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  1. #61

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Yes, I blind bought again...
    (MUST STOP THIS!)
    Moschino by Moschino is delicious... I'm sniffing a bit of a Barbara Bui-ish incense note in it. (In fact I'll need to compare these side by side.)
    And on the other wrist... I'm wearing Metal. Didn't like the first blast (or rather, didn't NOT like it but didn't see the point) but the drydown is developing nicely. (Sorry, not good at picking out notes...)

  2. #62
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I love hearing back that people enjoy recommended scents. it's like charity work.
    C Rose, so glad you love Moschino.

    I just got a quality fruity modern rose scent: Molyneux Le Chic. (bookshop already mentioned it.) It turns out it can be bought for under fifteen dollars, too. I recommend this one a great deal to fruity modern rose lovers. It's not teeny; it's very "chic". Wish I had the notes.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 25th April 2010 at 05:21 AM.

  3. #63

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Oh, Hillaire... you get my vote as "Scent Pusher Extraordinaire on Basenotes"... in a good way. I am curbing my spending for a while now, but you DO make that pretty difficult with your great descriptions of scents that one must have!

    (evil, you are. <grins>)
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  4. #64

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit View Post
    Gosh, I received Silences today. It's a true gem and it only cost me 8€. Incredible. Thank you thread, thank you all.
    Isn't it glorious? So glad you discovered it. Like you, it's after reading about it here on Basenotes that I took the plunge and bought it blind. I loved it at first sniff!

  5. #65

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I just got a quality fruity modern rose scent: Molyneux Le Chic. It turns out it can be bought for under fifteen dollars, too. I recommend this one a great deal to fruity modern rose lovers. It's not teeny; it's very "chic". Wish I had the notes.
    This is so excellent! Not only does this thread serve to inform us about scents we need to seek out, it's a good reminder of scents we might already have! I have a full bottle of this back home, but off the top of my head I can't imagine where it might be. In the last several months I've dug out four or five fragrances that I had neglected or forgotten about until someone mentioned them here on basenotes. They're usually minis (I'm sure I'm not alone in this but I have hundreds of minis - it's hard to keep track!) but with Twolf's help I found a full vintage bottle of Miss Balmain that I'd completely forgotten about! Now I'm tasked with finding that Le Chic! (I've moved a lot in the last 20 years, and I tend not to pack my perfume wardrobe all together because it's spread throughout several rooms. I'm not very organized, but this leads to such fun rediscoveries years later!)

    According to Perfume Intelligence, Le Chic de Molyneux is "a floral edp with notes of apricot, raspberry, peony, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, oak moss and vanilla." It was originally released in 1932, discontinued then relaunched in 1995. Well okay then!

    Thanks yet again Hillaire!

  6. #66

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Wonderful, I know you'll love it! I'll stand behind my recommendation, too, Kevin. If you hate it, I'll buy it off you. I am wagering it's going to disappear with the new regulations,if it has not already been axed.
    Finally got to my new purchase, Moschino. In a word, glorious! Hillaire, thanks a million for this recommendation. It brings to mind, L'Heure Bleu, Sublime and Donna Karan Signature. A galbanum opening and a dollop of nutmeg, cloves and Ylang Ylang in the heart and lots of glorious patchouli, amber and vanilla in the base. My only complaint is the final dry-down, 4 -5 hours after application, is a bit meaningless, but at that point I'm willing to just spray it on again and start over.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hello all my dears.

    Just a couple of scents that I was thinking of that are rarely mentioned;

    Jacomo- Parfum Rare

    Capucci- Filly and Parce Que

    Nina Ricci- Mademoiselle Ricci and Fille d'Ève

    Céline- Magic

    Molinard- Orval and Calendal

    Jean d'Albret- Princesse d'Albret and Ecusson

    Alain Delon- Le temps d'aimer

    and oh so many others...
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  8. #68

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I think Tweed is probably on of the most underrated perfumes out there. It's easy to get and it's very cheap, but it gets very little attention.

    My mother says she used to wear it in the 1950s, so I bought her a bottle a few years ago. I think it's a wonderful and very traditional feminine fragrance.
    Last edited by sean-dt; 24th April 2010 at 05:56 AM.

  9. #69
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Finally got to my new purchase, Moschino. In a word, glorious! Hillaire, thanks a million for this recommendation. It brings to mind, L'Heure Bleu, Sublime and Donna Karan Signature. A galbanum opening and a dollop of nutmeg, cloves and Ylang Ylang in the heart and lots of glorious patchouli, amber and vanilla in the base. My only complaint is the final dry-down, 4 -5 hours after application, is a bit meaningless, but at that point I'm willing to just spray it on again and start over.
    What wonderful news! Thank you for telling me! I am so glad you like it. My boyfriend has been wearing it lately, too. I find that it actually disappears a little too quickly, that after a few hours, it's gone.

