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  1. #1

    Default Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Since these two fragrances are not yet in the directory I thought it might be worth including them here:
    Last night I tested Humiecki & Graef's "Geste" and "Askew" on my left and right wrist.
    Well, let me start off by saying that I have high appreciation for anything creative and not mainstream. There is so much crap I smell every day on my commute etc. or that I am offered samples of in shops, so anything outside these borders is always welcome

    GESTE - is according to H&G "the young beau in love with a mature woman" (notes: soft amber, musky soft violet, soft petal, soft fir resin). I very much liked how this went off and I instantly thought I get the picture of this. It did not take me too long to find myself drowning in a sweet offensive violet smell... only violets on my skin! Well, this is not how I would imagine a young beau and his mature woman making love. H&G also state that they kind of skip the distinctive perfume's heart, but rather have the different notes re-appear all the time. All I say is syntheticly sharp violets all over. The base eventually offered a bit of, I guess, "soft musk and soft fir resin" with your violets, which was "just nice" altogether.

    ASKEW - I somewhere read it was about "anger". Anyway, on the H&G website it says this frag was inspired by "the demolition of the classical men's fragrance", which I find per se a much more interesting concept since I have difficulties with utterly manly frags, anyway. From the "official" notes I possibly get a combination of something like "birch tar", "vetiver" and "grapefruit" - an aggressive smoky cloud with something citrusy. The only thing I can see is that the aggressiveness of this frag is weakened while drying down. Not what I would like to smell like. I would have liked to see a real "demolition" of all the manly stereotypes in this frag

    While I appreciate concepts like these, I find these fragrances not really "wearable with enjoyment" and both had a strange artificial "sharpness" they shared. Interesting experience, but left me "cold", which is the right word I think...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Today I wore Le Labo Bergamote 22.



    For the longest time, I couldn't quite wrap my head around this. I guess I wanted to smell bergamot and when I didn't, I got confused. This morning, it felt crystal clear - it's vetiver. The astringent, bright vetiver of Guerlain's or Malle's. It's paired with a sweet citrus mix, which probably includes bergamot, but seems primarily like a sweet, slightly artificial citrus fruit punch.

    A while back, I went to a local essential oil store to sniff the oils and I was struck that a few of the more obscure resins (like styrax) actually mostly smelled sweet and fruity, not like the woody ambery resins I expected. This kind of sweet fruity resin smell makes up the base of Bergamote 22, giving a sense of follow-through from the sweet citrus in the topnotes.

    Almost no one ever mentions Bergamote 22 here (unless it's to complain about the lack of bergamot - which is true), but I'd suggest it as a good scent to sample if you're into citrusy vetivers.
    Last edited by rogalal; 3rd June 2010 at 05:31 AM.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Yesterday, thanks to Mtgprox's thread, I wore L'Artisan Parfumeur Verte Violette.



    It kicked off, unsurprisingly, with violets - lively, wet, purple-smelling, and almost aldehydic in their brightness. Within a few minutes, the bright violets let up their stranglehold and let the rest of the scent come through, which was basically the smell of L'Artisan's Mimosa Pour Moi. I like the smell of Mimosa Pour Moi - I had the candle and used it up way too fast. I was never able to quite figure it out. It's a heady floral sort of reminiscent of orange blossom, but different. Somehow, it feels more "yellow." Paired with the violets in Verte Violette, it was quite nice. The mimosa added the heady, long-lasting, slightly-indolic floral needed to keep the violet from getting shreiky.

    Verte Violette was definitely really nice on me, but just a touch too feminine for me to really feel comfortable. For the Galambs out there, this may be a great one to sample, but most of the guys here will probably find it a bit much. And for the green fans intrigued by the "verte" in the name, this is probably not what you're looking for at all. But if you like a good "nichey" floral, this is definitely that.
    Last edited by rogalal; 3rd June 2010 at 05:45 AM.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Today I'm wearing Bond No. 9 High Line.



    To give credit where credit is due, pretty much no one does inoffensive fruity florals better than Bond. But that's kind of faint praise, because being really good at the lowest common denominator, while it certainly takes talent, doesn't necessarily ammount to high marks for artistry or forward-thinking.

    Despite its haughty list of notes (based on the native grasses and flowers grown on the actual High Line park in NY), High Line basically smells mostly like that wet, green lily note. This note is usually paired with cucumber or melon in niche fruity florals (Delrae has one, as does Amouage, but there are many). However, Bond gets a bit creative and pairs it with apple, leading to a sort of juicy green apple candy smell, which is made less "candy" and more "perfumey" by the addition of some subtle powdery aldehydes.

