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  1. #1
    Hillaire
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    Default Unsung Treasures

    They might be former one-hit wonders, forgotten discontinued beauties, treasures from smaller, more obscure houses, quality scents that never got their due press and fizzled quickly,or even stuff that wasn't considered elegant in its time...

    What are the really excellent "secret" scents you have in your collection know about that never get discussed here on basenotes?

    A few of my right-now underrated fabulosities are:

    Bogner Woman - First of all, the whole Bogner line was superb (If you actually see one, BUY it!), a sort of smaller Jil Sander. Woman is a perfectly smooth rose chypre with depth and subtlety both. It's the more refined, more reserved sister of Jil Sander 4.

    Bogner Deep Woods - Gentlemen, this is just so excellent it hurts! A truly refreshing green fougere that is as sophisticated as it could be. Suitable for both sexes. I recommend investing in this if you are seeking a discontinued marvel for your collection.

    Capucci Capucci - Perhaps this is my favorite 'eighties' scent. Fitting in somewhere between EL Beautiful and Ungaro Diva, Cappuci Cappuci is a perfectly-conjured, seamless, deep-honeyed chypre with a heated, spiced drydown that lasts and evolves and lasts and evolves. You'll ask "who's Natori?" Perfumey in the best possible sense of the word. Diva devotees might think twice! And it's still widely available and affordable (though it is discontinued.)

    Marina Picasso Chapeau Bleu - A very niche-like single offering from Picassos "other" daughter, Marina. A really cool fruity wood scent that is refreshing and sensual. And the bottle is freaking amazing.

    Nino Cerruti Pour Femme - WOW, this was an eighties scent to die for! Left in the shadow of La Nuit, a really potent, remarkably-dark leather scent. Very sexy, and in a funky bottle.

    Pierre Cardin Original Pour Homme
    - This is discontinued now, a very pleasing basic, men's chypre with a warm powdery drydown.

    Gabriela Sabatini by Gabriela Sabatini
    (Who was she, again?) - I kind of adore this subtle, sweet, warm floral. No one will know you are wearing an eighties scent! It's mature, cozy, and very silky.

    Gala by Loewe - I think this is what Rumba was supposed to be. A soapy, powerhouse, spicy Oriental with a brash dose of aldehydes and a zesty, heated drydown. This one really does scream voluptuous Latina in low cut black satin. And it's awfully well done. Right on the money, this one. Oh, and Loewe is a great house to look into as well.



    Looking forward to hearing about your under-lauded favorites, too!
    Last edited by Hillaire; 27th June 2010 at 03:41 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I have some "secret" scents too, things I enjoy for a variety of reasons.

    Priscilla Presley's Roses and More...which I wear when I need a scent I can spray recklessly and need a rose (can't be reckless with Sa Majeste, at least I can't)

    Balenciaga's Cialenga: a spicy chypre of a sort

    Jacomo's Silences: a very green mossy floral, don't know why anybody would name this "silences"

    Weil de Weil: Always loved Weil and this greeny in a summer fave, but far less known than Zibeline or Antilope

    and while I'm on a green tangent, AL Moss, is rarely among the Serena scents I read about here, but never ever fails to attract loads of admiration from women, never men.

    Oh, and Senso by Ungaro, I'm the only one I know who likes it.
    Last edited by Zibeline; 11th April 2010 at 01:37 AM.
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  3. #3
    Dependent knit at nite's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hillaire,

    As usual you are truly a fount of perfume knowledge. Great thread!

    The very obscure scent I own (can only find on one database) is Vallee des Rois by Mira Takla, an Egyptologist. 1989 dc'd in the 90's. I think it was only sold a few places like Harrods and the Cairo airport. A floral oriental with a heartnotes reminiscent of Chergui.

    Looking forward to everyone's posts on this subject......
    Last edited by knit at nite; 11th April 2010 at 01:32 AM.
    Currently wearing: Bronze by Ellen Tracy

  4. #4
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Zibeline, I love Cialenga, too. It's my 'other' Rive Gauche . I am glad you mentioned Weil Weil because I have wanted to try it so badly! Now I will.

    Knit at nite, OMG that sounds incredible! DROOLING!! Is it smoky like Chergui, too?

    Also glad you mentioned Priscilla Presley because I also adore her Moments and Indian Summer! (Adding those now)-


    Moments is a really heady rose leather chypre that is closest to Knowing but sweeter and more leathery. Not a bad scent at all, but loud as hell; a drop will do ya! Indian Summer is a light, gentle very sophisticated fresh scent with a feminine "clean" drydown that lasts.A more refined., more modern 5th Avenue.

    Oh, and speaking of Jacomo! I'd like to add Silences Purple and Anthracite. Anthracite is a plummy chypre with loads of galbanum an green that dries down fougere-like, It'd suit men VERY well. It's excellent and I see lots of it on ebay not too much.,
    Silences Purple is a little too sweety-pie at first but dries down quickly to a very sexy tonka-sweet, ambered Oriental in the modern style that is really rather expensive-smelling.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 11th April 2010 at 02:11 AM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hi my gorgeous Hillaire,
    FANTASTIC thread! I have some more Unsung Treasures to add to the list:

    1. Iceberg Universe
    2. Luciano Soprani '2 by Soprani'
    3. Enrico Coveri Enrico Coveri (for women the original)
    4. Enrico Coveri Firenze
    5. Leonard original (for women)
    6. Lancetti Suspense
    7. Lilith by Callaghan
    8. Pierre Cardin original for women
    9. Marbert Women
    10. Marbert Scarf Taormina
    11. Brooksfield Nuance
    12. Morabito Mon Classique
    13. Yves Rocher vintage 8e jour
    14. Molyneux Le Chic
    15. Trussardi Fresh for Women
    16. Trussardi Light Her
    17. Trussardi Action
    18 Olivier Strelli for Women
    19. Capucci Opera III (especially if you adore NOA from Cacharel!)
    20. 'G' from Gigli (especially if you like cherry in a perfume from the master Sophie Labbe)
    21. Donna Borsalino (hard to get sadly)
    22. Soprani Solo Rosa
    23. Yves Rocher (almost all vintages) and not to forget 'Rose Ispahan'
    24. and the gorgeous gorgeous Nazareno Gabrielli original.

    The list is not complete yet, but just to get you started...
    Love,
    Bookshop
    Last edited by bookshop88; 11th April 2010 at 12:58 PM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hillaire: Gabriela Sabatini by Gabriela Sabatini[/B] (Who was she, again?) - I kind of adore this subtle, sweet, warm floral. No one will know you are wearing an eighties scent! It's mature, cozy, and very silky.


    Hillaire, I am one of the BIGGEST fans of the Sabatini original!!!! It is just so lovely and warm, it really touches me in a way little perfumes do! I cannot recommend that one enough!!!
    Thanks for getting our attention in the right direction!!
    Bookshop
    Last edited by bookshop88; 11th April 2010 at 09:55 AM.

  7. #7
    Frag Bomb Squadron XIII
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Excellent thread!

    Signature pour Homme by ST Dupont
    Le Roy Soleille Homme by Salvatore Ferragamo
    Lanvin for Men (discontinued)
    Diva by Ungaro
    Kors by Michael Kors

  8. #8
    Evangeline's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I loved Gabriela Sabatini as a tennis pro, but I never went out of my way to sniff any of her fragrances, and she has a bunch! I'm so pleased to hear at least one is worth seeking out.

    In addition to the aforementioned Capucci and 8e Jour (which has been a top-ten favorite since the 90s,) I have a few other surprisingly obscure beauties to name -