  10. #70
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Wow, thank you for these, Brielle. I cannot wait to look into these!

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    Hello all my dears.

    Just a couple of scents that I was thinking of that are rarely mentioned;

    Jacomo- Parfum Rare

    Capucci- Filly and Parce Que

    Nina Ricci- Mademoiselle Ricci and Fille d'Ève

    Céline- Magic

    Molinard- Orval and Calendal

    Jean d'Albret- Princesse d'Albret and Ecusson

    Alain Delon- Le temps d'aimer

    and oh so many others...

  11. #71
    nyneve's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Graffiti Capucci

    and I'll buy Maria Candida Gentile Sideris
    A, quales ego mane rosas procedere vidi!
    Nascebantur adhuc neque erat par omnibus aetas.

  12. #72

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    +1 for Le temps d'aimer!

    And has anyone mentioned Eau de Calandre by Paco Rabanne?

  13. #73
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by nyneve View Post
    Graffiti Capucci
    All the Capucci fragrances brought up here, make me realize just what a GREAT, underestimated house it is!

    No one has mentioned the HTF Eau de Calandre-- nor Eau de Metal. Very unique fresh scents, which I consider myself very lucky to own.


    I'd like to mention a really unique scent here called Apogee, created for Les Senteurs and purchasable therefrom online. However relatively obscure, I cannot help but think it belongs alongside certain great, classic aldehydic-animalic wonders many of us here elevate; namely: Amouage Gold and the orginal First.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 24th April 2010 at 04:23 PM.

  14. #74
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    The original Leonard by Leonard is now officially one of my top three eighties-era leather chypres. (already mentioned by booksshop above) Densly leathered "green" chypre with a sublte soapy rose top bit and a rich, very old-styled Guerlain-esque rose-and-orris heart.
    Nothing about this scent says "women". And listen up! ... This is the closest scent to the illustrious, unattainable, discontinued genius leather chypre Parure ...in the world.
    I am even confirming this assertionnow with a side by side (Sigh...remember those Fine ingredients?? Sigh...). Stunningly similar. Shockingly similar. And so much cheaper and easier to find.

    I just posted a link to a good deal on some in the Great Deals thread.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 25th April 2010 at 05:23 AM.

  15. #75
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I have been out of commission the last few weeks, and with loads of idle time, I have been going through my minis and vintage decants one by one for some real, solid wearings. Hence a lot of the re-discoveries I am sharing here. Tonight I am so happy tell you all about Lancetti Suspense (already mentioned by bookshop above). I think this one is still available on Amazon and stuff. It's a sin qua non -- what I call -- Soapy Galbanum Chypre. (Other notable examples being Ivoire, Arabian Wood, Safari, and Silences)
    I am going on a limb to say it's the best of the genre here, but I am in HEAVEN wearing it tonight. And I totally defy anyone who is crazy for Ivoire to try it and find me wrong.


    And it's totally unisex, naturally!
    Last edited by Hillaire; 25th April 2010 at 05:24 AM.

  16. #76

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Check many other Lancetti scents -- I think the whole range is undeservingly unknown and they DO have some hidden gems.

    Not yet mentioned:
    -- Pikens Arrogance pour Femme (80s floral, starts green and dries down woodelicious);
    -- Montana Eau Cuivree (90s floral with leather and civet upon settling), other Montana statement making avalanches of scent;
    -- Matchabelli Decadence (80s floral with mossy rooty ending);
    -- Les Copains original (blue packaging -- ultimate solemn acacia done in the mood of L'Heure Bleue);
    -- Casanova Plaisir (green floral with fruity undertones and most luminous sweet tonka) -- eat it, MDCI (this is about the bottle design)!
    Last edited by Twolf; 25th April 2010 at 09:30 AM.

  17. #77
    Eva Pasco
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    My unsung treasures are the unexpected, inexpensive, chance encounters I discovered on a shelf at Walmart: Bodycology's Gardenia (the truest imitation I've ever sniffed) and Nutrius Velvet Tuberose (not the tuberose one associates with Fracas, but a sweet misrepresentation that works for me).

  18. #78

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Okay I am adding another I just discovered due to a VERY generous, lovely basenoter. I did not even know this floral chypre existed, and it is PERFECTION. I haven't been this excited about a new thing since I discovered Amouage Jubilation, I kid you not. And I NEVER see it mentioned here; in fact it only has three reviews. It's so complex, so enticing, so plush, and very elegant. SIGH!

