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  1. #61

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Yes, I blind bought again...
    (MUST STOP THIS!)
    Moschino by Moschino is delicious... I'm sniffing a bit of a Barbara Bui-ish incense note in it. (In fact I'll need to compare these side by side.)
    And on the other wrist... I'm wearing Metal. Didn't like the first blast (or rather, didn't NOT like it but didn't see the point) but the drydown is developing nicely. (Sorry, not good at picking out notes...)

  2. #62
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I love hearing back that people enjoy recommended scents. it's like charity work.
    C Rose, so glad you love Moschino.

    I just got a quality fruity modern rose scent: Molyneux Le Chic. (bookshop already mentioned it.) It turns out it can be bought for under fifteen dollars, too. I recommend this one a great deal to fruity modern rose lovers. It's not teeny; it's very "chic". Wish I had the notes.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 25th April 2010 at 05:21 AM.

  3. #63

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Oh, Hillaire... you get my vote as "Scent Pusher Extraordinaire on Basenotes"... in a good way. I am curbing my spending for a while now, but you DO make that pretty difficult with your great descriptions of scents that one must have!

    (evil, you are. <grins>)
    Actias luna's fragrance reviews | Now blogging with AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty at Il Mondo di Odore
    Art: Actias luna's other hobby
    - along with some impromptu "performance writing" here on Basenotes!

  4. #64
    Effluve's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit View Post
    Gosh, I received Silences today. It's a true gem and it only cost me 8€. Incredible. Thank you thread, thank you all.
    Isn't it glorious? So glad you discovered it. Like you, it's after reading about it here on Basenotes that I took the plunge and bought it blind. I loved it at first sniff!

  5. #65
    Evangeline's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I just got a quality fruity modern rose scent: Molyneux Le Chic. It turns out it can be bought for under fifteen dollars, too. I recommend this one a great deal to fruity modern rose lovers. It's not teeny; it's very "chic". Wish I had the notes.
    This is so excellent! Not only does this thread serve to inform us about scents we need to seek out, it's a good reminder of scents we might already have! I have a full bottle of this back home, but off the top of my head I can't imagine where it might be. In the last several months I've dug out four or five fragrances that I had neglected or forgotten about until someone mentioned them here on basenotes. They're usually minis (I'm sure I'm not alone in this but I have hundreds of minis - it's hard to keep track!) but with Twolf's help I found a full vintage bottle of Miss Balmain that I'd completely forgotten about! Now I'm tasked with finding that Le Chic! (I've moved a lot in the last 20 years, and I tend not to pack my perfume wardrobe all together because it's spread throughout several rooms. I'm not very organized, but this leads to such fun rediscoveries years later!)

    According to Perfume Intelligence, Le Chic de Molyneux is "a floral edp with notes of apricot, raspberry, peony, lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, oak moss and vanilla." It was originally released in 1932, discontinued then relaunched in 1995. Well okay then!

    Thanks yet again Hillaire!

  6. #66

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Wonderful, I know you'll love it! I'll stand behind my recommendation, too, Kevin. If you hate it, I'll buy it off you. I am wagering it's going to disappear with the new regulations,if it has not already been axed.
    Finally got to my new purchase, Moschino. In a word, glorious! Hillaire, thanks a million for this recommendation. It brings to mind, L'Heure Bleu, Sublime and Donna Karan Signature. A galbanum opening and a dollop of nutmeg, cloves and Ylang Ylang in the heart and lots of glorious patchouli, amber and vanilla in the base. My only complaint is the final dry-down, 4 -5 hours after application, is a bit meaningless, but at that point I'm willing to just spray it on again and start over.

  7. #67
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Hello all my dears.

    Just a couple of scents that I was thinking of that are rarely mentioned;

    Jacomo- Parfum Rare

    Capucci- Filly and Parce Que

    Nina Ricci- Mademoiselle Ricci and Fille d'Ève

    Céline- Magic

    Molinard- Orval and Calendal

    Jean d'Albret- Princesse d'Albret and Ecusson

    Alain Delon- Le temps d'aimer

    and oh so many others...
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  8. #68

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I think Tweed is probably on of the most underrated perfumes out there. It's easy to get and it's very cheap, but it gets very little attention.