    Yendi by Capucci - a zesty and fresh hyacinthy green floral, imo a high-end sister of Faberge's Babe, which I also adore.
    Sinan by Jean-Marc Sinan - gorgeous, deep green dry chypre. I always thought it was so sophisticated and stylish, and I loved that nobody seemed to know it even back in the day.
    Kif by Lamborghini - spicy, incensey, soft oriental
    Bat Sheba by Judith Muller - another smoldery soft oriental, sexy and exotic
    Parfum Prive by La Perla - very elegant, very beautiful and radiant floral chypre
    Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein - his first, a stunning rosey floral chypre, his best ever imo and very few people seem to know or remember it.
    Privilege by Parfums Privilege - a crisp and bright floral in the same family as Lauren, Pure White Linen and Womenswear by Alexander Julian...which could also make the list.
    Galanos by Galanos - I don't like the Nancy Reagan association so much either, but this lush green and mossy chypre transcends all that.
    Detchema by Revillon - beautiful, elegant aldehydic rosey floral, charming and ultra lady-like.
    Prelude by Balenciaga - my favorite from this house, for me it's all about fresh, herbal mountain air over warm amber.
    Quartz by Molyneux - a bright, citrussy and minerally floral chypre, so much better and more interesting than Cristalle, imo.
    Vivre by Molyneux - another sleek and stunning green chypre, I put this in the same family
    as Givenchy III
    K de Krizia by Krizia - not quite as obscure-seeming as some of the others, but I don't think it
    gets the attention it deserves.


    I'm not familiar with the others you mentioned Diamondflame, but Diva gets a good amount of love here - I thought it was an all-time favorite!
    Last edited by Evangeline; 11th April 2010 at 05:18 PM.

  9. #9
    Dependent Le Grand Duc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by bookshop88 View Post
    FANTASTIC thread!
    + 1

    Not so much hidden treasures, as just neglected ones;

    Dune pour Homme, Dior. Extremely rarely mentioned here on BN,
    and when it does get mentioned, it's probably by me!
    Spellbound, Estée Lauder. Same as above.
    Ysatis, Givenchy. A true 80s power house, rarely talked about.
    Sun Moon Stars, Karl Lagerfeld. An all but forgotten gem. Where is the love?!
    Narcisse, Chloé. The Queen of Great Britain's signature scent. Must mean something!

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Mine is Raffinee by Houbigant ( now owned by Dana )
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Evangeline has mentioned some I would have mentioned. Also:

    Germaine by Germaine Monteil -- sparkling green floral, rather like Le Temps d'une Fete, but with a more "70s chic" feel. Long gone.

    Unter den Linden by Berlin Kosmetik -- this one always got me compliments, always. Only available for about two years around 1995 or so. It reminds me of nothing else I own.

    Megara by Le Galion -- one of those "I wish I had purchased some when I had a chance" scents. Somewhat like Ivoire or Chanel No. 19, but with an exquisite restraint neither of those scents has ever shown on my skin.

  12. #12
    Dependent knit at nite's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hillaire,
    Vallee des Rois doesn't have the smokiness in Chergui to my untrained nose- but it does have that resinous, honeyed, but still dry feel. Maybe the notes in common help reflect the "desert" theme?

    This thread is going to eat up my perfume budget QUICKLY- BRING it!
    I have Silences and it grows on me with each wearing. So I've ordered samples of Anthracite and Silences Purple, and Cialenga.

    I've already got some of KdeKrizia, Quartz and Yendi and Ispahan (not the rose). So if someone (in the US) wants to trade samples of some of these scents, PM me.
    Currently wearing: Bronze by Ellen Tracy

  13. #13

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by mysticknot View Post
    Mine is Raffinee by Houbigant ( now owned by Dana )
    Is the Dana version as lovely...the Dana version of Demi-jour is not as beautiful as the Houbigant scent, nor is their Chantilly. I love both of the originals.
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  14. #14
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I am so glad to see so many other greats being brought up here! YEAH! And so many I am dying to try!

    I was trying to keep Soprani 2 under wraps, bookshop, as I only have found one for sale on earth and I am saving for it. It's the best thing ever, a perfected CK Obsession (the older version of that is quite under-appreciated too.) A bright soap-bar aldehyde over sexy tobacco and musk...Except Soprani 2 wears like an Amouage, pure elegance.

    Narcisse by Chloe is divine, Duc! I have always admired its sillage, and still it captivates me from afar.

    Diamondflame, I like ST Dupont generally; I am so eager to try the men's!
    Evangeline agreed on Privilege! It's cheap, too! As well as the others.