    Sabi
    by Henry Dunay

    I was passing by Neiman's today and went in to try the Sabi -- and the SA said they don't carry it anymore! (she said the Henry Dunay company has gone bankrupt -- I googled this when I got home and saw it was true.) But, she was able to find the tester and so I got a spritz. Indeed, it is an elegant, smooth chypre! I see the Neiman's website still carries it, as well as Bergdorf etc. (the smaller size which I think does not look like the bottle pictured below, being more squat!) And presumably may be around for years at discounters and such?
    (edit: small, .67oz size is slim bottle shown, larger size, 1.4oz, is squat shape)
    (edit: gone from Neiman's etc, now on ebay)
    Last edited by C Rose; 25th May 2010 at 03:38 PM. Reason: updates

  19. #79

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Sabi is gorgeous! A Basenoter sent me a decant of that a while back and it's so worth searching out if you love rich greens.

    I've been longing for a bottle of Weil's Antilope. Someone sent me decant of that but I never was able to discover whether it was vintage or recent, or what formulation. It's inexpensive to buy on ebay, but I hate buying full bottles blind (even though I still do it occasionally). This thread is dangerous for me. Lots of interesting fragrances are mentioned.

  20. #80
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    Sabi is gorgeous! A Basenoter sent me a decant of that a while back and it's so worth searching out if you love rich greens.

    I've been longing for a bottle of Weil's Antilope. Someone sent me decant of that but I never was able to discover whether it was vintage or recent, or what formulation. It's inexpensive to buy on ebay, but I hate buying full bottles blind (even though I still do it occasionally). This thread is dangerous for me. Lots of interesting fragrances are mentioned.
    Liliybelle,I have some Antilope of the octagonal, eighties/nineties era bottle, I'd be happy to share with you. I have to say, though, as a HUGE fan of ZIBELINE and Bambou, I find this worse than insipid. It's so generic to my nose, I imagine it was the "dimestore"Vanderbilt-equivalent of it's day, a wan aldehydic nothingness. I got none of the purported "grassy plains" or parched deserted landscapes some reviewers apparently did. But I have not tired the oldest versions! What was your sample like?? And what color? Mine is lightest muted yellow.

  21. #81
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by C Rose View Post

    Sabi
    by Henry Dunay

    I was passing by Neiman's today and went in to try the Sabi -- and the SA said they don't carry it anymore! (she said the Henry Dunay company has gone bankrupt -- I googled this when I got home and saw it was true.) But, she was able to find the tester and so I got a spritz. Indeed, it is an elegant, smooth chypre! I see the Neiman's website still carries it, as well as Bergdorf etc. (the smaller size which I think does not look like the bottle pictured below, being more squat!) And presumably may be around for years at discounters and such?
    I am feeling a little faint with neuron overload now! Another one (and not a cheap one) I feel I must "stockpile" post haste. Such a loss, such a shame... Such importance, such importance....

  22. #82
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Check many other Lancetti scents -- I think the whole range is undeservingly unknown and they DO have some hidden gems.

    Not yet mentioned:
    -- Pikens Arrogance pour Femme (80s floral, starts green and dries down woodelicious);
    -- Montana Eau Cuivree (90s floral with leather and civet upon settling), other Montana statement making avalanches of scent;
    -- Matchabelli Decadence (80s floral with mossy rooty ending);
    -- Les Copains original (blue packaging -- ultimate solemn acacia done in the mood of L'Heure Bleue);
    -- Casanova Plaisir (green floral with fruity undertones and most luminous sweet tonka) -- eat it, MDCI (this is about the bottle design)!
    Twolf, I agree so much! LAncetti is a classic Italian house, with a reliable, good-quality, never-in-bad-taste line-up! I also cannot recommend their classic Via Condotti enough. A warm green-lovers, green chypre, that would charm lovers of Calandre, Ma Griffe and Miss Dior. It's more gentile and warm-blooded and modern than those, but that's the gist.


    Twolf I am glad to hear an endorsement for Les Copains; it's caught my eye for a time, but I have not tried it yet. Have you tried the newer version with the gorgeous butterfly design on the box? It seems quite easy to find. Is that one any good?

  23. #83
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    Hello all my dears.



    Capucci- Filly and Parce Que

    Nina Ricci- Mademoiselle Ricci and Fille d'Ève



    and oh so many others...
    Brielle, I appreciate anything you might suggest, my impression is that your taste is impeccable! I was most eager to look into the Capucci and Ricci scents, since I LOVE those houses without exceptions so far! I was able to find affordable bottles of both the Ricci Mademoiselle and the Capucci Filly. But I would LOVE you'd describe them for me, or at least tell me what sort of scents they are. Thank you so much, Brielle...or anyone else who might know these scents!

