Code of Conduct

View Poll Results: Today's perfumers vs. yesterday's

Voters
36. You may not vote on this poll
  • Yesterday's perfumers were better than today's

    24 66.67%
  • Today's perfumers are better than yesterday's

    12 33.33%
Results 1 to 26 of 26
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1,837
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    What is your personal opinion as to whether today's or yesterday's perfumers were more skilled.

    Or perhaps you feel they are equally skilled.
    Last edited by JonB; 11th April 2010 at 08:45 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    i think yesterdays were better,now we have dumbed down the fragrance game for people who dont care about fragrance nor can appreciate nice quality frags.

  3. #3
    The_Cologneist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    4,744
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    (Speaking of colognes and not perfumes.)
    I think stuff before the new millennium was made with higher quality.. many colognes now seem watered down. I feel like there's much more of a variety though in smells since the new millennium. For example Drakkar Noir, Fahrenheit, and even Le Male = high quality colognes IMO. Where as Nautica Voyage, IZOD, and several CK's, etc all have nice smells but very poor longevity and projection. To me, many colognes of the new generation are one step up from body sprays. So I guess in essence I prefer colognes of yesterday.
    Last edited by The_Cologneist; 11th April 2010 at 09:22 PM.

  4. #4
    CanwllCorfe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    2,385
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    23

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    It's hard to say really.. people say this about everything! Movies were better back in the day, music was better back in the day, people acted better back in the day, etc. It's all subjective. Not all old fragrances are masterpieces and not all new fragrances are horrible and vice versa.
    “Love is when a girl puts on perfume and a boy puts on shaving cologne and they go out and smell each other.”
    Karl, age 5

    Swapping
    Selling
    Seeking

  5. #5
    timaru's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Berlin
    Posts
    2,485
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    5

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Well, granted, yesterdays perfumers had higher quality ingredients, (because of) less stupid regulations by so called institutions and presumably higher budgets at their hands. Also the very true aspect that todays perfumers are meant to create somewhat ever suitable perfumes that are enjoyed by all people puts the stake very high and hence limits daringness (as it might put you out of business once and for all quickly) I appreciate those who still come up with fragrances such as M7. (Morillas/Cavallier) Notable mentioning include RG ph, Opium PH, Cavalliers creations as well.
    And I dont want to forget about Maurice Roucel, not only for MR but as well as Rochas Man. Truly captivating creations.

    And in the end, the mainstream trend has more contributed to niche perfumery than one might expect and I am VERY thankful for people like Tauer, PdE or others to not go along with the crap but produce extraordinary fragrances that are, to me, art.


    Alas the modern perfumers get the vote.
    Last edited by timaru; 11th April 2010 at 09:38 PM. Reason: Roucel added

  6. #6
    KMF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    3,329
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Tough to say...

    While it's true that yesterday's scents were generally better and more unique, todays perfumers not only have to compete with everything that was done before them, but they have many more obstacles (regulations) to deal with. When something of substance is created today it really is a remarkable achievement all things considered...

  7. #7
    gido's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Amsterdam
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    the older ones, no doubt about it. but they had some advantages over the new generation. they could specify much higher quality materials than perfumers can nowadays, for instance because of costs and restrictions. perfumery got cheaper and has lost some of it's greatest source materials. but probably equally important: roughly a century ago everything was waiting to be invented. i am afraid that a new francois coty simply can't exist at this point in time.

  8. #8
    Hillaire
    Guest

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Most of my favorite perfumer's are alive and working, and were still the best of yesteryear. Like Ellena or Nicolai. This question does not work for me.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    I think this question is unanswerable. Things weren't better before and things aren't better now, they're just different.

  10. #10
    Cartoonish Royalty Le Grand Duc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Copenhagen
    Posts
    7,146
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Todays!

    I like very few of the pre-1980 perfumes!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    I think on a technical level most of today's perfumers would be considered 'better' than yesterdays. They've typically got a deeper understanding of chemistry, there are a lot more chemicals to know and understand nowadays, they face more IFRA regulations and limited price per liter of juice constraints, and they have to fine tune their fragrances more to appeal to the masses.

    As much as people disparage scents that are mainstream - and later labeled generic - there is a ton of balance and fine tuning that goes into these generic scents; at least the ones that are actually good. Alex Lee, known on BN as Scentophile, is a perfumery student and has analyzed Acqua Di Gio for Men for instance, and says that the formula is not only very long and complex but extremely finely balanced.

    While it may be difficult to create very 'out there' scents, their limited by nature audience may allow the perfumer to get away with less fine tuning. Trying to create a scent that is literally enjoyable to millions if not billions of noses... that isn't easy!
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 12th April 2010 at 04:48 AM.
    ***For sale:

    Iris Pallida 50ml

    Ungaro I 75ml

    and more!
    - http://www.basenotes.net/threads/301...n-Man-and-more

  12. #12
    blas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Puerto Rico
    Posts
    592
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Todays!
    "Nothing breaks up a team faster than.. Herpes"


    -- Top --
    (1) Guerlain Tonka Imperiale (2) Creed Millesime Imperial
    (3) Creed Silver Mountain Water (4) Creed Aventus
    (5) Creed Green Irish Tweed (6) Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Malt
    (7) Amouage Reflection Man

  13. #13

    narcus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Königl. Preussen
    Posts
    4,579
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    I think this question is unanswerable. Things weren't better before and things aren't better now, they're just different.
    I was about to formulate my answer when I saw that good old Ruggles had already given it!

    If I may add: It seems that today's perfumers have a much larger toolbox. Just thinking of 21st centuries captives, I imagine it to be much easier for them to come up with new things. However where are their visions for 'shockingly' new perfumes of a high quality, perfumes that could make us forget having lost the originals of Tabac Blond, Mitsouko, Cuir de Russie, or Bandit, or those legendary Cotys that most of us have never even smelled ? Three contemporary niche house, or a total of 5 - 10 perfumers is plenty for my life, but not not for the world.

    Since Montale brought Arabian perfume culture to 'the west' I have not smelled anything similarly different from what we had before. That was the last eminent change to the western fragrant landscape.
    Last edited by narcus; 13th April 2010 at 09:29 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14
    Ken_Russell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sibiu
    Posts
    17,616
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Even if today, stunning fragrance creations keep appearing, I still think- due to a matter of personal taste, no snobbery or prejudice involved- I still think that fragrance history was written by some past creations impossible or hard to replicate nowadays.

  15. #15
    PawelL
    Guest

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    I see myself as a man of yesteryear but I can still appreciate a true visionary.

    Regards,
    P
    Last edited by PawelL; 12th April 2010 at 06:06 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    That's like asking if the artists of the past are better than the artists of today. Kind of hard to compare art. I mean of course there's the regulations and trends that influence how dumbed down or not the perfumes end up but what it boils down to is that I don't think you can objectively compare art.

  17. #17
    jenson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Bombay
    Posts
    5,903
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    History moves very slowly...Noir epices maybe revered as a mitsouko 30 years from now...who knows.

    strictly answering to the choices available i chose "Today's perfumers are better than yesterday's "

    older fragrances used to smell somehow similar overall. i mean take Derby - Habit rouge - Equipage - Patou ph - Moods uomo - monsieur rochas et al.. there is a overall smell to it which is very similar to each other. rarely ever something very unique like Bogart Furyo used to get released...

  18. #18
    StylinLA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    4,321
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    I can't answer it either. The older perfumers had so many fewer restrictions. But then again, the modern perfumers have so many more options with synthetics. Tough call.

    Too, there's an overlap in that many modern perfumers were also the older perfumers (Guerlain e.g.).

    We won't know for many years what scents among the current crop will be highly regarded.

  19. #19
    rogalal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Berkeley, California
    Posts
    3,353
    Post Thanks / Like
    Blog Entries
    33

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    I think that age makes us forget the forgettable. Sure, some generic, formulaic throwaway from today can't compare to Misouko or Chanel No 5. But it's easy to forgot that there were generic, formulaic throwaways back then, too. Pitting the best of now against the best of history, I think great things continue to be done. So I vote for a tie.
    Has everyone checked out my Top 100 Blog??

  20. #20

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Those of the past by far.

  21. #21

    narcus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Königl. Preussen
    Posts
    4,579
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Quote Originally Posted by RoteRosen View Post
    I see myself as a man of yesteryear but I can still appreciate a true visionary.
    How deep have you been diving, so far? Amouage, Montale, Lutens, Villoresi, Editions Malle? None of them has broken with the past, and yet some of what they released points to new directions.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  22. #22
    Olfacta's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    a large city in the Southeastern U.S.
    Posts
    286
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Apples and oranges, I think; yesterday's perfumers were perhaps given more room for artistry while today's (and I'm speaking of mass market, not niche, in both cases) are given $2 out of 100 for materials, because $98 must go for marketing designed to increase short-term profitability.
    Olfacta
    also at http://olfactarama.blogspot.com
    Musings and random thoughts about the genie in the bottle

  23. #23
    PawelL
    Guest

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Quote Originally Posted by PB101 View Post
    Apples and oranges, I think; yesterday's perfumers were perhaps given more room for artistry while today's (and I'm speaking of mass market, not niche, in both cases) are given $2 out of 100 for materials, because $98 must go for marketing designed to increase short-term profitability.

    Sad, but VERY true.

  24. #24

    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Da Bronx!!
    Posts
    1,015
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    What's wrong with those Old Perfumer's, having the audacity to make scents that were Daring

  25. #25

    jrd4t's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Washington, DC
    Posts
    4,419
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    Quote Originally Posted by JonB View Post
    Or perhaps you feel they are equally skilled.
    You forgot to include that option.
    I'm a colognosaurus. Rawr!

  26. #26
    Sugandaraja's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    6,392
    Post Thanks / Like

    Default Re: Who were the better perfumers, yesterday's or today's?

    I wonder how much today's perfumers are being conflated with today's perfumes on this thread. The two are definitely not one and the same, as among the designer selection, at least, a perfumer is working to please so many other people's needs ( costs, ingredient restrictions, the demands of the company to a greater degree than before ).

    To get an idea of what today's perfumers are doing relatively unhampered by demands of the mass-market industry, artisanal perfumery and perhaps a few creator-driven niche lines like Frederic Malle are a better indication. If the mass-market side of the industry demands Velveeta and perfumers deliver Velveeta, then it's a matter of commercial survival rather than creative spirit, and it's rather unfair to expect a superior aged cheddar.

    As for the perfumers themselves...

    Yesterday's perfumers had a smaller palette of aromachemicals, a cheaper and often higher quality naturals ( often due to fragrance resources now mostly exhausted, like Mysore sandalwood or natural musk ), and very few restrictions on their palette.

    Today's perfumers have a truly vast palette of aromachemicals, expensive and increasingly restricted naturals, and a host of restrictions on cost and ingredients that past perfumers didn't face, at least to the degree of today's market.

    Things like technical knowledge, and so on, I can't comment on.

Similar Threads

  1. UK perfumers: Sources for Perfumers Alcohol??
    By moondeva in forum Fragrance DIY
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 12th October 2011, 12:53 PM
  2. Today's haul
    By Killer_Vavoom in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 20th September 2005, 05:24 PM
  3. Today's trip...
    By Xen in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 30th July 2005, 03:35 PM
  4. Today's haul
    By in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 1st January 1970, 01:00 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •