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Thread: Chypre Fishing

  1. #1

    Default Chypre Fishing

    I love, and spare no expense, on chypres. I feel like I've gotten to a lot of the grand divas, but want to make sure and am hoping this community can steer me towards some I've missed and need to try.

    Here is what I've sampled, please make some suggestions if you see i've missed some worth trying:
    Guerlain: I've tried all, so don't need recs here.
    Caron: Bought all, so again no recs needed
    Chanel, Ormonde Jayne, Sonoma Scent, JHaG, Maison kurkdjian, parfumes de Rosine: Covered
    Nikki de St. phalle, Eau de soir, Y, Balmain, Cabochard - sniffed. More of the classics that i can't recall, sorry.

    What next? Thanks!!
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    You've covered some great territory so far.

    What about Patou's 1000? Have you tried that yet?

    And Carven's Ma Griffe? Probably so, but just in case you haven't, here it is. [Editing to add that I just saw your review on MG.]

    Long Lost Perfume's repro of Crepe de Chine is quite good, IMO. And well priced, too.

    MDCI's Enlèvement au Sérail is classified as an oriental, but it strikes me as more of a chypre. [Edit: I see you love MDCI's Promesse which means maybe you've tried EaS? and didn't like it as well?]

    Houbigant's Aperçu is another well done chypre.
    Last edited by VintageVogue; 19th March 2010 at 01:35 AM.

  3. #3
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Oh my!
    Please don't live without trying:

    Diva
    So Pretty
    Jil Sander 4
    Jil Sander Scent 79
    Gucci 3

    Odalisque by PdN


    PS: You have also tried The Party In Manhattan, and the Sisleys, n'est ce pas? .
    Last edited by Hillaire; 19th March 2010 at 01:13 AM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I love the classic mossy green and complex chypres from the 70s and 80s most of all, so I'll limit this to fragrances that are still available, (and I see Hillaire already mentioned the difficult to find favorite, Gucci 3 so I'll throw Givenchy III out there, too.) I consider all of these 4 or 5-Star fragrances.

    Clinique, Aromatics Elixir
    Estee Lauder, Azuree
    Ungaro, Diva
    Galanos, Galanos
    Halston, Halston
    J.L Scherrer, Scherrer
    Krizia, K de Krizia
    Estee Lauder, Knowing
    La Perla, La Perla
    Balmain, Miss Balmain
    Molyneux, Quartz
    Ralph Lauren, Safari
    YSL, Rive Gauche

    I know there are lots more, but these are my favorites, and the ones that I think of first when thinking about chypres.
    Last edited by Evangeline; 19th March 2010 at 01:58 AM. Reason: typos!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Hi, BayKat!

    You've already tried (or others have already recommended here) a lot of my favorite chypres. Don't be afraid to give some of those "cheapies" a try. Diva, Jean-Louis Scherrer and even Scherrer II are all amazing quality and very affordable. :-)

    Another niche house I can recommend for chypres is Ava Luxe. Her website indicates she's taking a vacation this month, but when the site comes back up in April, give her a try. I have tried and can recommend Film Noir and Biba from this line. (Plus a few other non-chypres.)

    Have you tried vintage Coriandre? Fendi?

    How about Agent Provocateur? That's a recent purchase for me and I just recommended it in another thread, guess it's been on my mind. Very nice scent!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Jean Louis Scherrer is one of my favorite chypres, I have the EdP. I'm glad it's getting a lot of love here. I think most of the stuff that's still available is full of oak moss. This will change soon, if it survives the reformulation blitz. I'm a big Diva fan, too.
    For something new, what about Jubilation 25?
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 19th March 2010 at 02:23 AM.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Jean Louis Scherrer is one of my favorite chypres, I have the EdP. I'm glad it's getting a lot of love here. I think most of the stuff that's still available is full of oak moss. This will change soon, if it survives the reformulation blitz.
    I agree - wonderful stuff! I have a couple of mini perfumes, the edp and the edt. The edt will do in a pinch, but the edp is just better....richer, as usual (of course the perfume is divine.) But I really need to back up my edp now as it seems to be disappearing quickly.
    Last edited by Evangeline; 19th March 2010 at 02:31 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Some great recommendations! I really like Teo Cabanel's Oha, so I am going to add that one to the list of recommendations. . . .

  9. #9

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    hehe.. i knew I'd forget some- ma Griffe (i own)- oha, miss balmain, la perla, Galena- yep, tried!

    Apercu, Rive Gauche, knowing I really want to try, plus so many others mentioned here. thank you so much!!
    (I'm currently wearing ormonde Woman, another very nice chypre)
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  10. #10

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Diva Diva Diva. I am such a fanboy of this scent. Azuree and Safari are also new loves.

    What about the oft miscategorized "masculine" chypres?: Chanel Antaeus and Pour Monsieur, Givenchy Gentleman, and Caron Yatagan leap to mind.
    I offer you perfume,
    More for its pleasure than for yours;
    You perfume perfume.

    --Anonymous Ancient Greek Love Lyric

  11. #11

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    YSL chypres !

    and...rose chypres seem to be another cathegory on their own, all detached from the rest of chypres. lol Here's... diva, knowing,L'arte di Gucci ... and... is cabaret a chypre too? smells like one.

    Almost all chypres smell ROSY to me. I just figured out that even the ysl- Y and rive gauche- I feel they're "serious artistic masterpieces" built around various roses cared by very skillful gardners.
    Last edited by w3pearl; 19th March 2010 at 05:01 PM.
    "Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
    Manfred: That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. " (Ice Age)

  12. #12

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Oh and don't leave out AdP Profumo!
    I offer you perfume,
    More for its pleasure than for yours;
    You perfume perfume.

    --Anonymous Ancient Greek Love Lyric

  13. #13

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I would add Colony by Jean Patou, one of my favorite chypres.
    Evenstar

  14. #14

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Pheromone for men by Miglin, once you get beyond the harsh "green" top notes, is a unisex chypre. I'm not a big chypre fan, but I like this one, I think because I don't find any "rough edges" in the drydown.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    +1 Profumo
    +1 1000 Jean Patou
    And Jubilation 25
    And The Party In Manhattan !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Rose chypres and chypres for men are catching my eye. I"ve tried Rose Barbare (Love it!). i'm not afraid of unisex, but stright up male scents have been off my radar, thanks!
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  17. #17
    Dependent sophi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Hi Baykat,
    You know i love chypres and i am on fishing myself.I have recently bought Gucci 3,nice classic one,and i have Jil Sanders 4 which is a bit fruity and nice for summer.I like Paloma Picasso perfume a lot ,i am searching for Miss Dior (old version) and one in my wanting list (best of classical)is Bandit by Piquet.
    Good Luck,
    Sophi

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Gucci by Gucci is a good 'new style' chypre ie. no oakmoss though they did a good job without it, I suppose. No rose but a sumptious pear accord.
    For rose - definitely Aromatics Elixir.
    Also + 1 for Agent Provocateur - feels like Aromatics Elixir's sibling.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 19th March 2010 at 05:30 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I'd add Sisley: Soir de Lune and Eau du Soir. Also, Ava Luxe...and Paloma Picasso edP...and Montana Parfum de Peau...and...and...

  20. #20

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    + 1 The Party in Manhattan -- a dirty, sweaty chypre chockfull of ambergris and oakmoss
    + 1 Envelement au Serail (sp?) -- Mitsouko with indoles galore

    and Que Sais Je by Jean Patou -- similiar to pre-formulation Mitsouko -- very dark, gloomy and FABULOUS!

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Rochas Femme ?
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Cialenga by Balenciaga is a gorgeous chypre! So very feminine. You can get a sample at The Perfumed Court.

    "Cialenga Parfum by Balenciaga is the perfect balance of woods spices & Cypres notes.Not sweet, not too acrid but slightly sharp. Notes of citrus, fruits, blackcurrant, greens/ rose, muguet, orris, clove, ylang ylang, jasmine/ vetiver, cedar, oakmoss, sandalwood"

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Try Numero Uno by Carthusia and/or Chanel Pour Monsieur (the original NOT the Concentree) by Chanel. Two fantastic masculine chypres that many women comfortably wear.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 19th March 2010 at 12:54 PM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    One of my favourite chypres is Tweed. It is a lovely straightforward feminine fragrance.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Guerlain Sous le Vent is my desert island chypre.

    Interesting frags that are often not thought of in this category--O de Lancome and Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte both have citrus-labdanum-moss combo, or a variation thereof that makes them quite chyprish.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I you love floral chypres, Amoureuse is a must-try, in my opinion. One of the best modern chypres I've tried, and my favorite of the last ten years or so. Non-traditional in it's top notes ( a very delicious tangerine-cardamon-tuberose accord ), but at the base it's a very classical chypre drydown in a transparent way. Despite the transparency it's by no means weak.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Quote Originally Posted by Antaeusintheair View Post
    Oh and don't leave out AdP Profumo!
    Yes, yes, yes! This is one of the great new, plummy chypres. Supposedly an update from a 1930s original. The pricing is outrageous, $220 for a 50ml EdP.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 19th March 2010 at 04:28 PM.

