Code of Conduct
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 61 to 90 of 90
  1. #61
    N_Tesla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Center of the Universe; California.
    Posts
    4,599
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    I accidentally double posted. See post that follow this one.



    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    What a bunch of nervous Nellies here! Guerlain, which not too long ago was a floundering family owned business, would have probably be long gone if they weren't re-financed by LVMH. They're still creating and releasing some truly amazing fragrances, why are you all making such short shrift of:
    Plus Que Jamais
    Insolence EdP

    Spiritueuse Double Vanille

    Oriental Brulant

    Bois d'Arménie
    L'Instant Pour Homme

    and Monsieur Wasser's very own Quand Vient La Pluie and Jicky's formula still smells great!
    Would you all prefer they continued with things like Champs-Elysées, Cherry Blossom and Mahora?
    Last edited by N_Tesla; 4th April 2010 at 06:17 AM.

  2. #62
    N_Tesla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Center of the Universe; California.
    Posts
    4,599
    Blog Entries
    2

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Ruggles; You make a good point. I have a deep rooted distrust of corporations. The Patou line has IMO languished under corporate ownership. Time will tell with Guerlain. Under family ownership art was an important and integral component of the business. IMO the jury is still out on the current configuration. My instincts tell me that niche perfumeries will be the wave of the future. Niche puts the art back into fragrance.
    Last edited by N_Tesla; 4th April 2010 at 06:09 AM.

  3. #63

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by N_Tesla View Post
    Ruggles; You make a good point, however IMO large corporations have a tendency to be bad for fragrance. Patou is an example of a prestige line that has suffered. Time will tell with Guerlain. I admit to having a deeply rooted distrust of corporate entities not completely unfounded.
    I hope LMVH wont be that stupid to nerf out a perfume house's perfume. But so far they're doing ok with the exception of maybe Guerlain Homme.

  4. #64

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    ^Oh, for a second there I thought you were saying that Guerlain Homme wasn't the nerfed out one...
    I was about to ask sarcastically about the Givenchy Plays (which I find to be the same horribly disjointed type of nerf as Guerlain Homme)
    But I see we agree it was garbage.
    high hopes though for wasser's upcoming kolnisch wasser.
    Last edited by DULLAH; 9th April 2010 at 01:31 PM.

  5. #65
    Pollux's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    http://goo.gl/maps/XJ8rn
    Posts
    3,312

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Unless there is an amazing amount of money involved in R+D, innovation is mostly achieved by independent parties. This includes the arts and design, as well as perfume - making. Thus, I think that independent perfumistas will be achieving what the big multinationals won't be able to do due to practical consequences of profit - mximization criteria (remember these companies are managed by professionals appointed by owners, meaning stockholders, so in some way they have to make decisions based on risk aversion in order to assure financial goals).

    On the other hand, it would be a lack of managerial sense to ignore some aspects that have an impact on brand reputation. Thus I think Guerlain will play safe in terms of their popular options (actually a bad thing), but at the same time will be playing some risks on certain exclusive lines. I suppose this is the reason why classics as well as exclusive lines are not available outside major global cities.

    Still, I have the feeling the house will loose much of its appeal due to the reasons stated above. And the saddest thing is that in the long run the same multinationals owning traditional houses will end up buying companies that in the near future will be considered as present-day versions of what Guerlain used to be.

  6. #66

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by DULLAH View Post
    ^Oh, for a second there I thought you were saying that Guerlain Homme wasn't the nerfed out one...
    I was about to ask sarcastically about the Givenchy Plays (which I find to be the same horribly disjointed type of nerf as Guerlain Homme)
    But I see we agree it was garbage.
    high hopes though for wasser's upcoming kolnisch wasser.
    Guerlain Homme is not exceptional but still not as bad as Play. At least it dosent smell like melted plastic synthetic mess. The fact that GH shared too many similarities with Kenzo Power speaks a lot on what happened to the originality of Guerlain's creations

    Quote Originally Posted by Pollux View Post
    Unless there is an amazing amount of money involved in R+D, innovation is mostly achieved by independent parties. This includes the arts and design, as well as perfume - making. Thus, I think that independent perfumistas will be achieving what the big multinationals won't be able to do due to practical consequences of profit - mximization criteria (remember these companies are managed by professionals appointed by owners, meaning stockholders, so in some way they have to make decisions based on risk aversion in order to assure financial goals).

