Bois de Cedrat by Creed
Thread: Sample Of The Day ~ May 2010
My first sample of this month is Penhaligon's English Fern.
Bois de Cedrat by Creed
Oops, didn't remember we switched over months! Copying and pasting from last month's thread....
Oy Vey! This is a tough one to write about......
Tauer Orange Star
I really like Andy Tauer, he's a genuine, kind man. But this fragrance, his newest release, is truly putrid. No putrid isn't a strong enough word (must go to the thesaurus), nidorous (there, that's better). This is really really bad. I'm almost at a loss for words. It's not the gruesome "who-the-hell would wear this" monstrosity that is Hilde Soliani Stecca, nor is it the intentionally grotesque sperm and blood of Secretions Magnifique, no it's a whole other ball park. It's where a combination of notes, that may have worked separately, come together to smell GOD AWFUL. Honestly, I could only last 5 minutes before it needed to get washed off, and then it STAYED. I really can't describe it, I didn't give it nearly enough time, but it was some grossly synthetic clementine, mixed with something chalky, and an uber resinous amber, with no finesse at all. Truly ghastly.
Edit: And it's nuclear strength, stinking up my whole sample bag!
Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan
Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense
MTG, I've been avoiding Orange Star because of the notes. I've learned that hard way that I don't like orange with vanilla (creamsicle hell) or orange with amber (baby aspirin). Odd. But you've got to hand it to Tauer, he knows how to make a divisive scent...
Yesterday I test-wore Diptyque Olene.
To be honest, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy this Diptyque flower monster, but it slowly managed to seduce me. It kicked off with very indolic florals. At first, I thought tuberose, but it was more akin to jasmine, with that bubblegummy quality you get from jasmine absolute. Being Diptique, they couldn’t resist adding in a pinch of their signature orange and clove, which actually combined really well with the indolic flowers.
Given time, this weird but interesting mixture settled down into a much-quieter floral, a near-perfect rendition of wisteria blossoms. The Oakland library down the street from my job is dripping in wisteria vines, and I have to admit that I’ve been enjoying walking past it a bit too much for the last month or so, as the wisteria exploded into purple and white blooms, broadcasting its heady scent all over the neighborhood. Olene comes impressively close to capturing that smell (yes, I went to the library and smelled the flowers to compare…), though the real wisteria has a grapey element to it that Olene lacks.
All in all, I think Olene is a pretty awesome scent. If you like bigger florals or have a soft spot for wisteria, you should really check it out (Galamb, I’m talking to you…)
The very subtle clove mixing with the indoles in the topnotes makes it slightly less feminine than you’d expect, but Olene really is a big realistic floral scent, so don’t bother if you’re not comfortable in that type of thing.
Because I enjoyed yesterday’s Olene so much, today I decided to give a full wearing to another floral Diptyque I’d been putting off, Ofrésia.
In the spirit of full disclosure, I’d sprayed on some Ofrésia before on a shopping trip and found it more confusing than anything else. That’s because (as verified by today’s proper wearing), it’s absolutely not floral at all for the first few hours.
The top is an odd mix of indoles (but without the flowers – a rather odd occurrence) and that tomato leaf note from Hilde Solani’s infamous Stecca (which actually smells quite a bit like indoles itself). There’s some unobtrusive citrus in there, which goes a long way to keep the indole-fest from ever smelling simply gross. Later, in the heart, a lemony vetiver finds its way into focus, pairing off with the indolic tomato leaves.
And that’s Ofrésia for the first few hours: fresh vetiver mixed with upfront indolic tomato leaf.
Then, through some feat of magic, halfway through the day, the whole thing settles into a sort of green creamy flowery smell. I’m guessing that this is supposed to be the freesia that Ofrésia is named after, but I don’t know what the real thing is supposed to smell like.