    The heart got more floral, with the lily sticking around to mesh with something sort of rosey, while the powdery aldehydes kept things kind of soapy. The base is mostly a sweet, fruity soap smell that's pretty subtle on my skin.

    So there you go. I think High Line might work better on a woman (usually, I find these green lily scents pretty wearable, but the powdery quality makes it feel more feminine than its counterparts). If you like the idea of juicy, soapy, perfumey green apple leading to happy perfumey flowers, by all means give it a try.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Where'd everybody go?!?

    Today I'm wearing Comme Des Garçons Red: Sequoia.



    On me, Sequoia has been pretty much a decent cedar note (not the hamster kind, but the giant forest kind, thank goodness) paired with clove. By the base, it was pretty weak, but I could smell some creamy iso e super. While the notes promise everything from karo karaounde to oud to rum, whatever else was there all just kind of played into the cedar/clove mix.

    At this point, my cedar/clove needs are being met by Jo Malone's Pomegranate Noir (which is essentially this with red berries and incense added), so I don't really have any need for a full bottle, but for fans of woody scents, I'd still suggest Sequoia as a fun sample (though I'd recommend any of the Incense series over it).
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  6. #6

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    While I appreciate concepts like these, I find these fragrances not really "wearable with enjoyment" and both had a strange artificial "sharpness" they shared. Interesting experience, but left me "cold", which is the right word I think...
    These are love/Hate scents. They work for me...Geste is one of the only fragrances that drives my girlfriend crazy. Im glad you tested them...everyone should give them a whiff.
    Im the be$t @ thi$

  7. #7

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Just applied some Creed Windsor from a sample vial.
    Am loving it. Along with some Lime & Pine I can get some balsam note. I cannot pin point if it's due to Eucalyptus as most other people reviewing this have identified. It's just been about 5 minutes and the Rose in this is worth dying for.Sadly the rose just goes backstage after a brief appearance. I wish I wish this was Windsor's drydown and not a top note.

    More later.

  8. #8

    Exclamation Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    So...I have been away from this thread for a bit. Here's why:

    I started using a Neti pot with saline solution two weeks ago and it has been fantastic. My nasal breaths are fuller and satisfying in a way they have not been in some time.

    The only downside is that it has wreaked havoc with my perception of scents. Things I already own smell slightly different (better, for the most part) but the scents I have been sampling do not smell--to my nose--at like they are supposed to, according to reviews elsewhere. I seem to key in on some aspects of the fragrances while missing out on the other parts. For example, Nicolaï's Sacrebleu smelled of anise, high-class cotton candy, and the PdN tonka base; no florals, no fruits. Still loved it but this sort of thing has been happening across the board.

    My nose needed some retraining post-Neti and I recognize this is going to be a process. I decided to go big, a la Tiger Woods firing Butch Harmon and revamping his swing, and last week purchased The Perfumer's Apprentice Perfumery Notes Kit, which I had considered doing for some time anyway. Going in, I was explicitly interested in only about 25 of the 40 things included but, as it happens, the other 15 are proving pleasant surprises. Like dihydromyrcenol, which partly accounts for the bothersome soapiness of the openings of Drakkar Noir and current Ungaro III, though it is employed quite well in Azzaro pour Homme.

    I have only tried about a half-dozen of the 4 mL vials but this is already looking like a good investment. The language of fragrance is the hardest part, and being able to give names to aspects of a scent that were previously nameless is incredibly gratifying. Recommended.

    Finally, chance has allowed me to spend the day tomorrow in Manhattan, free of any real obligations. I am going to hit up Aedes and some combination of Saks, Bergdorf, and Barney's. I might make it down to the Fragrance District, too. Especially excited to experience the old Guerlains and Aedes itself.

    Anyone want to come with? I must warn that my fragrance-related activities will be slightly limited by the block of the day I must devote to the Museum of Natural History because...well, they have dinosaurs.
    Last edited by Emlynevermore; 9th June 2010 at 02:40 PM. Reason: I cain't spell good

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Hey Emly, consider me extremely jealous of that notes kit. I've been planning on purchasing one myself after I get back from my big vacation in a month or so. As you wear the ingredients, I'd certainly appreciate hearing your thoughts.

    Sorry it’s been so long since I’ve posted, but things have been busy lately.

    For the past few days, I’ve been working my way through samples of the entire Eau d’Italie line. Today I’m wearing Sienne L'Hiver.



    First off, I should admit that I’m a big fan of Bertrand Duchaufour. That being said, he went through an “experimental” phase around 2005 (the Dzonkha/Timbuktu time) where he was making some of the most artistically expressive and least wearable scents in the world of niche. Many of the Eau d’Italies seem to follow that mode.

    Sienne L'Hiver is kind of tame compared to some of the others, but it still feels a bit more like a CDG Odeur than Christmastime smells wafting on the breezes of Sienna. It kicked off with artificial watermelon, like a watermelon Jolly Rancher candy, paired with some sort of hot plastic smell. It had a sort of floral feel in the background, but it was mostly the smell of an overheating machine being operated by someone eating a watermelon-flavored candy. This could have been magnolia (I’m not familiar with the smell of the actual blossoms, but their perfume counterpart often smells like melting plastic on me).

    Given time, a peppery, spicy, leathery smell came in and pushed the plastic watermelon candy out of the way, leaving a sort of hot peppered wood smell, quite possibly made kind of smoky with a shot of iso e super. I don’t get the olive smell some reviewers smell – though there’s a sort of vinegar-tinged leathery saltiness that could pass for olives, maybe. A little bit of the melon lives on as sort of a green lily note, slightly freshening the peppery leathery wood. To be honest, this stage is really quite nice, but that overheating machine/candy mix in the topnotes is pretty unforgivable, no matter how pleasant the base. And if you like the idea of vinegar-tinged woodsy incense, Eau d'Italie's own Bois d'Ombrie does this better.

    I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, one of my least favorite genres of perfume is the “artful synthetic,” which seems to be an excuse to sell really expensive scents that simply don’t smell pleasant in the name of art.

    That being said, if you have a good relationship with magnolia as a note, Sienne might well be a winner for you. Side note: Eau d’Italie actually has an official magnolia scent that I’ll be trying tomorrow. Odd…
    Last edited by rogalal; 9th June 2010 at 11:50 PM.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Yesterday, I wore Baume au Doge.

    I really didn’t like this one.

    It was a really strange mix of fennel and woods, but with a strange musky milky quality that really creeped me out. Maybe it was a secret pinch of civet paired with some sort of cream note, but it just felt like it was “wrong”. Have you ever seen that Simpsons Halloween episode where Bart and Lisa are spoofing Harry Potter and Bart, having not properly learned his magic, creates some sort of hideous monster that simply shouldn’t exist, which lives in constant pain and does nothing but barf and scream “kill me”? Baume au Doge is like that monster – it simply shouldn’t exist and its disturbing fennel booze milk odor is more like a cry for help than a perfume I’d want to smell like (the closest comparison I can come up with is Secretions Magnifique's bloody milk accord, which smells almost pleasant until you try to walk around in a cloud of it and its inherent grossness slowly washes over you like a rising tide of nausea).

    Given time, Baume got more woody, and some of the mysterious green note made itself known as absynthe. But that fennel/milk mix persisted and quite simply didn’t smell good. Eventually, feeling sorry for my co-workers, I gave it a decent scrubbing, which only served to make it smell sweeter and a bit woodier. Maybe the secret is to apply sparingly…

    Anyway, I really don’t want to ever wear this again, but it’s probably safe to say that whatever olfactory warning button this pushed is probably something personal to me. It’s entirely possible other people will be enchanted by the mix of fennel, absinthe, and woodsy incense and not get any of the disturbing milky weirdness that I found so foul…

    Good luck.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Monday, I wore the self-named Eau d’Italie.

    In the heart of all this weirdness, the actual signature scent of the hotel that this line is for is actually a pretty pleasant, bland aquatic. The notes speak of bergamot and mosses, but it’s pretty much just melon and calone, overlaid with a nice garrigue mix of herbs and grasses. Honestly, it reminded me of a more calone-heavy Acqua di Gio (which isn’t a put-down – I like AdG’s mix of herbs and grasses).

    In true Duchaufour fashion, the base if a mix of woods and iso e super that plays well up against the mixed herbs.

    While Eau d’Italie is fine, and easily the most friendly scent of the line, I personally think it makes more sense as their scent for all of their candles and soaps and lotions. If you think about it, the scents of toiletries in a hotel room are rarely as groundbreaking or downright weird as the rest of Eau d’Italie’s line has been. But, that kind of makes the Eau d’Italie namesake perfume feel a little boring by comparison.

    However, if you’re looking for a fancier, niche version of AdG, this would be a great place to start.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    On Sunday, I started this whole thing out with Paestum Rose, probably the most well-respected of the Eau d’Italies and one of the oft-cited reasons for Duchaufour’s high marks as a perfumer.

    There’s an awful lot going on there.

    Sure, there’s rose, but it’s pretty much kept in the background (kind of like how it never really stands out in Le Labo’s Rose 31). Though it’s not listed, I’m pretty sure there’s a little pinch of oud in there – that oud/rose combo is pretty unmistakable. There was a pinch of cassis in the top, sort of giving the illusion of redness without being the actual roses. The most prominent note in the top was actually a mix of Italian herbs and spices, straight out of a jar of that Italian seasoning mix (I’ve never had the herbs in a perfume smell so much like the herbs in a kitchen). The odd interplay between the very foody herb mix and the oud/rose combo was a bit strange, to put it politely. Imagine cooking up a big steaming pot of spaghetti sauce while wearing a Montale, and you’re pretty close to what Paestum Rose smelled like on me, but the overall effect is even stranger than that makes it sound.

    The base got less herbal and more of an incense/wood combo. Usually, this means a standard mix of iso e super and cedar with some myrrh or something added, but that’s not what Paestum Rose has. Instead, it’s the “difficult” woody incense of Timbuktu – dusty, rotting rosewood and karo kaurunde. And to that they added a rosey, jammy patchouli.

    All in all, Paestum Rose (much like my feelings about Timbuktu) feels more like art and experimentation than a perfume I’d actually want to wear. There were a few points during the day where I became conscious that I smelled really weird to the people around me (and believe me – I’ll wear anything…)

    So, I think Paestum Rose is pretty much reserved for the serious perfumistas, the noses who enjoy a challenge and who aren’t too concerned about smelling “good” if the scent is interesting enough.
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  13. #13

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    royal english leather by Creed, I always like to put some on my hand and smell it. I never get tired of smelling it.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Today I'm continuing me festival of Eau d'Italie with Magnolia Romana.

    Hmmm... After the weirder scents in this line, Magnolia mosty stands out as being extremely "normal".

    The top was a pretty bland but nice white floral (I don't know what magnolias smell like, so I can't really give you any details), mixed with a blast of pepper. It reminded me of a men's designer scent I can't figure out, but suffice it to say that it has a familiar smell to it.

    Given time, the pepper faded, taking the masculine edge with it, and it got a bit more soapy, and a bit sweet, like a big bar of floral-scented soap sitting next to a cupcake.

    And that's it. I can't help but think that Magnolia Romana was designed more to be a soap/bubble bath kind of scent, as opposed to a proper perfume. That being said, it's perfectly nice. I can't imagine anyone hating it. But I can't really imagine anyone getting really excited over it, either.

    So, all in all, if you'd like to smell clean and flowery and not too strong, this may be perfect for you, but you could probably find something similar much more cheaply at Bath & Body Works or somewhere like that.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Where'd everybody go?

    Anyway, catching up, the last Eau d'Italie I wore was Bois d'Ombrie.

    In a way, Bois d'Ombrie is really easy to describe. Imagine CDG's famous Avignon, but with the smoky cedar bark and that forest floor dirt smell turned up and the incense toned down. Then drench the whole thing in Tuscan wine vinegar and make it all kind of leathery.

    In another way, you really can't imagine Bois d'Ombrie until you smell it. The vinegar/wood/leather/incense combination is so completely novel that you really have to smell it.

    It's a personal favorite of mine (though in hot weather the vinegar note can get overpowering - note to self: break this out when Autumn hits), but I know that's more because I'm weird. To be honest, I'd imagine that most people would be put off by the very forward vinegar note (If you've tried Diptyque's Vineger d'Toilette, Bois d'Ombrie is that vinegary, though Diptyque's is actually vinegar-based, which BdO's vinegar is just a note).

    Anyway, if you're an incense fan and love yourself some CDG Incenses and Jubilation XXV and those styles of scents, you really do owe it to yourself to check out Bois d'Ombrie. Just keep an open mind. But even if you end up hating it, it's definitely worth trying just because it's interesting.
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  16. #16

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Smelled (been smelling for ages) these gorgeuos frags. Really have to get full bottles, I just don't know when =(

    Coromandel by Chanel
    Vetiver Tonka by Hermes
    Ambre Narguile by Hermes




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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Still catching up, I've also worn Bois 1920 Agrumi Amari di Sicilia.



