Thread: Unsung Treasures
Hillaire, not that Les Copains, not in a black packaging with a butterfly. The one I am thinking of comes in a tall and slim bottle and in a plain royal blue box.
I have tested the new one too -- nothing to write home about, a fruity floral with musk in the dryout, mind you -- the white synthetic one.
Last edited by Twolf; 27th April 2010 at 11:56 AM.
Last edited by lilybelle; 28th April 2010 at 12:28 AM.
Furthermore...this thread in itself is a treasure!
[/QUOTE]Brielle, I think there was a new edp formulation that came out after the edc that is so cheap on ebay and that is supposed to be horrible (although I could be confused). Is it the newer edp that you are referring to, or strictly the vintage?[/QUOTE]
Oh goodness, for me it is always vintage if available. The Antilope I had was vintage and it was divine. I smelt the EdC at a fragrance store in Boston and it was meh at best. Even the shop owner said it was a sad reflection of the original. I have never smelt the newer EdP and would probably disappointed, as I am with many re-orchestrations, they always seem to be a sad impression of their former selves.
Last edited by Brielle87; 28th April 2010 at 12:38 AM.
Quand on boit l'eau, il faut penser à sa source
True, Brielle, that when you've known the original, reformulations, even if well done, just don't measure up.
Tonight, I shall sing the praises of Vendetta by Valentino...
For those women who aren't "afraid" of knock-'em-dead fruity orientals ala Poison, I cannot recommend this one enough. I actually cannot wear Poison find Vendetta intoxicating. It's fruity introductory accord is to drool for and reminds me of a more sophisticated version of Hanae Mori, but it develops into a opulent, very-fine Oriental along the lines of Ubar. I suspect this scent employed some pretty tasty, now-defunct ingredients. And though this discontinued scent appears a tad pricey, I emphasize that any modern house actually using ingredients this fine or making scents this natural and symphonic would charge a LOT more...
Finally, the sillage on this lady is like nothing on earth. I don't think I own another scent that keeps hitting me with whiffs of perfection all day like this one does. And like some other true greats, its sillage is a totally different perfume than the close-up version. What strikes me a touch too peachy when smelling wrists, is a creamy, deep symphony from a short distance. And it makes my clothes smell IMPOSSIBLY nice. Oh, and it lasts for days, of course.
So, if you like some other classical, plummy, Oriental heavy-hitters, like Poison, Talisman, C'est la Vie, Nicole Miller or even Gem, please don't overlook Vendetta, which in my opinion is the best of its era.
Last edited by Hillaire; 4th May 2010 at 05:08 AM.
Wow! This thread is amazing.....I thought I had heard of almost everything but it seems I've barely scratched the surface. I will say there is a vast difference in quality out there. It is the luck of the draw. I also got a bad bottle of Antilope so I won't go there again. Sometimes I get lucky on blind buys. Turbulences was one. I have it in the parfum & it is lovely. It seems to be full of oakmoss.
See my blog; http://www.basenotes.net/blogs/2645-kumquat
Is everyone else making a list, too?
Moschino and Pheromone were already mentioned. Balenciaga Talisman rarely gets mentioned, but I love the chocolately fruit cake on a chypre base. Liz Claiborne Vivid to me is the perfect violet scent, not candy sweet, but warm and complex.
Jacona! I am so glad you mentioned Talisman!! I kid you not, it was next on my list to write about!! To my nose, it's a better alternative to Angel. Not necessarily the same-smelling. But a rich plummy, chocolate Oriental that actually smells refined. I am always impressed with how nice it actually smells on skin... sumptuous, perfumey, and warm. It's sweet in a not-offensive way, too. Talisman!! It's discontinued, and since it has relatively no following, bottles are still affordable. The notes say it all! (osmanthus, litchi, dried prune, pineapple, aldehyde, peach, hyacinth, bourbon, bergamot// cyclamen, carnation, iris, freesia,jasmine, ylang ylang, muguet, rose // leather, santal, tonka, ambergris, patchouli, musk, coconut, vanille, beeswax, caramel, cedar) I can actually pick out EACH one! Now that I ponder, this will appeal to all lovers of Mauboussin.
Last edited by Hillaire; 4th May 2010 at 05:09 AM.
Most of us are very familiar with First and the newer scents from Van Cleef & Arpels, but I believe they made their best fragrances in the early nineties.
The most gorgeous release from this house IMO was Gem (1990), a lush, dark, plummy, fruity rose chypre, not unlike Knowing. It's a true collectible, and an wise investment, as it was one of the great scents of its era. An important thing to be aware of when hunting down VC&A vintages is that this house's reformulations were very drastic. But fortunately, those that were reformulated can be easily identified by their generic, white boxes. The original Gem formula came in a red, marbled box.
I grow fonder and fonder of the sweet and "clean" Oriental Van Cleef (1994)! With top notes of raspberry and aldehydes, it strikes me as something of a prim, Patrician predecessor of Hanae Mori. I honestly wonder how much Hanae Mori was influenced by Van Cleef! It's a very good quality "modern" Oriental and marks a departure from the animalic, heavier Orientals that ruled a few years before, like Boucheron. It's soapy, fruity, and effervescent, with a rich vanillic drydown. The original formulation can be identified by its blue and gold box. It's still in production, this one, but I find the newest version rather bland.