  15. #15
    BayKAT's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    My apologies, my friend, I don't have the depth and scope of perfumery that you do to do this question justice, but little gems I've recenlty found are Absoluto by anotonia's flowers, and Ma Faute, by Galimard. (I wore Ma Faute this morning, spritzed at 2:30 a.m.!!!, for my bike ride down Mt. haleakala in Maui, for 8 hours it wore beautifully!!!)
    Passionate supporter of parrot welfare www.thegabrielfoundation.org

  16. #16

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    012407fragrance-us-1.jpgNot really a hidden treasure, but one of my favorites is the impossibly retro, Norell. I have the parfum extrait. Love the dry, galbanum top over the slightly soapy, amber base. The bottle/packaging is as perfect in its simplicity as that of No. 5 and Joy.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 12th April 2010 at 01:15 AM.

  17. #17
    Basenotes Institution
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    Is the Dana version as lovely...the Dana version of Demi-jour is not as beautiful as the Houbigant scent, nor is their Chantilly. I love both of the originals.
    You know Zibeline- I reckon it's been redone ( haven't they all ? ) but I can't be sure. I remember first trying this one when I was a teenager and wow ! it was love. It smells the same to me ...but you never know.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  18. #18
    Evangeline's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Yay - Hillaire's excellent thread is still going strong! I'm so glad to see all the new posts, and I'm taking notes.

    I totally agree with Norell, Mr. Guyer - I tend to overlook it now, but there was a time when I always had a touch on perfume of it in my purse. Hillaire recently compared it to another favorite of mine, Gucci No. 1 (which I actually feel guilty about neglecting to mention earlier.) I thought the comparison was odd at first, but naturally I gave them a side by side sniff from the bottles (a skin test wasn't even necessary) and I was shocked, but I got it! The Gucci is a bit less casual somehow...it's a bit more tailored and elegant with sparkling aldehhydes on the top - I hoard it.

    Ysatis is one of my favorites too, Duc! I saw your comment about the kid saying someone smelled like his grandma when you were wearing it, but that's not an insult. My grandma wore it too, and that just means we all recognize an opulent and glamorous fragrance when we smell one, including that kid! (Btw, my "Momo" also wore Poison, Coco, Opium, Chloe, Dolce Vita, Giorgio, Cabochard and Angel, and she wore them all beautifully.)

    Another one I forgot to mention is Marilyn Miglin's Pheromone. I realize how polarizing it is/was, but I just love it. I think it's a chypre, although I have a hard time categorizing or even describing it, but it's certainly unique, and very luxurious.

    I think Fragonard is an underrated house. They have beautiful and very well-priced perfumes, edps and natural edts, almost all of which (of the ones I've smelled - they're prolific) I'd recommend. Fleur D'Oranger (I know someone else here loves this one, too....kewart?!), Cerisier en Fleurs, Belle de Nuit, Belle de Soleil, Fantasque and Miranda are all wonderful.
    Last edited by Evangeline; 12th April 2010 at 01:36 AM.

  19. #19
    Dependent Le Grand Duc's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Evangeline View Post
    Ysatis is one of my favorites too, Duc! I saw your comment about the kid saying someone smelled like his grandma when you were wearing it, but that's not an insult. My grandma wore it too, and that just means we all recognize an opulent and glamorous fragrance when we smell one, including that kid! (Btw, my "Momo" also wore Poison, Coco, Opium, Chloe, Dolce Vita, Giorgio, Cabochard and Angel, and she wore them all beautifully.)
    Wow, that is one stylish momo ... so cool!

  20. #20
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Evangleline, you are so right; Fragonard is also nice and forgotten, may I add Rendez-Vous to the list? I don't even think it's in the database.

    Oh, and Evangeline, may I also recommend Crown Perfumery's Malabar, since you are such a fan of Gucci 1 ? It's available for really good prices.

    Adding the great Moschino Moschino (original one with the Italian flag ribbon) - what a dynamite impeccable chypre. It's bone dry, salty, not at all sweet, and another that dries down fougere-like. I'd think men would be re-visiting this one like crazy, as a green galbanum aromatic chype with whiz bang sillage. Especially since it's widely available. SO, guys, try out the original women's Moschino.


    The original men's Moschino (Does this get any press on the men's forum?) I also have, and it's one of the truly best, too. Not too loud, youthful and natural-smelling.


  21. #21
    Evangeline's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Oh, and Evangeline, may I also recommend Crown Perfumery's Malabar, since you are such a fan of Gucci 1? It's available for really good prices.
    Yes, of course - thank you!! The Moschino sounds good, too.

  22. #22
    Evangeline's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Evangleline, you are so right; Fragonard is also nice and forgotten, may I add Rendez-Vous to the list? I don't even think it's in the database.
    I've never seen Rendez-Vous and it's not in their current line-up, but I'll certainly keep an eye out for it now. Thanks again!

  23. #23

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Adding the great Moschino Moschino (original one with the Italian flag ribbon) - what a dynamite impeccable chypre. It's bone dry, salty, not at all sweet, and another that dries down fougere-like. I'd think men would be re-visiting this one like crazy, as a green galbanum aromatic chype with whiz bang sillage. Especially since it's widely available. SO, guys, try out the original women's Moschino.
    I just ordered a bottle from FragranceX.com - this one sounds great. Fingers crossed.

  24. #24
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Wonderful, I know you'll love it! I'll stand behind my recommendation, too, Kevin. If you hate it, I'll buy it off you. I am wagering it's going to disappear with the new regulations,if it has not already been axed.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Great thread, Hillaire. Thanks! I don't have any unsung treasures to add at this time, but I'm furiously taking notes!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    + 1 for the Moschino! Everyone is going nuts about Glamour and Couture (me too by the way!) but they do NOT hold the candle to the original! The Orginal has not yet been surpassed! In the same style as the Soprani 2, SUPER polished and that is quite an accomplishment knowing we are talking about a hard core Galbanum!!
    Bookshop

  27. #27

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I remember original Moschino. I had a bottle back in the day. It reminded me a little of Shalimar at that time. I haven't smelled it in ages.

    My unsung treasures are nostalgic for me. Among my nostalgia frags, I have a long discontinued fragrance from Yardley called Springflowers (and I can't believe I actually found a bottle) that is a green floral chypre - the style of its day, 1968. I received a gift set of that scent when I was a child. Today, no one would find a chypre an appropriate scent for a child, but I wore it and loved it then. I still love Yardley's Lavender cologne, too. More recently, I've been enjoying a bottle of Waterford's Lismore that I found at Marshalls (discount store). It was created by Harry Fremont, and it is a lovely fragrance. It didn't do well, I suppose because Waterford went bankrupt and all those bottles went to the discounters. And I confess (blushing) that I am a big fan of Elizabeth Arden's Provocative Woman, which I think is pretty much despised everywhere. It smells great on me, though.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Wonderful thread!

    I have to echo the mentions of Silences. I often wear it in the evening.

    An unsung treasure is Nina Ricci's Farouche. I've only recently tried a sample, but all I can say is wowza.

    Similar to Silences is Ivoire de Balmain. I don't see it mentioned too often. Ditto for Laura B's Roma.

  29. #29
    Basenotes Institution
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    The other one which I LOVED and still do but it's discontinued - is the original Escada before they started all the flanker nonsense.



    **I loved and owned Ysatis too, Duckie !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    +1 for Norell, Silences, Ivoire de Balmain! All three are lovely and affordable.

    I will add Paco Rabanne's Metal, another gorgeous green floral that has one of the prettiest musky dry-downs I've ever encountered. .

    Also, Hillaire, you suggested Thymes Goldleaf in a different thread, and I got a chance to try that last weekend. It's beautiful! I purchased the foaming bath powder and body cream for now, but I will probably go buy a bottle of the perfume, too. What a lovely floral chypre!

    Thymes Moonflower and Kimono Rose are also quite nice.
    Last edited by NebraskaLovesScent; 13th April 2010 at 12:35 AM. Reason: edited to correct boldface type

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