    My mother says she used to wear it in the 1950s, so I bought her a bottle a few years ago. I think it's a wonderful and very traditional feminine fragrance.
    Last edited by sean-dt; 24th April 2010 at 05:56 AM.

  9. #69
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    Finally got to my new purchase, Moschino. In a word, glorious! Hillaire, thanks a million for this recommendation. It brings to mind, L'Heure Bleu, Sublime and Donna Karan Signature. A galbanum opening and a dollop of nutmeg, cloves and Ylang Ylang in the heart and lots of glorious patchouli, amber and vanilla in the base. My only complaint is the final dry-down, 4 -5 hours after application, is a bit meaningless, but at that point I'm willing to just spray it on again and start over.
    What wonderful news! Thank you for telling me! I am so glad you like it. My boyfriend has been wearing it lately, too. I find that it actually disappears a little too quickly, that after a few hours, it's gone.

  10. #70
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Wow, thank you for these, Brielle. I cannot wait to look into these!

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    Hello all my dears.

    Just a couple of scents that I was thinking of that are rarely mentioned;

    Jacomo- Parfum Rare

    Capucci- Filly and Parce Que

    Nina Ricci- Mademoiselle Ricci and Fille d'Ève

    Céline- Magic

    Molinard- Orval and Calendal

    Jean d'Albret- Princesse d'Albret and Ecusson

    Alain Delon- Le temps d'aimer

    and oh so many others...

  11. #71
    nyneve's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Graffiti Capucci

    and I'll buy Maria Candida Gentile Sideris
    A, quales ego mane rosas procedere vidi!
    Nascebantur adhuc neque erat par omnibus aetas.

  12. #72

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    +1 for Le temps d'aimer!

    And has anyone mentioned Eau de Calandre by Paco Rabanne?

  13. #73
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by nyneve View Post
    Graffiti Capucci
    All the Capucci fragrances brought up here, make me realize just what a GREAT, underestimated house it is!

    No one has mentioned the HTF Eau de Calandre-- nor Eau de Metal. Very unique fresh scents, which I consider myself very lucky to own.


    I'd like to mention a really unique scent here called Apogee, created for Les Senteurs and purchasable therefrom online. However relatively obscure, I cannot help but think it belongs alongside certain great, classic aldehydic-animalic wonders many of us here elevate; namely: Amouage Gold and the orginal First.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 24th April 2010 at 04:23 PM.

  14. #74
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    The original Leonard by Leonard is now officially one of my top three eighties-era leather chypres. (already mentioned by booksshop above) Densly leathered "green" chypre with a sublte soapy rose top bit and a rich, very old-styled Guerlain-esque rose-and-orris heart.
    Nothing about this scent says "women". And listen up! ... This is the closest scent to the illustrious, unattainable, discontinued genius leather chypre Parure ...in the world.
    I am even confirming this assertionnow with a side by side (Sigh...remember those Fine ingredients?? Sigh...). Stunningly similar. Shockingly similar. And so much cheaper and easier to find.

    I just posted a link to a good deal on some in the Great Deals thread.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 25th April 2010 at 05:23 AM.

  15. #75
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    I have been out of commission the last few weeks, and with loads of idle time, I have been going through my minis and vintage decants one by one for some real, solid wearings. Hence a lot of the re-discoveries I am sharing here. Tonight I am so happy tell you all about Lancetti Suspense (already mentioned by bookshop above). I think this one is still available on Amazon and stuff. It's a sin qua non -- what I call -- Soapy Galbanum Chypre. (Other notable examples being Ivoire, Arabian Wood, Safari, and Silences)
    I am going on a limb to say it's the best of the genre here, but I am in HEAVEN wearing it tonight. And I totally defy anyone who is crazy for Ivoire to try it and find me wrong.


    And it's totally unisex, naturally!
    Last edited by Hillaire; 25th April 2010 at 05:24 AM.

  16. #76
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Check many other Lancetti scents -- I think the whole range is undeservingly unknown and they DO have some hidden gems.

