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  1. #1

    Question Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I am a huge fan of Francis Kurkdjian. When I discovered Gaultier2, I fell in love and began looking for his other frags. I was surprised to find that I already had about three of his other scents in my wardrobe.

    Today I was reading up on my SOTD, Van Cleef & Arpels Murmure, which was created by Jacques Cavallier who also made several of my other faves including Alexander McQueen Kingdom, Stella McCartney Stella, and M7!

    So...do you find that you lean towards certain noses (often without prior knowledge that the nose designed this new wonderful thing you must have)? It's almost like a piece of music you fell in love with, only to find out it's by someone you have been collecting for years. I find it interesting that there are certain noses out there who seem to have several works in their repertoire that appeal to me...almost as if there is a vibrational harmony or some kind of "likeness" between us.

    Thoughts? Comments?
    Beauty is but the sensible image of the Infinite.
    Like truth and justice it lives within us; like virtue and the moral law it is a companion of the soul.
    -George Bancroft {1800-1891 American Historian}

    =

    current favorites:
    Balmain Jolie Madame, Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan
    =

  2. #2

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I was suprised to find Annick Ménardo designed 2 out of 3 of my first 'proper' perfumes (Lolita Lempicka and Hypnotic Poison) as well as Bvlgari Black which I greatly admired but couldn't justify buying back then as a poor student. And baffled in her involvement with Lancôme's Hypnôse, which is one of the few scents I truly, truly dislike.

    I wonder if the love/hate split is pretty common? Have either of your favourite noses released something you can't stand, mochi?

  3. #3

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    hehe.. you've touched on two of my favorites- Annick Mernardo made Bois D'armenie (a fave), and Kurkdjian made Isvaraya (another fave)

    in general, I only like work done by noses when they put out something 'expensive', because it seems like they have less pressure to make a commercial hit, can use better ingredients, and are given more freedom to be creative (and not cater to the masses)

    A good example: What was FK doing putting out slop like BeBe perfume? Compare this to Rose Barbare, his Parfums MDCI creations, JHaG, and his own line. 'nuff said.
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  4. #4

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I try to treat them all as equals, but some are more equal than others: JC Ellena until about 2007, B. Douchafour (many fans here), Olivia Giacobetti.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Ernest Beaux is one of my favorite perfumers. I gravitate towards his fragrances: No 5, the original Evening in Paris, Bois des Iles, etc.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Yes, definitely. To name some names, Marc Buxton, Germaine Cellier, Bertrand Douchaufour, Jean-Claude Ellena, Olivia Giacobetti, Annick Goutal, Jacques Guerlain (I call him affectionately "St.Jacques"), Jean Kerleo (responsible for my dear Yohji!), Linda Pilkington, Christopher Sheldrake...
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  7. #7

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Bertrand Duchaufour has hit all the right buttons for me. The Ellenas (father and daughter) and Olivia Giacobetti are also favorites of mine. I'm learning that I like innovation, low sillage, and a transparent quality in my fragrances. Especially innovation!
    Last edited by Haunani; 2nd April 2010 at 07:44 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Quote Originally Posted by Haunani View Post
    Bertrand Duchaufour has hit all the right buttons for me. The Ellenas (father and daughter) and Olivia Giacobetti are also favorites of mine. I'm learning that I like innovation, low sillage, and a transparent quality in my fragrances. Especially innovation!
    You must try and get hold of a sample of Duchaufour's new Orange Blossom for Penhaligan's then! I've worn it once, from spritz in the shop, but I think it has a nice twist. The sillage is light and traditional, but close to the skin it's much deeper and rounded out, almost sexy. I think that's rather clever!

  9. #9

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I love Ernest Beaux. His Chanels were extraordinary.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    no predilection.

    But... must admit- I am quite curious about sniffing ALL Jean Kerleo's creations. So interesting everything I sniffed from him so far!!! Some I find brilliant, work of a genious-nose. ..
    "Diego: Why did you do that? you could've died trying to rescue me.
    Manfred: That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. " (Ice Age)

  11. #11

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Quote Originally Posted by Petra Ichor View Post
    You must try and get hold of a sample of Duchaufour's new Orange Blossom for Penhaligan's then! I've worn it once, from spritz in the shop, but I think it has a nice twist. The sillage is light and traditional, but close to the skin it's much deeper and rounded out, almost sexy. I think that's rather clever!
    Thank you, Petra Ichor! That one does sound like a must-try for me.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Certainly Patricia de Nicolai.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    My very favorite - Germaine Cellier!

    reine

  14. #14

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Certainly!

    Christopher Sheldrake
    Maurice Roucel
    Sophia Grojsman
    Jaques Polge
    Anne Flipo
    Olivia Giacobetti
    Bertrand Douchafour
    Ernest Beaux
    Jean Claude Ellena

    my apologies for any misspellings
    Last edited by ubuandibeme; 3rd April 2010 at 03:27 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Yep. Michel Roudnitska--all except for Delrae Emotionelle, which scared me. I also like Edouard Flechier's work for Frederic Malle, although Poison also scares me.