    On the other hand, it would be a lack of managerial sense to ignore some aspects that have an impact on brand reputation. Thus I think Guerlain will play safe in terms of their popular options (actually a bad thing), but at the same time will be playing some risks on certain exclusive lines. I suppose this is the reason why classics as well as exclusive lines are not available outside major global cities.

    Still, I have the feeling the house will loose much of its appeal due to the reasons stated above. And the saddest thing is that in the long run the same multinationals owning traditional houses will end up buying companies that in the near future will be considered as present-day versions of what Guerlain used to be.
    so far that seems to be what is happening with Guerlain. However what they fail to try out is to market old smelling perfumes to the younger generation -- that its cool to smell classy again. It may be a risk but its gonna help them long term, i feel
    Last edited by joey86; 13th April 2010 at 02:33 AM.

  7. #67

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by DULLAH View Post
    ^Oh, for a second there I thought you were saying that Guerlain Homme wasn't the nerfed out one...
    I was about to ask sarcastically about the Givenchy Plays (which I find to be the same horribly disjointed type of nerf as Guerlain Homme)
    But I see we agree it was garbage.
    high hopes though for wasser's upcoming kolnisch wasser.
    I think this is coming out in the middle of May, but boutiques should be giving out testers soon.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  8. #68
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by joey86 View Post
    but sadly not accessible......I have the HR EDT and i feel its already quite impressive. Sadly the EDP as well as a bunch of other Guerlains are nowhere to be found in my country. Most of their counters closed, now leaving only 4 counters in the whole of Malaysia.

    As long as JP Guerlain is alive, i still have hope that they would come up with something that would remind me of the wonders of perfumery(like the older offerings of apres l'ondee).

    I just realized that L'instant PH has a lot of similiarities with eau de beaux / armani attitude(diamonds? the one with cocoa in the notes) another "our version of..." GUERLAIN!!!! NUUUU BE ORIGINAL!!
    Joey - I believe in the last 6 months , Guerlain has withdrawn from Malaysian duty free too .( At least at Penang -was told by SAs at the airport )
    Also at Changi airport,Singapore , they only have a few offerings - the usual - Shalimar - only in EDT, Mitsouko in EDT, Idylle, Champs Elysee and Guerlain Homme I think . Quite disappointing.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 13th April 2010 at 03:51 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  9. #69

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    Joey - I believe in the last 6 months , Guerlain has withdrawn from Malaysian duty free too .( At least at Penang -was told by SAs at the airport )
    Also at Changi airport,Singapore , they only have a few offerings - the usual - Shalimar - only in EDT, Mitsouko in EDT, Idylle, Champs Elysee and Guerlain Homme I think . Quite disappointing.
    yep its the same here, except that samsara, vertiver (only in 2-3 out of the 4 branches have it) and heritage is present. Jicky in gold bottle is only available at the KLCC branch.

    Did Guerlain just insult us asians that we are unable to appreciate older scents? or they're just too sales driven to take a chance with their older offerings...

  10. #70
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by joey86 View Post
    yep its the same here, except that samsara, vertiver (only in 2-3 out of the 4 branches have it) and heritage is present. Jicky in gold bottle is only available at the KLCC branch.

    Did Guerlain just insult us asians that we are unable to appreciate older scents? or they're just too sales driven to take a chance with their older offerings...
    I was told by SAs that Guerlain had a whole counter in Penang, at the mall Gurney Plaza about 18 months /2 years ago or so. All Guerlain has been withdrawn now.
    I believe it is partly expense because you know the exchange rate to Malaysian Ringgit is quite high even though it has dropped lately and fragrance tastes in Asia. I reckon they do research to see what people like in different regions. Mitsouko sells extremely well in Japan apparently.
    Joey - I don't really know- it's just a shame Guerlain will be forgotten in certain asian countries because of lack of product availability.

