ambergris most likely
As I continue to enjoy several CREED fragrances I own (SMW, MI, GIT, SV and Vetiver '48) I am becoming more familiar with the famous Millesime base. However, while the top and middle of SMW and Mi, for instance, are very light, fresh and somewhat sheer, I notice at around 6 hours and later, after application, they become rather thick and opaque. I can almost say they become cloying. This is particularly true of MI and SMW, but less so with GIT. SV and Vetiver are the exceptions.
What accounts for this thickness? Is it the Musk, Ambergris, both, neither? Maybe my nose is too sensitive to some of the notes in the base, but the heaviness detracts from the experience. I've tried applying less fragrance, but this doesn't seem to have any affect on the thickness of the far drydown. Typically I apply 2 or 3 partial sprays to both forearms, taking care not to depress the spray button all the way down, as the bottles dispense way too much juice.
Any insight is appreciated.
ambergris most likely
Synthetic ambergris accord, most likely ambroxan, ambrarome, or something along those lines.
It's actually my favorite part of those fragrances. A similar "ambergris" accord can also be found in Live Jazz, Rose 31 and Ultraviolet for Men (which make up some of my favorite fragrances of all time).
I love how the type of ambergris accord in all of the fragrances mentioned above, smells musky, but not dirty or chemically. It's just smooth, sexy and has this remarkable ability to create an aura rather than a cloud of sillage. Although the base of SMW, GIT and MI is thicker than the top notes, I don't find it to be cloying unless the weather is hot and humid. In that case, I'd probably wear something thinner, most likely with a citrus kick.
Last edited by L'Aventurier; 4th May 2010 at 12:27 AM.
it is actual ambergris, an ashtray size of the stuff costs 25 grand and the price is going up, that is why creed costs so much. ambergris ain't cheap.
supposedly 10 bucks a gram, per pound is 4,536 dollars, so 5 pounds is roughly 25 grand. but that is rough estimate, many times the price is more.
here it runs up to 20 per gram, so per pound can cost more than 9 grand.
Good work guys. Thanks for the info. I always wondered about the Millesime base, too. Might be why I'm more fond of the older Creeds. More distinctive overall. But don't get me wrong: the Millesimes are all quite nice. I'm a fan.
Not that all this stuff isn't expensive, but it's not like the ambergris is out scale with all this other crap we're buying... :-)
Creed is based in France, chances are it doesn't apply to them.
It would for anything they sent to the U.S. and command up to a $10k fine per violation . . .not that I think anyone was really checking. But they certainly couldn't export to Australia or any other current ambergris banning nation without risking the wrath of local officials. You'd have to reformulate each perfume for different markets which seems like a terrible hassle when synthetics are available.
since it has ambergris and it isn't pure ambergris it might get a pass I do not know.
Side note, for the closest thing to the Creed base simplified, without all the topnotes and everything, check out their new-ish Sublime Vanille. It's that rich, thick vanilla ambergris tonka combo that Creed fans go gaga for, in its purest form.
While I'm sure to be corrected, from what I understand, Creed only actually claims to use two specific natural ingredients which they include in every scent they put out (as sort of a house signature), real bergamot essential oil and real ambergris. It's easy to track down bergamot essential oil at hippie stores, so I've smelled it repeatedly. It's pleasant (and inexpensive, by the way) and not the source of the richness you mention. A little vanilla goes a long way to add richness, especially in citrusy scents like the Milessimes where it's kind of out-of-place. I've always assumed that it's the judicious use of vanilla (as well as the EDP concentration) that's responsible for some of the Creed richness.
My updated sample swap thread...