    I agree that it's not always enough to look at the nose--you have to look at how much freedom the nose was given to use quality materials (which usually, but not always, corresponds with cost). Then again, some noses seem to be able to pull it off even with the lower cost frags.
    For sale: JL Scherrer parfum (reduced price) and more!

    "One half of the world cannot understand the pleasures of the other." ~ Jane Austen

    “Pleasure is the flower that passes; remembrance, the lasting perfume” ~ Jean de Boufflers

  16. #16

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I seem to have a weak spot for Olivier Cresp, but the reason might just be that he is so extraordinarily productive, and "lends" his nose to so much....

    So many worth of mentioning, but let´s say Annick Goutal, Francis Kurkdjian, J-C Ellena, Bertrand Douchafour & Christopher Sheldrake.
    Everything passes. Everything changes. Just do what you think you should do.
    --Bob Dylan

  17. #17

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Here are some perfumers whose work I tend to love:

    Jean Laporte (MPG)
    Alberto Morillas (colonia intensa, versace Ph, mugler cologne, M7 w/ Cavallier + MANY more)
    Lucas Sieuzac (Reflection Man, Jubilation Woman, Wicken 3000, Givenchy Play w/ Emilie Copperman)
    Francis Kurkdjian (APOM homme, FdM, Narciso Rodriguez PH)
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  18. #18

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Quote Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post
    Certainly Patricia de Nicolai.
    Patricia Nicolaï for me too.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    The two different Polges made 2 of my favorites.
    Q: How do you make a feminine fragrance masculine?
    A: Add 'Pour Homme' to the bottle
    - Pierre Bourdon

  20. #20
    Cartoonish Royalty Le Grand Duc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I'll go with Annick Menaro too;

    - Hypnotic Poison
    - Body Kouros
    - Au Masculin
    - Jaïpur pour Homme
    - Xeryus Rouge

    ... all favourites of mine!

  21. #21

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Olivia Giacobetti, Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, and Bertrand Douchafour
    I don't know much about medicine, but I know what I like. -- S.J. Perelman

  22. #22

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Germaine Cellier, Francis Fabron, André Fraysse, Michel Hy. Creators of so many classics.
    Last edited by Brielle87; 6th April 2010 at 06:30 AM.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  23. #23
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Patricia de Nicolai - Hands down the perfumer I get most excited about: faves are Les Rivage de Syrtes, Un Couer en Mai, Odalisque, Le Temps d'Une Fete, Sacrebleu, New York, Nicolai PH, Baladin...you get the idea!
    Bernard Chant - Azuree, Cabochard... so divine!
    Jean Claude Ellena - creator of so many perfect, diverse scents, including Dia Woman, Eau de Campagne, and the original First (honorable mention to progeny Bernard Ellena for Style and Stylessence of Jil Sander. )
    Edmond Roudnitska - Not a misfire there: Diorella, Le Parfum de Therese , Eau Sauvage, Eau d'Hermes
    Jean Paul Guerlain - my preferred Guerlain: Parure, Chant d'Aromes, Champs Elysees, Plus que Jamais, Chamade...
    Vintage Jacques Polge (We cannot forget Diva, Rive Gauche...Antaeus ...in their original glory...)


    Some remarkable hits from: Evelyn Boulanger, Vulcan Michel Roudnitska, Pierre Guillaume, Mark Buxton, Dominique Ropion...
    Last edited by Hillaire; 23rd April 2010 at 12:22 AM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Another talent who "lends" his nose around is Alberto Morillas - VERY talented!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Annick Goutal and Olivia Giacobetti.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Jacques Polge, for Mademoiselle, Sycomore, 31 Rue Cambon... Coromandel...

    Jean Paul Guerlain for Coriolan, Habit Rouge, and Vetiver.

    I appreciate Michael Storer's nose, but am unsure he has reached his potential yet... Monk is VERY nice...

    Annick Menardo has got to get major credit for the unique Bvlgari Black.
    Last edited by actiasluna; 22nd April 2010 at 04:37 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  27. #27
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    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Dominique Ropion of Ysatis,Carnal Flower,Amarige,Une Fleur de Cassie fame .
    Jacques and Jean Paul Guerlain of..Guerlain fame .
    Bernard Chant- Aromatics Elixir.
    Germaine Cellier- like Brielle.
    Calice Becker- By Kilian's .
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Absolutely:

    Germaine Cellier (my best ever), and
    JC Ellena (though Rumba terrifies me!)
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  29. #29

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Bertrand Duchafour is one of the most exciting, creative "noses" around. I
    loved his work at Eau d'Italie and now at L'Artisan. Amaranthine for Penhaligon
    was also amazing.
    Edmond Roudnitska also gets my vote for Eau Sauvage, Diorella, Le Parfum de
    Therese and Diorissimo.
    Finally, I admire Annick Menardo, Christine Nagel and Alberto Morillas.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Quote Originally Posted by Strollyourlobster View Post
    Certainly Patricia de Nicolai.
    Oh yes!

