Which ones have you had a chance to sample so far.
Thread: Xerjoff Sniffaroo / Samplings
It's my utmost pleasure to sample and explore this exquisite range of perfumes . Thank you Cairomerta and Sergio Momo who kindly mailed the entire line to me.
The website is www.xerjoff.com- i swooned at the bottles- they are works of art .
I will pass these on to actiasluna next as she PM'd me for them and in turn actiasluna may mail them to another basenoter to sample.
I have 18 perfumes from the Xerjoff Line and I will list out the 3 collections available to sample.
** In either natural quartz stone bottles or Murano glass - sounds wonderfully luxurious !
Casamorati 1888 Xerjoff Vintage Collection
** 2 NEW perfumes- Bouquet Ideale for Women and Fiero for men for this collection which Cairomerta will send to me - so it will be included in the set when I mail them to actiasluna.
Please see Dimitri's blog too for his excellent articles on Xerjoff fragrances:
Also a thread http://www.basenotes.net/threads/227...ciation-Thread
(Thanks Dimitri for this thread.... )
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 11th April 2010 at 12:42 AM.
Which ones have you had a chance to sample so far.
Casamorati 1888 Xerjoff Vintage ( love that word ! ) Collection
Mefisto EDP - sampled twice . Oriental - notes of italian bergamot,Grasse lavender,rose and iris. Really bright ,sparkling fresh opeing with that bergamot and lavender and then melds into the rose and iris. Long lasting ,airy- bright but tenacious. QUALITY ingredients for sure . It's very well blended ,progresses smoothly . Classically elegant ...in a word .....class. unisex,suave, very slightly powdery .
Fiore d'Ulivo EDP- sampled twice. Citrus -notes of lotus and olive flowers,jasmine, magnolia.The sample card says 'fresh,light and citrus'.
This is indeed a ' magical springtime potion' - it opens up citrussy , clean . I smell the olive and the lotus flowers but the jasmine and magnolia seem to meld together on my skin. It has a 'soapy' character- very fresh . Definitely evokes italian spring flowers and sunshine. Exquisite.
Both the EDPs last 4- 6 hours on my scent eating skin . Mefisto is more complex to me. Both are kind of enigmatic , classy .
These are definitely wearable by both men and women .
XJ 17/17 Collection
IRISSs. Parfum Concentration. Sampled twice.Yes- it's spelt that way - not one of my usual spelling errors. It lives up to its name. Oh My - this is GORGEOUS iris. Notes of iris,carrot seeds,rose ,ylang,ylang, rare woods,resins, incenses and musks.This was created with one of the most exclusive varieties of iris butter - as is stated on the card.
People- if you love iris, you will adore this. On my skin, this is iris,iris, iris- it's beautiful. Almost a soliflore .Wonderfully iris and slightly carroty opening - I mean I swooned. The carrot aspect goes quickly and it becomes powdery ,then buttery ,deeper and deeper. it's magic. I love this one very much.
Elle. Parfum Concentration. Sampled twice.Floral- oriental, Wood, Amber. Notes of citrus accents, galbanum resin, orange blossom,iris, leather of birch,woods, pathcouli,amber,musk and tonkiphora balm .
On my skin, this opens sweet, almost gourmand in sweetness. Within a few minutes, it calms ,the sweetness pulls back a little and I get ambery deep,woods and musk.Quite mysterious, tenacious ,much' thicker' in nature compared to Irisss ,Mefisto and Fiore d'Ulivo which are more ethereal.
A sexy,earthy siren perfume ! Well blended .
I have three words to sum these perfumes up so far- CLASS, QUALITY, ELEGANCE.
OK... another 14 to go ! *GRIN*
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 04:45 AM.
