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  1. #1

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    Red face I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Well, after bashing Iso E Super for a year or so, here I am apologizing. It's not so bad. I actually kind of enjoy it. I especially appreciate how it's often used instead of musk, allowing perfumers to create ethereal and transparent scents without feeling too thin or lifeless (in the absence of musk).

    After all this time, even after smelling Iso E Super in isolation, I never realized that Terre d'Hermes employs more than one cedar/wood substitute. In fact, the reason TdH bothers my nose isn't the Iso E Super at all - it's some of the other flint+wood+mineral notes that are too scratchy for me in combination.

    While certain fragrances, like Molecule 01 by Escentric Molecules, are just ridiculous and smell like household bleach, Iso E Super is a necessary aroma-chemical in modern perfumery, and it is often used in artistic and complementing ways, playing a necessary part in many of my favorite fragrances. In fact, I've realized that I love, and have no aversion to, certain Iso E Super-laden fragrances. In fact I LOVE a lot of fragrances that contain a hefty dose of Iso E Super, such as: Kyoto, 2MAN, Jaisalmer, Bois de Violette, Jubilation XXV, Declaration, Straight to Heaven etc, etc. Other fragrances, like Light Blue for Women, do smell too chemically to my nose, but this is due to a combination of notes, and not Iso E Super in isolation).

    In conclusion, I admit that Iso E Super should not be synonymous with a "bad word" or "cheap cedar substitute." Most of the time, it's not even used as a cedar substitute, but in fact in combination with natural cedar (or other synthetic substitutes), to give it a certain edge.

    Anyway, I'm sorry for tainting your reputation Iso E Super. All apologies. Consider me a newly converted advocate.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    I'm okay with ISO E Super.

    I'm neutral towards both synthetic aromachemicals and naturals. What matters most is how they're used.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Oh dear, this could get interesting...

  4. #4
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Oh dear, this could get interesting...
    Indeed!
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  5. #5

    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Oh dear, this could get interesting...
    LoL!

    Supposedly Bois de Violette has a 65% of iso e super...i could care less and it's my favorite out of the bois series
    Last edited by scent; 20th March 2010 at 02:46 PM.

  6. #6

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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    It's not so bad. I actually kind of enjoy it
    Me too
    I'm a colognosaurus. Rawr!

  7. #7

    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    Well, after bashing Iso E Super for a year or so, here I am apologizing. It's not so bad. I actually kind of enjoy it. I especially appreciate how it's often used ...
    I skin tested L.T. Piver Reve D'or (released 1889!) today in Dusseldorf (home of KRAFTWERK). It mostly relies on an aroma chemical that once was pretty knew. I can't name it for the moment. It has a cinnamon smell to it. So, each time has it's heroes. As usual with Piver the fragrance is darn strong. But it remains pleasent for at least my nose. The fore mentioned aroma is blended into the whole composition as a prime indegrient, but there is plenty of room left for other smells too.

    For my nose the Iso E Super acts as a stark blender to other ingredients, when used in contemporary dosage. It's like watching a film through frosted glas. Like eating aspic. Iso E Super is a big smoothener in that it generates a uniform 'texture' to a scent as a whole. In so far Iso E Super brings other qualities into a scent than former synthetics. I do not like it.

  8. #8
    mrclmind's Avatar
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by merry.waters View Post
    I do not like it.
    Why merry.waters! I'm surprised to hear you say that!!
    Last edited by mrclmind; 20th March 2010 at 03:33 PM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    i guess every leading (read: respected) perfumers employ this aromachemical...including genius's like Mr. Ellena.. i guess, we are not so educated about the effects ISO E "actually" has on a scent.

    btw bro, i "love" Molecule 01
    Last edited by jenson; 20th March 2010 at 04:13 PM.

  10. #10

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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    In my personal experience, ISO Super E has been an easily identifiable ingredient in the scents I've smelled, for the most part. I've just gotten tired of it I guess. I practically do not consider it any special or slight -- usage is the key [as is with any other aromachemical] and when combined with a variety of other aromachemicals, it's transmutation combinations are possibly easily identified by the perfumer, master perfumer or not, even before employment into the actual 'fume.

    So, yeah, i'm pretty neutral as of now.


    PVC and Leather. A Chain and a feather




  11. #11

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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    i guess every leading (read: respected) perfumers employ this aromachemical...including genius's like Mr. Ellena.. i guess, we are not so educated about the effects ISO E "actually" has on a scent.

    btw bro, i "love" Molecule 01
    LOL I now realize I was a little harsh, in what I wrote above, concerning Molecule 01. Then again, ask me what I think about Molecule 01 in a year from now, and maybe I'll be jumping on that boat too.... or maybe not...
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 20th March 2010 at 04:34 PM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    I'm okay with Iso E Super, but I will most likely never enjoy Terre d'Hermes and Encre Noire. 2 words : Head Ache !!
    Last edited by Surfacing; 20th March 2010 at 04:57 PM.
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  13. #13

    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by jenson View Post
    i guess every leading (read: respected) perfumers employ this aromachemical...including genius's like Mr. Ellena.. i guess, we are not so educated about the effects ISO E "actually" has on a scent.

    btw bro, i "love" Molecule 01
    aah, c'mon - the master perfumer as a guru. Seeing things You can't see. That instanciating him as Your leader. That's wrong for me. Nevertheless, I like fragrance most of which are vintage. Regarding my comment above, exactly that is what I wanted to express. I like fragrances, but most of the contemporary offerings bore me - especially those of the 'genius'. Here it's a matter of taste. I don't like it. Depends!

