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Thread: Iris Gris?

  1. #1

    Default Iris Gris?

    Hi folks.

    This has popped up on ebay:

    "Created sixty years ago, in 1947, by one of the best French Perfumers for Jacques Fath, IRIS GRIS is considered by most as a monument of perfumery. Jacques Fath passed away in 1954 which brought a stop to Iris Gris, too expensive to manufacture. It was taken off the market never seen again, until now.

    We are relaunching this amazing scent, with quality in mind.

    In our formula, we only use the Irris Pallida and particulary its rhizomes process the "old way", as it takes no fewer than six years to process and extract the precious Orris buter.

    Unlike any other Iris products, the scent open on a harmonious accord between the Iris Pallida and the downy peach, delicately sustained by a floral bouquet of Tuberose, Lilac, Lily of teh Valley and Jasmine. Dries down to a soft layer of Cedarwood, Musk and Oakmoss."

    It would be wonderful if Iris Gris were re-released; but this seems a tad dubious to me
    (ebay release; Lily of "teh" valley etc...)


    Anyone tried?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I don't know much about it but I remember reading this article about it a few months ago:

  3. #3

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I've tried the original Iris Gris, and I honestly believe this is a close contender for most overrated fragrance of all time. I think the only thing that keeps its reputation intact in lieu of the massive volume of recent iris releases is that so few have had the opportunity to try it.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I cannot comment on the original, never having smelled it!

    Thanks for the article. I found these links, which are relevant to the company in question:

    Beauty Encounter no longer stock it; & I can't find any review.

    I think they may be after our dubloons...

  5. #5

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I own a bottle of the original Iris Gris, found boxed and sealed in a flea market, and I beg to differ: I find it extremely beautiful and very modern. If it came out tomorrow in, say, the Hermessence, it wouldn't be out of place. I had high hopes when the Parfums Panouge, who own the Jacques Fath licence, contacted me to smell my bottle. I had to cancel due to a last-minute business trip and they never contacted me again. Clearly they didn't have the formula, and it turned out they didn't own the name any more. Finally they put out a "tribute" called Irissime, which I never saw anywhere.

    The list of notes provided above doesn't correspond to the original.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I agree that it is modern smelling - very squeaky clean soap with iris to my nose, nothing at all dissonant, complex, weird, or unusual that would prevent someone from selling barrels of the stuff in the vein of Dior Homme's success. The only problem might be that the iris boom seems to be a couple years ago now; I'm not sure if the note is going out of fashion or not.

    Honestly, I had my hopes up when reading about Luca comparing it to Iris Silver Mist, but I really don't smell the relation except so far as them both being iris fragrances. That dark, rooty, spicy quality I smell in Iris Silver Mist I don't smell in Iris Gris... Iris Gris smells much more like MPG's Iris Bleu Gris to my nose ( the name itself sounds a like an homage to the former ).

    Of course, as with all fragrance commentary, it's "in my opinion" and so forth...

  7. #7

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Where did you smell it?
    What you describe is absolutely nothing like what's in my bottle. It's a little different from the batch at the Osmothèque, where the iris is stronger, but not considerably.

    Iris Gris is all about peach and iris -- the peach accord is produced by a base called Persicol, which is mostly aldehyde C14, and the peach, while more prominent in my bottle than in the Osmothèque reconstitution, is just as prominent as the iris. It's that iris-peach that's the genius idea: as Luca says, it makes iris smile.

    Indeed, it isn't rooty-carrotty like Iris Silver Mist and the comparison sprung from Tania Sanchez writing that a perfumer she knew had added Persicol to ISM to recreate a reasonable equivalent, because ISM is loaded with real orris just as Iris Gris used to be, rather than iris bases or the cheaper Biolandes iris that allowed for the recent iris craze.