Thank you for your impressions! Can't wait to post my impression soon hopefully
I have a story regarding Irisss. I purchased the 50ml refill from Urban Retreat after falling in love with it at first sniff. I then sprayed myself liberally as I walked out. On the way to the hotel, I got a very similiar feeling to AG La Violette or The Unicorn Spell (two of the best violets out there). It turned to a powdery, green violet on my skin, so I decided to return Irisss. On the way back to Harrods, some guy came running behind me and snatched the Harrods bag from the hand and ran away so fast. When I realized I was mugged, I started to chase after him, even though he was long gone, and I started cursing and cursing. Some nice folks who witnessed the robbery, told me the thief grabbed a cab and fled the scene. The police told me that regrettably that there were no CCTV cameras where I was robbed. I returned to the Urban Retreat and told Benji the lovely SA about the incident, and he was so broken-hearted he actually got a little teary-eyed. He informed me that if the thief, or a female companion of the thief, came to return or exchange the item, he would notify me and the police. But alas, he didn't show up. So I kinda hope I don't fall in love with Irisss again, because I'm afraid I'll have to shell out another 350 GBP on it!
Last edited by scent; 9th April 2010 at 10:46 PM.
Thanks scent ! I'm trying to savor these ,trying not to rush through the sampling- they are great.
Wonderful reviews mysticknot - you make them all sound so incredible! I don't know how I'll manage to get IRISSs of my mind now - like an itch I know I should't scratch! The Fiore D'Ulivo also sounds divine. Thanks so much for calling our attention to these exquisite-sounding perfumes - I'll be eagerly awaiting your next installment!
Last edited by Evangeline; 9th April 2010 at 10:59 PM.
I had The Unicorn Spell ,Scent - it was very piercingly sweet and green, IRISSs doesn't strike me as similar. It's a better, much higher quality XXX iris perfume .... iris soliflore. It seems a travesty to compare it to anything really. I love the different aspects of iris it seems to cover. Carrotty,rooty earthy,then powdery ,then buttery , then depth.
Evangeline- these perfumes are quality ,quality ,quality ,from start to finish. Have you seen the bottles on the website ? Talk about wonderful art especially the quartz bottles.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 9th April 2010 at 11:54 PM.
cairomerta I have a question about the Refill Riserva Murano bottles. I'm loving the square design of the bottles. It says it comes with 30ml of parfum. Does it only come in 30ml or is the 50ml refill also included? What bottles come with several refills for "free"?
1) The murano Pochette glass. These are the smal egg shaped Murano bottles that come in 4 colors and each color has a scent attached to it. Blue is XXY, Black is Homme, Cristal is Irisss and golden color is Elle. These are 15ml. You can only get those like that
2) The other way is the Murano Collection (Not Pochette). The flacons come in amazingly decorated wooden boxes and an ebony stand. The colors are Blue, Red, Cristal, Green and Black. These you can choose any color flacon you want and any scent you want. The bottles bottles come empty but with the scent of your choice and you decant it into the flacon when you get it. The Murano is are 45-50ml because of the hand made nature of it but you get a 50ml worth of scent in a glass pour spout bottle with a funnel.
3) The reserva line which is a small boxy type with a stopper on it... I will have to check and get back to you on. They are great looking little bottles huh.
Towards fall, the 17/17 line will be introduced in 100ml glass bottles like the shooting stars line. They will have cut slab pieces put on the front of each bottle. They are beautiful and will be lower in price. I hope this helps.
Last edited by cairomerta; 10th April 2010 at 04:02 AM.
To continue on my sniffaroo of Xerjoff- I have worked my way through the XJ 17/17 Collection.
It's a treat ! It gets better and better.
XJ 17/17 - Homme . Parfum - highest concentration.Sampled on husband and sampled on myself. Leather-Wood .Notes of citrus,spices,cloves,lavender flowers,Lysilang,ylang ylang,leather, vetiver,woods.
OK- this is seriously sexy leather. It's immediate, strong, apparent .