    Not yet mentioned:
    -- Pikens Arrogance pour Femme (80s floral, starts green and dries down woodelicious);
    -- Montana Eau Cuivree (90s floral with leather and civet upon settling), other Montana statement making avalanches of scent;
    -- Matchabelli Decadence (80s floral with mossy rooty ending);
    -- Les Copains original (blue packaging -- ultimate solemn acacia done in the mood of L'Heure Bleue);
    -- Casanova Plaisir (green floral with fruity undertones and most luminous sweet tonka) -- eat it, MDCI (this is about the bottle design)!
    Last edited by Twolf; 25th April 2010 at 09:30 AM.

  17. #77
    Eva Pasco
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    My unsung treasures are the unexpected, inexpensive, chance encounters I discovered on a shelf at Walmart: Bodycology's Gardenia (the truest imitation I've ever sniffed) and Nutrius Velvet Tuberose (not the tuberose one associates with Fracas, but a sweet misrepresentation that works for me).

  18. #78

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Okay I am adding another I just discovered due to a VERY generous, lovely basenoter. I did not even know this floral chypre existed, and it is PERFECTION. I haven't been this excited about a new thing since I discovered Amouage Jubilation, I kid you not. And I NEVER see it mentioned here; in fact it only has three reviews. It's so complex, so enticing, so plush, and very elegant. SIGH!

    Sabi
    by Henry Dunay

    I was passing by Neiman's today and went in to try the Sabi -- and the SA said they don't carry it anymore! (she said the Henry Dunay company has gone bankrupt -- I googled this when I got home and saw it was true.) But, she was able to find the tester and so I got a spritz. Indeed, it is an elegant, smooth chypre! I see the Neiman's website still carries it, as well as Bergdorf etc. (the smaller size which I think does not look like the bottle pictured below, being more squat!) And presumably may be around for years at discounters and such?
    (edit: small, .67oz size is slim bottle shown, larger size, 1.4oz, is squat shape)
    (edit: gone from Neiman's etc, now on ebay)
    Last edited by C Rose; 25th May 2010 at 03:38 PM. Reason: updates

  19. #79

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Sabi is gorgeous! A Basenoter sent me a decant of that a while back and it's so worth searching out if you love rich greens.

    I've been longing for a bottle of Weil's Antilope. Someone sent me decant of that but I never was able to discover whether it was vintage or recent, or what formulation. It's inexpensive to buy on ebay, but I hate buying full bottles blind (even though I still do it occasionally). This thread is dangerous for me. Lots of interesting fragrances are mentioned.

  20. #80
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by lilybelle View Post
    Sabi is gorgeous! A Basenoter sent me a decant of that a while back and it's so worth searching out if you love rich greens.

    I've been longing for a bottle of Weil's Antilope. Someone sent me decant of that but I never was able to discover whether it was vintage or recent, or what formulation. It's inexpensive to buy on ebay, but I hate buying full bottles blind (even though I still do it occasionally). This thread is dangerous for me. Lots of interesting fragrances are mentioned.
    Liliybelle,I have some Antilope of the octagonal, eighties/nineties era bottle, I'd be happy to share with you. I have to say, though, as a HUGE fan of ZIBELINE and Bambou, I find this worse than insipid. It's so generic to my nose, I imagine it was the "dimestore"Vanderbilt-equivalent of it's day, a wan aldehydic nothingness. I got none of the purported "grassy plains" or parched deserted landscapes some reviewers apparently did. But I have not tired the oldest versions! What was your sample like?? And what color? Mine is lightest muted yellow.

  21. #81
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by C Rose View Post

    Sabi
    by Henry Dunay

    I was passing by Neiman's today and went in to try the Sabi -- and the SA said they don't carry it anymore! (she said the Henry Dunay company has gone bankrupt -- I googled this when I got home and saw it was true.) But, she was able to find the tester and so I got a spritz. Indeed, it is an elegant, smooth chypre! I see the Neiman's website still carries it, as well as Bergdorf etc. (the smaller size which I think does not look like the bottle pictured below, being more squat!) And presumably may be around for years at discounters and such?
    I am feeling a little faint with neuron overload now! Another one (and not a cheap one) I feel I must "stockpile" post haste. Such a loss, such a shame... Such importance, such importance....