As for pulling a complete magic act and totally changing from funky masculinity to creamy pretty florals, Ofrésia is pretty clever. But, honestly, you’d have to be a serious niche-fiend to really enjoy this, with the totally different top and base appealing to fans of completely divergent fragrance styles. So who would I recommend Ofrésia to? Really open-minded vetiver fans, or really green-friendly floral fans, I guess…
^^^ It's both, together, the aspirin AND orange creamsicle, bundled into fragrance hell.
Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan
Granted, we've known each other for some time. It don't take a whole day to recognize sunshine. ~ Common Sense
I've began this month testing out Penhaligon's line. Blenheim Bouquet is my latest. This one and English Fern are both full-bottle-worthy to me.
Wearing Patchoulissime by Keiko Mecheri today. I woke up craving patchouli (something that rarely happens to me) and this sample decant jumped out at me. I haven't really warmed up to any KM scents, and honestly this one is nice but I can think of a handful of more exciting patchouli scents that I'd probably reach for first. If you like White Patchouli by Tom Ford and wanted something lighter this would be a good choice. Besides that, I cannot imagine buying a full bottle of this. And that bottle! Wow...it's positively Thierry-Mugler-esque. Looks like a purple faceted hand grenade.
Today I'm testing Penhaligon's Extract of Limes. It has an effervescent quality that reminds me of Pez candy.
Other than giving Kobe from Xerjoff a workout this morning, I tried my sample of Blue Opulent Shaik Collection - No. 77 for Men from Designer Shaik.
Composition: Head: Bergamot, Lemon, Lavender, Basil, Heart: Geranium, Clove Buds, Apple, Cinnamon, Base: Cedarwood, Patchouly, Oakmoss, Labdanum (Rockrose), Vanilla, Musk. This along with no.70 for men are excellent fragrances. They're not cheap, but you can tell they use quality ingrediants. The bottles and packaging look fantastic as well, but as long as what's inside is good, they can bottle them in anything for me hehe http://www.shaik.net/ and I'm pondering about purchasing both of these.
Thanks for the reviews of Olene and Ofresia, Rogalal. As it happens, I tried both last year in Miami.
Olene, to my nose, is a white-hot, neon-lit jasmine - simple, bright, but with an intriguing mushroomy undertone that prevents it being vapid. I remember walking around South Beach at night wearing this stuff. It really went with all the neon-lit buildings a loud music coming out of the clubs. I appreciate it when a fragrance matches the mood of my surroundings.
Ofresia is more interesting but has longevity problems on my skin; it develops quite quickly on me. After twenty minutes, at least in the heat I was in, the green turned to flowers much as you described, and then - vanished! I'm sorry to say this happens with a number of Diptyques I wish lasted longer on me, including the charming Virgilio.
Today I tried Vero Profumo's Rubj again, one more time before I send it to some other floral fiend. Orange flower, jasmine, tuberose - yeah, it sounds made for me, but in the end, me and Rubj are not a match. Rubj is potent and unique, but its just too clean, soapy, and puritan for my tastes.
This isn't to say that Rubj isn't fascinating and beautiful in its own way. The citrus top notes are very dry and tart; I smell petigrain, maybe bergamot and neroli in the background, but there's a very quick upwelling of florals and white musk that creates a balance through the top.
The heart itself is somewhat less appealing. Orange flower predominates, with some jasmine and tuberose there as supporting cast, but scrubbed of all dirt and indoles, of honey and decay. These are newly washed and still slightly sudsy flowers, and though pretty and very natura-smelling, don't provide much drama or interest for me. I don't dislike this smell at all, in fact, I smell it every day - it's a LOT like the body wash I use, Nivea Happy Time Orange Flower & Bamboo Milk. If you like Rubj, you need to find some; it's certainly cheap. Only the fascinating musk note makes Rubj unique, and after about four hours, one can experience it uncluttered by the pleasant but somewhat trite floral accord.
The musk itself is a note I simply have yet to encounter. All I can say is, whatever smell your mind is thinking of when it thinks "musk", this isn't it, yet musk is the closest analogy I can arrive at for whatever creates this accord. It's warm, yet super-clean, creamy, yet see-through transparent. All in all it's the most intriguing thing about Rubj, and what makes it a positive experience rather than an ambivalent one given my disappointment over the flowers.