The thought that comes to mind is a woodier ,less potent Onda by Vero Profumo. ( As much as I appreciate Onda as a quality perfume - I get TCP - in the UK - this is a strong, tenacious skin disinfectant. I apologise ! )
Onda I can't tolerate ( sorry ! ) but this is sexy - it never verges on the ' TCP' area ,but skims around it though staying quite tart - did I say that it's sexy ? Think -' strong gorgeous man on horseback' / or strong sexy woman on horseback ...... other imagery ... " sexy man / woman in spanky new Ferrari whith the best leather upholstery smell wafting ......"
On my husband it is manly, has that 'Grrrr' factor. *GRIN*
On me ,it's Marlene Dietrich I guess ! The vetiver I can smell and it just enhances this perfume. A+++ ! Strong, dynamic.
*Primrose- I think this is up your street ,lady !
Lysilang is robertet fraction of Ylang oil - searched for and taken from the Official Basenotes Xerjoff thread.
XJ 17/17 XXY. Parfum - highest concentration. Sampled,tested once this evening ,as a going out fragrance. Chypre- Oriental to me. Notes of black pepper,patchouli,bergamot,jasmine,amber,woods.
It has a delicious citrus opening ,almost savory ,bright ,alittle black pepper that comes in , the pepper gets stronger on me and stays ,swirled in with the pathcouli and jasmine . Lovely drydown - I get pepper, patchouli ,amber ,woods . Opens bright, turns down on volume ,still pulsates beautifully on my skin.
** The XJ 17/17 Collection samples are ALL parfum versions so you're in for treat with these.
I love how these parfums are totally unisex. Even Homme could be used by a woman .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 05:14 AM.
OMG Mysticnot, I am seriously watching this thread. I don't feel expert enough to sample and share opinions, but I WILL be sampling these on my own as they become available here. These sound fabulous and rich, something that intrigues me to no end.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 05:15 AM.
Great review on homme mystic. I love that one. It is the best leather scent I have ever smelled. I am actually really intrigued about how it developed on you. With the name homme many women shy away from it but it's great to hear that you tried it and it worked great on you!
I am actually going to be sending you another set of the entire line mystic and you can send it to the next person on your PM list. Let me know if that's ok.
I also have two more openings for a free sample set of the womens line. Just PM me your address and it will go out on Monday.
Last edited by cairomerta; 10th April 2010 at 06:20 AM.
PS: It may also worth noting that the 4 new XerJoff Shooting Stars scents in the silk pouches are available for sale here in Europe at www.ausliebezumduft.de at a price of €200 for 50ml.
Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 10th April 2010 at 06:19 AM.
Cairomerta- you just maybe right- XJ 17/17 Homme is a wonderful leather scent.
Dimitri- Cheers back. I love your writing on Xerjoff. Which brings me to The Shooting Stars Collection .............
Modoc. For men ( but really unisex I think ) EDP. Chypre . Tested on husband and tested on myself.Green ,floral ,amber,woody. Notes of Vetiver, butter of Florentine iris ( sounds yummy ) ,wood musk.
When I first applied this the vetiver and iris just pops out - it's deliriously good. The vetiver and iris are warmed ;rounded by the ambery woody musky notes. It goes on strong,spicey,smooth and distinctive -it stays like that with the vetiver being most prominent on me .
Equally good on my husband as on me. A rich perfume in notes and character. It's quite a 3 dimensional perfume - long lasting. There is a little sweetness- nothing heavy or gourmand - just 'wood sweet'.
Dimitri calls it 'captivating' and 'deliciously velvety' in his article and I have to agree.
Dhofar. For men. ( aw... c'mon- it's unisex ! ) EDP. Aromatic fougere ? Tested on myself. Notes of lavender, pine needles,Jatamansi ( muskroot ) ,orange flowers,carnation,amber, australian sandalwood, Ciste Labdanum .
( Dhofar is a region in south Oman ,next to Yemen. Frankincense is what it was known for )
Starts off really fresh and spicey on my skin - must be the pine needles and gradually the lavender takes over, the carnation is gorgeous and adds to the spicy kick,lovely labdanum. I swear I get cinnamon too !
