Which ones have you had a chance to sample so far.
It's my utmost pleasure to sample and explore this exquisite range of perfumes . Thank you Cairomerta and Sergio Momo who kindly mailed the entire line to me.
The website is www.xerjoff.com- i swooned at the bottles- they are works of art .
I will pass these on to actiasluna next as she PM'd me for them and in turn actiasluna may mail them to another basenoter to sample.
I have 18 perfumes from the Xerjoff Line and I will list out the 3 collections available to sample.
** In either natural quartz stone bottles or Murano glass - sounds wonderfully luxurious !
Casamorati 1888 Xerjoff Vintage Collection
** 2 NEW perfumes- Bouquet Ideale for Women and Fiero for men for this collection which Cairomerta will send to me - so it will be included in the set when I mail them to actiasluna.
Please see Dimitri's blog too for his excellent articles on Xerjoff fragrances:
Also a thread http://www.basenotes.net/threads/227...ciation-Thread
(Thanks Dimitri for this thread.... )
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 11th April 2010 at 01:42 AM.
Which ones have you had a chance to sample so far.
Casamorati 1888 Xerjoff Vintage ( love that word ! ) Collection
Mefisto EDP - sampled twice . Oriental - notes of italian bergamot,Grasse lavender,rose and iris. Really bright ,sparkling fresh opeing with that bergamot and lavender and then melds into the rose and iris. Long lasting ,airy- bright but tenacious. QUALITY ingredients for sure . It's very well blended ,progresses smoothly . Classically elegant ...in a word .....class. unisex,suave, very slightly powdery .
Fiore d'Ulivo EDP- sampled twice. Citrus -notes of lotus and olive flowers,jasmine, magnolia.The sample card says 'fresh,light and citrus'.
This is indeed a ' magical springtime potion' - it opens up citrussy , clean . I smell the olive and the lotus flowers but the jasmine and magnolia seem to meld together on my skin. It has a 'soapy' character- very fresh . Definitely evokes italian spring flowers and sunshine. Exquisite.
Both the EDPs last 4- 6 hours on my scent eating skin . Mefisto is more complex to me. Both are kind of enigmatic , classy .
These are definitely wearable by both men and women .
XJ 17/17 Collection
IRISSs. Parfum Concentration. Sampled twice.Yes- it's spelt that way - not one of my usual spelling errors. It lives up to its name. Oh My - this is GORGEOUS iris. Notes of iris,carrot seeds,rose ,ylang,ylang, rare woods,resins, incenses and musks.This was created with one of the most exclusive varieties of iris butter - as is stated on the card.
People- if you love iris, you will adore this. On my skin, this is iris,iris, iris- it's beautiful. Almost a soliflore .Wonderfully iris and slightly carroty opening - I mean I swooned. The carrot aspect goes quickly and it becomes powdery ,then buttery ,deeper and deeper. it's magic. I love this one very much.
Elle. Parfum Concentration. Sampled twice.Floral- oriental, Wood, Amber. Notes of citrus accents, galbanum resin, orange blossom,iris, leather of birch,woods, pathcouli,amber,musk and tonkiphora balm .
On my skin, this opens sweet, almost gourmand in sweetness. Within a few minutes, it calms ,the sweetness pulls back a little and I get ambery deep,woods and musk.Quite mysterious, tenacious ,much' thicker' in nature compared to Irisss ,Mefisto and Fiore d'Ulivo which are more ethereal.
A sexy,earthy siren perfume ! Well blended .
I have three words to sum these perfumes up so far- CLASS, QUALITY, ELEGANCE.
OK... another 14 to go ! *GRIN*
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 05:45 AM.
Thank you for your impressions! Can't wait to post my impression soon hopefully
I have a story regarding Irisss. I purchased the 50ml refill from Urban Retreat after falling in love with it at first sniff. I then sprayed myself liberally as I walked out. On the way to the hotel, I got a very similiar feeling to AG La Violette or The Unicorn Spell (two of the best violets out there). It turned to a powdery, green violet on my skin, so I decided to return Irisss. On the way back to Harrods, some guy came running behind me and snatched the Harrods bag from the hand and ran away so fast. When I realized I was mugged, I started to chase after him, even though he was long gone, and I started cursing and cursing. Some nice folks who witnessed the robbery, told me the thief grabbed a cab and fled the scene. The police told me that regrettably that there were no CCTV cameras where I was robbed. I returned to the Urban Retreat and told Benji the lovely SA about the incident, and he was so broken-hearted he actually got a little teary-eyed. He informed me that if the thief, or a female companion of the thief, came to return or exchange the item, he would notify me and the police. But alas, he didn't show up. So I kinda hope I don't fall in love with Irisss again, because I'm afraid I'll have to shell out another 350 GBP on it!
