Simple. Fewer releases. Cut out the stupid practice of releasing some perfumes at an unbelievably exhorbitant prices and instead sell high quality fragrances at a mid-high price points in sensible sized bottles. Drop profit on the individual unit so as to gain higher overall profits by increasing sales volume.
In the current state of global economic organisation things can only get worse.
I'm of course still a neophyte to the house of Guerlain (see my wardrobe); but I feel:
L'instant Magic is a superior creation that is worthy of being called a modern L'Heure Bleue.
L'instant PH is also pretty good.
Idylle is nothing special but still lovely.
Reformulated Mitsouko EDP still smells pretty good (wearing it today actually).
Q: How do you make a feminine fragrance masculine?
A: Add 'Pour Homme' to the bottle
- Pierre Bourdon
Guerlain is making money and still has large fan base. Where's the problem? Oh yea, the proliferation of their product line, and us BN'ers being snooty at times and preferring the "artisanal" frags created by perfumer-wannabes with their chemistry lab sets..
Sure, it's not easy. I suppose the Guerlain family saw no viable (and equally lucrative) alternative to selling out to LVMH. They might have ultimately closed, a mid-sized company unable to survive among cosmetic/luxury megacorps and wily little niches. I realy don't care who makes perfume as long as it's good, but I do believe economics of scale work against quality in the luxury business, including perfume, which is why most of what LVMH touches becomes mediocre.
"...her fragrance all in my keeping; softly she comes in the night." Lyrics, Gordon Lightfoot, "Softly."
jacques guerlain was a poetic soul.
no more guerlains like he made them, those days are over.
and i think turin was spot on when he mentioned patricia de nicolai as the should-be heir of guerlain.
It would appear that there is some tiptoeing into this arena going on http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com with a slight nod to those who care about such things with their "Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Bouquet Numéro 1," which references lineage and perfumer(s) and odd things like that. We'll see.
even if Guerlain were to re-invent itself and go for a different direction, nothing much will change because there's more innovative perfumers out there who can create something just as similar.
But smart thing for Guerlain to do would be to bring those rich smelling baroque perfumes back into style. That way they'll be able to carry on further as after all styles and trends are all controlled by the industry and the people in them.
I have to agree with those who see the Guerlain flacon as half empty and not half full.
Yes, Guerlain is the Microsoft of the perfume world.
Last edited by zztopp; 2nd April 2010 at 05:04 AM.
Don't blame Thierry Wasser for mediocrities. Blame LVMH for briefing him to create mainstream stuff on a shoestring.
I've written about this before but I can't help see many parallels between the music business of the 80's into the 90's and the perfume business now. Small labels putting out quality music get devoured by big conglomerates run by bean-counting Suits who are afraid to rock the boat. The business model: throw money at it, if it doesn't stick right away, dump it and on to the next thing. No respect for the consumer, no real development, just the short-term thinking that has, imho, drive all the "creative" businesses right into the ground.
Department stores in the UK and Ireland have nothing but the usual suspects and even then if you want more than edt you have get it ordered in especially.
Last edited by zztopp; 2nd April 2010 at 05:21 PM.
Guerlain has been acquired by LVMH because it couldn't operate alone anymore. Now LVMH is dictating the mediocrities from above for this brand. Microsoft, as you might know, is an independent company, very capable of deciding its own direction, producing more technology patents than almost any other company in your 'business technology domain'.
Your comparison is wrong.
He understands your English just fine, just like most non-native English speakers here on the forum do. Do you really need to be this degrading to people who speak English as a 2nd or 3rd language? This only shows your lack of eloquence.I dont have time to put it in simpler english he can run it through a translation tool.
I've heard of LMVH being compared to Microsoft, but certainly not Guerlain. Guerlain is too small to be compared to Microsoft unless they bought a bunch of smaller perfume houses along the way.
Secondly, Microsoft's products are starting to improve. That's not the case with Guerlain, Dior or anyone else swallowed by LVMH.
Which aspect of Guerlain does it has in common with Microsoft? Honestly i work in the IT sector and that comparison dosent make sense at all.
The comparison isn't a 1-to-1 match but its pretty close. You don't need to teach me about Microsoft, I have thorough knowledge of their patents and history (another stat: in a recently released report they lag only IBM in the total number of patents awarded overall in the Tech industry, but IBMs share is more in the server/hardware sector). If you are a Microsoft fanboy, I can understand the harsh disagreement (they are a fairly stubborn bunch), but the general consensus is that the company isn't the force it once was (the recent lull is due to cloudy leadership and immense size). BTW, LVMH is not primarily a perfume company.
As one of the leading tech giants in the industry, my comparison was intended to highlight Guerlains clout in a similar manner as that of Microsofts. An influential initial progenitor of the industry and still highly regarded (at this point we can disregard the other 'early groundbreaking' companies such as SDC/DEC/ or Molinard/Coty/etc in the perfume business. Just like how Microsoft built on the early breathroughs by these computer companies yet still blazed an early and innovative trail in the industry, Guerlain did the same by improving and building on the Coty foundations and entrenched in perfume history.
The comparison is especially apt when comparing the expanding product line - just like how Microsoft increasingly relies on past hits for positive feel and growth, Guerlain does the same with its classic line while exploring diverging product lines which aren't as innovative as its past hits. A sense of conservatism now exists in both companies (although one can argue with that both are recently resurgent with Natal/Bing and the L'Arte line) with an unwillingness to innovate as before. Both companies still exert immense influence in the industry, sometimes able to strong arm sources into obtaining the best materials or acquire software companies.
I will be glad to take this to PMs if you want more but I will not further engage in any efforts by you to either create a stir in this thread and derail it. If you don't agree with my views thats fine, present yours and we can see what you have to say.
Last edited by zztopp; 3rd April 2010 at 03:07 AM.
Last edited by DULLAH; 3rd April 2010 at 03:13 AM.
I"m hopeful for Guerlain's future, actually. i own full bottles of apres L'ondee (1906), l'heure Bleue and Mitsouko (1912 ish), nahema (1979?), Bois D'armenie (2006). Chamade is my next purchase, and Cuir Beluga i'll buy this fall.
It's also not that i don't like Tonka Imperial or Boise Torride, i'm just not a fan of gourmands (But i do appreciate the quality of these gorgeous scents)
Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org
I sincerely hope someone at Guerlain takes the time to read these posts.
What a bunch of nervous Nellies here! Guerlain, which not too long ago was a floundering family owned business, would have probably be long gone, or a shadow of its former self, if it weren't for the LVMH take-over! Would you rather that Guerlain went it alone and ended up trashing their classics like Caron due to a lack of funds and access to top quality resources? Guerlain is still creating and releasing some truly amazing fragrances, why are you all making such short shrift of them?
Plus Que Jamais
Spiritueuse Double Vanille
L'Instant Pour Homme
Monsieur Wasser's very own Quand Vient La Pluie
and Jicky, the current formula still smells great!
Would you all prefer they continued with things like Champs-Elysées, Cherry Blossom and Mahora instead?
Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 4th April 2010 at 04:35 PM.
http://espritdeparfum.com/ leave a french comment saying that "oh look! they're talking about guerlain!" :P
k i'll do it in a bit
however i do wish they'd leave at least 1 counter here in malaysia with their classics like l'heure bleu, apres l'ondee, mouchouir de monseiur etc, or the very least some of their colongues like eau imperiale (i understand this is a tropical country, and heady/baroque perfumes wont sell much) so that we can appreciate it more :P
I like l'instant PH, but its similiarities to eau de beaux is kinda disturbing especially for what i paid for it.