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  1. #1

    Default Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    I thought I'd start a new thread on this one, now that it's had a few years to percolate through the community and more people have had a chance to try it.

    My large decant arrived today - I'd only tried it in wax sample before - and I'm quite happy with what I've received, as it matched the wax sample almost exactly, with a touch of added complexity.

    First observation: this is the purplest thing I have ever seen, anywhere. The pictures don't prepare one. This is truly an unnatural, dye-laboratory experiment purple. But, since it doesn't stain my skin, that's kind of cool.

    The top notes of this are quite interesting to me. A number of folks compare them to Tubereuse Criminelle, but where in Tubereuse Criminelle I smell an almost straight-up blast of wintergreen, here my nose is saying indole plus some other note I can't name. It's an intriguing frosty handshake between two aromachemicals I perceive as cool and crisp-smelling.

    The jasmine itself is lovely, rich and natural, but with the indoles at a true-to-nature level and the fruity side of jasmine toned down. Jasmine here is both the star but also a modest one, not a floral-bomb, probably helped by the fact that, unlike many other jasmines, orange flower and tuberose didn't spike the punch with their headiness. If Fracas was a person, it would have absolutely nothing to say to Sarrasins.

    Though this isn't the spectacularly LOUD indolic jasmine of A La Nuit, there is definitely a dirty side. Though it's subtle, I'd say civet, as it has a certain hot, creamily fecal quality unique to civet that I don't detect in jasmine flowers. Here the civet note is burred under the floral cool of the jasmine accord.

    If I had any wish about this fragrance, it would be that it had more sillage. The longevity is good, but as soon as its past its head notes its on the quiet side. Other than that, I love it. It, like Chanel's Beige, is one of those few quiet florals that manage to catch my attention, and if I had to name a jasmine-haters jasmine, this would be it. Don't get me wrong; this does smell like jasmine, even more so than A La Nuit to my nose, as I find A La Nuit's indoles to be exaggerated, but those who fear the floral-explosion effect jasmine brings can wear this with confidence and quiet silage.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    I think the critics are too dismissive towards it - they all think A La Nuit is better but I think Sarrasins iis superior. A La Nuit is loud and pure with no subtleties, whereas Sarrasins is a multi facet gem.

    Sillage is pretty good according to my experience... when I visited the Royal Palais last summer I had put a tiny dab on my sister's wrist and as she walked about 6 to 8 feet in front of me and my family we could all smell it.
    Last edited by malabah; 26th May 2010 at 11:12 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Ahhhh Suga!!! You just HAD to mention Sarrasins It's literally one of the very few fragrances that takes my breath away every time I smell it. Whenever I do smell it, I think to myself, how the hell did they create this beauty?! I purchased a bell jar from Paris last April and am seriously considering purchasing a backup even though my bell jar is still very full.
    To me Sarrasins starts out very cold and airy, as opposed to the icicles of Tubereuse Criminelle. It is very green, and smells quite different from its deep purple color. It is also the most natural jasmine I have ever smelt. As the topnotes burn off, I can smell a musk (same one used in MKK and BdM), that gives it, as you say, a creamy civet note. I don't find Sarrasins indolic at all; just faintly animalic. After about twenty minutes, I swear I get a moist, inky note that amazes me because obviously of Sarrasins' color. It then transforms from a cool, green jasmine, to a moist, humid with subtle animalic hints of suede, ink and call me crazy here, but also...beeswax. I swear I smell the same beeswax in many of Lutens other creations, towards the drydown.
    I don't have any problem with sillage at all actually. It radiates off my skin like nobody's business! But I do apply with a heavy hand mind you. I would even go as far as say, it's probably my favorite Lutens and definitely one of my favorite florals.
    Thanks for creating this thread! Sarrasins deserves more R-E-S-P-E-C-T!!!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    As a jasmine (and A La Nuit) fan I came to Sarassins with very high expectations. I found it a bit too introspective for my tastes. I think you hit the nail on the head Suga - the 'creamy' facet of it, is something that I do not like. The dry down is a bit too warm for me. Whereas, A La Nuit is all shiny and happy for the entire dry down.

    And yes, gotta love that purple juice. It's positively alien in color.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 26th May 2010 at 01:53 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    If Fracas was a person, it would have absolutely nothing to say to Sarrasins.
    Love that!

    Most jasmine soliflores bring to mind a sucked on grape Jolly Rancher that's been spit out on the floor of a florist shop. I need to revisit revisit Sarrasins now.
    I am loving Jasmin et Cigarette.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    If Fracas was a person, it would have absolutely nothing to say to Sarrasins.
    I love this sentence Suga !

    You guys are killing me with this - Suga and Scent. A great review . The purple juice sounds funky cool . Don't you wish Sergie would do a limited release of this for export??
    Kevin- Jasmin et Cigarette is very lovely. I didn't get much cigarette ash.......
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 26th May 2010 at 04:58 PM.
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mimi Gardenia View Post
    You guys are killing me with this - Suga and Scent.
    Isn't it great when the boys discuss florals?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    This is one of the ones I recently contacted SL about , it sounds fascinating and Im definatly going to have to give it a try this year

  9. #9

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    The right thread on the right time for me. I was thinkung the other day that I tend to crave for Sarassins almost everyday this spring which is something that very rarely happens to me. A true masterpiece with definite analogies to the charismatic Tubereuse Criminelle. They both manage to take a very heady floral note and transform it to an etherial, ironical, cold and almost masculine scent. The opening note Suagandaraja cannot name I call it simply "gas fumes". This is the closest thing to this note IMO. The purple color doesn't stain skin but it does stain clothes so be careful with that. And it is one fragrance that I believe should never be sprayed on. Only dabbing preserves its etherial qualities. As I have written in my review, other fragrances make you think that someone liquefied a flower and put it in a bottle. With these two (TC and S) you are certain that someone liquefied the air of a garden.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Sarassins is sounding more and more compelling and yeah, Kevin- it's great when guys discusss florals- I love it !
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Wearing some on my wrist now.

    I did what cpk suggested above, and dabbed it on, rather than sprayed it from the mini glass atomizer I have.

    Wow...I forgot how STRONG this scent is when it goes on. A tiny dab and I almost feel like I can taste the jasmine on my left hand. Quite beastly. It sort of has a whiff of apricot, in it, am I the only one who smells that? A bit like Daim Blond but not suede like.? And yes, that gas vapor accord - it's there. I totally missed that last time I smelled this. But there it is, as clear as day.

    Every time I see the purple vial full of ultraviolet purple juice I think of the evil queen from Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs. Seriously.


  12. #12

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    I also get a bit of that fruity apricot Mike.
    Last edited by scent; 27th May 2010 at 10:35 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Mike, the iconic purple clad lady that you posted an image of is Malefiscent from Sleeping Beauty. Snow white had the ugly old witch.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 27th May 2010 at 08:31 PM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post

    Love that!

    Most jasmine soliflores bring to mind a sucked on grape Jolly Rancher that's been spit out on the floor of a florist shop. I need to revisit revisit Sarrasins now.
    I am loving Jasmin et Cigarette.
    Mimi and Kevin, I love ELdO's Jasmin et Cigarette. I do get a HUGE ashtray accord...not unburnt tobacco or vanilla pipe tobacco, but ASHTRAY... LOL!

    Mike, I see purple bottle and juice and I think Poison...
    Last edited by Primrose; 27th May 2010 at 06:14 PM.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    The ugly old witch was the purple witch in disguise... So you're both right, sort of.
    Last edited by tott; 27th May 2010 at 06:15 PM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    I wore this again before bed last night - lovely! Like falling asleep on a bed of flowers.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    It sort of has a whiff of apricot, in it, am I the only one who smells that? A bit like Daim Blond but not suede like.?
    It's weird, I didn't smell this before, but after I read this, I did. I'd agree with your a "a bit like Daim Blond", but my qualification would be "but not shampoo-like". To my nose, there's something very much like a fruity shampoo in Daim Blond, where as in Sarrasins it reminds me more of dried apricots.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Every time I see the purple vial full of ultraviolet purple juice I think of the evil queen from Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs. Seriously.
    Sarrasins makes me think I'd do very poorly by the standards of the people behind The Horror Movie Survival Guide. I'm given a mysterious purple potion from a guy who has skulls on his living-room table, and my first instinct is to spray it on my myself.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by tott View Post
    The ugly old witch was the purple witch in disguise... So you're both right, sort of.
    1426capture_sleepingbeauty12.jpgmk_evilqueen.jpg
    Oh my god, Disney recycled Snow White's evil queen for Sleeping Beauty's Maleficent! I stand corrected, thanks Tott!
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    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 27th May 2010 at 08:40 PM.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    If you took the apricot out of this, and a bit of the creamy, osmanthus-like sweetness it would easily pass for Olene by Diptyque.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Serge Lutens - Sarrasins: How are we all feeling about this one?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    If you took the apricot out of this, and a bit of the creamy, osmanthus-like sweetness it would easily pass for Olene by Diptyque.
    Mmmm. I think I need some Olene now, too. I don't know what's with me... I've become a complete jasmine addict lately. Dare I say it, almost as much as I'm in to tuberose.

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