Thread: Xerjoff Sniffaroo / Samplings
I just got the men's set today, thanks Cairo.
I'm really looking forward to testing these. Quick sniffs from the vial reminded me of a few different scents - Himalaya/SMW, Pour Le Jeune Homme, and most noticeably Oesel smells *very* similar to Fleur Du Male. I'm especially looking forward to testing Oesel.. if it's like Fleur du Male but less synthetic (one of the few scents whose synthetic quality really does start to bother me, especially with its 24+ hour longevity) I may be looking to pick some up.
Testing will start soon.
Iris Pallida 50ml
Ungaro I 75ml
and more! - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more
Hey everyone, please support my Official Xerjoff USA page. I will keep everyone updated with new information, new releases as well as cool giveaways compliments of Xerjoff USA!!!
Last edited by cairomerta; 25th April 2010 at 09:21 AM.
I received my samples today! Again thanks to cairomerta who has put a lot of time and effort into sending the samples Will post my thoughts ASAP!
Please read this Quick Note:
Since I am a longtime basenoter as well as the new owner of Xerjoff USA, I feel its my duty to make the Xerjoff experience with everyone here as personalized as possible. I owe a lot to this forum over the years in regards to learning about perfumes and exploring so many lines that I would never have found without the help of this forum and so many people on this forum.
Because of that, in 2 weeks (Moday May 10th) , I will be giving away 2 bottles of Xerjoff compliments of Xerjoff USA and Xerjoff Italy. One women's bottle (Fiore D'Ulivo and One mens Mefisto) This is a thank you for everyone's time and efforts to review the scents and share their honest opinions and feelings in regards to the line. I will use a random # generator and the number who's post (one in the mens forum and one in the women's) matches the number generated will win.
I intend to make Xerjoff's service and personal experience in the USA and to you all different than any other line in the USA because I am a member of this forum first before anything else.
cairomerta, that's awesome!
I just started my sample tests this afternoon and they started off with the Xerjoff XJ 17/17 XXY.
This one has an elegant start, spicy and white flowery (without a hint of the "skank" but...) enough creamy, buttery jasminey/ylang ylangy black peppery/bergamot oomph to get your attention... and the heart I swear at a certain point smells JUST LIKE Mitsuoko on my skin... I'm kind of waiting for the drydown now and am hoping the base comes up a little more, as after its Mitsuoko-esque stage it went a little underground. It's still there, and is a scent I would definitely wear ... to a formal occasion or to work ... I'm wondering if my allergy-ridden nose is a little anosmic today. I am getting no patchouli, but there are hints that a patchouli note might be coming up a little, but not the earthy hippie patchouli...a woodier patchouli.
Overall so far, this is a very smooth, feminine, velvety but not powdery, slightly fruity, spicy and floral scent... I am thinking that the woody nature is a little "hidden" under the rest and will emerge once the bases "arrive"... that said, I am getting a spicy wood sillage from this at the moment that is quite lovely.
(edit) But no, the base is somewhat thin and fading on me... still a little floral/lightly fruity and slightly woody, though, and I'm not getting amber at all. If the base were as nice as the top and heart, this would be fabulous. If it re-emerges in a couple hours I will edit again.)
(2nd edit) The XXY is subtly present on my left hand, doing a kind of sensuous pas-de-deux with the X Homme on my right. For a subtle, refined, feminine scent that is more for the wearer's enjoyment than for that of another (unless an intimate other), I am thinking XXY is quite nice! A very pleasing skin scent in the 4-hr. drydown stage.
With the (sinus issues) disclaimer, I must say that XXY is a lovely, elegant perfume, at least for the top and heart... would be great for a somewhat brief (2 hours-ish) social engagement requiring some restraint in scent...) and I do keep smelling my hand, even after the drydown has "settled."
Last edited by actiasluna; 27th April 2010 at 04:47 AM. Reason: additional info.
I also got a piece of good news -- Ms. ComDiva PMed me and she would LOVE to sniff them all and send them all to Evangeline after she is done. On my end, I will mail them out tomorrow.
XXY has been on ComDiva's To Try list for over a year now, BTW.
Cairomerta, that's very generous of you. Matter of fact, almost unheard of generous. Hats off to you, dear, and bestest of luck in your passion! ;-)
Last edited by Twolf; 27th April 2010 at 01:39 AM.
Now on to XJ 17/17 HOMME...
