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  1. #181

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Oesel:

    Orange Flowers, Petitgrain,
    Rose, Jasmine, Acacia, White Flowers,
    Patchouli, Cedarwood, Tobacco Flower


    Fleur du Male.
    -

  2. #182

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Continuing with...

    Nio:

    Neroli, Calabrian Bergamot
    Cardamom, nutmeg, rose pepper, 'mysterious spicy notes'
    Cedar, Guaicwood, Patchouli, Haiti Vetiver

    An aromatic fresh/woody fragrance, Nio opens bright, lemony and leafy and showcases a peppery/spicy heart notes phase...fans of Original Vetiver and the ilk will like this one. But while Original Vetiver further develops the green/leafy accord (with the spicy notes in the background), Nio brings spices to the forefront and pushes the citrusy/leafy notes to the background. But these aren't your typical spicy notes...while not listed, I get a clear coriander note that dominates Nio's heart notes. Also this isn't your typical coriander note either....it smells starkly like the aroma of a real crushed coriander, with the freshness permeating its arresting spiciness (usually the focus is on just the spicy facet). I am assuming this is a unique distillation of the coriander oil that I atleast haven't experienced in any fragrance before.

    Cairomerta, can you confirm if Nio uses coriander/coriander seed oil and whether its a particular/unique type of distillation ? It could also be a new coriander aromachemical from Robertet not yet in full circulation.

    Overall, a quality light vetiver fragrance with a fantastic coriander note...fresh, woody, easy to wear.

    Hi ZZ. Here is some additional notes:


    Head note:
    Bergamot, Tunis Neroli, Rose Pepper, Cardamom, Nutmeg

    Heart note:
    Jasmin, Green leaves

    Base note:
    Cedar wood, Guaiaco Wood, Patchouli, Haiti Vetyver, Amber

    I can find out for you if there is coriander in this and how it is distilled. I should be having a conference call with Sergio tomorrow so I can ask. I know that speaking to Sergio a while ago about NIO, he has told me that this is one of the most expensive Shooting stars to make reaching almost the same costs as the 17/17 line. Maybe I can find out that for you tomorrow but indeed it is such a wonderful green, leafy spicy scent.
    Last edited by cairomerta; 15th May 2010 at 10:02 PM.

  3. #183

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Congrats!

    Dhofar today:
    Lavender, Pine needles, Jatamansi, Orange Flower, Carnation, Australian sandalwood, Patchouli, cistus labdanum

    The opening is great - coniferous, minty-herbal pine needles with a bit of soft citrus to soften the edges with a bit of sweet lavender at the top which lasts mere seconds. A couple of minutes later the basenotes already start appearing...lots of dry, woody-spicy leathery good quality labdanum, a bit of earthy patchouli and woods. I don't know if its just the vial or the actual juice structure but it seems like there are no heart notes in Dhofar. The opening is clearly the highlight, and while the labdanum dominated base is nice enough it materializes all too quickly and persists for a fairly long time.
    Dhofar's top notes stay a bit longer on me, but yes, I do get the labdanum/woods/patchouli rather quickly. This one seems a nicely traditional masculine and the leathery notes are just beautiful. There is a "clove" carnation phase that has got to be the heart notes, and the blending of top-heart-base is again pretty smooth as it seems to be with all Xerjoffs I've tested. The "clean soapy minty pine" (if you get that) sticks around on me for quite a while as the heart and base develop, and remind me of the traditional men's scents I smelled quite often when I was a kid, that "favorite uncle's scent" again. The base is definitely a drier, woodier, earthier thing, none the less lovely for it.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  4. #184

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Just wanted to share some amazingly beautiful pictures by our very own jrd4t. Thank you so much for these!






















    Last edited by cairomerta; 19th May 2010 at 10:18 PM.

  5. #185

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Uden today (for starters)

    I did get just a touch of the fresh grapefruit on the opening notes, and in a funny way the top reminds me of an (don't get me wrong) insect repellant that I actually liked the smell of, from my past. (perhaps it's a slight citronella impression, yeah probably.) What strikes me most about the Xerjoff line is how when I reach for many of my non-Xerjoff scents, how many of them seem pale and synthetic, ingredient-wise, in comparison. (sighs... my nose is absolutely spoiled by the quality of the ingredients in Xerjoff)

    This is a pretty, pretty, pretty (and subtle, definitely the unisex side of masculine) spicy woody fougere to me. I have read quite a few "coffee and rum" descriptions, we'll see, that's not coming up on me as defined as on others. Or as one put it, maybe as a hardcore espresso drinker, I'm anosmic to the coffee.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  6. #186

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Kobe

    Well I was bound to find a scent in the 18 or so that just isn't clicking for me and Kobe is the one. Although I do smell the Xerjoff quality, and this is another quite unisex offering, the notes and composition of this one are not "for me" at all. So I will move on to... Nio and Ibitira, tomorrow.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  7. #187

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by actiasluna View Post
    Kobe

    Well I was bound to find a scent in the 18 or so that just isn't clicking for me and Kobe is the one. Although I do smell the Xerjoff quality, and this is another quite unisex offering, the notes and composition of this one are not "for me" at all. So I will move on to... Nio and Ibitira, tomorrow.
    Thats interesting... was it the incense in it that didnt work?