After six hours, Rubj fades away quietly to a whispery skin scent. Rubj is good, but I fail to fall into the raptures that nearly everyone else who has tried it have succumbed to.
Last edited by Sugandaraja; 5th May 2010 at 08:03 PM.
Craig, I have to admit I've never heard of Shaik. That website makes you wade through an awful lot of flash to get to any info, but they look interesting. Your list makes No. 77 sound like a completely traditional fougere chypre, except for that apple note. Does it smell like an 80's frag? Or more modernized and fruity?
Playing catch-up, a couple days ago I finally got around to testing Kenzo Power, largely thanks to ThGolfer's good review.
Power is definitely interesting. The top was a nice mix of ginger and lemon, with some aldehydes to make it sparkle like soda. From the couple I’ve smelled, it seems like Kenzo is good at taking aldehydes, long the symbol of feminine perfumes, and making them completely wearable by men.
Then, just to mess with gender lines a bit more, they put this sparkly soda over iris. The iris does what’s expected – it smells kind of bready and kind of like womens make-up. It’s not the unapologetic not-afraid-to-be-cheesy iris of Dior Homme – it’s more like a cleaned-up, non-powdery friendly iris that comes off just a bit spiced, like it was dusted with cinnamon or nutmeg.
Given time, the iris morphs into something that smells basically like hazelnuts.
The combination of the super-fresh ginger ale top and the iris/hazelnut heart is kind of odd, but in an interesting, wearable way.
Oh, and naturally, nothing I’ve mentioned here is listed in the notes. Of course…
Anyone else try this one? What do you smell?
Today I used up my sample of Mugler's Sunessence, and in the evening wore a sample of Azzaro Chrome Sport.
The Sunessence is a good summer version of A*Men. Fresher, not as deep, not as strong. I love the original a lot more though, I find the Sunessence to seem less edible.
The Chrome Sport got me a few compliments, but eh. It's a variation of Chrome and nothing more. Light, citrussy, aquatic, etc. Not a hard hitter but not bad either. Nothing I'd buy a bottle of.
This last Christmas, a very generous BNer sent me a ton of Neil Morris samples, which I must admit that I've been a little wary of sampling. It's certainly not the scents - sniffing the samples, there are easily 2 or 3 that are right up my alley. It's actually that I know that Neil Morris is a member here, and he has many friends here, too. What if I don't like one of the scents? Even if I don't personally care for a scent that I sample, I try not to be a bitch about it, but I'm not going to rave about something I don't like just to be polite. Thankfully, I'm just some random nobody on the internet and I doubt anything I write could really make waves, so here goes...
That being said, I figured I'd start out with one I was almost sure to like, Neil Morris Cafe.
Cafe kicked off with a flurry of lavender over a burnt caramel patchouli. The creme brulee patchouli reminded me of another member's signature scent, Above by Fred Miller. While Above pretty much stayed linear in the burnt caramel patchouli vanilla combo, Cafe progressed more. Once the lavender brightness burned off, the coffee note came through more, paired with a sort of burnt smell that simultaneously made the coffee smell "roasted" and gave that burnt caramel edge to the patchouli. For a while, it got chocolatey, and for a while it smelled like butter brickle ice cream (do they even make butter brickle ice cream any more?) eaten next to a coffee roasting plant.
That being said, it would be hard to accurately describe Cafe without referencing A*Men. While they're not the same recipe, they do share a lot of the same ingredients and are similar in feel. If there's such a genre as patchouli gourmand fougeres, they're both in it. But while I find A*Men kind of loud and brutish, Cafe manages to tell a similar story with more refinement.
In a way, I was disappointed, but only because I was expecting the focus to be on the coffee note instead of the caramelized patchouli (of which I am more of an interested observer than an actual fan). But if you like A*Men and want something nicer, or more specifically, if you like the idea of A*Men but find it too cloying and brash, Cafe could be a perfect choice.