  22. #82
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Check many other Lancetti scents -- I think the whole range is undeservingly unknown and they DO have some hidden gems.

    Not yet mentioned:
    -- Pikens Arrogance pour Femme (80s floral, starts green and dries down woodelicious);
    -- Montana Eau Cuivree (90s floral with leather and civet upon settling), other Montana statement making avalanches of scent;
    -- Matchabelli Decadence (80s floral with mossy rooty ending);
    -- Les Copains original (blue packaging -- ultimate solemn acacia done in the mood of L'Heure Bleue);
    -- Casanova Plaisir (green floral with fruity undertones and most luminous sweet tonka) -- eat it, MDCI (this is about the bottle design)!
    Twolf, I agree so much! LAncetti is a classic Italian house, with a reliable, good-quality, never-in-bad-taste line-up! I also cannot recommend their classic Via Condotti enough. A warm green-lovers, green chypre, that would charm lovers of Calandre, Ma Griffe and Miss Dior. It's more gentile and warm-blooded and modern than those, but that's the gist.


    Twolf I am glad to hear an endorsement for Les Copains; it's caught my eye for a time, but I have not tried it yet. Have you tried the newer version with the gorgeous butterfly design on the box? It seems quite easy to find. Is that one any good?

  23. #83
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    Hello all my dears.



    Capucci- Filly and Parce Que

    Nina Ricci- Mademoiselle Ricci and Fille d'Ève



    and oh so many others...
    Brielle, I appreciate anything you might suggest, my impression is that your taste is impeccable! I was most eager to look into the Capucci and Ricci scents, since I LOVE those houses without exceptions so far! I was able to find affordable bottles of both the Ricci Mademoiselle and the Capucci Filly. But I would LOVE you'd describe them for me, or at least tell me what sort of scents they are. Thank you so much, Brielle...or anyone else who might know these scents!

  24. #84
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Lilybelle, the Antilope that is sold on ebay, the EdC in the octagonal shaped bottle is horrible compared to the original. I have smelt the original and it is truly a treasure worth seeking out.
    Hillaire, if this is the version you have, i am not surprised that it does not send you over the moon. The original extrait and the EdP are just glorious and they have that grassy plains/Serengeti like feel.


    Another unsung classic (or two)

    Eau Frivole by Fragonard

    Sketch by Molinard (a great Chypre )
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  25. #85
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    Brielle, I appreciate anything you might suggest, my impression is that your taste is impeccable! I was most eager to look into the Capucci and Ricci scents, since I LOVE those houses without exceptions so far! I was able to find affordable bottles of both the Ricci Mademoiselle and the Capucci Filly. But I would LOVE you'd describe them for me, or at least tell me what sort of scents they are. Thank you so much, Brielle...or anyone else who might know these scents!
    The Mlle Ricci is a wonderfully soft green scent. It is not a green/chypre exactly, but it is not a true fresh green scent. It is something green, elegant and sophisticated. It is a 60's green scent, slightly chypre but far removed from the Dior chypre scents of the 40's and 50's and not as intense as the green/chypre scents of the early to mid- 70's.

    Filly is a wonderful aldyhidic fruit/floral from the 80's. When a fruit/floral was not a badge of shame and lacking in creativity and panache. It brings to mind what Quartz by Molyneux would be like if it were created in the 80's.
    Hope this helped.
    Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source

  26. #86
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by bookshop88 View Post
    Hi my gorgeous Hillaire,
    FANTASTIC thread! I have some more Unsung Treasures to add to the list:

    1. Iceberg Universe
    2. Luciano Soprani '2 by Soprani'
    3. Enrico Coveri Enrico Coveri (for women the original)
    4. Enrico Coveri Firenze
    5. Leonard original (for women)
    6. Lancetti Suspense
    7. Lilith by Callaghan
    8. Pierre Cardin original for women
    9. Marbert Women
    10. Marbert Scarf Taormina
    11. Brooksfield Nuance
    12. Morabito Mon Classique
    13. Yves Rocher vintage 8e jour
    14. Molyneux Le Chic
    15. Trussardi Fresh for Women
    16. Trussardi Light Her
    17. Trussardi Action
    18 Olivier Strelli for Women
    19. Capucci Opera III (especially if you adore NOA from Cacharel!)
    20. 'G' from Gigli (especially if you like cherry in a perfume from the master Sophie Labbe)
    21. Donna Borsalino (hard to get sadly)
    22. Soprani Solo Rosa
    23. Yves Rocher (almost all vintages) and not to forget 'Rose Ispahan'
    24. and the gorgeous gorgeous Nazareno Gabrielli original.