  8. #188

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cairomerta View Post
    Thats interesting... was it the incense in it that didnt work?
    I'm not quite sure. I got just a teensy citrus opening then wood, and I usually love this "flavor" of scent, but there was something about it on my skin. Maybe it's the balsam resin that's putting me off it, or maybe it just does something "different" on my skin. (wish I could analyze better what it was doing.)
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  9. #189

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by NEoTY26 View Post
    I've been wearing Uden & Kobe trying to figure out which one if either warrants purchase. Kobe's opening has extremely lush petitgrain & orange blossom that runs through the composition, but with progressively less vigor. The mid & base notes are as equally intriguing as the top notes. As the top notes fade the spicy elements start to peak out, which I swear contains a tiny amount of cinnamon, and in combination with the oud this creates a very sensual spice accord. Coumarin is listed as an ingredient so I'll attribute that to the balsamic/woody aspects. These woody & spicy elements in unison with the very fresh top notes is outstanding. My only problem is the longevity. I've sampled this with an atomizer using 3 sprays to the chest and 1 spray on each wrist, and it's hard to detect it after 4 hours ~ having to stick nose to wrist in order to detect Kobe.

    Uden is interesting, but not because of grapefruit. The opening is definitely citrus, but for me it lacks the qualities that are distinctive of grapefruit: those wonderful sulfurous notes. (guess I like piss!) The vanilla coffee and rum are apparent while sniffing the atomizer, also unsurprisingly when sprayed on skin. They only amplify as the scent progresses. The opening combination of neutered grapefruit and rum-coffee-vanilla is somewhat unpleasant compared to the later progression of the grapefruit burning off. From that point on I really enjoy this fragrance. A really sexy coffee fragrance with rum and vanilla. Uden has fantastic longevity, easily lasting 8+ hours.

    So I ended up ordering a bottle of Kobe despite the longevity issues because it is a great pleasure while it does last. It will be the night companion to Tubereuse 40 (Le Labo), which is orange blossom but with the energy of tuberose.

    Quick thoughts on some of the other fragrances - As mentioned in the thread Modoc reminds one too much of Tam Dao's screechy cedar/sandalwood. Oesel is a very pleasant and have to sample further. Dhofar is okay, but there are more interesting pine fragrances out there. Tobacco Oroville smells like tobacco bubblegum, no kidding!

    I'm really enjoying sampling Xerjoff. Thanks for the samples Cairomerta!
    Hi Neo! Did you end up getting your Kobe bottle and how do you like it sprayed vs applied via a sample blotter. It diffuses so much better from the spray doesnt it!
    Last edited by cairomerta; 18th May 2010 at 08:27 PM.

  10. #190

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    SoTD Xerjoff Ibitira... what a lovely warm masculine (nay VERY unisex) floral/woody scent! This brings to mind the interiors of well-appointed, antique and flower-filled stately homes. (or as my less poetic coworker put it, "old musty houses, in a good way") The Iris-rose-woods blend softly into a sweet but earthy vetiver/vanilla in a... well, actually, kind of a "Chanel" way. I wish I had more than the little sample vial that I am conserving so I may send on enough for another to sample, as wearing this every day for a week would be a lovely thing. Nice stuff!

    (xposted from women's forum, scent of the day)

    Am giving Oroville another sniffage tonight and hoping my olfactory department isn't doing psychedlics as it apparently was when I first reviewed it.

    And... the opening is definitely a peppery citrusy fresh tobacco today.

    Still getting the slight "soapy" that I associate with clary sage on my skin, and still getting lots of "movement" as in there seem to be loads of notes clamoring for my attention... but definitely not in a bad way.

    Tonight the SALTY in oroville is coming to the front, I wonder what combination of notes does that? (trying not to TRY TOO HARD as I think that's what confused me last time.) I am intrigued by this scent and it is definitely a masculine on me.

    Definitely not "Tobacco bubblegum" on my skin! *though I like that image*.

    I have a feeling that this Xerjoff is the scent equivalent of a "mood ring" on me!
    Last edited by actiasluna; 19th May 2010 at 12:02 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  11. #191

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Homme-
    This is leather syrup..The top starts off like straight shots of gasoline birch tar with a mediterranean citrus chaser. This is a Home run...its starts at home base which is the Leather note, mediterranean citrus and fresh exotic spices . 1st base is herbs and cloves..so it is a little spicy but in a good way. The spice helps the citrus to blend and not go on top or underneath the leather..but more like get in sync with the leather. 2nd base is lavender flowers, Lysilang and Ylang-Ylang...I feel the lavender is the dominate floral, the Lysilang and Ylang-Ylang are the background singers to to help the blend not sound so rough around the edges. 3rd base complex woods, vetiver and more Leather...complex woods im not sure what that is..I smell a faint interesting wood. Vetiver adds to the smoke of the Leather and keeping the florals in check. Then Homme comes full circle to leather, mediterranean citrus and fresh exotic spices. Dont let the other notes fool you...they make this thick, realistic Leather wearable. This is as real as Leather comes. Smoother than the Tom Ford..thicker than Cuir Ottoman..more uncut then Cuir de Russie. Home Run
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  12. #192

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Homme is amazing leather, and a wonderful long-lasting leather with all those yummy supporting notes, at that! +1 on the "Home Run" statement. If I were to have the choice of only one or two Xerjoffs *which is pretty much true as they are rather out of my price range - (other than having won the Fiore d'Ulivo)*... I'd pick Homme and Esquel for my wardrobe.
    Last edited by actiasluna; 19th May 2010 at 01:45 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  13. #193
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    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by cairomerta View Post
    Hi Neo! Did you end up getting your Kobe bottle and how do you like it sprayed vs applied via a sample blotter. It diffuses so much better from the spray doesnt it!
    Hey! Just received Kobe today actually. All of the samples (except for 17/17) were put into atomizers. The top notes are less sweet than last noted, but IMO that has something to do with the cooler temperature. Really went liberal with 6 sprays to the chest and Kobe is still detectable 7 hours later, although mainly on clothes. And the heart-base is my favorite part though it's sillage is very tame... I'd love a more tenacious version perhaps with less top notes & more base!

  14. #194

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    A couple of more beautiful pictures from jrd4t. This guy can take pictures!!









    Last edited by cairomerta; 19th May 2010 at 10:17 PM.

  15. #195

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Irisss-
    In Homme by Xerjoff ..they did a good job letting leather be leather. Well, for Irisss this is very much in the same vein, iris is just iris. I always thought Amouage showcased the Rose in Lyric Man as stripped down, authentic and natural. In Irisss I get that same vibe. They simply highlight the raw notes…instead of making them compete for other notes attention or distract them from the feature note. Welcome to the house of iris, here you will find variety of butter of Iris, Carrot seeds and Rose and Ylang – Ylang. For the base you will find rare woods, resins and incense. When you first apply this scent you smell iris and musk. The iris is cool, not rooty or dirty. It definitely has the carrot, lipstick, doughy texture, but it is not loud and obnoxious. I get a soap kind of musk, not the alka seltzer soap that’s in the Infusion(Prada)..This has no fizz. This has no metallic top to add character or dominating floral to sidetrack you. Irisss lets rose and ylang-ylang guard the door will the iris runs the show. I get a wood mix that is so restraint it is almost transparent. I get a thin layer of dry incense on the bottom of this performance; it’s like a different smell all together. The carrot seeds put in work…I think that they are secret weapon of this fragrance. Irisss is very clean, light and morning dewish. This is not thick or heavy at all, but it last all day.
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  16. #196

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    mega... I +1 the IRISSs ...

    And I have to say that the design of the Xerjoff line caps (I know, LOL) is quite impressive. I thought hey what a funny looking cap... but when I got the Fiore d'Ulivo and removed that substantial, yet ergonomic cap, this is quality stuff. Hefty, even!
    Last edited by actiasluna; 20th May 2010 at 12:40 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  17. #197

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    XXY
    This is not based around one note, like the other two in the 17/17 collection. Good News, the quality is still up to par with the rest of the collection. The comparisons to Daim Blond are very accurate. I think it is the fruit usage that is what resembles these two masterpieces. Daim Blond is a Suede fragrance…with floral on mute. XXY accentuates that floral aspect, while introducing a well tempered black pepper. The top is black pepper (light), smoke from the patchouli and a good dose of bergamot. This kind of throws you off, because you cant get a glimpse of where this is going. Then the pepper dissipates and the patchouli and bergamot leads you to a soft jasmine and ylang- ylang. Then the florals, patchouli and bergamot go back to meet the pepper. But pepper brought some friends along, precious woods and amber. Yeap..that smooth amber…I also get a leather like note in here, although its not listed in the notes. I like to layer this with Daim Blond to amp up the fruit and add a dose of suede…the results are AMAZING
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  18. #198

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Mega, I definitely got the leather in XXY too.

    Aren't Xerjoffs just top of the line? (wish some of em had better longevity on me though, that's my ONLY complaint.)
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  19. #199

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    The 17/17 collection has excellent longevity on me. The quality and formulas are far superior to most of the niche houses.
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  20. #200

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I'm not bashing the Xerjoff fragrances in the least bit, but I'd just like to point out quality does not make a fragrance great. A great perfumer can make mediocre ingredients smell great and a poor perfumer can do the same for great ingredients. Some of the fragrances truly are great, but I just don't want people to fawn at the quality and assume the fragrances are going to be amazing.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

    Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan

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  21. #201

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by megatropolis View Post
    The 17/17 collection has excellent longevity on me. The quality and formulas are far superior to most of the niche houses.
    I agree. There are major issues with the Xerjoffs and longevity (EDIT: with SOME of the scents) with me, just as there are with some of the Chanels and Guerlains. That is a major factor in my decisionmaking, as scents that are expensive for most folks by my standards should have good longevity. Of course this may be a) my skin, and b) anosmia... but the scents I've tested from Xerjoff probably need to be tested for a longer period of time and from an atomizer decant to make a TRULY educated decision regarding their value as related to longevity.
    Last edited by actiasluna; 20th May 2010 at 04:17 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  22. #202

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    - duplicate
    Last edited by actiasluna; 20th May 2010 at 02:28 AM.
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
    [B]Art[/B]: Actias luna's other hobby[/URL] - along with some impromptu [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/threads/268480-Why-Mouchoir-de-Monsieur-Act-III-Resumed"]"performance writing"[/URL] here on Basenotes!

  23. #203

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    cairomerta, how did your conference call with Xerjoff go? Were you able to squeeze in my question?
    -

  24. #204

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Hi ZZ. I am so sorry I havent gotten back to you earlier. i will actually find out tomorrow as I didnt get a chance to have the call with him. My apologies. 100% tomorrow you will have that answer!

  25. #205

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Whats this that I read on the site about meteorite dust or something being used in or on the bottle ??????????

  26. #206

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Pour_Monsieur View Post
    Whats this that I read on the site about meteorite dust or something being used in or on the bottle ??????????
    Actually thats not the case. Sergio Momo, who started Xerjoff, has been a fan of space and meteors all his life. This is why he created a line called the shooting stars collection. Inside each Shooting Stars gift box version, tucked in a velvet bag, is a piece of the actual meteorite that fell in Siberia in 1947 called "Sikhote-Alin."

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sikhote-Alin_meteorite
    Last edited by cairomerta; 20th May 2010 at 04:08 PM.

  27. #207

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by mtgprox05 View Post
    I'm not bashing the Xerjoff fragrances in the least bit, but I'd just like to point out quality does not make a fragrance great. A great perfumer can make mediocre ingredients smell great and a poor perfumer can do the same for great ingredients. Some of the fragrances truly are great, but I just don't want people to fawn at the quality and assume the fragrances are going to be amazing.
    I can get where you are coming from. I just wanted to add to my post...I said that because this is the only house where there wasnt a fragrance that was a scrubber. Some of the Shooting Stars were just OK, none of them were a thumbs down. The 17/17 is a 3 for 3...
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  28. #208

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread (All samples sent out today)

    Tonight, Nio

    This Xerjoff, for my nose anyway, has the loveliest sparkly topnotes of the whole line... a beautiful fresh green citrus...neroli, bergamot, coriander?... cedar? This top smells like breeze off a fresh cool forest near a body of salt water, like that green cedary scent you get when you crush fresh herbs, but without the high "medicinal" note. It must be the combination of the bergamot, neroli, and cardamom. A near-metallic cilantro/coriander note as the topnotes soften into a spicy beautiful citrusy scent. What a lovely cool/warm, green/woody combination this is!
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  29. #209

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Looks like Shooting Stars Collection is at Luckyscent now as well! They didn't do an announcement and don't have them in the newest additions section, so perhaps that's still to come.
    http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/categ...d/Xerjoff.html
    I'm a colognosaurus. Rawr!

  30. #210

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Tonight... Shingl.

    This scent intrigues me because the first five seconds were (and not in a bad way, just a "got MY attention!" way)... camphor? What? What could be making THAT note?... followed by a deliciously spicy and warm/sweet/shimmering/ever-changing and extremely pleasant experience. I could smell vanilla soon after the quite interesting out of the bottle 'camphor' note, and am wondering how bergamot, basil, and anise could combine in such a way. This is a very SENSUAL scent indeed, and the iris soon comes to the fore, with a compelling and not cloying sweet spicyness that is frankly a little swoon-worthy. I will write more on the drydown, but this is a FUN, warm, sexy, gorgeous scent so far!

    xposted
    [URL="http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/38140"][B]Actias luna's fragrance reviews[/B][/URL] | Now blogging with [i]AromiErotici, Carrie Meredith, Mimi Gardenia, Sugandaraja, Asha, bluesoul, shamu1, Redneck Perfumisto and Daly Beauty[/i] at [URL="http://aromierotici.blogspot.com/"][B]Il Mondo di Odore[/B][/URL] [URL="http://www.ebsqart.com/Artist/Kathleen-Harper/3794/Art-Portfolio/1/"]
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  31. #211

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    The Xerjoff Shooting stars line including samples are now available at Luckyscent.

    http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/categ...d/Xerjoff.html

  32. #212

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Tried Modoc again,

    For those who are familiar with Tam Dao, imagine it crossed with an iris scent, say, Infusion d'Homme. It's a softer, smoother Tam Dao that is less scratchy and without any gasoline like notes. They say iris and vetiver but there's definitely some sandalwood and cedar in here, or a very strange vetiver distillation that smells like sandalwood and cedar (i've never come across any vetivers like this, though). It's nice, smooth, relatively understated, but rather linear. Ingredients are good, not great - definitely not "in another league" compared to other high end niche houses, and I think comparatively this smells more synthetic than a lot of othe other Xerjoffs - and the composition is competent but a bit boring.

    3.5 stars for ingredient quality + 2.5 stars for composition/originality = a 3 star rating from me.

    Fans of Tam Dao and iris should definitely check this out. Also, those looking for a dry, woody scent that isn't harsh or particularly outdoorsy, should give this a sample.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 25th May 2010 at 11:19 PM. Reason: revised rating
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  33. #213

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Tried Modoc again,

    For those who are familiar with Tam Dao, imagine it crossed with an iris scent, say, Infusion d'Homme. It's a softer, smoother Tam Dao that is less scratchy and without any gasoline like notes. They say iris and vetiver but there's definitely some sandalwood and cedar in here, or a very strange vetiver distillation that smells like sandalwood and cedar (i've never come across any vetivers like this, though). It's nice, smooth, relatively understated, but rather linear. Ingredients are good, not great - definitely not "in another league" compared to other high end niche houses, and I think comparatively this smells more synthetic than a lot of othe other Xerjoffs - and the composition is competent but a bit boring.

    3.5 stars for ingredient quality + 2 stars for composition/originality = a 3 star rating from me.

    Fans of Tam Dao and iris should definitely check this out. Also, those looking for a dry, woody scent that isn't harsh or particularly outdoorsy, should give this a sample.
    Hey SoS. Welcome back! Do you think it is the Artemisia you are smelling that is giving you that note. (Artemesia is also known as wormwood, mugwort, sagebrush and sagewort and most commonly Absinthe.)

  34. #214

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    It might be Cairo, although I don't pick up the other qualities that I get in wormwood essential oil. Perhaps Xerjoff is actually recreating the smell of the live plant instead of using the oil? In the oil I pick up a VERY aromatic, minty, green nuance. The freshness is unique and is undoubtedly provided by the thujone in wormwood, as I've found that same freshness in every other essential oil that contains thujone. I don't pick up those qualities in the scent and I can't imagine how one could remove them from the essential oil - they are its primary notes, and as mentioned, strong. I don't know what the living plant smells like though, so that may be it.

    The more I think about it, it could be a particularly woody iris that they are using. I've found some C02 extracts of iris to be quite woody and smooth, much like the smooth woodiness here. I still think there is some sandalwood present though, or at least some sandalwood aroma chemicals. The end result is that it smells like a nice mysore sandalwood.

    I'm going to wear this one again soon. I think it might grow on me. I still don't think that it's particularly amazing compositionally, but then I don't always demand (or want!) that in a scent. Sometimes something that is simple, understated, but just damn good is what I crave. That, and I like the more understated scents (sadly, a lot of the scents I love are extreme powerhouses with nuclear longevity.. i'm trying to find more subtle replacements for things like M7, Fleur du Male, etc), and Modoc seems to fit into that category. At least based on applying via dabbing.

    Are all the notes listed at Luckyscent correct? They list: Lemon, orange, artemisia, Florentine iris, orange flowers, vetiver, vanilla absolute, amber, musk
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 25th May 2010 at 11:19 PM.
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  35. #215

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Hi SoS. Great explaination! Yes, the ingredients listed on luckyscent are the correct notes in Modoc. Modoc is definitly a unique scent that I find has an understated elegence. I tend to like to wear it more in the winter though.

  36. #216

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Cairo, I agree - we've been really enjoying Modoc here. It wears magnificently on me, and I was almost jealous at how much I enjoyed it on the GF when she has worn it. I really do find it wonderful - I've yet to encounter another scent with the treatment of iris and vetiver that this one does and the musk used isn't your clean, run-of-the-mill variety but much more sultry. Love it!
    I'm a colognosaurus. Rawr!

  37. #217

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jrd4t View Post
    Cairo, I agree - we've been really enjoying Modoc here. It wears magnificently on me, and I was almost jealous at how much I enjoyed it on the GF when she has worn it. I really do find it wonderful - I've yet to encounter another scent with the treatment of iris and vetiver that this one does and the musk used isn't your clean, run-of-the-mill variety but much more sultry. Love it!
    You know I think I am going to have my wife try it too. I always wear my Xerjoff scents and she wears her own Xerjoff scents but I never really have her try the "mens" versions. The one time she did try a mens scent was Uden and she received a lot of compliments. I would love to see how it wears on her.

  38. #218

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I've tested a few more:

    Homme - A blast of gasoline and burning rubber up top. I'm not a fan of leather scents, and this opening is rather horrid imo. Too much birch tar. That being said, this settles down within 5 or 10 minutes and what follows is a slightly herbal leather. I get hints of basil along with the ylang ylang rounding out the leather in the heart. The base is more leather, soft but thick.

    It's nice enough, but I couldn't bear that opening on a regular basis. Given that I don't much like leather, this is not a scent for me. Even so, if I were to go the leather route I think I'd go with something like ELdO's Rien, which has a more interesting composition to my nose. This scent, like so many of the Xerjoffs, has great ingredients coupled with a "tradtional" formula (by traditional I mean it's following an established formula for the genre of scent that the particular scent falls in). Yes, I really find that to be the case with many of the Xerjoffs, and perhaps that's why so few are really pushing my buttons. They aren't introducing anything really new, they are just (usually) improving on a tried and true formula.

    I can't be objective on this scent, so my subjective rating is 2 stars.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 28th May 2010 at 04:58 AM.
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  39. #219

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Dhofar

    An excellent opening of galbanum, a hint of lavender, and a healthy dose of pine needles. This quickly fades as a smooth carnation (not buttery, more soft and clovey) takes center stage. The pine needles and earthy galbanum underscore the clovey carnation and the whole thing smells very soft, smooth, and traditional. This persists for quite some time. Slowly, a smooth and leathery labdanum (smells more like the absolute than oil) note fills out the accord. Clean, soft, and lightly spicy. A weird association I am getting while sniffing this is one of the blue Old Spice deodorant sticks.. but I mean this in a good way.

    As others have noted, this smells very traditional. Something you may have smelled on your father or greatgrandfather, even. A great opening, a good if not particularly innovative heart, followed by a similar drydown. The longevity was good on my skin - over 8 hours.

    While I don't feel this is at all 'me', and I don't feel inclined to own it, I do think it's a solid 4 star scent.
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  40. #220

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Tobacco Oroville
    I get some orange flowers up top, a good dose of roman chamomile (and man, that stuff is sweet!). The tobacco is no doubt a tobacco absolute, which is quite high in coumarin (as is lavender absolute, hay absolute, and most noticeably tonka bean absolute), and I feel like the coumarin content in this scent is just WAY too high. Everything is drowned out by that sugary sweetness. It's interesting to note that the nose behind this scent, Christian Rostaine, also did Xerjoff's Elle, which I also find WAY too sugary sweet (in the same way some of the By Kilians have that toothachey sweetness to them.)

    The sweetness has hints of cherry, almond, and a bit of powder. Yup, that's definitely a coumarin overdose! It smells almost like I put pure tonka bean absolute on my arm (and anyone who has smelled pure tonka bean absolute knows how overpowering and overbearing it is!). Ugh!

    Given that everything is swamped in an unrelenting sweetness, I can't stand this scent. I don't find it very masculine at all, either. Yes, the sweetness does subside a bit and I do smell traces of the other notes listed, but not nearly enough to redeem the scent. One of my least favorite and also one of the worst Xerjoffs, imo. 1.5/5 stars.
    Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 28th May 2010 at 05:45 AM.
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  41. #221

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Dhofar

    An excellent opening of galbanum, a hint of lavender, and a healthy dose of pine needles. This quickly fades as a smooth carnation (not buttery, more soft and clovey) takes center stage. The pine needles and earthy galbanum underscore the clovey carnation and the whole thing smells very soft, smooth, and traditional. This persists for quite some time. Slowly, a smooth and leathery labdanum (smells more like the absolute than oil) note fills out the accord. Clean, soft, and lightly spicy. A weird association I am getting while sniffing this is one of the blue Old Spice deodorant sticks.. but I mean this in a good way.

    As others have noted, this smells very traditional. Something you may have smelled on your father or greatgrandfather, even. A great opening, a good if not particularly innovative heart, followed by a similar drydown. The longevity was good on my skin - over 8 hours.

    While I don't feel this is at all 'me', and I don't feel inclined to own it, I do think it's a solid 4 star scent.
    4 stars....Ill take it..its my fav from this line...
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  42. #222

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    It's quite interesting to read how others smell the Xerjoff scents... I liked many more of them than I didn't like... and felt that they do have a certain traditional quality to them which I believe was the house's intent. I think the thing that knocked me out about them is how "natural" as in unsynthetic most of the scents "feel"... so it's surprising to hear some descriptions mention synthetic notes. Really is. (I've "had my nose buried in natural essential oils" and not much else for many years, so some of the synthetics may smell "JUST LIKE" the naturals...)

    ANyway... nice to get different perspectives!
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  43. #223

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I should add that I feel that a 2 star rating is often times better than a 3 star rating, at least as far as it goes when I'm rating a scent.

    Wait, what? What I mean by this is that a 2 star scent is often more interesting than a 3 star scent, but it's just that it doesn't particularly mesh with me or may even rub me the wrong way. 3 star scents are usually the safe and inoffensive, while 2 star scents are usually scents that are courageous or bold, but which I just happen to dislike. 1 star scents are, however, scents I consider to be subjectively and (most often) objectively bad, or which contain a synthetic chemical in such a proportion which I simply cannot deal with.