Last edited by rogalal; 6th May 2010 at 05:08 AM.
Sampling Bond ~ Chinatown today. While I am glad I tried it, I dont think its for me.
Trying out some Diesel Fuel For Life that I was got (along with Chrome and Hanae Mori) from a Von Maur. It's sweet, which is something I don't mind too much, but there's some woodiness and an anise note that, to me, seems to clash a little bit. The raspberry is able to outdo the lesser parts of this fragrance and make it into something that I truly would wear regularly.
I do though, feel that it's marketing is gimmicky and a little over the top "hey teenagers, this gets you laid!".
Silver Mountain Water by Creed
Today, I’ve been wearing Neil Morris Hologram.
It kicked off with some really unapologetic fruit notes. Officially, they’re listed as yuzu and cassis, but it smelled to me more like some sort of combination of peach, apples, and cherries, lightly dusted with sweet spices, possibly including that specific cinnamony clovey mix that always reminds me of Christmas candles. Actually, the whole top reminded me of a candle store, not so much because of the mix of notes, but because it had that faint but distinct smell you get from high concentrations of essential oils (I don’t know what does this – maybe someone here knows?).
Given time, a little tinge of green developed behind the fruit notes, which eventually revealed itself as a nice headshop patchouli. This fruity patchouli combo made up most of Hologram, fading slowly from mostly fruit with patchouli in the background to mostly a vanilla patchouli with the lingering fruit combining cleverly to smell a bit like warm blueberry jam with a pat of butter.
In the end, I don’t think Hologram is really for me. Its high concentration of essential oils makes it a bit richer and thicker than I feel comfortable wearing when it’s such a sweet fruity scent, and I’m just not a huge patchouli fan. But these are just personal quibbles - if you’re looking for a unique fruity scent that has the girly charm of a fruity floral without the lame corporate predictability and thin watered-down cheapness, I’d definitely suggest a sniff.
I woke up in a confident mood so I gave Montale's Aoud Lime a (blind) full-wearing today:
Do any of you try and "guess" what a fragrance is going to smell like before you get around to it? I am always off the mark but it is fun to do, just the same.
Well, there's a first time for everything.
I came in expecting an interpretation of oud in keeping with the other Montale Aouds I have sampled--Black, White, Royal--but dry, green, and slightly sour. And that's exactly what I got. The oud seems more legible, less adorned here than in the others; perhaps to its detriment, as I found the drydown complex without being compelling.
Strong stuff and well-made as always but yeah, 'they are who we thought they were.' I am going to try this again in autumn and see if it moves me.
Rogalal, I'm honored something I wrote led you to sample Kenzo Power yourself. It's interesting that you also thought they treaded gender lines with Power. It is certainly an interesting fragrance, and one that I will enjoy wearing occasionally.
As has become my routine on Saturdays, when I am around the house with just myself and the kids, I sample fragrances. Today was:
Chanel Allure Homme Edition Blanche
This one has been on my test list for a while, and I'm not sure why I put it off so long. First of all I haven't been able to find a tester. The department stores around me seem to carry the full Chanel line for women, but only a couple for men. Second of all, I've tried the original Allure Homme, Allure Homme Sport, and Allure Homme Sport Cologne; and while they were all nice, none of them suited my tastes. They were all too "heavy" and "warm". Third, I have seen Edition Blanche described as Lemon Cream Pie, which is something I love to eat, but not necessarily something I want to smell like. I'm not a big fan of gourmands.
So with all of that in mind I really didn't know what to expect with Edition Blanche, even though it has been compared with, and listed on the same lists as, some of my favorites. So I tried it this morning from some samples I bought off of ebay. I had two immediate thoughts: 1) "WOW!" and 2) "This smells kind of like L'eau par Kenzo."
It does smell like lemons, and semi sweet cream, but is very nicely done. The lemons don't come off like cleaner, and the cream is in the background and not super sweet like a gourmand. The similarities to L'eau par Kenzo have remained for me throughout, but this is a little more "mature" than the Kenzo. L'eau par Kenzo is actually one of my favorites, but so far I actually think I like Edition Blanche even better. Where LpK is zesty, tart, bright, vibrant, etc. Edition Blanche is softer, smoother, refined, classy. I've always described Versace Pour Homme as a more mature take on the same theme as Acqua di Gio. I'll can now make the same correlation between Edition Blanche and LpK.
Another comparison I noticed in the heart of Edition Blanche is a slight similarity to the aromatic heart/base of 212 Men (another of my favorites) after the green/spiciness has faded.
Ultimately, it was love at first smell for me with Edition Blanche, and I am making it my scent of the day with a full application. I can also tell this one is going to be bottle worthy, and in my regular rotation. I'm always leery of making that call after only one wearing, but this one blew me away much the way Bvlgari Aqva, 212 Men, and most recently Terre d'Hermes did.
OK, ThGolfer, you're tempting me again... I'm a slobbering fan of L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme. But what I really like is the sparkly 7 Up/ginger ale in the topnotes. It sounds like Edition Blanche makes it less sparkly and bright, so it might not really appeal to me. If you like the bright refreshing topnotes of LpK, try to sniff Chanel's Cristale Eau Verte the next time you're at the mall - it's got the same appeal, but more soapy and clean in the drydown.
Friday, I continued testing Neil Morris samples with Midnight Forest.
Now this is my kind of scent...
Midnight forest manages to be a forest scent, but without using any of the usual cedar/iso e super notes. Instead, it's a confusing mix of galbanum and moss in the topnotes (I think - neither of these are notes I'm good at recognizing). Given time, it dries down to a vetiver and evergreen base. Oddly, the base is much weaker than the topnotes on my skin, so the whole thing faded considerably around lunchtime as it converted from the galbanum/moss to the vetiver.
To be honest, I really didn't know what to make of Midnight Forest. That huge volume drop was a bit off-putting, and the galbanum top was a little iffy on my skin. But I sprayed some on before bed and my sheets smelled really awesome the next morning. And then I sprayed some on paper to try to figure out more notes and it smelled really awesome on paper. Sadly, I think this a fragrance I really like that just doesn't respond well to my chemistry, so alas it's not for me. But if Neil ever decides to make a candle out of this, I'll be the first in line...
Last edited by rogalal; 9th May 2010 at 07:51 PM.
Yesterday I wore Neil Morris Izmir.
I can honestly say that I've never smelled anything like this before...
This is one of those scents that's going to be really hard to describe. Start off with that caramelized headshop patchouli (which I'm starting to think may be a Neil Morris house note) and add some rose. Then some fruit, but not enough to smell like fruit, but just enough to make the whole thing smell sweeter and fresher. Then add coffee. But not enough that it smells like a coffee scent - just enough to add a weird darkness. Really, even if you can imaging what I'm trying to describe (fruity rose patchouli with coffee?), Izmir doesn't smell like anything you're imagining....
Given a few hours, the rose, fruit, and patchouli come together into a sore of rose jam smell (the same way that the rose, fruit and patchouli in Feminite du Bois come together to smell like rose-flavored jam - though it smells absolutely nothing like FDB). The coffee note fades into the background, replaced by - wait for it..... Oud.
As if Izmir wasn't weird enough already, it ends up as sort of a jammy rose patchouli oud thing. But again, if you think you know what this will smell like from this description, you don't.
For one thing, this seems to use a tea rose, instead of the T'aif rose used in middle eastern scents, so the rose/oud combo doesn't smell like what you're used to. It's a bit more grandmotherly and less "oriental". And the caramelized patchouli sticks around, making for a really dense combination.
All in all, I don't think I'd ever buy a bottle of Izmir, but I still respect it very much. This is true niche perfumery - really interesting experimentation that probably doesn't have broad appeal, but is really intellectually stimulating. So who would I recommend it for? Really really adventurous rose fans. And people who've sampled so many hundreds of scents that they're starting to think there's nothing new out there. You might not like it, but you'll be glad it exists out there in the world...
I'm enjoying reading your Neil Morris reviews, Rogalal - Izmir sounds intriguing, though I'm a little on edge about the New Harlem references I read in reviews. Always up for a new rose.
I've been visiting a few Neil Morris samples recently myself.
Intimate Gardenia - very pleasant gardenia accord for the first few minutes, but quickly succumbs to an odd doughy quality I also smelled in his Flowers For Men: Gardenia. However, it's much more of a soliflore than the latter, and all in all much nicer, albeit not particularly interesting ( i.e. in no way a rival to beauties like PC Tuberose Gardenia and Pur Desir ). Decent lasting power for something marketed as delicate.
Midnight Tryst - is to Diptyque's Eau Lente what Brazil is to Portugal. Similar creamy, spiced opoponax but here joined by warm, faintly fruity tropical flowers and that humid warm patchouli I smell in a number of his fragrances ( Rogalal is right on the money about "caramelized headshop patchouli", which I smell in this, Dark Season, and Gandhara to varying degrees ). Jasmine isn't listed, but I smell it here. The flowers don't smell realistic, but are more of floral accord than a living blossom - big, pink, cartoon flowers. I find it a very wearable, very mellow floriental with no hard edges or bold statements. Though it shares a number of notes, Midnight Tryst and Gandhara are worlds apart, but this is a much more relaxing fragrance to wear, somehow.
Dark Season - spicy spruce completely subdued by amber-laden patchouli. Another one that maxes out the warmth and comfort. I'm kind of conflicted about it because it uses an unusual accord and makes it something pleasant and conventional smelling. Using another frag analogy, Aoud Cuir d'Arabie vs. Elsha 1770 is to leather what Polo vs. Dark Season is to evergreens and patchouli. With the notes this could have been a bold, edgy, statement fragrance, but instead it's warm and cuddly. That being said, it's well made, lasts well, and is wearable anywhere. If someone wanted a "safe" masculine from Neil Morris, I'd recommend this.
Thanks for the tip on Cristale Eau Verte. I'll seek it out.
Last edited by Tarheel Golfer; 10th May 2010 at 02:19 AM.
Yesterday, I wore Neil Morris Vapor.
This is a seriously difficult scent…
Imagine really sweet sweet sweet lemon-flavored candy mixed with a ton of baby powder. Add a pinch of florals under all that super-sweet lemon powder. Then, add some sort of really strange aldehyde that smells like something between hot sweet plastic and melting crayons.
And make it really, really strong.
Given a few hours, it stayed pretty linear, though it got a bit less shocking after those aldehydes faded a bit.
I have to admit that one of my least favorite perfume genres has to be the artful experimentation with synthetics. Sure, some of the CDG’s are fun, but scents like Malle’s Outrageous really turn me off. Vapor is firmly planted in the “what’s that strange smell” camp, to the point that I was kind of worried about what people were thinking as I wore it around town. So I’m left with the feeling that Vapor is more of an intelligent concept than a wearable perfume, like an intentionally difficult modern art piece. Somewhere out there, someone is going to love this, but I’m afraid it’s not me…
And everyone's changing their names! How confusing... Is there a story behind Sugandaraja?
Last edited by rogalal; 10th May 2010 at 07:11 PM.
Today I’m wearing Neil Morris October.
It’s a nice fruity gourmand that smells at first like one of those spiced pumpkin muffins they sell at coffee shops around Thanksgiving. Given some time, an apple note comes through, as well as a pinch of that Neil Morris caramelized patchouli. It’s an interesting, pleasant smell. The closest thing I can compare it to is cult-favorite scent Brandy. But Brandy has a boozy aspect to it while October has that patchouli, but the overall spiced fruit gourmand feeling is definitely similar.
Later in the day, a nice (and unexpected) myrrh incense base came through. I wouldn’t have thought it, but the pumpkin pie spices and apple really work well with the creamy, smooth incence.