  24. #84

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Lilybelle, the Antilope that is sold on ebay, the EdC in the octagonal shaped bottle is horrible compared to the original. I have smelt the original and it is truly a treasure worth seeking out.
    Hillaire, if this is the version you have, i am not surprised that it does not send you over the moon. The original extrait and the EdP are just glorious and they have that grassy plains/Serengeti like feel.


    Another unsung classic (or two)

    Eau Frivole by Fragonard

    Sketch by Molinard (a great Chypre )
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  25. #85

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Brielle, I appreciate anything you might suggest, my impression is that your taste is impeccable! I was most eager to look into the Capucci and Ricci scents, since I LOVE those houses without exceptions so far! I was able to find affordable bottles of both the Ricci Mademoiselle and the Capucci Filly. But I would LOVE you'd describe them for me, or at least tell me what sort of scents they are. Thank you so much, Brielle...or anyone else who might know these scents!
    The Mlle Ricci is a wonderfully soft green scent. It is not a green/chypre exactly, but it is not a true fresh green scent. It is something green, elegant and sophisticated. It is a 60's green scent, slightly chypre but far removed from the Dior chypre scents of the 40's and 50's and not as intense as the green/chypre scents of the early to mid- 70's.

    Filly is a wonderful aldyhidic fruit/floral from the 80's. When a fruit/floral was not a badge of shame and lacking in creativity and panache. It brings to mind what Quartz by Molyneux would be like if it were created in the 80's.
    Hope this helped.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  26. #86
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by bookshop88 View Post
    Hi my gorgeous Hillaire,
    FANTASTIC thread! I have some more Unsung Treasures to add to the list:

    1. Iceberg Universe
    2. Luciano Soprani '2 by Soprani'
    3. Enrico Coveri Enrico Coveri (for women the original)
    4. Enrico Coveri Firenze
    5. Leonard original (for women)
    6. Lancetti Suspense
    7. Lilith by Callaghan
    8. Pierre Cardin original for women
    9. Marbert Women
    10. Marbert Scarf Taormina
    11. Brooksfield Nuance
    12. Morabito Mon Classique
    13. Yves Rocher vintage 8e jour
    14. Molyneux Le Chic
    15. Trussardi Fresh for Women
    16. Trussardi Light Her
    17. Trussardi Action
    18 Olivier Strelli for Women
    19. Capucci Opera III (especially if you adore NOA from Cacharel!)
    20. 'G' from Gigli (especially if you like cherry in a perfume from the master Sophie Labbe)
    21. Donna Borsalino (hard to get sadly)
    22. Soprani Solo Rosa
    23. Yves Rocher (almost all vintages) and not to forget 'Rose Ispahan'
    24. and the gorgeous gorgeous Nazareno Gabrielli original.

    The list is not complete yet, but just to get you started...
    Love,
    Bookshop

    I am working y way through these bookshop! WOW!! Many of these, the super-lovely super-aficionado bookshop was kind enough to share with me, and I am STUNNED!

    Capucci Opera III is more like the incomparable Soprani 2 than Noa to my nose, though I can see it as a sort of (like you said) all grown up Noa, with sophistication and worldiness -- if Noa is fifteen, Opera III is forty. Opera III is a floral aldehydic with rich musky, tobacooed, sensual base. It strikes me as the finest of Capuccis, and stands as my favorite at present.



    Trussardi Action was a TRUE surprise, and surprises are most welcome! It's a GREENER than GREEN leather that lasts forever and has so much character, it's almost improbable. It's a loud, attention-getting scent that somehow never goes into the territory of trashy, as it's so stylish and fashionably off-color. This one, if it were a niche release, would be blowing men's and women's minds! It's quite related to the orginal women's, white-croc Trussardi, and almost seems like a re-tooling. I can assure you all, if you like Trussardi original, Action will float your boat big time. Not a feminine scent at all either.


    Lilith by Callaghan is a gorgeous sexy scent! It's a sweet, vaguely Oriental floral chypre with a sparkly bit. I don't know why I want to comapre it to Sublime, as it's more youthful, but that's the vibe I get nonetheless. Really gorgeous. Fun yet sexy.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 27th April 2010 at 03:42 AM.

  27. #87
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    And finally for today!