Besides First, the only other Ellena effort released by this house was the tragically-ignored Miss Arpels (1993), a poorly marketed, not-actually-for-girls sophisticated, mossy, somewhat-dry, proto fruity floral. This beauty is dirt cheap!! Moreover it was discontinued before the house implemented its reformulation rape of their whole line, so all bottles available are 'good ones'.
Last edited by Hillaire; 4th May 2010 at 03:42 AM.
Jacques Fath's Fath de Fath is another, favorite, more-obscure Oriental of mine. I suspect it was somewhat different in its original formulation in 1954, because it seems a bit more modern than that. It was discontinued recently. No doubt because of all of its rich, fine ingredients. To my nose, it's opening is somewhat similar to the new luscious, heady Natori fragrance... perhaps its hefty dose of plum. (I sure love plum!) It is surprisingly sweet for an older scent by by no means cloying. In fact it's the amount of sweetness I prefer in an Oriental. Its base is tonka bean rich and heavily vanillic and always reminds me of Cristobal. It's still easily found online, and not-yet outrageously overpriced. A true classic, gorgeous, paradigmatic Fruity Oriental. The bottle is one of my favorites.
Last edited by Hillaire; 5th May 2010 at 07:18 AM.
Yes Hillaire you are so right!! plus 1 on the Fath de Fath!!
Ok fellow unsung treasures fans, I got a good deal on Morabito Mon Classique. What should I expect when it arrives?
Oh my! I want to try so many of these now! Remember Molyneux Quartz? I wonder whether that one is worth revisiting. I had that a million years ago. It must have been reformulated by now. I just bought Jessica McClintock at Marshall's and I've been loving it over the past couple of days. Hillaire, I read your review of it and laughed. It's very funny.
Lilybelle, I used to wear Quartz in the early 80's and I bought some again a couple of years ago. I honestly don't notice a huge difference, if at all, unless my olfactory memory is failing me. I wouldn't hesitate getting it again, if I were you. It really is a great scent.
I'll keep my eye open for it. thanks!
Reporting back that I am now the proud owner of Le Chic & Moschino Beautiful scents and very reasonable! Retirement fund intact. So glad they were posted here
These notes I found on the net!! NO WONDER IT IS SO GORGEOUS!
Lancaster Eau de Concentree / Bath and Body
Top notes: Orangeblossom, Neroli, Bergamot, Lavender, Tagetes, Basilicum, Coriandre, Thyme.
Heart notes: Jasmin, Tuberose, Mimosa, Geranium
Base notes: Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandelwood, Galbanum, Incense, Vanille, Civet.
ST Dupont's Orazuli is a lovely, refined floral Oriental with a youthful air.
It first impresses me with a very sparkling white floral accord (peppery freesia really holds center stage), but quickly reveals it's Oriental undertones, which are very close in spirit to Hanae Mori's eponymous paradigmatic, sugary classic.
My initial take on it was that it was "too much", the floral and the Oriental seeming stuck together, but I found myself craving it, as the floral aspects really work to lighten and spruce up its overall effect. It's lovely.
The bottle is cool. And it's still cheap.
Last edited by Hillaire; 18th June 2010 at 10:16 PM.
Bookshop, Lancaster Bath and Body is a mad-crazy, herb-shoppe dream-chypre! Somewhere between O de Lancome and Sisley Eau du Soir.
Not an easy one to find!
Last edited by Hillaire; 18th June 2010 at 10:19 PM.
Oh, this thread! Since it started, I've gone cuckoo for Jacomo! I have purchased Anthracite, Silences and Silences Purple in the last two weeks. Winners, each and every one!
My wish list is growing by leaps and bounds!
Time to bump this thread and enable somebody else.
(For those interested in Anthracite, this Amazon Marketplace seller has 30ml bottles of the EDT for $25.
I know! That Anthracite is super affordable! I am so glad to know you like those Jacomo scents. Does anyone know how it's pronounced, btw? I have always said zhah-COE'-moe (rhymes with Shaw-COMB-oh), but recently my boyfriend told me it was pronounced ZHA'-cuh-moe (rhymes with SAD-dumb-oh). Anyway...
I've been pronouncing it ZHA'-cuh-moe (the second way), but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the right way. Either way, they make fine scents!
Tonight, I'd like to sing the praises of a totally overlooked dark, dry chypre. Falling somewhere on the spectrum between Soir de Lune and Eau du Soir is:
La Perla La Perla
The first fragrance from La Perla, this chypre is loaded with dark honeyed notes, a deep rose, loads of herbaceous notes and crazy-sexy chypre drydown! Moreover, I have smelled it in its latest incarnation, and it's very good.
Finally, though it can be found in edt and edp both, I recommend the edt over the edp big time. The edp is a little too dense and sweet, whereas the edt has a nice bite and is is far more versatile.
Don't let the fact that it's from an underwear company throw you off, I think it's a total must have for lovers of the dark chypre. Especially if you are already a fan of Sisley scents, L'Arte, Knowing, Diva... and the lot.
Last edited by Hillaire; 22nd June 2010 at 04:46 AM.
An inglorious offering to this lofty thread: vintage Ambush by Dana. I wore this as a teenager and still love it; it can be found for not too much money on eBay.
I told my husband that when he wears Canoe, I'll wear Ambush and we can be scent twins.
Who knows why, but when they reformulated, they made no attempt to make the new one anything like the old scent. The notes are completely different now. They might as well have given it a new name.