  28. #28
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Apercu rocks & is so under appreciated.
    Also, Cabochard,
    Balmain - Ivoire,
    Madame Rochas,
    Caleche,
    Lubin - Nuit de Longchamps,
    Floris - Edwardian Bouquet
    Patou - Normandie.
    Guerlain - Sous le Vent is one of the best.
    Last edited by kumquat; 19th March 2010 at 04:33 PM.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Has Apercu been reformulated, any one know? IN general, this is the problem with chypres- do you sample the vintage, or the modern. I think more than any other category this one has suffered from tweaking. :-(
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  30. #30
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I got an older bottle from the internet, I believe. I don't know the availability in the dept stores. I don't think it's that easy to find. Most of the bottles are probably original formula, I'm guessing, but I don't know.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Dear BayKAT,

    I hesitated to offer my suggestion only because it may come too late.

    Trussardi for Women, the original one in the white bottle with the greyhound insignia.

    It wasn't my training-bra chypre, because if you need training, you're not ready for chypre. But it was the one that molded me into a hopeless chypre addict. The closest comparison would be the Scherrer that is being loved to death in the messages above. Trussardi had the same vibe but not so whompingly green. Warmer, drier, and of course coming from the House of Trussardi ( a leather goods co.) it had a leathery element.

    Unfortunately, the last bottle of it I purchased was a wreck. The bottle had been cheapened (the greyhound insignia was only stamped into the plastic of the bottle, rather than on its own little leather lozenge). The juice was like a fuzzy xerox copy. Sad, bad and it made me mad. If you ever see the edp for sale, throw your body over it until it's yours. You can be sure it's the real thing, because Trussardi switched to edt-only for this scent about 5 or 6 years ago.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I forgot to mention Estee Lauder Private Collection (original).

  33. #33

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I am no expert on chypres, and you have tried all the Guerlains - but I still want to mention Parure...

    And Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit and Armani Privé Éclat de Jasmine. One more traditional (and baaadly reviewed) is Chypre Oriental by Molinard.
    "Wonderfully wild, eminently civilized" - Derby by Guerlain

    My swap thread

  34. #34
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Has Apercu been reformulated?

    NO. But I think it's discontinued. I'd get some quickly.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 19th March 2010 at 10:51 PM.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Quote Originally Posted by Antaeusintheair View Post
    Oh and don't leave out AdP Profumo!
    Heartily second this one! Beautiful!

    You've already tried two of my favorites, Y and Niki de Saint Phalle. Another one to consider is Paco Rabanne Calandre, an appealing green chypre. Oh, and some call Miller Harris Fleur de Sel a chypre. It's very special, IMO.
    Last edited by Haunani; 20th March 2010 at 01:59 AM.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Again, thanks to all and please add more for those who are 'lurking'. I'm creating a list for samples i'll order this spring.
    :-) Kari
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  37. #37
    Eva Pasco
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I am going to concur by also suggesting Paloma Picasso.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    The three that I replace on a regular basis are Mitsouko, Cristalle & Diorella. Please try Diorella...even the new version is a winner. I also like Colony by Patou, but this has been discontinued. You probably can get it on the net, though. The only drawback is that it lacks longevity. Discontinuing a fragrance that cannot be duplicated under the new restrictions is so much more honest than trying to sell an imposter to the unsuspecting buyer. (See my review of Odalisque by PDN) If you try Paloma Picasso, get the edt. The edp is a powerhouse, much like Trussardi, which has also been discontinued. Cuir by Lancome is a spectacular suede chypre. And Baghari is great, although it may have changed. My older bottle of the juice is an orange/floral chypre. I own & love all of these.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I see many recomending 1000... I find it very difficult to pull off (vintage or new one, still difficult), I imagine this perfume on a very eccentric woman, who dresses weird, something like... wearing traditional clothes from the place she grew in, no mather how elevated the circles she's in... not caring about social rules. Maybe being a party animal and smoking some wird pipe,traveling to weird places etc.

    Anyway, I see this perfume on an extremely unconventional woman.