    My favorite Trussardi, and maybe the least recognized one of the house:


    Donna Trussardi. In my review I wax ridiculous, as I just love this one so much. But I have to say, as great, stand-out, aldehydic classics go (like Sublime and Ferre by Ferre), this one is at least as good, and never fails to amaze me that it's also a hard-core "leather". A virtuous, elegant, quality, classic-status-worthy forgotten scent. I wore it again yesterday and thought all day how strikingly fine it was. And I see it on ebay all the time!

    Last edited by Hillaire; 27th April 2010 at 03:43 AM.

  28. #88
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    The Mlle Ricci is a wonderfully soft green scent. It is not a green/chypre exactly, but it is not a true fresh green scent. It is something green, elegant and sophisticated. It is a 60's green scent, slightly chypre but far removed from the Dior chypre scents of the 40's and 50's and not as intense as the green/chypre scents of the early to mid- 70's.

    Filly is a wonderful aldyhidic fruit/floral from the 80's. When a fruit/floral was not a badge of shame and lacking in creativity and panache. It brings to mind what Quartz by Molyneux would be like if it were created in the 80's.
    Hope this helped.
    Thank you SO much Brielle! That was really helpful, and moreover really ''exciting news, and I am imagining them already. Get ready, Paypal!

    I am also "glad" to know my Antilope was the "bad" one, especially since I value vintage Weil generally. They must have released some real junk toward the end! I also smelled the last version of Zibeline recently, which was more heartbreaking than its discontinuation. Very thin and barely animalic. The sevenites bottle my mother has is even richer than Cuir de Russie or vintage Tabac Blond. What a STUNNER.

  29. #89

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I also cannot recommend their classic Via Condotti enough.
    Via Condotti pour Homme is also nice with a prominent-lasting peach note.

  30. #90

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Always such a pleasure Hillaire!! You have so much class and so much taste!!! It really really enhances my joy in the sharing of fragrances, when the other person has sooo much taste!!!!
    You truly are one in a million!!
    Bookshop
    Last edited by bookshop88; 27th April 2010 at 06:30 AM.

  31. #91

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hillaire, not that Les Copains, not in a black packaging with a butterfly. The one I am thinking of comes in a tall and slim bottle and in a plain royal blue box.

    I have tested the new one too -- nothing to write home about, a fruity floral with musk in the dryout, mind you -- the white synthetic one.
    Last edited by Twolf; 27th April 2010 at 10:56 AM.

  32. #92

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Liliybelle,I have some Antilope of the octagonal, eighties/nineties era bottle, I'd be happy to share with you. I have to say, though, as a HUGE fan of ZIBELINE and Bambou, I find this worse than insipid. It's so generic to my nose, I imagine it was the "dimestore"Vanderbilt-equivalent of it's day, a wan aldehydic nothingness. I got none of the purported "grassy plains" or parched deserted landscapes some reviewers apparently did. But I have not tired the oldest versions! What was your sample like?? And what color? Mine is lightest muted yellow.
    It's been a while, but I think it was rather a light color, straw like. It smelled fairly fresh, and the color had not turned, so must have been a recent formulation. I got a dry/sweet vetiver impression. It could have been the one you find insipid. I often like fragrances others find insipid, lol!

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    Lilybelle, the Antilope that is sold on ebay, the EdC in the octagonal shaped bottle is horrible compared to the original. I have smelt the original and it is truly a treasure worth seeking out.
    Hillaire, if this is the version you have, i am not surprised that it does not send you over the moon. The original extrait and the EdP are just glorious and they have that grassy plains/Serengeti like feel.
    Brielle, I think there was a new edp formulation that came out after the edc that is so cheap on ebay and that is supposed to be horrible (although I could be confused). Is it the newer edp that you are referring to, or strictly the vintage?
    Last edited by lilybelle; 27th April 2010 at 11:28 PM.

  33. #93

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Furthermore...this thread in itself is a treasure!

  34. #94

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    [/QUOTE]Brielle, I think there was a new edp formulation that came out after the edc that is so cheap on ebay and that is supposed to be horrible (although I could be confused). Is it the newer edp that you are referring to, or strictly the vintage?[/QUOTE]

    Oh goodness, for me it is always vintage if available. The Antilope I had was vintage and it was divine. I smelt the EdC at a fragrance store in Boston and it was meh at best. Even the shop owner said it was a sad reflection of the original. I have never smelt the newer EdP and would probably disappointed, as I am with many re-orchestrations, they always seem to be a sad impression of their former selves.
    Last edited by Brielle87; 27th April 2010 at 11:38 PM.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  35. #95

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    True, Brielle, that when you've known the original, reformulations, even if well done, just don't measure up.

  36. #96
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Tonight, I shall sing the praises of Vendetta by Valentino...

