I forgot to mention Estee Lauder Private Collection (original).
Thread: Chypre Fishing
I hesitated to offer my suggestion only because it may come too late.
Trussardi for Women, the original one in the white bottle with the greyhound insignia.
It wasn't my training-bra chypre, because if you need training, you're not ready for chypre. But it was the one that molded me into a hopeless chypre addict. The closest comparison would be the Scherrer that is being loved to death in the messages above. Trussardi had the same vibe but not so whompingly green. Warmer, drier, and of course coming from the House of Trussardi ( a leather goods co.) it had a leathery element.
Unfortunately, the last bottle of it I purchased was a wreck. The bottle had been cheapened (the greyhound insignia was only stamped into the plastic of the bottle, rather than on its own little leather lozenge). The juice was like a fuzzy xerox copy. Sad, bad and it made me mad. If you ever see the edp for sale, throw your body over it until it's yours. You can be sure it's the real thing, because Trussardi switched to edt-only for this scent about 5 or 6 years ago.
I forgot to mention Estee Lauder Private Collection (original).
I am no expert on chypres, and you have tried all the Guerlains - but I still want to mention Parure...
And Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit and Armani Privé Éclat de Jasmine. One more traditional (and baaadly reviewed) is Chypre Oriental by Molinard.
"Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain
My swap thread
Has Apercu been reformulated?
NO. But I think it's discontinued. I'd get some quickly.
Last edited by Hillaire; 19th March 2010 at 10:51 PM.
Last edited by Haunani; 20th March 2010 at 01:59 AM.
I am going to concur by also suggesting Paloma Picasso.
The three that I replace on a regular basis are Mitsouko, Cristalle & Diorella. Please try Diorella...even the new version is a winner. I also like Colony by Patou, but this has been discontinued. You probably can get it on the net, though. The only drawback is that it lacks longevity. Discontinuing a fragrance that cannot be duplicated under the new restrictions is so much more honest than trying to sell an imposter to the unsuspecting buyer. (See my review of Odalisque by PDN) If you try Paloma Picasso, get the edt. The edp is a powerhouse, much like Trussardi, which has also been discontinued. Cuir by Lancome is a spectacular suede chypre. And Baghari is great, although it may have changed. My older bottle of the juice is an orange/floral chypre. I own & love all of these.
I see many recomending 1000... I find it very difficult to pull off (vintage or new one, still difficult), I imagine this perfume on a very eccentric woman, who dresses weird, something like... wearing traditional clothes from the place she grew in, no mather how elevated the circles she's in... not caring about social rules. Maybe being a party animal and smoking some wird pipe,traveling to weird places etc.
Anyway, I see this perfume on an extremely unconventional woman.
Very difficult to pull off...
"Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
Manfred: That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. " (Ice Age)
Jean-Louis Scherrer -- a beautiful spicy green chypre, relatively undiscovered and very inexpensive on the discounters. (Not to be confused with JLS 2, which is a heavy floriental, also good, but not a chypre.) Vintage "Y" by Yves St. Laurent. Once in a while a bottle of Coty's Chypre, the one for which the family was named, comes around on fleabay, and some decanters have it -- if you ever smell it you'll know what a chypre is supposed to be. "Diorella" (vintage if possible) if you're into leathers; "Miss Balmain," a floral leather, also inexpensive online. "Miss Dior" (vintage only) which is a green/floral chypre but does have that from-another-era about it. Rosine's "Folie de Rose," a great rose chypre, or "K" by Krizia (which I believe is discontinued, but can be had on fleabay.) The most essential ingredient is oakmoss, which has been banned in any significant amount in modern "chypres," so try and get the old ones. If there is a box, and the ingredient list features something like "alcohol, water, fragrance" then you have the vintage.
also at http://olfactarama.blogspot.com
Musings and random thoughts about the genie in the bottle
I don't see 1000 as a chypre at all, for the record; rather, to me, it's an aldehydic, like Vol de Nuit or Private Collection. I'd also classify Cialenga and Calandre thusly, as floral aldehydics. These distinctions become very difficult with the presence of the chypre three (patchouli, bergamot, and oakmoss) in Orientals and aldehydics, as well as with a ton of aldehydes sometimes seen in chypres!
Chanel 19 is the perfect example, not a chypre, but often misnamed one because of its notes. In fact, it's the paradigmatic aldehydic floral.
Last edited by Hillaire; 22nd March 2010 at 02:00 AM.
It sounds like many good ones have been mentioned. I would also try EL Jasmine White Moss.
Adding more:Newcomer U Ungaro Feverand Classical Diva by Ungaro.
Cabaret by Gres.John Varvatos for Women.
Last edited by sophi; 22nd March 2010 at 07:13 AM.
Oh!One more:Mauboussin By Mauboussin
I'll add Talisman and Quadrille since they haven't been mentioned, ssems like Balenciaga is worth checking out in it's entirety, as Rumba is also a fruity chypre.
It might be too late to get this one, I hope not. Aedes had a fragrance made by Molinard called Une Histoire De Chypre. It was created from a recipe found in the Molinard fragrance vaults. Turin/Sanchez panned it but I love it. It is rich, uber complex. It's also no longer on their web site.
I am not affiliated with Aedes, except as a customer. If you want to contact them, here's the # at 888-AEDES15. Ask for Robert (Karl or Miguel can help too) & tell them Christine sent you.
"Great art picks up where nature ends.”
- Marc Chagall
Haven't read through the whole thread... so sorry about being repetitive-
have you tried Givenchy III???
And... Jolie Madame?
Of course, you know Parfum de Peau de Claude Montana?
I also love Coriandre by Jean Couturier...
and Agent Provocateur from 2002.
Chypres are my fav category, too.
Love this thread! Ditto to so many chypres already mentioned---esp. Diorella, Aromatics Elixir and Odalisque. How about Bond's Chinatown? A bit like a recent take on Mitsouko. A dark but fruity chypre.
+1 on Numero Uno by Carthusia and Chanel pour Monsieur
Azuree for a serious early '60's-style green leather chypre, L'Temps d'Une Fete for a wonderfully fresh, rounded floral chypre, and AdP Profumo for the whole chypre and nothing but the chypre. Get the vintage if you can.
Last edited by Strollyourlobster; 29th March 2010 at 12:41 PM.
Have you tried anything from Trussardi like Donna or Donna Fresh???
LOVE IS BEST http://sophiloves.simplesite.com/429114763
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