This is a calming fragrance, a mind clearing, calming fragance with notes like lavender, jatamansi ( which is used for ayurveda to aid the mind and balance the body ) ..labdanum . Quite centering. I love it. Spiritual and evokes the exotic middle east. This is quite an interesting fragrance- soulful .A++++
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 04:05 PM.
The Casamorati range if I remember correctly from when I enquired comes in 75ml and not refillable. Their bottle design has also changed becuase the ones they were using a while ago were porcelain and porous. There are also two other fragrances in the Casamorati range which I don't think have been mentioned yet on here, these are BOUQUET IDEALE for Women and FIERO for men, which I am very eager to try.
I'm eager to give these a sniff but honestly those 'ultra-luxe' bottles are just plain ugly, and the names are horrendous. I'm a bit worried that these scents and people's impressions of them may be built more around hype and expectations rather than reality.. but then a lot of respected noses say these are some quality scents.
I don't know though. I think Xerjoff's attempts at being ultra-luxe are cheesier, and more poorly realized, than even Clive Christian.
Any counterpoint opinions out there or am I really to believe that every Xerjoff scent is basically 'best of category?"
edit: The XJ and shooting stars colletions' bottles are ok. Those Casamorati bottles are horrible, though.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 10th April 2010 at 06:34 PM.
Iris Pallida 50ml
Ungaro I 75ml
and more! - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more
You are correct Craig. The Casamorati 1888 line only comes in the 75ml size. All the bottles are made of hand finished Tuscan glass, meaning all the bottles that come of the small batch assembly line are hand flames by a person to remove any defects from the bottle. They are also hand painted and even down to the celophane wrapping on the outside of the box is hand wrapped. There are 2 new ones like you mentioned (fiero in a green bottle and bouquet ideale in a red bottle) really wonderful scent.
I don't pretend to be a respected nose- just a basenoter who is enthusiastic about fragrance but I DO know quality when I see and smell it. As for the bottles, I do find them works of art epecially with the quartz stone bottles - my gemological training predisposes me to loving that kind of art.
Each to their own but I think these perfumes,the ones I have sampled so far- are excellent.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 10:33 PM.
Tobacco Oroville EDP.For men. Green floral ?? Sampled twice.Notes of roman chamomile,clary sage,orange flowers,italian neroli,carnation,tobacco leaves from Cuba, Mysore Sandalwood,galbanum,vanilla,amber, white musks. This opens up spicey ,herby on my skin - it's quite an unusual fragrance,strong at first. A lot of the spice is coming from the carnation I think - it's a lovely mix of herb and warm spice with the carnation kick. Quite complex,quite sexy I think .
** On the website ,this perfume is just called Oroville but on the sample and in the little description on the website - it is called Tobacco Oroville.
Uden EDP.For men. Sampled twice. Citrus ( on me ) . Notes of citrus, guaico wood,rum absolute,coffee, amber, vanilla. I love this one. It remains mostly citrus to me but it's the combination of citrus, vanilla and amber that appeals to me so much . I wonder if there is a little musk in this too. Quite beautiful . Fresh ,very wearable. As it dries down ,it reminds of the opening citrus of Nasomatto Silver Musk which I was crazy for at one time. Gets a little more woody as it progresses. Lovely ! Perfect lasting citrus ,woody, light musk .
Kobe EDP. For men. Sampled twice.Citrus- Oud- Wood. Notes of citrus,Italian neroli, petitgrain from Paraguay,rose woods, balsamic resins,Calabrese bergamot, Florida oranges.
This is one of my favorites and surprsingly it has Oud in it- not one of my liked notes ! Although the website says this is citrus, I would have to say it is more oriental on my skin . When I first apply this perfume, the petitgrain is amazing- I love petitgrain. Then it whoa ! 'what's that lovely smell now ?'....which turned out to be a smooth and soft but persistent Oud ! ( Not a big Montale Oud ) Beautiful, refined,broody even.