    I have to admit that my expectations weren't high for this one. My previous tests of Bois 1920 fell really flat, with the ones I'd tried suffering from a deadly combination of that fake-smelling citrus that reminds my of Tang and some off-putting old-school Italian basenotes that combined powdery amber and some fake citrus to smell like baby aspirin.

    But, my dread was misplaced, as Agrumi Amari actually worked pretty well on me. The top was a nice realistic tangerine, heavily sweetened. It slowly morphed into neroli, which lasted forever, finally drying down into a sort of light, nondescript citrusy wood smell. While it was sweeter than I like (I prefer my citruses tart rather than sugary), I'd still recommend it to someone looking for a good, juicy niche citrus for summer.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Today I wore Clive Christian 1872 for Women.



    Kind of nice, but kind of disappointing.

    The top was a nice fruity floral mix of citrus and rose, with some other flowers in the background (so it never smelled like one of those generic citrus rose scents), lightly dusted with some sort of refreshing aldehydes, all over a sort of creamy ambery patchouli. I was first reminded of Hubigant's Quelques Fleur Royale, with its dirty rose over musky amber, but there's a funk in the background of Quelques that hints at its old age, while 1872 (ironically) smells very modern.

    A while back I was disappointed by Balmain's Amber Gris, largely because it reminded me of a standard fruity floral amber/musk drydown. 1872 comes very close to this, but has a bit more character from the patchouli. If you can imagine that with sweet sparkly fruity roses over it, that's pretty much 1872.

    I actually like it, but in the same way I kind of like Bond No 9's clever fruity florals (really, 1872 could easily pass as a Bond feminine if sniffed blind). It's certainly not breaking any rules or pushing any boundaries, but it certainly knows how to smell good and not offend anyone.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by rogalal View Post
    In another way, you really can't imagine Bois d'Ombrie until you smell it. The vinegar/wood/leather/incense combination is so completely novel that you really have to smell it.
    When I got a sample of this from you last year, that "boiling acetic acid" accord helped me to finally understand Duchaufour's fragrances, since it's common to many of them from the early 2000's, such as Dzongkha, Piment Brûlant, Jubilation XXV. etc. It's just more obvious in Bois d'Ombrie.

    note to self: break this out when Autumn hits.
    Around here that usually happens around July 4th.
    Last edited by ROtto; 13th June 2010 at 05:47 PM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010



    The last few days I've been sampling quite a few Krigler perfumes, but my favourite of them all is English Promenade.
    It starts off with orange blossom and grapefruit which hit you right in the face as they are very fresh. The top notes last for a very long time and just when you think they have faded, they appear agiain out of nowhere. Middle and base notes are the white musk, neroli and ylang ylang. I'd never heard of this company until finding it by accident whilst searching Google for something else and this perfume has been out since 1919. It is listed as female on many sites, but it is certainly unisex to me. The ingrediants are far from the cheap and nasty that you sometimes smell with certain companies and English promenade is a little creamy, but not too sweet classy fragrance with excellent staying power. Now to get my hands on a full bottle asap

  21. #21

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Sorry double post. Basenotes went wappy on me and stopped for ages

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by ROtto View Post
    Around here that usually happens around July 4th.
    That's not fair - Summer just finally hit here this last Wednesday...
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Currently trying Amouage Reflection , its very nice but cant help thinking its more of less Fleur De Male from Gaultier .... its lovely none the less

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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Today I wore Clive Christian X for Women.



    Meh.

    It's very marshmallow, with some flowers and cherry lollipops at the top and cassis later. There's a patchouli in the background, giving some much-needed depth, but the only other thing that rescues this from being total designer dreck (albeit more concentrated) is a pinch of green leafy ivy which does its best to make things less like candy and more like a balanced, multi-faceted perfume. Unfortunately, it's not really enough to keep X for Women from smelling like a marshmallowy, kid-friendly fruity floral wannabe-Angel-flanker recreated at luxury concentration.

    It's sad, really. I love X for Men, and certainly respect their other mens fragrances, but between this and 1872 for Women, it feels like they really took the low road with their feminines. For the prices these command, I can't help but feel like they could have been a bit more "advanced".

    I'll try No. 1 tomorrow. Hopefully it'll break this losing streak...
    Last edited by rogalal; 14th June 2010 at 06:46 AM.
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Ok, so Clive Christan No. 1 for Women has officially won me back...





    So here it is: The Most Expensive Perfume In The World.


    Thankfully, it's not another fruity floral. No. 1 for Women was obviously designed with former most-expensive perfumes in mind - It's one of those classic-smelling aldehydes like Chanel or Joy.


    The top is old-school aldehydes, with a pinch of orange to keep it from smelling too chemical. That goes down pretty fast as a really nice, creamy sandalwood wells up underneath. It's a bit soapy and a pinch powdery, but not enough to feel overdone, just enough to feel classic around the edges while the expensive-smelling sandalwood hums along.


    Given time, it develops a deep, burnished suede smell straight from the Chanel playbook. It fuses effortlessly with the sandalwood for a few hours, until the orris butter comes in, at which point it feels like Chanel No 5 and L'Heure Bleue had a very expensive baby...


    There are some flowers in there, too (jasmine ala No. 5, as well as a bit of Caron-esque carnation), but they act more as flavoring agents for the super-creamy sandalwood heart and base.


    Really, if you set out to make a perfume using the most expensive ingredients (real sandalwood, carnation, jasmine, orris butter, etc), you'd be hard-pressed to come up with anything better than this. Yes, it's influences are obvious, but it's incredibly well done.


    Chanel or Patou fans, as well as any fans of the golden age of women's perfumes, please do yourself a favor and hunt down a little sample of this. You won't be disappointed. The only problem will be the inevitable sadness when you realize you've fallen in love with a thousand-dollar perfume...
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  26. #26

    Smile Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    My NYC trip didn't turn out quite the way I had planned and I only got to sniffing in the late afternoon. An executive decision led me to choose Bergdorf's women's section and later, Aedes. Because of the limited browsing time, I decided to use the evening to my "To Sample" list.

    I started off at the Caron counter and sniffed EdP versions of Bellodgia, Nuit de Noel, and Tabac Blond. I didn't care for my sample of TB parfum last year but the EdP seemed a bit fuller somehow; interesting. I tend to find tuberose in both nature and perfume slightly sickening but I was blown away by Caron's Tubéreuse. The ad copy called it a soliflore but it is clearly a perfume in its own right, rich and smooth. I need a sample, pronto.

    I quite liked both Bel Ami and Équipage at the Hermès counter, though I cannot recall now which was which.

    The Lutens display allowed me to try a number of the line I had yet to experience but the only ones that intrigued me were Chypre Rouge and Ambre Sultan. I believe I've a sample of the latter lying around--bit of L'ADDM about it--though I may leave it until late summer or autumn. Feminite du Bois seems slightly higher-pitched than the Shiseido version I own and love, and the Bois derivations were instructive, if little else.

    The highlight of my day--and possibly my year--was the Guerlain boutique. I was completely floored by Eau de Guerlain, Derby, Vetiver pour Elle, L'Heure Bleue parfum, Apres l'Ondee parfum, Vol de Nuit parfum and Vega. I love how the extrait tester bottles have atomisers; almost sinful, really. Cologne du Parfumeur was nice enough. Habit Rouge Sport is not very good at all and seems to have very little to do with its namesake.

    I headed down to Aedes on that high and found myself in the middle of a launch party. L'Artisan threw it in honor of the new launch Nuit de Tubéreuse, complete with bar service and several SAs to talk up the release (which I didn't care for, as expected). I had a nice conversation with one of them regarding the rest of the line, culminating in his recommendation of Havana Vanille and Safran Troublant, both of which I ended up liking. The biggest surprise of the day were the fig scents, Premier Figuier and Diptyque's Philosykos. Perversely, I like the taste of figs but not the smell. These two were recognizably figgy, a sort of Platonic ideal of fig, but terrific all the same.

    I sniffed a number of the MPGs but I lost all of my sample cards in the commotion and cannot remember anything about them. TDC Sel de Vetiver, MFK APOM pour Homme, and Heeley Cuir Pleine were the others that piqued my interest. I wish I had more time at Aedes and fewer people to squeeze past to sample things.

    A productive trip in the end, though I will be looking for an excuse to make an all-day marathon of Bergdorf's (Men's, too), Barney's, Henri Bendel's, C.O. Bigelow, and Aedes sooner rather than later. Lots of new stuff to get samples of in the meantime.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Hermes Ambre Narguile .... Now I read that this doesnt seem to get much love on BN but I really do like this , tried a couple of times this past few days and its great stuff , seriously a contender for FBW despite the crazy price for an EDT which I wouldnt normally consider .... anyone else get a strange ketchup thang going on LOL !!!! Still its great stuff imho

  28. #28

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Pour_Monsieur View Post
    Hermes Ambre Narguile .... Now I read that this doesnt seem to get much love on BN but I really do like this , tried a couple of times this past few days and its great stuff , seriously a contender for FBW despite the crazy price for an EDT which I wouldnt normally consider .... anyone else get a strange ketchup thang going on LOL !!!! Still its great stuff imho
    Since when doesn't it get love on BN? Everyone who tries it loves it and raves about it.
    Last edited by mtgprox05; 16th June 2010 at 09:29 PM.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

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  29. #29
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Count me among the Ambre Narguile lovers, too...

    For the last couple of days I’ve been wearing the just-mentioned-by-Emly Guerlain Vetiver pour Elle.



    It’s an interesting perfume, to be sure. All the DNA of Guerlain’s classic Vetiver is in there, but it’s so completely scrambled that you’d never really identify it.

    In an abstract way, I find most vetivers (and vetiver itself as a note) very jagged – in my mind, I imagine those sharp grasses that can cut your skin, with sharp pointy tops. The smell of vetiver (simultaneously acrid, dry, green, earthy, dirty, icy, and medicinal) strikes me as very sharp, just like my exaggerated image of the plant itself. Somehow, Vetiver pour Elle manages to round over all those edges and come off as perfectly smooth.

    It kicks off with an icy cool vetiver (not medicinal or grassy, but just icy) paired with some sort of flowers and a bunch of nutmeg and ginger. This stage is a pinch awkward on me, but it pretty quickly settles into a sort of gingery sandalwoody leather with a bit of that icy vetiver on top.

    Given time, the leather got stronger, with the spicy nutmeg and icy vetiver continuing on. My go-to comparison for leathery vetiver is Le Labo’s Vetiver 46, but there’s really no comparison. Vetiver 46 is rough and dirty and smells of hot sweaty sex in a field of vetiver, while Vetiver pour Elle is classy, smoothed, and refined. This isn’t raunchy leather, this is Chanel leather.

    By the base, not much was left but a light mix of lemony verbena and nutmeg with just a tiny pinch of icy vetiver remaining.

    All in all, this is very good, but didn’t really speak to me. I really do prefer my nasty vetivers, so, while I appreciate and am impressed that Guerlain was able to create an incredibly classy, smooth vetiver, I kind of wish it felt a bit less neutered, but that's kind of the whole point.

    But don’t let that put you off of sampling it – those are just my personal preferences. Vetiver fanatics do owe it to themselves to try Vetiver pour Elle, because it really is something different within a crowded, often similar genre.
    Last edited by rogalal; 16th June 2010 at 11:26 PM.
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  30. #30
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    lol here's a very good one for you all:



    im trying to rediscover my fragrance-roots

  31. #31

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Calvin, by Calvin Klein from 1981 (although this sample is probably the third incarnation of the scent) - but I wanted a flashback scent to experience.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Rogalal, how I do love Vetiver Pour Elle. It's amazing IMO.
    <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

    Obsessions of the Moment- Kristiansand EDC, Green Irish Tweed, Zizan

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  33. #33

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Pour_Monsieur View Post
    Hermes Ambre Narguile .... Now I read that this doesnt seem to get much love on BN but I really do like this
    Really? I thought it was well liked (in general). I am going to have to visit the reviews.
    Evenstar

  34. #34
    Basenotes Junkie CX827's Avatar
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Pour_Monsieur View Post
    Hermes Ambre Narguile .... Now I read that this doesnt seem to get much love on BN but I really do like this , tried a couple of times this past few days and its great stuff , seriously a contender for FBW despite the crazy price for an EDT which I wouldnt normally consider .... anyone else get a strange ketchup thang going on LOL !!!! Still its great stuff imho
    Like this one!! Ambre Nargulie probably is the heaviest one from this line, and the longevity not bad either.
    lol, didn't get much the ketchup thang going on, but instead, the fragrances get kind of those instant cinnamon oatmeals which make me crave for some.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Today I wore Nasomatto China White.



    Nasomatto scents seem to teeter on the razor's edge between expertly-blended and crude, loud, and ugly. With the few that I've tried, I'm still not sure if they're just lucky accidents or the work of a masterful hand skillfully pushing the boundaries. Duro's loud oud hits you like a club to the back of the neck, while Black Afgano's smoky bongwater requires a really open-minded wearer. China White is a bit less of a shocker, but challenging nonetheless.

    It's primary a rather dumbfounding mix of odd notes that smells different on skin than it does in its silage. After some aldehydes quickly faded, on skin, it smelled like scorched pine sap and some crushed dirt and ivy leaves. The real weirdness was in the silage, which smelled like that specific kind of non-sweaty cumin that comes off like spicy deep-fried food (I've only smelled this note elsewhere in Parfum d'Empire's Aziyade, which smelled to me mostly like fresh Indian pakoras). Equal to the deep-fat-fried cumin was some sort of sweet, fruity resin with a pinch of indiscernible florals in the background.

    My boss, who absolutely never comments on my fragrances, no matter how unusual, said the office smelled like "weird incense" and the strangely-literal fried-food note never felt really comfortable on me. So, despite being truly interesting and despite my trying really hard to like it, China White gets a no vote from me, with the caveat that it's probably worth sampling if you're in that everything's-starting-to-smell-the-same rut, because it certainly doesn't smell like any other perfume I've tried. And if you're a fan of Idole-de-Lubin-style weirdness, this might be right up your alley.
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  36. #36
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    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Yesterday, I wore The Different Company Un Parfum des Sens & Bois.



    The first minute of this was a wonderful woody vetiver that almost had me reaching for my credit card. Sadly, it almost immediately broke down into a confusing floral chemical mud that I can best describe as flower petals macerating in rubbing alcohol. Given an hour or so, the vetiver started coming back, combining with that rubbing alcohol note to smell a bit like boozy absinthe until it got strong enough to smell like itself. And that's about it. Alcohol, vetiver, flowers, and a pinch of background wood.

    In it's defense, this wasn't the waaaaaaaay-overexposed "woody amber" note that's ruined men's designer perfumery for me. It was more literal than that - like pure rubbing alcohol. Perhaps Sens & Bois uses a natural woody amber? Does that even exist? Anyway, it just wasn't that pleasant for me. I'll take Bois d'Ombrie's weird red wine vinegar over this, though it's strange in a similar way.


    On a personal note, my yearly trip to NYC starts tomorrow, so I'll be away for a while, but I plan on doing an awful lot of sniffing and shopping while I'm there. If anyone's in town, I'll be the crazy guy camped out in the Bergdorf's basement...
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  37. #37

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Lacoste Challenge

    98% fizzy synthetic "rosewood" (what IS that note? It's the same dominant synthetic woody note in Straight to Heaven). 2% other notes.

    I can't motivate myself to say any more about this. I've no problems with designer scents as a whole, but this is bad. The only challenge presented by this fragrance is finding anything within to like. Pass!
    ***For sale:

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  38. #38

    Default Re: Sample of the Day - JUNE 2010

    Last night I had a fantastic experience trying out Madame X by Ava Luxe for the first time. I thought I'd share here my review that I have just written. Gimme more of these!

    "Some of the previous reviews got me wondering whether I was wearing the same fragrance yesterday. Anyway, this is my take:
    I have very high respect for Ingmar Bergman's movies and therefore, one of my most favorite is "Hour of the Wolf", which is also one of his most challenging and disturbing ones. It kept me busy thinking for at least two weeks. It features a very prominent scene - a party at the castle of this deserted island. Wearing and sniffing Madame X I figure being impressed by the appearance of Madame X at this party, beautiful and classy wearing a red robe. I turn around to get her a glass of champagne and turn back to see her in the red dress, but with a wolf's head The fragrance Madame X starts off with style, a burst of opulence and class (read the note list above!) just to very soon transform into something deeply and smokily animalic and only hints of the initial beauty left. In the drydown, which stays very close to the skin, the initial complex smelling beauty, is gradually coming back to the foreground a bit, but never to make a full appearance again. This is a surreal fragrance like the movie I am referring to. What an experience! This is fabulous and I'm so happy I dared to buy it blind. On the more "technical" side it wears very close to my skin with moderate longevity, which I don't fault it for. This is more of an experiment and experience than a fragrance I would wear every day. For comparison reasons I had Rose de Nuit on the other wrist, Muscs Koublai Khan on the inside of my arm and further up both of them layered. All three variations share a certain vibe. Unfortunately, I am not experienced enough to distinguish castoreum or civet as individual notes, but maybe these added to a layered RdN and MKK would make a very close scent...

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