    The list is not complete yet, but just to get you started...
    Love,
    Bookshop

    I am working y way through these bookshop! WOW!! Many of these, the super-lovely super-aficionado bookshop was kind enough to share with me, and I am STUNNED!

    Capucci Opera III is more like the incomparable Soprani 2 than Noa to my nose, though I can see it as a sort of (like you said) all grown up Noa, with sophistication and worldiness -- if Noa is fifteen, Opera III is forty. Opera III is a floral aldehydic with rich musky, tobacooed, sensual base. It strikes me as the finest of Capuccis, and stands as my favorite at present.



    Trussardi Action was a TRUE surprise, and surprises are most welcome! It's a GREENER than GREEN leather that lasts forever and has so much character, it's almost improbable. It's a loud, attention-getting scent that somehow never goes into the territory of trashy, as it's so stylish and fashionably off-color. This one, if it were a niche release, would be blowing men's and women's minds! It's quite related to the orginal women's, white-croc Trussardi, and almost seems like a re-tooling. I can assure you all, if you like Trussardi original, Action will float your boat big time. Not a feminine scent at all either.


    Lilith by Callaghan is a gorgeous sexy scent! It's a sweet, vaguely Oriental floral chypre with a sparkly bit. I don't know why I want to comapre it to Sublime, as it's more youthful, but that's the vibe I get nonetheless. Really gorgeous. Fun yet sexy.
    Last edited by Hillaire; 27th April 2010 at 03:42 AM.

  27. #87
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    And finally for today!

    My favorite Trussardi, and maybe the least recognized one of the house:


    Donna Trussardi. In my review I wax ridiculous, as I just love this one so much. But I have to say, as great, stand-out, aldehydic classics go (like Sublime and Ferre by Ferre), this one is at least as good, and never fails to amaze me that it's also a hard-core "leather". A virtuous, elegant, quality, classic-status-worthy forgotten scent. I wore it again yesterday and thought all day how strikingly fine it was. And I see it on ebay all the time!

    Last edited by Hillaire; 27th April 2010 at 03:43 AM.

  28. #88
    Hillaire
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    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Brielle87 View Post
    The Mlle Ricci is a wonderfully soft green scent. It is not a green/chypre exactly, but it is not a true fresh green scent. It is something green, elegant and sophisticated. It is a 60's green scent, slightly chypre but far removed from the Dior chypre scents of the 40's and 50's and not as intense as the green/chypre scents of the early to mid- 70's.

    Filly is a wonderful aldyhidic fruit/floral from the 80's. When a fruit/floral was not a badge of shame and lacking in creativity and panache. It brings to mind what Quartz by Molyneux would be like if it were created in the 80's.
    Hope this helped.
    Thank you SO much Brielle! That was really helpful, and moreover really ''exciting news, and I am imagining them already. Get ready, Paypal!

    I am also "glad" to know my Antilope was the "bad" one, especially since I value vintage Weil generally. They must have released some real junk toward the end! I also smelled the last version of Zibeline recently, which was more heartbreaking than its discontinuation. Very thin and barely animalic. The sevenites bottle my mother has is even richer than Cuir de Russie or vintage Tabac Blond. What a STUNNER.

  29. #89

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Quote Originally Posted by Hillaire View Post
    I also cannot recommend their classic Via Condotti enough.
    Via Condotti pour Homme is also nice with a prominent-lasting peach note.

  30. #90

    Default Re: Unsung Treasures

    Always such a pleasure Hillaire!! You have so much class and so much taste!!! It really really enhances my joy in the sharing of fragrances, when the other person has sooo much taste!!!!
    You truly are one in a million!!
    Bookshop
    Last edited by bookshop88; 27th April 2010 at 06:30 AM.

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