    Still disappointing because it seems that Guerlain distribution everywhere has dropped or they only offer the usual fare like Samsara, Shalimar.
    For example- Heathrow airport, London, Terminal 3. In the 1990s, I could routinely buy Mitsouko , Jicky etc from the duty free area - now they have dropped all those in favour of just Shalimar EDT and Samsara - the usual stuff. Why ?? !!!!
    You can buy Chanel Les Exclusifs from the Chanel Boutique at terminal three but hardly any Guerlain ?? !
    They don't seem to want to give exposure to their other scents which is abit odd to me.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 13th April 2010 at 09:11 PM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  11. #71

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    I was told by SAs that Guerlain had a whole counter in Penang, at the mall Gurney Plaza about 18 months /2 years ago or so. All Guerlain has been withdrawn now.
    I believe it is partly expense because you know the exchange rate to Malaysian Ringgit is quite high even though it has dropped lately and fragrance tastes in Asia. I reckon they do research to see what people like in different regions. Mitsouko sells extremely well in Japan apparently.
    Joey - I don't really know- it's just a shame Guerlain will be forgotten in certain asian countries because of lack of product availability.

    Still disappointing because it seems that Guerlain distribution everywhere has dropped or they only offer the usual fare like Samsara, Shalimar.
    For example- Heathrow airport, London, Terminal 3. In the 1990s, I could routinely buy Mitsouko , Jicky etc from the duty free area - now they have dropped all those in favour of just Shalimar EDT and Samsara - the usual stuff. Why ?? !!!!
    You can buy Chanel Les Exclusifs from the Chanel Boutique at terminal three but hardly any Guerlain ?? !
    They don't seem to want to give exposure to their other scents which is abit odd to me.
    Maybe they're running out of the older stocks? Which is why they cannot to sell anymore of those. Even the Heritage that i can find in counters around are the old stock (circa 2007-08) and they were sold with the old pricing, while the new HR EDT is only available at 100ml and retails at RM278 (yeps, almost 300 smackeroos, pretty much out of reach for the average guy). L'instant PH EDP has been withdrawn. Jicky in the gold refillable bottle is RM396 for 100ml. so you'd have to be rich to be a regular visitor.

    Most malaysians however, are not into fragrance and prefer aquatics (its hot here!) and there's a general dislike for heady perfumes. But still many people do still use heady perfumes around like Samsara and some estee lauder here and there. Because i know HR, L'instant and GH would do well here as they go well with the hot weather.

    It seems tho, Guerlain is not doing well at all in malaysia because of lack of promotion. Their counters look sad and visitors there often check out their cosmetics and not perfumes. Even their flagship counter in KLCC is tucked away in a corner and hidden from the rest of the counters. I wonder if this is the same with other countries....

  12. #72
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by joey86 View Post
    Maybe they're running out of the older stocks? Which is why they cannot to sell anymore of those. Even the Heritage that i can find in counters around are the old stock (circa 2007-08) and they were sold with the old pricing, while the new HR EDT is only available at 100ml and retails at RM278 (yeps, almost 300 smackeroos, pretty much out of reach for the average guy). L'instant PH EDP has been withdrawn. Jicky in the gold refillable bottle is RM396 for 100ml. so you'd have to be rich to be a regular visitor.

    Most malaysians however, are not into fragrance and prefer aquatics (its hot here!) and there's a general dislike for heady perfumes. But still many people do still use heady perfumes around like Samsara and some estee lauder here and there. Because i know HR, L'instant and GH would do well here as they go well with the hot weather.