    I wore Iris Gris to the French Fifis and it was quite amusing to have perfumers walk by and do a double-take. I can tell you it's a very highly admired composition in the profession.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Wore it again tonight for the first time in a while - detect nothing fruity like peach, just a strong soapy accord with a mildly rooty iris ( versus smelling powdery, lipstick-like or intensely rooty like ISM ). It's much stronger than I remembered, though; more aggressive top notes had me tasting soap while eating dinner. My sample is from the perfumed court.

    A number of fragrances turn intensely soapy on my skin, including forum favorites like Cuir d'Oranger, Nuit Noire, Royal English Leather, and Chanel's Cuir de Russie. All I know is that it's something others smell as "animalic" or "leathery" that develops into a very harsh, detergent note that pushes whatever else is in the fragrance to one side. Though Iris Gris isn't the worst offender, in fact it's not even unpleasant, but there's a good dollop of whatever it is in here. I don't think it's peach aldehyde - I'm fine with Mitsouko and co. I wish I knew what it is, as I have a feeling a number of otherwise enjoyable fragrances fail due to this quirk of skin chemistry; Iris Gris may be one.

    As a lover of iris - believe me, I was prepared to love this - but sadly I don't. I'm afraid only Iris Silver Mist has ever fully satisfied my iris cravings. ( Which is too bad, as my loved ones can't stand it and say it smells of something dead in a trunk! )

  9. #9

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Well, they've sold nine...

    Calling all BN-ers! WHO'S TRIED THIS?

    (and Sugandaraja, I've recently developed the same problem with CdR. Solved it: I switched to this body moisturizer:
    I am operating within established parameters. How are you?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Well we know that this "reformulation" is going to be dreck.
    Let's hope some informed feedback appears once they have sold more than ten.
    Shame people should be shelling out for this, though. It is wrong to be using the name.

    Sugandaraja - personal taste & quirks of chemistry aside - do you think you might have a duff batch?

    Carmencanada - that is really interesting. I wonder who, if anyone, owns the name now? and, if no one does, can anyone use it?

    I wonder if there is any technical (or legal) reason why Iris Gris might not be reproduced?

    Anyone know what else is going on note wise besides the main event?

    The union of peach & iris sounds like heaven to me. I have always longed to try this.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rosamundi View Post
    Sugandaraja - personal taste & quirks of chemistry aside - do you think you might have a duff batch?
    I don't think they've scammed me, in the sense of replacing Iris Gris with a cheaper, modern fragrance. I've smelled some highly regarded vintage fragrances ( recently, some vintage Joy extrait ) with this same "problem" note. That being said, it may be that time has eroded the top and heart of the fragrance, removing the fruitiness others experience in Iris Gris.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    @Sugandaraja: I don't think TPC ripped you off. I remember when Diane nabbed the bottle on eBay: I was watching it and met her in Paris soon afterwards. But I don't think it's a matter of the top notes going off either, as Iris Gris tends to get fruitier when it ages, with jammy notes from oxydization. So I do think it's a quirk of your skin's. I guess it's better that way. Imagine if you'd fallen hopelessly in love with it! I *am* wearing mine, since it's no good just sitting in the refrigerator, but it's usually to impress perfumers!

    @rosamundi: According to Octavian Coifan, the name has been owned by Hermès since the 60s. The technical reasons for not re-doing it, apart from the fact that certain processes are not the same anymore, is that it would be dauntingly expensive. To give you an idea, if Iris Silver Mist were sold at its true cost it would be worth 1000 euros.

    Apart from that, perfumers wouldn't redo it: anyway, no one who could have access to the required budgets. Big labs rip off other products all the time, but an author perfumer would consider him or herself dishonored by copying the formula.

    As for the notes, I'm not getting much apart from peach, iris, a little cedar and a musk base. Possibly jasmine and rose but in no significant amount.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Carmencanada- thank you for the info. That bottle found it's way into the right hands!