  14. #14
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Olivier Creed invented ISO E Super.
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  15. #15
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Yep, Iso E Super is used to impart a certain intended fullness to a fragrance and used expertly can give an extra solid dimension to a fragrance.

    With the reveal that you are a-ok with Iso E Super perhaps this will also be the end of you stating in Creed threads 'they are synthetic frags!!!'(with little to no extra detail), which is especially odd considering the fact that your favorite fragrances list contain a larger % of synthetics..
    -

  16. #16
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by L'aventurier View Post
    LOL I now realize I was a little harsh, in what I wrote above, concerning Molecule 01. Then again, ask me what I think about Molecule 01 in a year from now, and maybe I'll be jumping on that boat too.... or maybe not...
    lol there are days when you don't wish to wear a lutens and most definitely dont want to wear a Millesime...Enter Molecule 01 - a dynamic & exhiliriating scent with effervescent qualities. i especially love to wear it in summers ...need to get hold of a FB..

  17. #17

    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    I don't hate it when used judiciously but scents that are oh, > 50% iso e really hurt my throat after smelling them all day. They leave me feeling rundown in a sense, too. It's almost like they are constantly bombarding my nervous/immune system which definitely takes its toll by the end of the day.

    Some days I can bear TdH but if I am even the slightest bit sick, didn't sleep well, etc. it really wreaks havoc on me. Same with Encre Noire and Colonia Intensa, even. I'm not 100% sure that it's just iso e that is causing me the problem but it sure seems to be at least one of the common factors between the scents that can really kick my ass.
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    I love it when a s/a (using the talking points they have been given I'm sure) tells me that XXX fragrance uses only natural, rare ingredients ...I spray it and instantly smell a huge dose of ISO E super. I usually just smile and say "oh really? that's remarkable!"
    Last edited by mrclmind; 21st March 2010 at 02:10 PM.

  19. #19

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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Yep, Iso E Super is used to impart a certain intended fullness to a fragrance and used expertly can give an extra solid dimension to a fragrance.

    With the reveal that you are a-ok with Iso E Super perhaps this will also be the end of you stating in Creed threads 'they are synthetic frags!!!'(with little to no extra detail), which is especially odd considering the fact that your favorite fragrances list contain a larger % of synthetics..
    I've never been totally against synthetics, unless I'm allergic to them, or they impart a feel to a fragrance that feels toxic,cheap or abrasive.

    As a note, I admit, I went through a phase of stating, as you quote, that "they (Creeds) are synthetic," but this was almost always to shine some truthful light on someone else's post saying something like "zomg Creed is da BEST becuz it smells naturals and must be 100% naturals becuz Cary Grant and the Queen of So-and-So wore it, and becuz it costs 200$ a bottle."

    When I bash Creed, it's usually just in the "value VS cost" sense - to this day, I wear and really enjoy a few Creed scents, regardless of whether they are made of more synthetic or natural ingredients.
    Last edited by L'Aventurier; 21st March 2010 at 05:40 PM.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    It's great, a nice sueded, woodsy, warm note with a slight conifer/greenapple side to it. But too much of it dehydrates and roughens an otherwise smooth and pleasing composition.

  21. #21

    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Bump - I just want to echo L'Aventurier's original comments in this thread. Having smelled pure iso e super a while ago, I realize that it's not the culprit in TdH that wreaks havoc on me. Oh, I still do find really iso e super heavy scents to be slightly grating - i'm one of those people that can smell pure iso e super on my skin constantly, I never get fatigued to it - but it's not the killer note that I thought it was. Now, if I only could figure out what that flint note in TdH really is. I'm also curious about the note in the base of Opus V that smells like metal shavings + sulfur. Woo, those are some killer molecules!
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  22. #22

    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by moltening View Post
    I'm okay with ISO E Super.
    Me too.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Iso-E is fine in moderation, but I don't like it as a primary ingredient in fragrance. Perles de Lalique is a good example - it smells a little too austere and chilly, a strange kind of buzz to it.

    It isn't, however, a note I call ''robo-cedar'' a screechy note or accord ( or aromachemical? ) akin to Virginia Cedar oil but very harsh and unpleasant to me, and in dozens of releases of these past few years.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Bump - I just want to echo L'Aventurier's original comments in this thread. Having smelled pure iso e super a while ago, I realize that it's not the culprit in TdH that wreaks havoc on me. Oh, I still do find really iso e super heavy scents to be slightly grating - i'm one of those people that can smell pure iso e super on my skin constantly, I never get fatigued to it - but it's not the killer note that I thought it was. Now, if I only could figure out what that flint note in TdH really is. I'm also curious about the note in the base of Opus V that smells like metal shavings + sulfur. Woo, those are some killer molecules!
    I recently made my own Molecule 01, and I agree... I think the note in TdH is the mineral/flint note, whatever that may be. I enjoy it but I can see how it could rub some people the wrong way, especially in the Parfum version.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: I'm Sorry Iso E Super. I Didn't Really Mean It!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Iso-E is fine in moderation, but I don't like it as a primary ingredient in fragrance. Perles de Lalique is a good example - it smells a little too austere and chilly, a strange kind of buzz to it.

    It isn't, however, a note I call ''robo-cedar'' a screechy note or accord ( or aromachemical? ) akin to Virginia Cedar oil but very harsh and unpleasant to me, and in dozens of releases of these past few years.
    It seems like a cedar note is used over top of iso-e a lot of the time... I agree in many frags it is overdone.

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