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  1. #1

    Default Masculine chypres?

    I tested Guerlain Mitsouko and Chanel Pour Monsieur on my 2 wrists the other day and I was struck by their chypre similiarity.

    Are there still many masculine chypres on the marketplace? I am particularly interested in the complete and original chypre structure (bergamot, light floral notes, oakmoss and pachouli basenotes, with a bit of labdanum ciste) and not just scents with oakmoss in the base.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    That's easy: Numero Uno by Carthusia. My very favorite masculine chypre. Also try Derby by Guerlain.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 12th April 2010 at 05:29 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    That's easy: Numero Uno by Carthusia. My very favorite masculine chypre.
    +1. I liked it because of its similarity to Mitsouko.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    the original eau fraiche by christian dior.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Chypre may be my favorite fragrance category.

    Chanel Pour Monsieur may be the best of the masculine chypres. Quorum is also quite good.

    Many of the best feminines are also easily worn by men: Miss Balmain, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Estee Lauder Azuree.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    I can't believe how good Pheromone for Men (Miglin) is and how little "respect" it gets. Well, I've got my 100 ml bottle, so I'm set !

  7. #7

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by Advocate View Post
    Many of the best feminines are also easily worn by men: Miss Balmain, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Estee Lauder Azuree.
    all of these are leather chypres.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Derby

  9. #9

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Aramis.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Another vote for Derby, and I second the twins (much like Apollo and Diana/Artemis) of male and female scents in Aramis and Azuree.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Aramis and Aramis Classic Reserve (which is even better)
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by gido View Post
    all of these are leather chypres.
    Yes, which is why I mention them in a thread about chypres.

    Quote Originally Posted by fraddicted View Post
    Aramis.
    Oh, how could I have forgotten!

  13. #13

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Does anybody else like Sagamore? I love this one for its complexity. It' s one of those fragrances that seem to dance on the skin before they settle down. You could even believe it has gone off. But no! that's the way it behaves... Lovely weird stuff.
    I think Basala also quilifies as a chypre. This on is a very old love for me. One of those that I discovered long before I knew I was a fumehead. I still have a bottle and it is an absolute joy to wear.
    Last edited by cpk; 12th April 2010 at 11:59 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by Advocate View Post
    Yes, which is why I mention them in a thread about chypres.
    and that's good. i just wanted to point it out, because these belong in a rather different category from mitsouko and chanel pm, both being classic chypres. (and so is eau fraiche)

    i should mention one of the very first and greatest leather chypres, knize ten. it is interesting that the great francois coty was one of the two perfumers who created it. and unlike anything by the coty brand, it is still in great shape.
    Last edited by gido; 13th April 2010 at 12:11 AM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Tiffany for Men.

    Not a "complete and original chypre structure" but a classic chypre nonetheless.
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 13th April 2010 at 12:42 AM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  16. #16

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Dont forget eau savauge

  17. #17

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Aramis, Chanel pour Monsieur

  18. #18

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Kouros is a GREAT chypre.
    Last edited by kxe003; 13th April 2010 at 05:13 AM.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    I'm no chypre expert, but I gather Domenico Caraceni 1913 is considered a chyrpre and it's pretty awesome juice.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Chanel Pour Monsieur is great
    Off-Site Decants =) (updated 05/16/12)
    http://flacon.ambaric.net/viewtopic....7994440fd3c0ab

  21. #21

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    The classic chypre-vibe I get immediately from:

    Mistouko
    Chanel pour Monsieur
    Eau Fraiche, Dior
    Soul le Vent
    Derby
    Profumo (vintage) Acqua di Parma
    Ô de Lancôme
    Numero Uno, Carthusia
    Albi, Laura Tonatto
    XPEC Origianl

  22. #22

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by kxe003 View Post
    Kouros is a GREAT chypre.
    Isn't Kouros a fougere?

