There are some scents that can be inflected but never really submerged in a mix; they always seem to stick out as a dominant note. Vetiver is one of these, as is the Montale house oud accord.
My question is about another accord of this type that I smell in a lot of different fragrances. Can anyone help me identify it?
Here are the clues:
It's in a lot of "fresh" fragrances
and is featured prominently in Cool Water, GIT, Silver Mountain Water, Millesime Imperial, Paco Rabanne XS, and most recently, Serge Lutens L'Eau. Based on reading reviews, Himalaya is another one that probably has this accord, although I haven't smelled it personally.
I would describe it succinctly as "orange creamsicle scented cleaning product
". In particular, it has an little bit of the edge of the active ingredient ("Super N Concentrate") in Nilium
, a janitorial odor counteractant that you've doubtless smelled in a few restrooms -- sweetish, initially pleasant, a bit bubblegummy, quickly becomes overwhelming and cloying in large doses.
Another description that makes me think someone is smelling the same thing as me: "The top is that orange aromachemical that smells nice and juicy for a minute, before it goes all artificial
and Tang-smelling. Then that dreadful flint/chlorine/metal note
that's singlehandedly killed the last 10 years of mens' designer parfumery comes in and takes a massive cheap-smelling dump over the whole thing." (rogalal in this thread
, regarding L'Eau)
This accord is very "present" without being pungent
. It projects
quite a ways without giving the impression of being a heavy scent.
It lasts a long time
. You smell it right out of the bottle, and you continue to smell it to the tail end of the drydown.
I had thought this might be either calone or dihyrdomyrcenol, since these seem to be regarded as the lynchpins of fresh/light/fruity perfumery. But the descriptions of these aroma chemicals that I've found don't quite mesh with my perceptions of the accord. Is it in fact one of these, or...