    For those women who aren't "afraid" of knock-'em-dead fruity orientals ala Poison, I cannot recommend this one enough. I actually cannot wear Poison find Vendetta intoxicating. It's fruity introductory accord is to drool for and reminds me of a more sophisticated version of Hanae Mori, but it develops into a opulent, very-fine Oriental along the lines of Ubar. I suspect this scent employed some pretty tasty, now-defunct ingredients. And though this discontinued scent appears a tad pricey, I emphasize that any modern house actually using ingredients this fine or making scents this natural and symphonic would charge a LOT more...

    Finally, the sillage on this lady is like nothing on earth. I don't think I own another scent that keeps hitting me with whiffs of perfection all day like this one does. And like some other true greats, its sillage is a totally different perfume than the close-up version. What strikes me a touch too peachy when smelling wrists, is a creamy, deep symphony from a short distance. And it makes my clothes smell IMPOSSIBLY nice. Oh, and it lasts for days, of course.

    So, if you like some other classical, plummy, Oriental heavy-hitters, like Poison, Talisman, C'est la Vie, Nicole Miller or even Gem, please don't overlook Vendetta, which in my opinion is the best of its era.


    Last edited by Hillaire; 4th May 2010 at 04:08 AM.

  37. #97
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Wow! This thread is amazing.....I thought I had heard of almost everything but it seems I've barely scratched the surface. I will say there is a vast difference in quality out there. It is the luck of the draw. I also got a bad bottle of Antilope so I won't go there again. Sometimes I get lucky on blind buys. Turbulences was one. I have it in the parfum & it is lovely. It seems to be full of oakmoss.

  38. #98

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Is everyone else making a list, too?

    Moschino and Pheromone were already mentioned. Balenciaga Talisman rarely gets mentioned, but I love the chocolately fruit cake on a chypre base. Liz Claiborne Vivid to me is the perfect violet scent, not candy sweet, but warm and complex.

  39. #99
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by jacona View Post
    Balenciaga Talisman rarely gets mentioned, but I love the chocolately fruit cake on a chypre base. Liz Claiborne Vivid to me is the perfect violet scent, not candy sweet, but warm and complex.

    Jacona! I am so glad you mentioned Talisman!! I kid you not, it was next on my list to write about!! To my nose, it's a better alternative to Angel. Not necessarily the same-smelling. But a rich plummy, chocolate Oriental that actually smells refined. I am always impressed with how nice it actually smells on skin... sumptuous, perfumey, and warm. It's sweet in a not-offensive way, too. Talisman!! It's discontinued, and since it has relatively no following, bottles are still affordable. The notes say it all! (osmanthus, litchi, dried prune, pineapple, aldehyde, peach, hyacinth, bourbon, bergamot// cyclamen, carnation, iris, freesia,jasmine, ylang ylang, muguet, rose // leather, santal, tonka, ambergris, patchouli, musk, coconut, vanille, beeswax, caramel, cedar) I can actually pick out EACH one! Now that I ponder, this will appeal to all lovers of Mauboussin.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 4th May 2010 at 04:09 AM.

  40. #100
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Most of us are very familiar with First and the newer scents from Van Cleef & Arpels, but I believe they made their best fragrances in the early nineties.

    The most gorgeous release from this house IMO was Gem (1990), a lush, dark, plummy, fruity rose chypre, not unlike Knowing. It's a true collectible, and an wise investment, as it was one of the great scents of its era. An important thing to be aware of when hunting down VC&A vintages is that this house's reformulations were very drastic. But fortunately, those that were reformulated can be easily identified by their generic, white boxes. The original Gem formula came in a red, marbled box.



    old one
    reformulated issue

    I grow fonder and fonder of the sweet and "clean" Oriental Van Cleef (1994)! With top notes of raspberry and aldehydes, it strikes me as something of a prim, Patrician predecessor of Hanae Mori. I honestly wonder how much Hanae Mori was influenced by Van Cleef! It's a very good quality "modern" Oriental and marks a departure from the animalic, heavier Orientals that ruled a few years before, like Boucheron. It's soapy, fruity, and effervescent, with a rich vanillic drydown. The original formulation can be identified by its blue and gold box. It's still in production, this one, but I find the newest version rather bland.

    old bottle
    new one

    Besides First, the only other Ellena effort released by this house was the tragically-ignored Miss Arpels (1993), a poorly marketed, not-actually-for-girls sophisticated, mossy, somewhat-dry, proto fruity floral. This beauty is dirt cheap!! Moreover it was discontinued before the house implemented its reformulation rape of their whole line, so all bottles available are 'good ones'.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 4th May 2010 at 02:42 AM.

  41. #101

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat View Post
    Wow! This thread is amazing.....I thought I had heard of almost everything but it seems I've barely scratched the surface. I will say there is a vast difference in quality out there. It is the luck of the draw. I also got a bad bottle of Antilope so I won't go there again. Sometimes I get lucky on blind buys. Turbulences was one. I have it in the parfum & it is lovely. It seems to be full of oakmoss.
    Full of oakmoss? This warrants investigation!

  42. #102
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Jacques Fath's Fath de Fath is another, favorite, more-obscure Oriental of mine. I suspect it was somewhat different in its original formulation in 1954, because it seems a bit more modern than that. It was discontinued recently. No doubt because of all of its rich, fine ingredients. To my nose, it's opening is somewhat similar to the new luscious, heady Natori fragrance... perhaps its hefty dose of plum. (I sure love plum!) It is surprisingly sweet for an older scent by by no means cloying. In fact it's the amount of sweetness I prefer in an Oriental. Its base is tonka bean rich and heavily vanillic and always reminds me of Cristobal. It's still easily found online, and not-yet outrageously overpriced. A true classic, gorgeous, paradigmatic Fruity Oriental. The bottle is one of my favorites.

    Last edited by Hillaire; 5th May 2010 at 06:18 AM.

  43. #103

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Yes Hillaire you are so right!! plus 1 on the Fath de Fath!!

  44. #104
    Basenotes Plus
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Ok fellow unsung treasures fans, I got a good deal on Morabito Mon Classique. What should I expect when it arrives?

  45. #105

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Oh my! I want to try so many of these now! Remember Molyneux Quartz? I wonder whether that one is worth revisiting. I had that a million years ago. It must have been reformulated by now. I just bought Jessica McClintock at Marshall's and I've been loving it over the past couple of days. Hillaire, I read your review of it and laughed. It's very funny.

  46. #106

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    Oh my! I want to try so many of these now! Remember Molyneux Quartz? I wonder whether that one is worth revisiting. I had that a million years ago. It must have been reformulated by now. I just bought Jessica McClintock at Marshall's and I've been loving it over the past couple of days. Hillaire, I read your review of it and laughed. It's very funny.

    Lilybelle, I used to wear Quartz in the early 80's and I bought some again a couple of years ago. I honestly don't notice a huge difference, if at all, unless my olfactory memory is failing me. I wouldn't hesitate getting it again, if I were you. It really is a great scent.

  47. #107

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I'll keep my eye open for it. thanks!

  48. #108
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Reporting back that I am now the proud owner of Le Chic & Moschino Beautiful scents and very reasonable! Retirement fund intact. So glad they were posted here

  49. #109

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by knit_at_nite View Post
    Ok fellow unsung treasures fans, I got a good deal on Morabito Mon Classique. What should I expect when it arrives?
    Hi!!
    A very rich and voluptuous White Flower in the manner they were supposed to be!!
    Enjoy!!
    Bookshop

  50. #110

    Default Notes of the gorgeous perfume Lancaster classic

    These notes I found on the net!! NO WONDER IT IS SO GORGEOUS!

    Lancaster Eau de Concentree / Bath and Body

    Launch: 1987

    Top notes: Orangeblossom, Neroli, Bergamot, Lavender, Tagetes, Basilicum, Coriandre, Thyme.
    Heart notes: Jasmin, Tuberose, Mimosa, Geranium
    Base notes: Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandelwood, Galbanum, Incense, Vanille, Civet.

  51. #111
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    ST Dupont's Orazuli is a lovely, refined floral Oriental with a youthful air.

    It first impresses me with a very sparkling white floral accord (peppery freesia really holds center stage), but quickly reveals it's Oriental undertones, which are very close in spirit to Hanae Mori's eponymous paradigmatic, sugary classic.

    My initial take on it was that it was "too much", the floral and the Oriental seeming stuck together, but I found myself craving it, as the floral aspects really work to lighten and spruce up its overall effect. It's lovely.

    The bottle is cool. And it's still cheap.

    Last edited by Hillaire; 18th June 2010 at 09:16 PM.

  52. #112
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Notes of the gorgeous perfume Lancaster classic

    Bookshop, Lancaster Bath and Body is a mad-crazy, herb-shoppe dream-chypre! Somewhere between O de Lancome and Sisley Eau du Soir.
    Not an easy one to find!
    Last edited by Hillaire; 18th June 2010 at 09:19 PM.