I even get a little incense. So it begins fresh and bright, progresses to Oud and becomes this warm ,soft and persistent fragrance. Alittle exotic ,very wearable again by both men and women .
Nio EDP.For men. Sampled twice.Herb-Grass-Citrus.Notes of citrus,neroli,Calabrian bergamot,spicey notes,cardomom,nutmeg,rose pepper,cedar,guiaco woods,haiti vetiver,Indian patchouli.
What I am noticing about the Xerjoff citrussy scents is that although these are 'light' in character ,they persist in strength which is a good thing . On applicaton , this is very aromatic grassy ,a little herby ,fresh . There is little, very little spice to this on my skin.The citrus never goes away and is joined by cedar. Like walking in the morning on fresh tall grass ,near lemon trees. Zesty !
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 11th April 2010 at 04:00 PM.
You know, Uden was the first scent I had ever purchased from Xerjoff and I was crazy for it. I actually picked it up on a trip to Harrods and it was from that one scent, that I went crazy for the line. Xerjoffs scents have an amazing way of keeping the citrus notes prominent throughout the entire development. Most perfumes citrus notes fade away very fast.
With Kobe, that is one of the most unique citrus incense combination I have smelled. It has a thick resinous feel to it but is cut just wonderfully with that pettitgrain note that once again last all throughout the development! This one has amazing sillage.
With Oroville, I was actually sent that by Sergio before it was even released so that I can sample and I thought it was such a unique tobacco scent with the carnation in it. It had a freshness in it that I never experienced in a tobacco scent before. The tobacco in it is like a fresh wet tobacco, not the dried out cigar type. Really unique take on tobacco!
I realize I use the word unique a lot when describing the line because they really do have a uniqueness that I havent smelled in perfume before. Xerjoff doesn't shy away from making a statement with the perfumes. They are not thin watery scents. You really get rich decadent perfumes with this line.
Last edited by cairomerta; 11th April 2010 at 05:03 PM.
Cairomerta- you are right about the strength of the citrus scents. The citrus never goes away - it's so unusual for citrus to last and last like that. Attests to the quality of the materials. They do last and last.
For example- Oroville - lasted through my shower ! When I applied some at night, it was still faintly there in the morning and it's EDP.
I just love Kobe ! it's incensey isn't it ?! Oroville is quite unique too - like you said.
There's not a bad one for me so far, Cairomerta. Quite amazing.
Each has its own character .
I've been sampling two from the ladies' selection from The Shooting Stars Collection this evening. As I have come to expect from this line- these two are interesting,memorable,unusual and lasting.
I read online that each one of these perfumes takes over a year to create and with 10-12 corrections /testings.
I could not help uploading this picture.
Shingl EDP. Oriental. Notes of bergamot,basil, anise,iris,rum,vanilla,amber and musk. The only way I can describe how this perfume smells at first ,from the opening notes- is 'shiny' - it's a very shiny- ( like sun reflected off metal ) fragrance. The opening to me is herby bright and especially the anise strikes immediately .Then it becomes it's semi-sweet -almost fruity and the rum adds that bit of edge. Very tenacious with depth. So on me, it's rum-anise-amber-vanilla. A lovely fragrance which I think a man could pull off too . Very lasting - I can imagine two good sprays of this would be sufficient for quite some time! Anise + rum are the big players here - it's a good combination -a good cocktail !
I find it uplifting and fresh in some ways. You must like anise to love this- I do love anise.
Dhajala EDP. Floral Oriental. Notes of orange blossom,orange, galbanum,jasmine,rose pepper ,wood,Tonkiphora balsam,amber, Myroswelia Balsam .
( Both Tonkiphora Balsam and Myroswelia Balsam come from Robertet - a natural aroma / fragrance and flavor company,if I am right. )
***This fragrance has an appropriate name for the Shooting Stars collection because Dhajala in India is where pieces of a meteorite landed in 1976 !