The thing about scents that incorporate notes like this is that they have to work very hard to not smell like a cheap holiday jar candle. Thankfully, Neil pulls it off – while October certainly doesn’t smell like a traditional French-style perfume, it doesn’t smell at all cheap or like some sort of Yankee Candle reject.
If you’re a fan of Brandy, I’d suggest you give October a sniff. Or if you like the apple pie basenotes of Ambre Narguile but don’t care for the tobacco or woody elements. Or maybe even if you like Jubilation XXV and wish it was more fruity without the cedar and the iso e super.
Today I'm wearing Neil Morris Dark Earth.
Mathematically speaking, this is basically the bottom half of a chypre. It's got that Neil Morris signature patchouli, along with vetiver and some mossy galbanum. There's also a pinch of myrrh in there. So what does it smell like? Basically, a chypre base. It's dark and green and earthy, but surprisingly sweet and a bit creamy.
The only odd thing about Dark Earth is that it's not very strong on me. Because of the richness of the essential oils Neil Morris uses (I can tell by the little oil slicks they leave on my skin and paper), all of them except this one have been really strong and long-lasting with about a spray and a half. Sadly, it's only noon and Dark Earth is more like a sweet spot on my skin than a perfume at this point.
When I get home tonight, I'll re-apply with quite a bit more and see what I get then...
For now, I'd recommend Dark Earth to people who like exactly what it promises, earthy darkness.
Last edited by rogalal; 11th May 2010 at 06:56 PM.
I have been wearing my new bottle (!) of New York for the past four days so no sampling for me.
Although that has got me thinking: I probably am not as critical of scents I own full bottles of as I am of the ones I am sampling my way through. I think this needs to change.
Last edited by Emlynevermore; 12th May 2010 at 02:47 AM.
Continuing the Neil Morris-y tone of this thread, today I'm trying his Prowl.
I'm a little baffled at those who perceive this as animalic - to my nose, the only animalic thing about it is the name. If I had to class it, I'd call it a fruity-floral, with the qualification that it doesn't at all adhere to what's typical for the genre.
I've never smelled an osmanthus flower. That being said, I've smelled quite a few osmanthus fragrances, and this is, to my nose, is one of their number. That accord of sunny, tangy florals, tea, and apricots is unmistakable to my nose, and this is my favorite interpretation of it so far, having a deeper, richer accord than most. Most osmanthus frags have a thinness that turns me off them, like a high-pitched instrument with no accompaniment, but here it's heady, thick, and quite "edible" smelling. A faint incensey edge recalls the AL02, the only other fruity fragrance that's strongly appealed to me, though it's much more subdued here.
Neil tends to use similar accords in different fragrances, and I spot a guest appearance of that doughy gardenia note in the drydown, but after a few hours it's wound down to quite a quiet, creamy vanilla drydown that's rather non-sweet. The longevity is a little sub-par for my tastes, about four, five hours on my skin, but quite charming while it's present.
Yesterday, I wore Neil Morris Burnt Amber.
Burnt Amber kicked off as a really nice, rich amber scent. Buttery and rich without being too much, not too sweet or medicinal, it got it just right for me. There was some bright citrus on top, as well as a pinch of lavender for brightness, and that same “roasted” smell Neil used in Café. It wasn’t as buttery rich as Costume National Homme, but was still very much a comforting cold-weather kind of scent.
Usually, with notes like these, I assume the scent isn’t going to change much, but Burnt Amber kept changing over time, surprisingly. Given time, the orange faded, while the lavender and the “burnt” got more prominent. By the afternoon, it had dried down to vetiver! (though the notes apparently say it’s oak)
All in all, it was an interesting ride, but some of the transitions were a little awkward on my skin (buttery lavender dirt, anyone?). Strangely, if it had just stuck with the smell it had in the beginning, I probably would have respected it less, but liked it more.
If you’re looking for an interesting amber, especially one with more masculine elements, Burnt Amber is definitely worth adding to the test list.