  53. #113

    Default Re: Notes of the gorgeous perfume Lancaster classic

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Bookshop, Lancaster Bath and Body is a mad-crazy, herb-shoppe dream-chypre! Somewhere between O de Lancome and Sisley Eau du Soir.
    Not an easy one to find!
    Of course my lovely Hillaire, you know I'll offer you a 30 ml decant ANYTIME!!!

  54. #114

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Oh, this thread! Since it started, I've gone cuckoo for Jacomo! I have purchased Anthracite, Silences and Silences Purple in the last two weeks. Winners, each and every one!

    My wish list is growing by leaps and bounds!

    Time to bump this thread and enable somebody else.

    (For those interested in Anthracite, this Amazon Marketplace seller has 30ml bottles of the EDT for $25.

    http://www.amazon.com/shops/A3QOFMKI2AMRCW )

  55. #115
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by NebraskaLovesScent View Post
    Oh, this thread! Since it started, I've gone cuckoo for Jacomo! I have purchased Anthracite, Silences and Silences Purple in the last two weeks. Winners, each and every one!

    My wish list is growing by leaps and bounds!

    Time to bump this thread and enable somebody else.

    (For those interested in Anthracite, this Amazon Marketplace seller has 30ml bottles of the EDT for $25.

    http://www.amazon.com/shops/A3QOFMKI2AMRCW )
    CUCKOO FOR JACOMO!
    CUCKOO FOR JACOMO!
    I Love that, NLS
    A Scent Rescuer
    Every great perfume deserves a good home

  56. #116
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by NebraskaLovesScent View Post
    Oh, this thread! Since it started, I've gone cuckoo for Jacomo! I have purchased Anthracite, Silences and Silences Purple in the last two weeks. Winners, each and every one!

    My wish list is growing by leaps and bounds!

    Time to bump this thread and enable somebody else.

    (For those interested in Anthracite, this Amazon Marketplace seller has 30ml bottles of the EDT for $25.

    http://www.amazon.com/shops/A3QOFMKI2AMRCW )

    I know! That Anthracite is super affordable! I am so glad to know you like those Jacomo scents. Does anyone know how it's pronounced, btw? I have always said zhah-COE'-moe (rhymes with Shaw-COMB-oh), but recently my boyfriend told me it was pronounced ZHA'-cuh-moe (rhymes with SAD-dumb-oh). Anyway...

  57. #117
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I've been pronouncing it ZHA'-cuh-moe (the second way), but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the right way. Either way, they make fine scents!
    A Scent Rescuer
    Every great perfume deserves a good home

  58. #118
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Tonight, I'd like to sing the praises of a totally overlooked dark, dry chypre. Falling somewhere on the spectrum between Soir de Lune and Eau du Soir is:

    La Perla La Perla



    The first fragrance from La Perla, this chypre is loaded with dark honeyed notes, a deep rose, loads of herbaceous notes and crazy-sexy chypre drydown! Moreover, I have smelled it in its latest incarnation, and it's very good.
    Finally, though it can be found in edt and edp both, I recommend the edt over the edp big time. The edp is a little too dense and sweet, whereas the edt has a nice bite and is is far more versatile.

    Don't let the fact that it's from an underwear company throw you off, I think it's a total must have for lovers of the dark chypre. Especially if you are already a fan of Sisley scents, L'Arte, Knowing, Diva... and the lot.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 22nd June 2010 at 03:46 AM.

  59. #119
    Basenotes Institution 30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    An inglorious offering to this lofty thread: vintage Ambush by Dana. I wore this as a teenager and still love it; it can be found for not too much money on eBay.

    I told my husband that when he wears Canoe, I'll wear Ambush and we can be scent twins.

    Who knows why, but when they reformulated, they made no attempt to make the new one anything like the old scent. The notes are completely different now. They might as well have given it a new name.


  60. #120

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Tonight, I'd like to sing the praises of a totally overlooked dark, dry chypre. Falling somewhere on the spectrum between Soir de Lune and Eau du Soir is:

    La Perla La Perla



    The first fragrance from La Perla, this chypre is loaded with dark honeyed notes, a deep rose, loads of herbaceous notes and crazy-sexy chypre drydown! Moreover, I have smelled it in its latest incarnation, and it's very good.
    Finally, though it can be found in edt and edp both, I recommend the edt over the edp big time. The edp is a little too dense and sweet, whereas the edt has a nice bite and is is far more versatile.

    Don't let the fact that it's from an underwear company throw you off, I think it's a total must have for lovers of the dark chypre. Especially if you are already a fan of Sisley scents, L'Arte, Knowing, Diva... and the lot.
    Well, Hillaire, you being an addict to the "Y" by YSL, try "Io" by La Perla....it is a sister to your signature!!!
    Love,
    B.

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