This perfume opens big ,bold floral and some sweet orange on me,kept a little green with the galbanum.Then it calms down after a few minutes and the spicey notes pick up ,it gets smoother -hard for me to get the jasmine. The green remains in the background throughout this perfume. It's more woody incense as you go to the drydown. Lovely deep and broody,warm, slightly green drydown- like floral ,green/herbal forest-woody, incense in drydown. I like this very much . This is quite a bold fragrance.
This perfume progresses so the drydown is quite a contrast from the opening in many ways. I find the drydown extremely sniffable and addictive .
After sniffing and wondering - the drydown reminds me a little of Ormonde Jayne Woman ...or even Absinth by Nasomatto in some aspects.Mysterious,addictive, greenish incense magic elixir! ( I hope my sniffer is not going awry ! )
Actually I love both so what can I do ??? Different personalities ,both beauties,both unisex ! Again ! A man could easily pull both off .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 12th April 2010 at 05:56 AM.
The names of the shooting stars line are based on regions where there have been known metoerite activity. The names to me are actually quite intriguing. Note some examples.
Dhofar is a region in Yemen where there is recently discovered to be rich in meteorites.
The Ibitira meteroite fell in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil on 30 June 1957 between 5:00 and 5:30 local time.
Uden was a meteroite which was witnessed to fall in the southern Dutch province of Noord Brabant on June 12, 1840, between 10 and 11 am local time.
Esquel is a pallasite meteorite found near Esquel, a patagonian town in the northwest part of the province of Chubut (Argentina)
Modoc was a Meteorite Shower at Modoc, Kansas
It goes on and on. So the names are true to the theme of the line and are actually based on locations and regions of actually meteorite showers.
Last edited by cairomerta; 12th April 2010 at 06:13 AM.
Thanks cairomerta - I find that fascinating !
Oesel EDP. For men ( really unisex ! ) Floral -oriental Sampled twice. I don't know how I figured this was a ladies' perfume - it's actually listed in The Shooting Stars Collection under the men's selection.
Notes of lemon,orange blossom,petitgrain from Paraguay, Bulgarian rose, Jasmine Sambac, acacia and white flowers,ambergris,wood,Indian patchouli,cedarwood,tabacco flowers.
I don't think I can adequately describe how symphonically beautiful the opening of this perfume is - white flowery orange blossom interlaced with that fabulous petitgrain and lifted with a touch of lemon .That petitgrain is key - a fab note here! It's unisex - no doubt. You could be seduced by the first few minutes of this perfume alone !
The progression of this perfume to drydown is addictive -it becomes less flowery ,more woodsy,ambery and that touch of cedar. You want to keep sniffing and sniffing. Quite enigmatic . It melds into a golden smell . Gets a little warm powdery in the drydown - with a hint of a tabacco note- the ambergris and the tobacco flowers maybe.
THIS is a great perfume - so well made . Again it lasts. Wonderful - hats off to the perfumer.
Esquel EDP. For women ( really you can interchange all the men's and the ladies' perfumes ) Fougere- Floral-Aromatic. Sampled twice. Notes of Iris,rose pepper,rose absolute,woods,patchouli heart, vanilla,oppoponax,Fava Tonka. I also get lemon, some lavender.
Bright, energetic,zesty floral opening with the iris and lemon plus lavender. The Xerjoff description doesn't mention citrus notes or lavender but swear it's in this perfume. The opening turns almost savory which kind of reminds me a little of Jicky ( though it is not that similar apart from the lavender ) Gorgeous. If you like the Jicky fougere style- you will love this one. So I would describe this as a sharp,elegant,nearly savory lavender- lemon fougere. The vanilla and oppoponax just warm it up a touch so it's not too tart and adds some depth to this perfume.
Non conformist ! For the independent thinking woman. This perfume will give you a clear calm mind ,for sure, with that lemon and lavender.
Men - you will love this too .
I keep repeating myself when I say this- there not one bad offering in this collection here. All are different but the quality shines through.Bravo ,bravo !
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 12th April 2010 at 11:32 PM.