    It seems tho, Guerlain is not doing well at all in malaysia because of lack of promotion. Their counters look sad and visitors there often check out their cosmetics and not perfumes. Even their flagship counter in KLCC is tucked away in a corner and hidden from the rest of the counters. I wonder if this is the same with other countries....
    Joey - I thought I would be safe going to Beverly Hills in Los Angeles - I thought they would have every thing Guerlain there - nope. The stock was a bit scatty - abit of this, abit of that.
    Sure, they have some Les Parisiennes etc ,etc but on the whole, the counter was nothing much at Saks ( which I found quite dead really on the whole ) and no counter at all at Neiman Marcus. Strange way of promoting business.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 14th April 2010 at 01:30 AM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  13. #73

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    redundant post, content is supposed to be the same as the one 2 posts before
    Last edited by joey86; 14th April 2010 at 01:30 PM.

  14. #74
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Also Joey , - I was told the cosmetic /perfume prices in Malaysia went up January 1st this year by 5 % which probably doesn't help matters.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  15. #75

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    Joey - I thought I would be safe going to Beverly Hills in Los Angeles - I thought they would have every thing Guerlain there - nope. The stock was a bit scatty - abit of this, abit of that.
    Sure, they have some Les Parisiennes etc ,etc but on the whole, the counter was nothing much at Saks ( which I found quite dead really on the whole ) and no counter at all at Neiman Marcus. Strange way of promoting business.
    or perhaps Guerlain is really not doing well? I am not sure what is going on now with this house. Or perhaps they want to draw our attention to the newer stuff?

  16. #76
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    I think they want to draw our attention to the newer fragrances like Idylle too. But you know Shalimar is a classic - Guerlain's star perfume and that can be found at all Guerlain counters. Maybe it's the exclusivity issue.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  17. #77

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    OKay in one of the UK newspapers a tabloid in the business section it mentions LVHM and sales.

    Well seems the cognac is of course doing well for them in the worldwide recession.
    Oh and on the fragrance front Givenchy with the help of Timberlake fronting Play has 12% rise in sales. Does not mention the other brands they own so Givenchy and Play is the one making money for them at the money per centage wise.
    DONNA

  18. #78

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    I've got a little off-topic question about bottles of L'heure Bleue EDP. Is the sprayer of these bottles supose to have the double G symbol of Guerlain on the top of the sprayer, or not?
    "Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
    Manfred: That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. " (Ice Age)

  19. #79
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by w3pearl View Post
    I've got a little off-topic question about bottles of L'heure Bleue EDP. Is the sprayer of these bottles supose to have the double G symbol of Guerlain on the top of the sprayer, or not?
    Are you talking about the habit de fete bottles like this ?

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  20. #80

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Bud Light? Not really a very apt comparison. I will say a more appropriate comparison would be with a company such as Microsoft. A glowing tech history, still considered a giant in its domain, and was most innovative during the early years, but clearly not as cutting edge today (arguable atleast in Microsofts case), and shaky leadership. Still occasionally puts out a great product once in a while but relies mostly on relaunches of its core products to shore up sales and nostalgia (Windows, Office).

    Yes, Guerlain is the Microsoft of the perfume world.

    That is IMO just a silly comparison. Guerlain is art... Microsoft, whether you want to admit it or not, is all marketing and a huge conglomeration of committees making decisions in an attempt to make MS the "WalMart of computer software"...

    (no offense meant, it's just there is no apparent ART at Microsoft, whereas at Guerlain, there is art-aplenty.)

    Just sad that Guerlain has been absorbed. Microsoft, on the other hand, would probably be just the same if absorbed by ... oh ... say ... WalMart.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  21. #81

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    to quote a living classic: "WalMart?! Uhm... do they sell like...walls there?" (Paris Hilton LOL )

    mistiknot- I was refering to the big one (75ml, mitsouko-like bottle), but an answer for the 50 ml one (that's how much a bottle like that has, right?) would be just as useful, I'm thinking of ordering that too, cause I like how it looks, but I'm not sure about how the sprayer is supose to be. With "GG" or not... I mean... I'm not a "Guerlain person", I don't know how the details are supose to be to make sure it's original.
    "Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
    Manfred: That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. " (Ice Age)

  22. #82
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by w3pearl View Post
    to quote a living classic: "WalMart?! Uhm... do they sell like...walls there?" (Paris Hilton LOL )

    mistiknot- I was refering to the big one (75ml, mitsouko-like bottle), but an answer for the 50 ml one (that's how much a bottle like that has, right?) would be just as useful, I'm thinking of ordering that too, cause I like how it looks, but I'm not sure about how the sprayer is supose to be. With "GG" or not... I mean... I'm not a "Guerlain person", I don't know how the details are supose to be to make sure it's original.
    Do you have a picture ? Is it this one ?

    or this one ?