    The simplicity of it is genius.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Quote Originally Posted by carmencanada View Post
    Imagine if you'd fallen hopelessly in love with it!
    True enough. Honestly, I never feel too heartbroken when I fail to adore something that sells at stratospheric prices, and I'm always a little afraid of finding THE ultimate fragrance in some completely unattainable form.

    Quote Originally Posted by carmencanada View Post
    To give you an idea, if Iris Silver Mist were sold at its true cost it would be worth 1000 euros.
    Egads! I'm thinking I need to snap up a bottle before Serge wakes up and smells the money...

  15. #15
    nyneve's Avatar
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    Dec 2006
    Riviera dei Fiori near Sanremo and Alassio

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I smelled IG @ Osmothèque

    wonderful, amazing, marvelous, tender, beautiful but discontinued
    Now we can buy a sample on ebay for 15$ (gasp!) from a seller and producer in AZ, Legendary Fragrances
    Does anyone try it?
    A, quales ego mane rosas procedere vidi!
    Nascebantur adhuc neque erat par omnibus aetas.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    Egads! I'm thinking I need to snap up a bottle before Serge wakes up and smells the money...
    Second that!!

    Anybody we know going to Paris soon?

    I am operating within established parameters. How are you?

  17. #17

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    There is an article & some discussion about this over on Perfume Posse, if anyone is interested:

    Apparently the company have trademarked the name.

    Have to say I don't think using the name is right...

  18. #18

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    I own about 1.5ml of vintage Iris Gris by Fath in its original little bottle, and I tried the more recent Iris Gris by Legendary Fragrances. Luckily for me, the smell of the original Iris Gris has infused the scent of the plastic dropper which is set inside the mouth of the bottle, and so whenever I wish to smell its distinctive scent, I don't need to waste precious drops on the skin - I just unscrew the cap and sniff the plastic dropper!

    The original Iris Gris is ice-cold, tart, sweet peach/fruit notes upon a base of orris butter. It is not rooty or carroty because of the Persicol/fruit notes which tend to dominate. The iris is not obvious as we understand it today as a note. The orris butter primarily contributes a profound icy-coolness to the perfume, but the dominant and obvious note is that of tart, sweet fruit.

    The newer Iris Gris by Legendary Perfumes smells very typically iris-y. It has only a slight, initial hint of the sweet, tart peach which was the hallmark of original Iris Gris. It is very heavy on the iris, whereas in the vintage, the iris does not hit you over the head because it's drizzled in sweet peach. If the maker added more Persicol, perhaps the recreation would smell more similar to original Iris Gris by Fath.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    This thread is resurrected just when I was going to look for an Iris gris thread. The reason being that I was finally able to smell the osmotheque reconstruction. Only on the mouilette, not on skin, so it is hard to say how it would have performed.

    What I smelled is an extremely intense, rooty, powdery iris with a beautiful peach skin note. It is still primarily a deep iris, cold, elegant, but complemented by the fruity note, which is fruity but not sweet. Unlike sugandaraja, I do find it really striking and its fame well deserved. And I agree with carmen that the osmotheque version is very irisy, and with tourmaline that it is icy cold. Unlike the version of Iris Silver Mist I have (a recent one) it is not carroty, and has no bread note. Just cold, intense, powdery iris. Iris bleu gris doesn't come close in my opinion - really, it is a matter of how the perfume feels rather than the notes themselves.

    Despite the recent iris wave, there is simply nothing that comes close (I happened to smell today Irisss by Xerjoff, and despite the intensity, that also does not come close, too carroty). Presumably, as others have said, the only reason nobody is doing anything similar is cost.


  20. #20

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    What about Iris Gris by Legendary Fragrance?

    for swap/sale:

  21. #21

    Default Re: Iris Gris?

    Never smelled it (or anything else by the brand), but other supposed "reconstructions" of past masterpieces did not resemble them much, so I harbor no hopes. In general, I think replicating past masterpieces is not easily done by small brands even when well intentioned, these things contained hundreds, if not thousands of ingredients, including animalic ingredients now nearly impossible to find.


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