On first sniff… leather to the fore, with clove, and a soapy accord…maybe the lavender note, but it is far beneath the leather/clove. Saddles, baseball gloves, oiled. Pipe tobacco comes to mind but is not topmost in the notes… the soapy, freshly-oiled leather is quite strong. Very masculine, if the ylang ylang is present it's the rubber notes of that flower, not the white flower petal. The leather/tobacco notes are coming up stronger now, the soapiness subsiding...just minutes after applying this. Lisylang's watery floral might be present, but it smells like wet leather in this scent, which is a good thing indeed. Powerful…and herbaceous all at the same time as the scent reaches its heart. Indeed, there is a ylang ylang presence behind the very potent leather, and it keeps the clove from becoming too strong… sweetens (but not in a sweet CANDY sense, more a smooth leathery spicy sense) the mix.
There is a woodiness below all the other notes that is intriguing and brings to mind a memory, though I can not say exactly what that memory is… the leather is so aromatic, with that spicy floral undertone… that it is distracting me! Cigar box wood? Cedar? Not quite either.
I have got to say that this may be the ultimate realistic (in terms of evocatively realistic) leather perfume!
It has a little of the feel of Bvlgari Black's new rubber, leather and tea (but more leather than new tire rubber)... a little of the feel of Chergui's leather and tea (but less tobacco and more rubber)...
I will be interested in seeing how this develops overnight!
(And on the other hand, the XXY is still present, still elegant, and still slightly-woody-spicy floral with a hint of fruit. Lovely in its own right, and a perfect feminine counterpoint to the masculinity of the X Homme.)
Last edited by actiasluna; 27th April 2010 at 03:14 AM.
I love how all the women are loving the HOMME so much. Goes to show that there is no such thing as a men's and women's scent!!
XJ Casamorati Bouquet Ideale
This scent reminds me of elements from both J. Peterman's E.M. Ca' d'Oro and Rajasthan, which are both quite good warm night scents but not with as much "oomph" as this on my skin. This is a Masked Ball in Venice, crowded and warm, with swarthy men carrying censers of Myrrh moving through the crowds. This is the balcony, where the warm spicy incense wafts out from the party, and you take a break to catch a scent of flowered, fruity air.
Warm spicy sweet heady floral - (the artwork suggests that should be rose? if so, it is dark spicy soft-scented rose), with cooler fragrant purple grape, warm sweet hay and warm woody notes very prominent in the top. …amberic/balsamic… drying down to the heart which brings up what I'm smelling as purple grape, which cools a little, like a breeze on a very warm night… then heats back up with a sweet amberic muskiness.
A warm amber vanilla with a spicy dry myrrh at the base... and warm woody notes anchoring that even deeper.
A scent for the night, would make cooler evenings seem warm. Sensual and deep with occasional "cooler breezes" from the very softly ripe purple grape.
I can see this being a unisex scent.
Edit: As the drydown goes even further, the vanilla/amber/myrrh seems to me to have softened, and almost a soft, dark, cocoa side is coming through. Perhaps that's just how my nose perceives it in comparison/conjunction with the Fiero, which is on my other hand (and reviewed below.)
Last edited by actiasluna; 28th April 2010 at 02:55 AM. Reason: more development! More Embellishment!
double posting I see... (well, this is a different Xerjoff scent review anyway, so...) :-)
XJ Casamorati Fiero
Soapy, sweet herbaceous, somewhat aquatic top, spicy softly oily floral, bergamot/lavender, a slight sweet lily of the valley note over a soft leathery, slight sweet/musty… "traditional masculine just-showered-shaved-and applied a nice cologne" clean overall impression. There may not be a "bay rum like" note to this but there is that "sense"… perhaps a little clove note along with the herbaceous notes.
Heart is leathery, still soapy… still slight sweet soft floral… a little more of the "bay rum clove" impression, the "bay" is more like sage to me with a tinge of bitterness to counteract the sweetness of the receding topnotes… with some woodiness coming up. Somewhat like AdP Blu Mediterraneo Mirto di Panarea at this stage, an airy but warm, sweet/bitter floral spicy woodiness. The initial clean/soapy note seems to be drying down to that myrtle/spice/wood/leather/clove. In a way, the heart has more of a citrus feel, bergamot in particular, than the top.
The basenotes are coming up leather and "smoothing out" of the soap… to a clean, airy, slightly woody and soft scent.
As stated above, "traditionally masculine"… but I would love to wear it myself and feel it would be striking on a woman. It simply smells clean, warm, airy, (and somewhat warmly aquatic) and darned good.
And I'm sure I'll chime in again about the later stages of the base! (indeed, here I am.) This morning, it was still lingering, a slight leather/wood... nothing "stale". I love when a scent reminds you sweetly first thing in the morning that it was there the night before...
Last edited by actiasluna; 29th April 2010 at 12:09 AM.
I do like how Fiero brings in a certain leathery warmth to the citrus notes. Compared to Mefisto, the other Casamorati for men, which is a really citrusy lavender scent, this takes the citrus note and adds a lot more warmth. Both are beautiful in their different ways. They really do have an old school vibe which is what the basis of the line.
Whoahoo! IRISss on my skin…
Starts with a powerful, forward spicy powdery floral with a little bite, on the top. (I'm not a fan of strong florals, this one has the potential for making me a little sneezy.) The initial (one second out of the sample tube) Bergamot was immediately overpowered by the definite burst of FLORAL… Iris, spicy carrot seed, and a little more Iris. Earthy undertones and a little nice aromatic cedar (as in pencil shavings) note there… (disentangled the florals maybe… jasmine and ylang ylang just singing at the top… The rose is "there" but only just, behind the other notes.) As the top dries down, the scent becomes spicier and just a little bit sweeter, with further hints of earthiness.
The only other Iris scent I have in my wardrobe is Prada Infusion d'Iris… which is like a concentrated scent of Iris flower to my nose, sweeter and less complex than IRISss.
I'm beginning to get a sense that there is a Xerjoff base "juice" as I test more of these scents… there is a common underlying accord in these that I have yet to suss out. For the Luxe women's parfums, it is reminds me a lot of Guerlinade. And yes, the heart of IRISss is somewhat reminiscent of that. (and I did get another "wow this smells just like Mitsuoko" moment from this one.)
In the base, the woodier incense notes seem to be coming on. There's still the Iris root and flower are still there… the ylang ylang lending a jasminey note… still with the "bite" of the initial impression of the topnotes. Less powdery and perhaps that is the rose, still there.
As with the other Xerjoffs, I'm sure I'll be back to further describe the base.
This would be my favorite Xerjoff of the luxe women's line so far… XXY was "okay" but not a stunner, maybe a little weak in the heart for my tastes. IRISss is not my preferred parfum type, but it has very lovely moments and is indeed powerful and still refined and complex.
Edit: Yes... the base is very subtle now 5-1/2 hours later, a soft slightly woody musk. I never got a hint of frankincense from this as on the descriptive sample card... As with the XXY the later stages of both the Xerjoff Luxe women's parfums I've tested seem more like special occasion scents, not meant to last forever, but with a beautiful start and hints that it was there, later. (again, tomorrow morning I will see if the base lingers.)
Last edited by actiasluna; 29th April 2010 at 03:11 AM.
Xerjoff has been in the picture more & more, right? Good on them. I've only managed to sample Fiori d'Ulive so far, which didn't agree with me. Too... shampoo-y? I dunno. Something just didn't mesh with what I'd hoped it'd be.
It is known that there are an infinite number of worlds, simply because there is an infinite amount of space for them to be in. However, not every one of them is inhabited. Any finite number divided by infinity is as near nothing as makes no odds, so the average population of all the planets in the Universe can be said to be zero. From this it follows that the population of the whole Universe is also zero, and that any people you may meet from time to time are merely products of a deranged imagination.
Today I'm sampling ELLE...
I liked this before I put it on my skin, right upon opening the vial. It has a lovely strength and smoothness to it that I find very attractive. Color-wise, this would be a clear, sunny gold. Weather... a bright breezy spring day (not unlike today).
The floral citrus start is quite lovely and ... how can I say this? Sophisticated... ageless. I'm reacting more emotionally to this scent than to other Xerjoffs I've tested so far. This scent makes me smile. And it is to my mind quite feminine. (I believe men who like a lighter, slightly sweeter floral scent might find this wearable.)
The heart is indeed an iris-leather-wood... I love that the patchouli notes in the Xerjoffs are smooth and soft and not dirty (as "dirty" patch wouldn't fit in these.) There is a smooth subtlety to the drydown that almost makes this seem "linear" but not in a nondimensional way, in the same way that, for example, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle keeps coming up with slight variations on the topnotes all the way through to the base.
I don't find anything soapy or powdery about this parfum at all... just a shimmering clear impression of a beautiful spring floral, with a softening, yet still clear very soft musk with very soft amber/faint vanilla/faint myrrh in the base.
Very pretty indeed.
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Thank you, everyone who has sampled, for posting such detailed and informed reviews. These sound so lovely!
Green-tea like out of the vial… immediately get a lovely bergamot citrus note and a not unlike Aqua di Parma Colonia Intensa's top (but softer.) Do I smell mandarin? It's a nice fresh not too sweet opening. Since I have no reference for Lotus and Olive (other than russian olive which is very strong but NOT anything like I'm smelling here) I can only say that what I'm smelling is a little spicy and tea-like floral bouquet… with hints of damp earth (the LOVELY smell of damp earth)… which means to me the Jasmine may be emerging.
Another comparison to Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Mirto di Panarea in the heart … and I'm smelling a woody subtle possible magnolia here as well as the spicy jasmine.
Doesn't last that long for me but that's an issue I have with many scents. The drydown may be a little too "quiet" on my dryish skin as a result. And I haven't been moisturizing the day I wore this... so if I get a chance I'll try it again after unscented moisturizer's applied.
Nice though. (Edit It indeed stuck around longer on well-moisturized skin... and the drydown is very pretty, slightly spicy and delicately floral like a good jasmine tea.
Last edited by actiasluna; 5th May 2010 at 12:30 AM.
Xposted to men's frag forum...Xerjoff Reviews thread...
Another tea-like opening not unlike but not as floral as Fiore d'Ulivo…and spicy tea at that. Creamy spicy tea with a little bergamot, this is a nice Earl Grey. Bergamot coming to the fore now, and yes, maybe that is a little very lovely and nonmedicinal lavender in there. It's not screaming lavender but is blended very nicely with the bergamot… I think rose is the tea-like note too… this smells more like a fine Earl Grey tea than anything else to my nose. Just compared the heart with the top on the other hand and the lavender is there, only just apparent at the beginning, just such a nice blending with the other notes.
The heart is definitely a soft rose/iris, with the bergamot singing softly in the background…this is a softly rich floral heart with a hint of spiciness. Quite understated, elegant, quiet.
I'm going to moisturize my hands and reapply this, as it's really 'dying' now on my skin… so that I can give a better report. It still smells really nice but it's only been a half hour since I applied it, and it seems to have gone to the base notes and be fading rapidly.
After moisturizing… yes, the scent is faring better on my skin now. This is one SMOOTH operator… I'm imagining an Armani-suited individual who wears this scent …someone who wears quality but doesn't make a point of flaunting it. The slightly spicy, (and yes, ever so slightly leathery) iris and rose are singing from my skin. Very summery and light, and I imagine amazingly Italian.
I really have nothing else to compare it to, but there were moments of the rose from Montale Black Aoud (sans the oud, but with the Iris woodiness) here. It has that same lovely darkness about it… like a warm summer night.
Edit: I can say that it has analagous notes to the Fiore d'Ulivo... it's the nighttime, while Fiore d'Ulivo the daytime.
We'll see how its longevity is, but this is a lovely scent that would be a great unisex perfume.
Last edited by actiasluna; 3rd May 2010 at 11:29 PM.
Just a quick Reminder:
Next Monday the 10th I will be giving away one bottle of Mefisto for men and Fiore D'Ulivo for women compliments of Xerjoff. the winner will be chosen by a random # generator. The winning number will correspond to the review number in each of the Woman's and Mens Xerjoff reviews thread. Anyone who received samples, get your reviews in and increase your odd to win. This is just a little thank you from to you all for you time to review.
How many companies would you see give away a bottle of one scent. never mind two? A huge thumbs up to Xerjoff and Cairomerta, superb
Xposted from the Men's Forum
Disclaimer: I have to admit that this one had my nose VERY confused. (probably because it's a scent out of my "comfort zone", and because, after all, I am an amateur at this.) So, in an attempt to "unconfuse" it, I consulted heavily both Cairomerta's mention of the notes in this one, and some other sources for references to help me learn more about this type of scent. Whenever I went "what in the world IS that" after four or five sniffs, I consulted.
The impression at the very first is definitely a pipe tobacco even when it seems only to be the clary sage that is up front, starts very strong giving a sweet, slightly soapy nature to the top. Not a strong orange top, in other words, not a fresh citrus blast like Acqua di Parma's scents.
As it settles I can only just get hints of the stated orange and camomile, the soapiness going more spicy… a spicy sweet/woody/green floral note with tobacco and sandalwood under it and a little somewhat peppery sharpness. My nose isn't "getting" orange blossom but it could be contributing to the sweetness. This reminds me of another scent that is strong and soapy (that strong soapy-sweet- top reminds me more of JHL without what I smell in JHL as clove/rose, and (Edit) actually after giving it some time), of the emerging heart of AdP Colonia Assoluta Like two short phases of each of those scents' heart notes.)
The tobacco never comes FORWARD but seems only "suggested" as this continues to unfold. Hints of something salty and the sandalwood (at one point I felt like I was actually in a room full of sandalwood incense, the sandalwood is so strong on my skin.) The sweet elements in this perfume are to me a little overpowering… this has so much happening on my skin that is sweet, spicy, woody, musky, soapy, slightly peppery… my amateur nose doesn't really know what to make of it all.
The base does have a definite saltiness backing everything up, presumably that's a note of the ambergris… I'm not getting vanilla at all with this but that may not yet have emerged. But the base is definitely a salty note with a little light musk, and now, yes, vanilla combining softly to make this base seem a little, and this could be just the vanilla and the salt, but it smells ever so slightly cookie/biscuit/biscotti-esque. (crazy, huh.) Not FOODY, just as though you're out in the warm sun and have just snacked on something baked, and the salt from the baked goods and your skin have combined with the vanilla and other flavoring, and you catch that scent on your hand.
And the baked-goods note of the saltiness alternates with a slightly animalic salty. I love the way horses smell when you groom them after an exercise, and this has TINY hints of that. And of course, that makes me think that there may be hints of leather beneath all of it, saddle soap and freshly cleaned leather, but VERY light... that could just be the combination of all those other notes!
Anyway, that's how my nose "saw it" and two hours in, the base is there. My emotional association with this scent is in how it reminds me of an uncle who pretty much smelled like this. He always visited freshly-shaven and smelling like the soapy-clary sage top notes that are in this one.
Not one I would choose for myself (would choose it for a guy, most likely) but this seems like an interesting and complex scent nonetheless. (and took me on a little educational journey in the process. How cool is that?)
Last edited by actiasluna; 5th May 2010 at 01:17 AM.
Actiasluna, I read your reviews with great interest, which does not necessarily mean that I agree with everything. Please keep them coming, you are natural!
Other FOUR women that were recepients of cairomerta's generosity -- please post your opinions of the scents. If you are bloggers -- please provide links. Once again, it is only fair.
I have sent my 10 vials to ComDiva and they should be reaching her any day now.
On the men's Xerjoff review thread Cairo described for me what he thought I was smelling, or why I wasn't "getting" the tobacco note, other than the initial "my mental impression of Dolly Mixtures from my youth" pipe tobacco...
Today I'm testing OESEL and I'm going to simplify... I like it.
(okay, I'll go a little into what I like about it... one thing I notice about most of the Xerjoffs is their smoooootthhhness... the scents blend seamlessly into one another and the stages of development do as well. Maybe that was what was throwing me about Oroville, there was a lot more "movement" there to me than with the other scents, if that makes sense.)
Anway in OESEL the initial orange blossom/citrus is indeed there to my nose and nice creamy but not too sweet with the hints of citrus around it... and it settled down into a lovely creamy, heady smooth floral again with a little spiciness to it. (and the Xerjoff ingredients ARE obiously very quality and smell quite natural to me.) The patchouli underneath is floating up and is quite nice. This is SO pretty! I do get a hint of a nutty, vanilla edge to the floral... and yes, it does have a woody base that is just lovely. Clean, sweet, spicy, lovely. Strong but not overpowering... smooth and present.
Sampling ESQUEL tonight.
This is the Xerjoff so far that has made me say OH MY GOD THAT'S GOOD!...
Read more: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/250...z0nD3IHqOkThis is so very lovely on my skin... it is just gorgeous! (the Xerjoff notes...Iris, rose pepper and Rose absolute laying on a mellow woody base of Patchouly heart, vanilla and a exquisite Opoponax & Fava Tonka ) ... spicy loveliness!
Last edited by actiasluna; 7th May 2010 at 03:10 AM.
OK, Here is the info everyone is waiting for.... The noses behind this line. All Robertet. (Of Course every one of these scents were under the strict direction and vision of Sergio. He is very picky and knows exactly what he is looking for when he creates a new scent)
--- 17/17 Collection ---
ELLE Nose: Christian Rostain
HOMME Nose: Jacques Flori
XXY Nose: Jacques Flori
Irisss Nose: Jacques Flori
SHOOTING STARS COLLECTION
For her :
ESQUEL Nose: Jacques Flori
SHINGL Nose: Christian Rostain
DHAJALA Nose: Jacques Flori
IBITIRA Nose: Jacques Flori
For him :
DHOFAR Nose: Jacques Flori
MODOC Nose: Jacques Flori
TOBACCO OROVILLE Nose: Christian Rostain
NIO Nose: Jacques Flori
For both :
OESEL Nose: Richard Melchio
KOBE Nose: Jacques Flori
FIORE D’ULIVO Nose: Angeline Leporini
BOUQUET IDEALE Nose: Jacques Flori
MEFISTO Nose: Jacques Flori
FIERO Nose: Jacques Flori
Last edited by cairomerta; 7th May 2010 at 02:43 PM.