    Sorry for being dumb .

    The habit de fete 75ml EDP bottle cover should have GG on the stopper. The glass one doesn't. Hope that helps !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  23. #83

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    <script src='http://img519.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=lh707w.jpg&p=tl' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript></noscript>



    This one.


    EDIT: thanks for your answer. All fine.

    habit de fete bottles come in 75 ml too? new information for me. thanks again.
    Last edited by w3pearl; 20th April 2010 at 03:16 AM.
    "Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
    Manfred: That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. " (Ice Age)

  24. #84

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    This one.


    EDIT: thanks for your answer. All fine. [/QUOTE]

    [QUOTE=w3pearl;1814432]<script src='http://img519.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=lh707w.jpg&p=tl' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript></noscript>

    That certainly appears to be a new-gen bottle, genuine. The box is right, and the bottle stopper should be plastic. The labeling is right too. HTH. (like teh Wall joke BTW)
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  25. #85
    Basenotes Institution
    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Exactly Where I Should Be
    Posts
    16,345

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by w3pearl View Post
    <script src='http://img519.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=lh707w.jpg&p=tl' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript></noscript>



    This one.


    EDIT: thanks for your answer. All fine.

    habit de fete bottles come in 75 ml too? new information for me. thanks again.
    Sorry - I meant 50 ml EDP - yes it does but not 75 ml .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  26. #86

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    The sprayer is plain, at least it is on my newish 75 ml bottle of edp.

  27. #87
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    A bit late to this discussion - probably for the best since I'm hopeful for Guerlain. Not fanboy hopeful, but hopeful nonetheless. This is all my opinion - some of it grounded in fact, some of it sheer speculation. Take it for what it's worth - my $0.02.

    I see a slow trend upwards. Slow, because upwards is hard, not magical. Bringing back a house is tough - witness Hermès. Guerlain is having to fight off the normal ossification of established businesses, and bringing in outside blood is an excellent way to do that. Now bringing in PdN might have done that, but perhaps there were other reasons at play. In any case, I now think that bringing in Wasser was a smart move.

    My gut feeling is that JPG spotted him as moldable talent - somebody who was not only talented but who was in search of a direction (one could call his earlier works diverse or lacking in focus - take your pick depending upon your POV). In either case, someone with adaptability, and not yet locked into his own style. The latter would have been a risk with many well-known perfumers. I think Guerlain needed somebody who could/would adopt the house ethics, and Wasser needed a port and a flag for his ship. Not every perfumer would not only be willing, but eager to vacuum up Guerlain tradition to carry it to the next generation. I suspect that Wasser showed that interest to a very high degree. I also believe he has now demonstrated that ability, because I can smell what I see as his thoughtful take on Guerlain themes - and not just Guerlinade - in his recent stuff. Anyway, that's my theory of the Vegas quickie marriage of Wasser and Guerlain.

    I will admit to liking - ok - loving Guerlain Homme, although I personally believe that the EDP Intense was Wasser's truest expression of that scent. In comparison to that, as well as his earlier works, I think that Idylle shows his versatility, and that QVLP shows his naked ability.

    I have smelled the new cologne, which was apparently a personal thing that Wasser did for himself while working on Idylle. I will be buying a bottle, whatever the price. To my nose, it is in a league with EdC Imperiale and Eau de Coq - feeling every bit as traditional, but at the same time with a modern, novel twist. There is a very interesting green note in it, which I think I'm also getting in Voyage d'Hermès, but at a strikingly higher dose in the Guerlain. It's very distinctive and compelling. I had plans to re-stock my Imperiale later this year, but will instead get the new EdC as soon as it's out.