    So, while I really don't like Homme or Tobacco Oroville, that's not to say that I don't think others should try them. They are, if nothing else, quite unique!
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  44. #224

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Here are some reviews people have been doing on some blogs I thought I would share.

    http://perfumenerd.blogspot.com/2010...off-oesel.html

    http://perfumenw.blogspot.com/2010/0...-perfumes.html

    These reviews below are from a site that was translated into English.

    http://translate.googleusercontent.c...LbmgaA1hB-wqGw

  45. #225

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Hey everyone overseas. Xerjoff's new E-boutique is now available to order from.

    http://www.xerjoff.com/eboutique/

  46. #226

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I will weigh in with a review of Homme since I'm so impressed with Xerjoff. First of all the ingredients of the scents are truly great and if anyone had problems warranting niche prices this will NOT let you down. The scent begins with a deep luxurious leather and wood mix that can only remind one of the most sophisticated formal events. It is simply wonderful and begs to be used with suits at a night setting. As time moves on the leather starts to subsife leaving a dark/murky woodsy basenote. I enjoy all the facets of this scent, it is suave, sensual and truly eloquent. Top marks...
    "What actions are most excellent? To gladden the heart of human beings, to feed the hungry, to help the afflicted, to lighten the sorrow of the sorrowful, and to remove the sufferings of the injured" Prophet Muhammad (pbuh)

  47. #227

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Here is another great review of tobacco Oroville and Oesel by review site cafleurebon

    http://www.cafleurebon.com/xerjoff-o...ch-for-a-star/

  48. #228

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Just a couple of cool Casamorati shots by JRD4T!



    Last edited by cairomerta; 22nd June 2010 at 10:47 PM.

  49. #229

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I got a sample pack and ran through them quickly to determine what I want to further invest my time in. Overall, they all are fairly light and thin.

    Most of the shooting star line isn't interesting. The standouts were Nio which is a really refreshing scent opening with a blast of orange zest, vetiver & rose pepper. Same vetiver note used in Original Vetiver by Creed. One of those scents anybody would love to wear in the summer, spray on and go ahhhhhhhh.

    Uden is also very interesting. It has this resinous sweetness with guaiac wood, rum, coffee and vanilla but it isn't thick or heavy. It still stays fairly light, transparent almost.

    I don't think I'd buy the two above but I recommend them if you're interested in exploring the house.

    I also tried Oesel, Oroville, Modoc, Dhofar, Kobe and thought they were all unmemorable. Very light, fairly thin, nothing interesting.

    Mefisto is a Silver Mountain Water copycat but without the harsh metallic weird note. Smoother, more elegant. Though, not worth investing.

    I also tried Fiero, didn't like it, some herbs, wasn't exciting.

    Everything in the ultra pricey XJ line is a less interesting Serge Lutens copycat. XXY is a sweet plummy scent similar to Daim Blond/CDG 2 without the ink note or the interesting parts. Again, smoothed out.

    IriSss is Iris Silver Mist without the earthy dirt aspect, smoother, trying to make it elegent but I think it's less interesting.

    Homme is Cuir Mauresque without the richness. It's as light as Nostalgia without the woodnotes. Again, it's smoother than the SL but less interesting to my nose.
    Last edited by nsamadi; 21st October 2010 at 03:43 AM.

  50. #230

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    So...

    I received a sample of XJ Homme gratis with my latest order from LuckyScent. At $10 for a sample vial I probably wouldn't have considered purchasing it, but I'm excited, right? I pop the vial, swipe my arm & Holy Mary Mother-of-God all I smell is motor oil. Seriously. Like I'm parked over that mysterious pit where men in blue shirts drain my car's bodily fluids. Or that blast of warm air when you open the hood. I can get a leathery vibe if I concentrate on believing it smells like leather, but mostly, motor oily.

    Am I alone here?

    EDIT: Ok, sorry for the histrionics. After actually bothering to read through this thread I see a few other people have mentioned the same impression. I just read the fragrance directory page before posting. Clearly, the motor-oil detecting noses are in the minority.
    Last edited by Castrensis; 9th February 2011 at 06:35 AM.

  51. #231

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by nsamadi View Post
    IriSss is Iris Silver Mist without the earthy dirt aspect, smoother, trying to make it elegent but I think it's less interesting. .
    I think the same way about Mefisto and SMW. Xerjoff attempting to make SMW more elegant with Mefisto but it turns out to be a less interesting version.
    -

  52. #232
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    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I just sampled Irisss the other day. It's a beautifully done iris but alas, runs out of gas all too quickly.

    On the whole I think Xerjoff compositions favor 'mainstream accessibility' over 'creative uniqueness' or 'avant garde edge'. They are thus unlikely to impress the seasoned noses on BN though I do believe that one can still appreciate a fragrance without the need to feel impressed by it. Unduely high expectations raised on account of the hefty price tag is probably the number one review killer.

  53. #233

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondflame View Post
    On the whole I think Xerjoff compositions favor 'mainstream accessibility' over 'creative uniqueness' or 'avant garde edge'. They are thus unlikely to impress the seasoned noses on BN though I do believe that one can still appreciate a fragrance without the need to feel impressed by it. Unduely high expectations raised on account of the hefty price tag is probably the number one review killer.
    Thanks for this very succinct insight - could we call this "The Blue Syndrome" perhaps? In that particular case it was the Chanel name that raised expectations, but same deal - a beautifully made quality piece of work that seemingly breaks absolutely no compositional boundaries at all . . . fine by me, no harm done if that's what is (partly) going on here. (I'm sure there is a little more to it, of course). I tried Dhofar and it felt like a familiar sort of 'nu-fougere' accord but lovely and I'm really keen to hear more about Richwood
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 9th February 2011 at 07:33 PM.