  23. #23

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by zliang View Post
    Isn't Kouros a fougere?
    yes, kouros is predominantly an aromatic fougere.
    there's a chypre accord in there too, but only tertiary, after the aromatic fougere and the spices.

  24. #24

    Thumbs up Re: Masculine chypres?

    HERMÈS ' EQUIPAGE , IMO is the best !
    Have I told you about the scent of jasmine? Have I spoken about the smell of the sea? The earth is scented. And I perfume myself to enhance what I am. That's why I can not wear a perfume that bothers me. Perfuming is an instinctive wisdom. And like all art, it requires some knowledge of yourself..."
    Clarice Lispector ( 1920-1977) - Perfumes da Terra / Earth
    Perfumes

  25. #25

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    I can`t believe that I`m first to mention Amouage Gold Man, Amouage Silver Man. Seems like nobody wears it?
    Also - good old Boucheron pour homme! The EDP is brilliant!

    (I believe that Kouros and Equipage are spicy fougeres (I always felt like this), but I could be wrong. As for Sagamore - I`d say spicy wood. But who cares?)
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  26. #26

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Chanel PM is, imo, simply the king of classic masculine chypres. Subtle and beautiful.

    But there are endless numbers of wonderful chypres for men to wear (many, of course, are marketed to women). Among those not yet mentioned: Bandit and Balmain de Balmain (the former is a leather chypre; the latter a very green chypre).

  27. #27

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    In light of the current spirit of tolerance and respect for one another, perhaps it would be useful to preface anything one may be inclined to label as "masculine" or "feminine" with the qualifier "traditionally", so as to avoid confusion and conflict. I don't see how any of this helps the OP, who asked a good question and deserves thoughtful responses.

    Monsieur, I think Halston Z-14 qualifies as a (traditionally ) "masculine chypre" and it is incredibly inexpensive in United States, if not elsewhere. Certainly one that I am really starting to come around on.
    Last edited by Emlynevermore; 14th April 2010 at 04:27 AM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    The thing about chypres, to me, that makes them unique is that the scent is "abstract," in that I don't really equate it with anything in the "natural world," and yet it doesn't smell "synthetic." It also has good if not excellent dynamism.

    As to the issue of a "masculine" chypre, the way I think of it is the chypre is the base, so the top notes can be "feminine" or "masculine," but after and hour or two you should end up in the same place. There might be a hint of this or that top/heart note, but the chypre base will likely be much more pronounced than anything else.
    Last edited by Bigsly; 14th April 2010 at 04:39 AM.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    ***
    Last edited by arlecchino; 14th April 2010 at 04:44 AM.
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  30. #30

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Giorgio Beverly Hills For Men. And I think if Chanel Pour Monsieur were instead called Wal-Mart Pour Monsieur it wouldn't get nearly as many accolades as it does. It's just so boring!

  31. #31

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by zliang View Post
    Isn't Kouros a fougere?
    "A divine and conquering spicy chypre fragrance with a powerful and intense trail." - www.ysl-parfums.com

  32. #32

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Sure - fragrances (and chypres as frag family) does not have gender.

    It`s easy to understand though - that author of the thread means to know some chypres that were intentionally made for men, or pour homme. That bottles with "pour homme" or "for men" on them.

    Nice question - I`m tired to read all the same great names of green or leather chypres made for fair half but good for guys. I`m glad to know about Tiffany FM and to remember Boucheron PH.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  33. #33

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Fendi Uomo the real Masculine chypres

  34. #34

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    I think I removed most of the posts that are more about the gender of perfumes in general than anything else.

    Please don't derail this thread again
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    It`s easy to understand though - that author of the thread means to know some chypres that were intentionally made for men, or pour homme. That bottles with "pour homme" or "for men" on them.
    Yes, that was my intention exactly. Beyond my interest in chypres (a future purchase this year) I am very much interested in probing the concept of genre in perfumery (chypre, fougères, leathers, orientals...)

  36. #36

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    I'm joining the ranks of those who suggest Derby. It's marketed specifically to men, but happens to smell fantastic on me too.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    My SOTD is a classic chypre marketed to men, R de Capucci.
    Last edited by fraddicted; 14th April 2010 at 10:30 PM. Reason: mis-spell

  38. #38

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by fraddicted View Post
    My SOTD is a classic chyphre marketed to men, R de Capucci.
    That's such a great one, and sooooo versatile. I love wearing it!

    My favorite masculine chypre, and one that I actually think of as "R de Capucci, now with spicy-skanky florals!", is Aramis 900.
    Last edited by arlecchino; 14th April 2010 at 07:19 PM.
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  39. #39

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by kxe003 View Post
    "Kouros - A divine and conquering spicy chypre fragrance with a powerful and intense trail." - www.ysl-parfums.com
    That`s interesting news, thank you!

    Now one could also visit www.chanel.com to find out that our beloved Chanel pour Monsieur is classified as fresh citrus fragrance, not chypre!
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  40. #40

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    The CpM is probably my 2nd fave Chypre, and it would have been my favorite Chypre if it is not so shy and a skin-scent even after an hour. I still like spraying it on the inside of my hat though as it makes it smell great every time I walk by my hatstand.

    For regular wearing, my fave male Chypre would have to be Mitsouko.

    Tiffany for Men smells to me more like a dry Woody Oriental although it stuns me how the opening smells so much like CpM.
    Q: How do you make a feminine fragrance masculine?
    A: Add 'Pour Homme' to the bottle
    - Pierre Bourdon

  41. #41

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    rive gauche

  42. #42

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by fraddicted View Post
    My SOTD is a classic chypre marketed to men, R de Capucci.
    I would agree with fraddicted that R de Capucci is a fantastic chypre, and well worth the effort to find a bottle. Another fragrance which meets your note requirements (bergamot, light floral notes, oakmoss and pachouli basenotes, with a bit of labdanum) and is an interesting, yet inexpensive chypre fragrance is One Man Show by Jacques Bogart [http://www.basenotes.net/group.php?d...cussionid=376]. Very interesting juice!
    Last edited by SillageMonger; 17th April 2010 at 10:08 AM.

  43. #43

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    ^^^^^
    SillageMonger, do you wear One Man show very often? Can you compare it to any other fragrances at all? I'm always so curious about this one because based on it's notes I think I would love it, and then I read such terrible reviews of it!....It's almost as divisive as Yatagan...which reminds me...

    Yatagan is my other go-to masculine chypre, it's really a great one if you like herbal, rustic, natural scents. (However, it doesn't have that "classic" chypre structure you're specifically looking for Chassagne, i.e. I don't get citrus in the top notes at all and definitely no florals.)
    Last edited by arlecchino; 16th April 2010 at 08:25 PM.
    “I wanna say something. I’m gonna put it out there. If you like it, you can take it, if you don’t, send it right back…."

  44. #44

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidBond007 View Post
    rive gauche
    Isn't that a classic barbershop fougere rather than a chypre?
    Q: How do you make a feminine fragrance masculine?
    A: Add 'Pour Homme' to the bottle
    - Pierre Bourdon

  45. #45

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by arlecchino View Post
    ^^^^^
    SillageMonger, do you wear One Man show very often? Can you compare it to any other fragrances at all? I'm always so curious about this one because based on it's notes I think I would love it, and then I read such terrible reviews of it!....It's almost as divisive as Yatagan...which reminds me...

    Yatagan is my other go-to masculine chypre, it's really a great one if you like herbal, rustic, natural scents. (However, it doesn't have that "classic" chypre structure you're specifically looking for Chassagne, i.e. I don't get citrus in the top notes at all and definitely no florals.)
    It is definitely a maverick in the chypre world... it's the Desert Chypre. The high-plains sagebrush and cedar chypre... but not "classic chypre by any stretch.) (I love it nonetheless. It's chypre designed for the environment of my childhood.)
    Last edited by actiasluna; 17th April 2010 at 05:40 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  46. #46

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    arlecchino: I don't think of OMS as a chypre because I get little or no amber. Moreover, it doesn't come together to produce that unique accord I smell in Mitsouko or Pheromone for men. Instead, it's a nice blend of "masculine" notes. It's in the same category as Kouros, though, in that it is more of a blend with a lot of notes, and so it comes across as "old." It never registers as animalic to me, but rather there is an odd "root beer" like thing going on, which is the only reason it's on my swap list. I should probably try to dilute it and see it solves the problem, but I have a feeling that it won't. My guess is that if you have the right skin chemistry (that is, if your skin "eats up" frags) OMS will be a very pleasant experience.

  47. #47

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?


    Unabashedly called masculine by their houses or vendors:


    (selection based on my personal preferences)

    Fresh Chypres:

    Williams Aqua Velva Ice BlueSt.
    Laurent >YSL pour Homme<
    Aramis Devin

    Woody (green) Chypres:

    Classic Vetivers (Vetyver) - by almost any house ...
    Fendi Uomo
    Givenchy Gentleman
    Aramis 900
    Delon Iquitos
    Lord Molineux

    Green Chypres :

    Beene Grey Flannel
    Dior Fahrenheit
    Cerruti Non Cerruti
    Knize >The Knize Two<
    Lanvin Monsieur Lanvin, 1964 (discontinued)

    Leathery Chypres:

    Chanel Antaëus
    Hermes Bel Ami
    Piguet Cravache
    Davidoff Davidoff
    Loewe Esencia
    Guerlain Derby
    Balenciaga Ho Hang Club
    Jil Sander Man Pure
    Krizia Uomo
    Léonard pour Homme
    Moschino pour Homme
    Bogart One Man Show
    O de la Renta Pour Lui
    Balenciaga Portos
    Puig Quorum
    Farina Russisch Leder
    Knize >>The Knize Ten<<
    Trussardi Uomo
    Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels
    Versace L'Homme
    Caron Yatagan

    (Leathery)-Coniferous Chypres
    :

    Rochas Globe

    Roger & Gallet L'Homme
    Montana Homme
    Aramis New West
    Ralph Lauren Polo
    Muelhens Sir(Irisch Moos)
    Last edited by narcus; 17th April 2010 at 04:00 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  48. #48

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by actiasluna View Post
    It is definitely a maverick in the chypre world... it's the Desert Chypre. The high-plains sagebrush and cedar chypre... but not "classic chypre by any stretch.
    i've never been in a desert but you could be right. :) yatagan is a dry woody scent.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Quote Originally Posted by arlecchino View Post
    SillageMonger, do you wear One Man show very often? Can you compare it to any other fragrances at all? I'm always so curious about this one because based on it's notes I think I would love it, and then I read such terrible reviews of it!....It's almost as divisive as Yatagan...which reminds me...
    Built on an traditional chypre frame is a dry, smoky, leathery, resinous fragrance without much of the floriental or fougere components usually used to dampen, fill out, or even take some of the edges off leather or green fragrances. That's not necessarily a bad thing!


    If you ever needed an antidote for fresh clean sporty aquatics, One Man Show would be it.

  50. #50
    vita odorifera
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    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    More oldies:

    Captain Molyneaux
    Maxim's pour Homme
    Giorgio of Beverly Hills VIP
    ointments and perfume delight the heart....

    #BBOG!

  51. #51

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    AFAIK Tactics by Shiseido was made for men, and it`s quite rare chypre.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  52. #52

    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Emlynevermore: "In light of the current spirit of tolerance and respect for one another"...allow me to dictate how you should talk.

  53. #53
    DeepSilence
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    Default Re: Masculine chypres?

    Aramis 900
    Aramis
    Aramis Devin
    One Man Show

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