    And - very hopefully for us greeniacs, Wasser has admitted to having a green fetish. I hope that this provides a new, rejuvenating stimulus to the house, in a slightly different overall direction.

    Wasser is young (at least to this oldster), and I think he has done some solid stuff already. My money says that if Guerlain gives him the chance, he will put several classics in the Guerlain line before he passes on the torch. No miracles. But if we're patient, a handful of truly excellent scents, a couple of classics, and perhaps one that changes the course of perfumery. I don't think you can legitimately ask for more than that.

    I see slow, upward progress. I am not worried about the future of Guerlain as long as they keep the faith and don't get all panicky on us.
    * * * *

  28. #88

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Redneck, I also sampled the new Wasser cologne, but found it did not last long. I usu. reserve these eau scents for home. I would much rather save up for a bottle of Derby. I think the Wasser cologne should go for about $100 or so for the 75 ml. Can someone else check this?
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  29. #89
    Moderator

    Redneck Perfumisto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Spiritually, Kansas
    Posts
    13,298
    Blog Entries
    37

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by Primrose View Post
    Redneck, I also sampled the new Wasser cologne, but found it did not last long. I usu. reserve these eau scents for home. I would much rather save up for a bottle of Derby. I think the Wasser cologne should go for about $100 or so for the 75 ml. Can someone else check this?
    Just checked, Primrose:

    La Cologne du Parfumeur: spray bottle: 100 ml/72€; flacons: 250 ml/145€; 500ml/215€; 1L/370€
    At the current rate (1.34859 dollar/euro) that's $97 for 100 mL, or $195 for 250 mL.

    I agree, the new cologne is ephemeral, but no worse than Impériale, which vanishes in mere minutes. I found the green note in the new CdP to be just a bit more durable than the lime note in Impériale.

    I was bowled over by Impériale, but given the choice between a bottle of each cologne and Derby, I would say you're smart to go with Derby. It's magnificent stuff. Turin calls it top ten, and I would agree. It stacks up with the classic Chanels, Tiffany for Men, and my modern faves like CdG 2MAN. It reaches that place of uniqueness and beauty that truly stands apart. In the event of fire, Derby gets saved, and Impériale gets to help put things out.
    * * * *

  30. #90

    Default Re: What Fate Awaits the House of Guerlain?

    Quote Originally Posted by Redneck Perfumisto View Post
    Just checked, Primrose:



    At the current rate (1.34859 dollar/euro) that's $97 for 100 mL, or $195 for 250 mL.

    I agree, the new cologne is ephemeral, but no worse than Impériale, which vanishes in mere minutes. I found the green note in the new CdP to be just a bit more durable than the lime note in Impériale.

    I was bowled over by Impériale, but given the choice between a bottle of each cologne and Derby, I would say you're smart to go with Derby. It's magnificent stuff. Turin calls it top ten, and I would agree. It stacks up with the classic Chanels, Tiffany for Men, and my modern faves like CdG 2MAN. It reaches that place of uniqueness and beauty that truly stands apart. In the event of fire, Derby gets saved, and Impériale gets to help put things out.
    Thank you, Redneck. I agree that Derby is a great choice given the light eau scents. CdP is indeed a good scent, but my money is on other Guerlains.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10th January 2010, 07:46 PM
  2. An interview with new Guerlain in-house perfumer, Thierry Wasser
    By Grant in forum Female Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 14th August 2008, 02:53 PM
  3. Wasser joins Guerlain as in-house perfumer
    By Grant in forum Basenotes Articles
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 23rd May 2008, 03:29 AM
  4. Wasser New Guerlain House Nose
    By hirch_duckfinder in forum General Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 19th May 2008, 05:19 PM
  5. Vindicated! Guerlain is the Best Fragrance House
    By Rebelwithoutaclue in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 22nd February 2007, 11:49 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •