reformulations to be sure but, not so grave as to rob us of Mitsouko's beauty and dignity. I continually stray, as do we all, looking for the holy grail fragrance, left only to appreciate better what Mitsouko means to me. There can only be one.
    Last edited by N_Tesla; 12th March 2010 at 08:19 AM.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    N_Tesla- I do know what you mean - i also wander off on my holy grail search but I always come home to Mitsouko. It's simply great perfume no matter what. When everything else fails, Mitsouko will see you through ,the strong Grand Dame she is.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  3. #3

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I couldn't agree more. It is most certainly the greatest. But, interestingly, in my daily choices, I don't favor it over other loves. I need to feel a certain stamina, wholeness to choose Mitsouko.

  4. #4

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    La Reine peut-ętre ....
    But then - who is King ?
    It seems that Mitsouko has been crowned Queen by Basenote's men mainly.
    It would be interesting to dig deeper: did this shape up before The Guide was out
    or later ?

    (but... never mind, it's not really an industry topic anyway!)
    Last edited by narcus; 14th March 2010 at 03:45 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  5. #5

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I agree with all of you, but why is Mitsouko the greatest? What makes it so much better than all the others? Why have all those amazingly talented perfumers never achieved something comparable?

  6. #6

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Mitsouko was supposed to be Guerlain's answer to Coty's Chypre. Chypre is no more whilst Mitsouko has survived. It is a fabulous fragrance and one that is always mentioned amongst the greats. Whether it is now as it was when first created is a moot point; highly unlikely. Seems to me that all of the classics have been modified over the years for various reasons. Recently that change has become worrying. But that is another topic

  7. #7

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Mitsouko is good but for me the Monarch of all fragrances is Cocoa Mademoiselle by Chanel. It's like a fresh breeze of air. I can not imagine my party wear without it

  8. #8
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I like Mitsuoko but wouldn't put it in the top spot. In fact I don't really know which fragrance if any one at all I would call the Monarch.

    (Butterfly by Avon fits well too).
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  9. #9

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I think one of the amazing things about Mitsouko for me is that it has such a richness and depth of scent that it comes full circle in a way, looping you around in a fragrant unending circle, which is unlike most scents, which is often a straight, one-way trip from top to base and that's it, so-to-speak. That may sound a bit nonsensical, but when you smell it, it really does take you round and round and doesn't spin you off the merry-go-round, if you know what I mean.

  10. #10

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Everyone's favorite is their "monarch" of perfume.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nymphaea View Post
    I think one of the amazing things about Mitsouko for me is that it has such a richness and depth of scent that it comes full circle in a way, looping you around in a fragrant unending circle, which is unlike most scents, which is often a straight, one-way trip from top to base and that's it, so-to-speak. That may sound a bit nonsensical, but when you smell it, it really does take you round and round and doesn't spin you off the merry-go-round, if you know what I mean.
    Pretty well said, and I agree somewhat. I find Mitsouko extremely versatile yet retains enough intrigue/mystery to sustain the interest.

  12. #12

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by kbe View Post
    ...(Butterfly by Avon fits well too).
    <snicker>

    (Not to discount Mitsouko, which is a lovely fragrance.)

  13. #13

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    Pretty well said, and I agree somewhat. I find Mitsouko extremely versatile yet retains enough intrigue/mystery to sustain the interest.
    Are we talking about the older version or the newer one? I've got the newer version (the one with the synthetic oak moss) and it just doesn't feel like it could be what everyone raves about. The top notes are beautiful and it drysdown into a lovely peach/chypre mode that does have a certain richness and movement to it but . . .there's nothing at the bottom. It's like buying a CD only to find that the producers left out the bass and drums; the melody is nice but it really needs structure to keep it alive and a chypre without oak moss seems pretty thin.

    Do you get any resinous/oak moss notes in the new Mitsuoko? Perhaps I'm just anosmic to these synthetics.
    Last edited by Zizanioides; 13th March 2010 at 10:56 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I tend to agree with Galamb, as to me, some of my fave frags definitely represent the "regency council" of my wardrobe

  15. #15

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    N_Tesla, do you realize how many Mitsouko tribute threads you have written?

    Here are a few:

    (1) There can only be ONE. (dated 16 June 2009). You wrote:

    There can only be one ..... ultimate fragrance that transcends all other fragrances and has for many years. It is my opinion that the holy grail is MITSOUKO. There is less and less doubt every day. If ever there was a scent that is greater than the sum of it's parts it is Mitsouko. Of course there are those who say my opinion is formed with some measure of prejudice, to this assertion I simply say, bunk!

    (2) There can only be one. Devotion upheld. (dated 27 October 2009) You wrote:

    In all of the time I have been involved in fragrance I find my devotion to Mitsouko still abides. I still look for each new experience but, I am coming to the conclusion that I already know the holy grail of fragrance. All else seems to be contrast and diversion ultimately reinforcing devotion to this fragrance. What, I wonder, are your experiences with a signature scent? May your path in fragrance be as pleasant my bon vivant friends.

    (3) Those whom the gods love die young. (dated 15 November 2009). You wrote:

    Ode to Mitsouko,

    When I was one and twenty I thought I would live a short life, hopefully glorious, unique and memorable. Now I am fifty and nine and have stopped to smell the roses more often lately and enjoy parfums and incense. What store have the gods for one who lives long and yet is unfulfilled by the lack of the ultimate fragrance? Many questions yet unanswered and as for glory, well, all glory is fleeting. The dust that comes from this decaying mortal coil may someday nourish the flowers that someone else stops to smell.


    apologies to Alfred Houseman for whom, I have great respect.


    (4) A Fragrance For All Seasons. (dated 15 November 2009). You wrote:

    Mitsouko celebrates it's 90th birthday this year as arguably the definition of chyrpe fragrance. It's come a long way baby! Happy Birthday Mitsouko.

    (5) All-Time Best Classic. (dated 4 October 2009). You wrote:

    I have tried many, many Classics and have come to the conclusion that The All-time Classic fragrance is MITSOUKO! Which, I plan to take with me when I expire. Hey! At least I am consistent.

    Okay, I will stop there.

    I understand that you adore Mitsouko. Forgive me for saying it, but I feel like I am being evangelized. As if Mitsouko was the centerpiece in a religion. I feel not in the least bit offended, but a touch uneasy when I read them.

    I am not complaining about the threads, I just wanted to express how they make me feel inside.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    N_Tesla congratulations are in order. Few of us are allowed to enjoy that amount of passion about anything.
    'Those who grow too big for their pants will be exposed in the end'--anon

  17. #17
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zizanioides View Post
    Are we talking about the older version or the newer one? I've got the newer version (the one with the synthetic oak moss) and it just doesn't feel like it could be what everyone raves about.
    You could well be right. My bottle's from 1973. The new version wears a little thin on the drydown...but the top and body still smell great.

    Btw, N_Tesla, what does one do when one has finally found his HG of scents?

  18. #18

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by scentsitivity View Post
    Okay, I will stop there.

    I understand that you adore Mitsouko. Forgive me for saying it, but I feel like I am being evangelized. As if Mitsouko was the centerpiece in a religion. I feel not in the least bit offended, but a touch uneasy when I read them.

    I am not complaining about the threads, I just wanted to express how they make me feel inside.
    I'll second this. One runs out of answers for "Tesla loves Mitsouko" threads after a while, even though there's nothing inherently wrong with them...

  19. #19

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post
    I have tried hundreds of fragrances ... as do we all, looking for the holy grail fragrance, left only to appreciate better what Mitsouko means to me. There can only be one.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/246...actory-Stimuli

    In the thread linked above You dared to quest the motivation behind the search for the holy scent. I gave Mitsouko as an example. It is not meant to be functional as:: a signature / to smell just good / to show hygiene / ... . So Mitsouko made me wonder what perfumery could be besides some luxury show off thing besides some show off at least I am washed thing.

    But it isn't that special in the row of quite interesting ideas along the development of the handicraft in focus. There are many other quite alluring inventions. L.T. Piver 'Le Trefle in Carnat' (1889) was the first perfume ever to use synthetic oils - as far as I could read in the net. Guerlain 'Jicky'? For sure not Mitsouko. What about pre-synthetic scents? What about contemporary pure-synthetic ones? If You can't appreciate Tommy Girl then Mitsouko would remain a secret. That's no mystery to me.

    Buy the way: Jicky along with Mitsouko used quite modern advertising plots. A sad love story of Monsieur Guerlain, oh poor boy, and some hyper romantic pre/post-WW-1 lethal to death love story again. May be that for Guerlain could supersede some at least as innovative companies. 'Know, it's business, ain't it?
    Last edited by merry.waters; 14th March 2010 at 08:52 PM.

  20. #20

    Smile Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I would agree that Mitsouko is the leader among chypres; it really has no equal and there is something wonderfully primal about it; I prefer to wear it close to the skin because I find its less volatile sillage most beautiful.

    Who would I embrace the Duchess of Chypres? Hmmmm!...........Chanel 19?

    It's not the scent that recalls the person; it's the person who recalls the scent
    LaNose

  21. #21
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Interesting that, as a Guerlain fan, very few of their fragrances (men, women, unisex) do I like ALL of the formulations. However, Mitsouko is one. I like the EdC, EdT, EdP, parfum, vintage, new...

    I'm not sure if this conveys the 'word' monarch to me, but it makes it pretty darn special.

  22. #22
    N_Tesla's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    My humble apologies to those who find my passion for Mitsouko annoying, it was not my intention to be anoying I assure you, but to share my thoughts and provide a platform for open discussion. No further mention will be made out of respect for your wishes. As to the inquiry of what you do when you have found your holy grail of fragrance; I simply go on enjoying the continued understanding that of fragrance, as in other things in life, the more you know, the more you know how little you know, but never lose the passion for knowlege and experience. All can be taken from you but not your integrity or your passion.
    Last edited by N_Tesla; 15th March 2010 at 12:55 AM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    N-Test: You have nothing to apologize for. No passion; no life!

  24. #24

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post
    No further mention will be made out of respect for your wishes.
    Please continue =) If you can't post threads raving about your favorite fragrances on basenotes then where can you post them?

  25. #25

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I think the point being made here is that there's no need for multiple threads stating practically the same thing. Not that N_Tesla should stop talking about Mitsouko.

    Why not pick one of the threads and update that one instead of opening up new, very similar threads? Or rhapsodize a little bit about Mitsouko when you post your sotd?
    Last edited by tott; 15th March 2010 at 07:20 AM.

  26. #26

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by tott View Post
    Why not pick one of the threads and update that one instead of opening up new, very similar threads?
    Why do you care? Seriously. Some guy got on me when I started a thread saying the same thing.

    First off, there are a zillion threads here. If the thread has dropped out of the top 25 or so, it's dead. So the gentleman starts a new thread and keeps the place moving. Let people post without worrying about dulpicates or similar threads.

    10,000 years from now no one will remember this.

  27. #27

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    DEMON, I don't care particularly much to be honest. You seem to be a lot more passionate than me on this subject.
    Last edited by tott; 15th March 2010 at 12:50 PM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Interesting that, as a Guerlain fan, very few of their fragrances (men, women, unisex) do I like ALL of the formulations. However, Mitsouko is one. I like the EdC, EdT, EdP, parfum, vintage, new...

    I'm not sure if this conveys the 'word' monarch to me, but it makes it pretty darn special.
    Your post touches on my chief problem with declaring one fragrance to be the pinnacle of the art; perfumes don't exist as coherent artistic units in the same manner as books or music. "Mitsuoko's" legal existence is limited to its trade dress (packaging etc.) and trademarked name while its formula (the only thing most of of us care about) changes at the whim of LVMH'S perfumers and accounting department. It's the same with every classic perfume and almost every conversation about certain fragrances are predicated on the idea that we are all thinking of the identical perfume which is rarely the case (even more rarely now that IFRA mania has arrived).

    I have a passion for Bandit that mirrors N Tesla's love for Mitsuoko but it's a love of a very certain Bandit (an edt version of unknown year). I now possess five different versions of Bandit, some I love and one I dislike (the most recent Oak Moss free version), and they all possess similar features (galbanum leather-floral) but you wouldn't guess that they all come from bottles bearing the same names. If I named Bandit as my favorite frag for its brutal leathery galbanum and someone countered with their loathing for its spineless green-floral structure . . .we would both be talking about the same named perfume.

    When N Tesla calls Mitsuoko the monarch of fragrances I pull it out and smell a lovely peachy chypre that is missing its lower half and wonder what exactly he is talking about. How frustrating to hear wondrous reports of beauty and have no idea where to find the same.

  29. #29

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zizanioides View Post
    I have a passion for Bandit that mirrors N Tesla's love for Mitsuoko but it's a love of a very certain Bandit (an edt version of unknown year).
    And your best estimate of the year would be...?
    Or could you describe the bottle, please?
    I seem to share some of your passion.
    Last edited by narcus; 16th March 2010 at 11:14 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  30. #30

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    And your best estimate of the year would be...?
    Or could you describe the bottle, please?
    I seem to share some of your passion.
    Absolutely no idea =(
    It was a one ml decant from the Perfumed Court, just their basic Bandit EDT. Unfortunately it's not the Alfin versions (the gold capped, all upper cased label bottles), or at least not like the two of those I've bought.

    They list it as being the re-release from 1999, the only problem is that the current distributors for Robert Piguet categorically deny that any EDT version has been made since they acquired the rights to the Piguet line (96). I've emailed the TPC but they have no idea what the bottle looked like.

  31. #31
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    I am tickled by N_Tesla's recurring Lauding-Mitsouko threads; in fact, it always occur to me that newer members might be moved to actually smell an old classic based on his allegorical grandiosity and intemperate zeal, and that cannot be a bad thing!

    Of course, what's 'best' is totally subjective. I feel pretty much the same about 'Y' (in fact I think 'Y' and Coty Chypre both outclass Mitsouko.). Moreover, I have been inspired a time or two by N_Tesla's passion to start an "In Prostate Reverence of YSL Y" thread, to incite others to give it a try!

  32. #32

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Of course, what's 'best' is totally subjective. I feel pretty much the same about 'Y' (in fact I think 'Y' and Coty Chypre both outclass Mitsouko.). Moreover, I have been inspired a time or two by N_Tesla's passion to start an "In Prostate Reverence of YSL Y" thread, to incite others to give it a try!
    Just curious - have you tried Ayalitta, by Ayala Moriel? It's the closest "living" thing I've smelled to Coty chypre, only better to my nose ( richer, greener, more complex ).

    Sadly, I'm fairly chypre-promiscuous. Every time I try one and think "Oh, this is the most perfect, beautiful, balanced chypre around," I find another I love so much more! And promptly forget about the old.

  33. #33
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Just curious - have you tried Ayalitta, by Ayala Moriel? It's the closest "living" thing I've smelled to Coty chypre, only better to my nose ( richer, greener, more complex ).

    Sadly, I'm fairly chypre-promiscuous. Every time I try one and think "Oh, this is the most perfect, beautiful, balanced chypre around," I find another I love so much more! And promptly forget about the old.
    I have tried nothing by her; it's the house that is always next on my 'list' yet ends up being displaced! Now I am totally eager to try that one, though!

  34. #34
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    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    N_Tesla loves Mitsouko and so do I. It gives him pleasure, a simple ,harmless pleasure and I think Jacques Guerlain would be very happy to know his perfume has moved someone so much that it inspires him to write and talk about Mitsouko so much .

    Galamb -funny - I was just looking at Ayalitta on Ayala's website .I'll join you in the 'chypre- promiscuous club !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  35. #35

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    After sampling my vintage extrait that arrived today, I am gobsmacked at how different the vintage formula differs from the modern one.
    Perhaps this extrait has suffered only a tiny bit with age (a very slight loss of peach/lavender), but there is a TON of oakmoss in the vintage! I don't know how I will be able to smell the current formula again.
    She is a Grand Dame indeed.

  36. #36

    Default Re: The Monarch of Fragrances.

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    N_Tesla loves Mitsouko and so do I. It gives him pleasure, a simple ,harmless pleasure and I think Jacques Guerlain would be very happy to know his perfume has moved someone so much that it inspires him to write and talk about Mitsouko so much .

    Galamb -funny - I was just looking at Ayalitta on Ayala's website .I'll join you in the 'chypre- promiscuous club !
    Ditto the funny... I need to stop being so 'cyphre-promiscuous' and enjoy all that I've got in my cabinet for a while. That is SO difficult to do... until I open the cabinet, breathe in, and say... ah... who's my love today? Ah... YOU'll do! :smile: Then later that day... the same thing happens again. And again in the evening... and again at night. Is there such thing as a 'cypre-nymphomaniac?'
    Actias luna's fragrance reviews | Now blogging with AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty at Il Mondo di Odore
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