  31. #31

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Edmond Roudnitska
    Roger Pellegrino
    Jacques Polge
    Olivier Polge
    several members of the Guerlain and the Creed dynasties

  32. #32

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Jean Kerleo, Olivia Giacobetti and Chris Sheldrake. I don't think Sheldrake gets the credit he deserves.
    Evenstar

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Yes, I like the following noses; E. Roudniska, Calice Becker, Jean Claude Ellena and the Guerlains.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I'm adding Ernest Daltroff to my list of people to be worshipped.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Quote Originally Posted by arwen_elf View Post
    Jean Kerleo, Olivia Giacobetti and Chris Sheldrake. I don't think Sheldrake gets the credit he deserves.
    Yes Chris Sheldrake - he must be a genius of some kind.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  36. #36

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I second for RUMBA terrible! but all the other creations of Jean Claude Elena- the scavendger of odors, as he calls himself- attract me magically: everything of the HERMESSENCES,all the Jardins of HERMES,TERRE d' HERMES and my "husband" parfume Elixir des Merveilles, plus YSL "In love again", two fantastic summers of...I dont remember, I was young...In the contrary ,I dislike Polge's creations(Allure...)

  37. #37

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    Yes Chris Sheldrake - he must be a genius of some kind.
    I think his name will go down in history as one of the greats.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I like Sheldrake too, although the Datur Noir was so new and different for me and compelling that I had to have it, but now that I have owned it for a year, it's not so magnificent as it was in the little sample vial. I love Andy Taur's creations, some of them .
    Eliza
    (seems like vintage L'origan was made just for me)

  39. #39

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I just smelled Lolita Lampicka a few days ago. It attracted me at first sniff, and I mentally added it to The Acquisition List.

    And there was something oddly familiar about it. Something that felt "cool", along the lines of Arpege PH? No, more like Jaipur Homme. And something almond-y, reminding me of... what? Hypnotic Poison? (Another candidate for The List.)

    I couldn't quite put my finger on it, and it was driving me crazy. So I slept on it. Woke up and sniffed my arm. Ah! That was it! The vanilla. Same lovely vanilla as Bvlgari Black. Puzzle solved.

    And then I looked up Lolita and its nose here on BN. Well, go figure! All but Arpege PH are the work of Annick Ménardo. If I'm such a sucker for her gourmands, I mind as well blind buy Body Kouros while I'm at it!
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  40. #40
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    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Yes. There really must be something in the sensibilites or approaches by certain perfumers that draw us in. In fact it looks like we may even share our preferences. I read Hillaire's post and thought, "Yeah---what she said." Chant, E. Roudnitska and especially de Nicolai. And I'd cite the same fragrances she did! I guess this should come as no surprise. There are certain choreographers, visual artists, directors, etc who work always interests me and almost always appeals to me. I love the idea that the same notion applies to perfumers. It makes me await their next work and want to try their previous works. One more I have to add: Andy Tauer. I don't know all his work but I have and adore Lonestar Memories, Incense Rose and l'Air du Desert Marocain.
    jtd

  41. #41

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    olivier creed, henry creed II and III they made some of the nicest perfumes for women, I do not wear them but the works of art they made are how a woman of class and beauty should smell like.

  42. #42

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    I'll join the Germaine Cellier crowd.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Alberto Morillas is my guru, too.

    First I got Chic by Carolina Herrera. It was my first Eau de Parfum ever - I think I was 21 or so years old when I bought the bottle. Sadly I can't stand it anymore.. The second by Morillas was Armand Basi In Red which was given to me as a gift. Even though I didn't choose the scent myself, In Red has become my signature scent. I've emptied several bottles during the years it has been on the market. The third was Bulgari Omnia Crystalline which I bought on a whim from a department store sale.

    It was only a long time after when I became more interested about scents that I found out these fragrances had something in common. It felt like a revelation Afterwards I have tried to track down other perfumes made by Morillas. I've liked most of them but haven't of course collected all of them. For example, I like Flower by Kenzo but it somehow doesn't suit me, my style and personality. Strangely, like Petra Ischor, I don't like Miracle (Lancome) even though it is made by him. Its too sweet for my taste, like all Lancome's perfumes.

    I find the whole thing kinda funny: there are people who follow certain fashion designers, even though the designers might work for different fashion houses, there are (were?) "Blahnik women".. In the end, I guess I appreciate the same "aesthetics" as Mr. Morillas

  44. #44

    Default Re: Have you found you have a predeliction towards certain NOSES?

    Great topic! I would never have thought of to sample scent based on the creator.
    From what people are saying, there seems to be underlying current from creation to creation regardless of House. Much like a person can recognize a painting or sculpture based on certain clues. I wonder if by sampling scent based on Nose, a person would have a greater satisfaction rate than if that person tested based word of mouth? Interesting....I am off to sample Alberto Morillas and Jean-Pierre Bethouart!

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