    Very difficult to pull off...
    "Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
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  40. #40
    Olfacta's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Jean-Louis Scherrer -- a beautiful spicy green chypre, relatively undiscovered and very inexpensive on the discounters. (Not to be confused with JLS 2, which is a heavy floriental, also good, but not a chypre.) Vintage "Y" by Yves St. Laurent. Once in a while a bottle of Coty's Chypre, the one for which the family was named, comes around on fleabay, and some decanters have it -- if you ever smell it you'll know what a chypre is supposed to be. "Diorella" (vintage if possible) if you're into leathers; "Miss Balmain," a floral leather, also inexpensive online. "Miss Dior" (vintage only) which is a green/floral chypre but does have that from-another-era about it. Rosine's "Folie de Rose," a great rose chypre, or "K" by Krizia (which I believe is discontinued, but can be had on fleabay.) The most essential ingredient is oakmoss, which has been banned in any significant amount in modern "chypres," so try and get the old ones. If there is a box, and the ingredient list features something like "alcohol, water, fragrance" then you have the vintage.
    Olfacta
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    Musings and random thoughts about the genie in the bottle

  41. #41
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I don't see 1000 as a chypre at all, for the record; rather, to me, it's an aldehydic, like Vol de Nuit or Private Collection. I'd also classify Cialenga and Calandre thusly, as floral aldehydics. These distinctions become very difficult with the presence of the chypre three (patchouli, bergamot, and oakmoss) in Orientals and aldehydics, as well as with a ton of aldehydes sometimes seen in chypres!

    Chanel 19 is the perfect example, not a chypre, but often misnamed one because of its notes. In fact, it's the paradigmatic aldehydic floral.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 22nd March 2010 at 02:00 AM.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    It sounds like many good ones have been mentioned. I would also try EL Jasmine White Moss.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Also, Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'Une Fete.

  44. #44
    Dependent sophi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Adding more:Newcomer U Ungaro Feverand Classical Diva by Ungaro.
    Cabaret by Gres.John Varvatos for Women.
    Last edited by sophi; 22nd March 2010 at 07:13 AM.

  45. #45
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Oh!One more:Mauboussin By Mauboussin

  46. #46

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    I'll add Talisman and Quadrille since they haven't been mentioned, ssems like Balenciaga is worth checking out in it's entirety, as Rumba is also a fruity chypre.

  47. #47
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    It might be too late to get this one, I hope not. Aedes had a fragrance made by Molinard called Une Histoire De Chypre. It was created from a recipe found in the Molinard fragrance vaults. Turin/Sanchez panned it but I love it. It is rich, uber complex. It's also no longer on their web site.

    I am not affiliated with Aedes, except as a customer. If you want to contact them, here's the # at 888-AEDES15. Ask for Robert (Karl or Miguel can help too) & tell them Christine sent you.
    RHM's Vintage, Rare & Pretty Darn Good items on offer: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/380...old-Pour-Femme

  48. #48
    Un profumo affettuoso
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Haven't read through the whole thread... so sorry about being repetitive-
    have you tried Givenchy III???

    And... Jolie Madame?
    Of course, you know Parfum de Peau de Claude Montana?

    I also love Coriandre by Jean Couturier...

    and Agent Provocateur from 2002.

    Chypres are my fav category, too.

  49. #49
    Un profumo affettuoso
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Quote Originally Posted by Minou2 View Post
    It sounds like many good ones have been mentioned. I would also try EL Jasmine White Moss.
    Indeed! One of my recent acquisitions! Wonderful!

  50. #50
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Love this thread! Ditto to so many chypres already mentioned---esp. Diorella, Aromatics Elixir and Odalisque. How about Bond's Chinatown? A bit like a recent take on Mitsouko. A dark but fruity chypre.
    jtd

  51. #51

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Chinatown is on my list!! i've got bond on my radar for this summer, looking forward to it!
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  52. #52

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    +1 on Numero Uno by Carthusia and Chanel pour Monsieur

  53. #53

    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Azuree for a serious early '60's-style green leather chypre, L'Temps d'Une Fete for a wonderfully fresh, rounded floral chypre, and AdP Profumo for the whole chypre and nothing but the chypre. Get the vintage if you can.
    Last edited by Strollyourlobster; 29th March 2010 at 12:41 PM.

  54. #54
    Dependent sophi's Avatar
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    Default Re: Chypre Fishing

    Have you tried anything from Trussardi like Donna or Donna Fresh???
    LOVE IS BEST
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