  54. #234

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    COUGH COUGH Xerjoff ..... ahem cough cough ..... competition prizes

  55. #235

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I wish Xerjoff hired someone like Jean Kerleo, a perfumer capable of creating some of the most complex and sublimely elegant perfume compositions. If given enough time and 'unlimited' budget, I believe he could create the ultimate gents fragrance for Xerjoff.

  56. #236

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Starting to explore today my Xerjoff sample set. The first one picked is Oroville. The weather seemed proper to start with this one, so here it goes:

    Picked it because of the promised tobacco note, in the hope of a fresh tobacco fragrance. It`s not that kind of fragrance, but i`m really liking what i see. My overall impression of Oroville is of a vintage formula adequated to materials available today. Seems like a masculine spicy fragrance which you don`t see anymore - full of contrasts. The opening is very short on my skin, a slightly fruity and urinous combination of chamomile and sage. The sage is not as urinous as the one you found in Jules, but it reminded me of Jules at the opening. Then, the scent fastly goes to what seems a very italian citrus aroma, and then suddenly on me it`s all about carnation and tobacco. The carnation is more evident, and it`s the kind of carnation that you see in masculines from the 80s, that liqueurish and dark carnation melted perfectly with the tobacco aroma. After some moments the sage seems to join the carnation and tobacco. After two hours it`s a skin scent on me, with some musk and just a trace of the bitterness from galbanum. The scent seems to project a vanilla that i cannot detect by myself, since my mom told me, when i entered at the car to go to work, that she was smelling a fruity aroma (i imagine that she was refering to the citrus flowers) and some vanilla. I get the citrus part, but the vanilla scapes from me. The overall balance is of an aromatic spicy fragrance of citrus and musky accents, that may sound intense at the beginning but is skinscent after some hours. I really liked it, but i wished it had more sillage.

    It seems that tobacco and carnation are what lingers on my skin in a very light voice. The good thing of it is that it won`t annoy anyone at work. But, considering the price, i think it could be much more stronger. I don`t complain of the quality or complexity on this one, but it whispers too much to me, i wished it talked with a more perceptible voice.

  57. #237

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Reading all the reviews of Modoc, it gives me the impression that this is one of those scents that smell very different on any person. Santal? Animalic Notes? Amber? Don`t get any of this on me. I also don`t see it as a chypre fragrance, since there is nothing here that on me gives the bitterness or the mossy tone. For me, it`s a very well done Vetiver and Iris scent. The combination is quite unusual, correct me if i`m wrong but i don`t remember any vetiver and iris fragrance. It`s interesting how the perfumer created a leathery vibe reforcing the rubberish aroma of vetiver. And it also impresses me how the three elements get along so well, it`s almost like they were friends of a long time. The rubber facets of vetiver goes and then i notice the woodier and leafy sides, wrapped in a creamy, powdery, slightly sweet musk. The powder aspect is very subdued, and seems like a insertion point for the iris. I got sometime to detect the iris here, since it doesn`t smell powdery, metallic earthy. It`s more of a iris facet which is not easily explored, the anisic side found in L'Artisan Iris Pallida.
    What this one doesn`t have on me is a dynamic evolution. It seems complex but linear. I wished that i could tie Oroville complex evolution and the sillage and longevity of this one.

    Obs: the vanilla seems to keep growing on my skin, and it`s that gorgeous creamy of iris and vanilla that i smell in my favorite xerjoff so far, with the difference that the vetiver here keeps it less powdery and sweet.

  58. #238

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    My Sorcery Of Scent x Xerjoff competition samples arrived today . Thank you both Dimi and Sergio very much Im thrilled at having the opportunity to try some of these out .

    Completely blown away by Uden and Lua

    Anyone else get sweet violet from Irissss too ? Eitherway its stunning

  59. #239

    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    I'm waiting for samples to arrive of Richwood, Damarose and the two new ones from the Casomarati line called Lira and Regio. As soon as they arrive I'll post a review up on here Nio is still my favourite bottle to date, but Fiero and Kobe also get plenty of use.

  60. #240
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    Default Re: Xerjoff Reviews Thread

    Richwood.

    This is one scent that plays different tunes on fabric and on (my) skin. On fabric, the citrus and rose combine wonderfully with the sandalwood and patchouli to give a slightly boozy yet rich almost liqueur-like aroma, somewhat like a richer 'cousin' to Sonoma Scent Studio's Vintage Rose. The quality of the Mysore sandalwood brings depth and complexity.

    Unfortunately, on my skin, the rose and citrus go missing within seconds, leaving an opening that's rather bitter, almost medicinal. It kinda reminds me of the synthetic oud note in M7. While the sandalwood stays up front, with some amber or vanilla in the base softening its edges, I'm sorely missing the lovely boozy rose-patchouli accord. For the price Richwood retails for, I'm just not convinced of the need to smell like a piece of sandalwood.

    Anyway, I'll probably give it a couple more wears in the coming week but based on first impressions, I'm more than a little disappointed.

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