Last edited by scent; 9th April 2010 at 11:46 PM.
Thanks scent ! I'm trying to savor these ,trying not to rush through the sampling- they are great.
Wonderful reviews mysticknot - you make them all sound so incredible! I don't know how I'll manage to get IRISSs of my mind now - like an itch I know I should't scratch! The Fiore D'Ulivo also sounds divine. Thanks so much for calling our attention to these exquisite-sounding perfumes - I'll be eagerly awaiting your next installment!
Last edited by Evangeline; 9th April 2010 at 11:59 PM.
I had The Unicorn Spell ,Scent - it was very piercingly sweet and green, IRISSs doesn't strike me as similar. It's a better, much higher quality XXX iris perfume .... iris soliflore. It seems a travesty to compare it to anything really. I love the different aspects of iris it seems to cover. Carrotty,rooty earthy,then powdery ,then buttery , then depth.
Evangeline- these perfumes are quality ,quality ,quality ,from start to finish. Have you seen the bottles on the website ? Talk about wonderful art especially the quartz bottles.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 12:54 AM.
cairomerta I have a question about the Refill Riserva Murano bottles. I'm loving the square design of the bottles. It says it comes with 30ml of parfum. Does it only come in 30ml or is the 50ml refill also included? What bottles come with several refills for "free"?
1) The murano Pochette glass. These are the smal egg shaped Murano bottles that come in 4 colors and each color has a scent attached to it. Blue is XXY, Black is Homme, Cristal is Irisss and golden color is Elle. These are 15ml. You can only get those like that
2) The other way is the Murano Collection (Not Pochette). The flacons come in amazingly decorated wooden boxes and an ebony stand. The colors are Blue, Red, Cristal, Green and Black. These you can choose any color flacon you want and any scent you want. The bottles bottles come empty but with the scent of your choice and you decant it into the flacon when you get it. The Murano is are 45-50ml because of the hand made nature of it but you get a 50ml worth of scent in a glass pour spout bottle with a funnel.
3) The reserva line which is a small boxy type with a stopper on it... I will have to check and get back to you on. They are great looking little bottles huh.
Towards fall, the 17/17 line will be introduced in 100ml glass bottles like the shooting stars line. They will have cut slab pieces put on the front of each bottle. They are beautiful and will be lower in price. I hope this helps.
Last edited by cairomerta; 10th April 2010 at 05:02 AM.
To continue on my sniffaroo of Xerjoff- I have worked my way through the XJ 17/17 Collection.
It's a treat ! It gets better and better.
XJ 17/17 - Homme . Parfum - highest concentration.Sampled on husband and sampled on myself. Leather-Wood .Notes of citrus,spices,cloves,lavender flowers,Lysilang,ylang ylang,leather, vetiver,woods.
OK- this is seriously sexy leather. It's immediate, strong, apparent .
The thought that comes to mind is a woodier ,less potent Onda by Vero Profumo. ( As much as I appreciate Onda as a quality perfume - I get TCP - in the UK - this is a strong, tenacious skin disinfectant. I apologise ! )
Onda I can't tolerate ( sorry ! ) but this is sexy - it never verges on the ' TCP' area ,but skims around it though staying quite tart - did I say that it's sexy ? Think -' strong gorgeous man on horseback' / or strong sexy woman on horseback ...... other imagery ... " sexy man / woman in spanky new Ferrari whith the best leather upholstery smell wafting ......"
On my husband it is manly, has that 'Grrrr' factor. *GRIN*
On me ,it's Marlene Dietrich I guess ! The vetiver I can smell and it just enhances this perfume. A+++ ! Strong, dynamic.
*Primrose- I think this is up your street ,lady !
Lysilang is robertet fraction of Ylang oil - searched for and taken from the Official Basenotes Xerjoff thread.
XJ 17/17 XXY. Parfum - highest concentration. Sampled,tested once this evening ,as a going out fragrance. Chypre- Oriental to me. Notes of black pepper,patchouli,bergamot,jasmine,amber,woods.
It has a delicious citrus opening ,almost savory ,bright ,alittle black pepper that comes in , the pepper gets stronger on me and stays ,swirled in with the pathcouli and jasmine . Lovely drydown - I get pepper, patchouli ,amber ,woods . Opens bright, turns down on volume ,still pulsates beautifully on my skin.
** The XJ 17/17 Collection samples are ALL parfum versions so you're in for treat with these.
I love how these parfums are totally unisex. Even Homme could be used by a woman .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 06:14 AM.
OMG Mysticnot, I am seriously watching this thread. I don't feel expert enough to sample and share opinions, but I WILL be sampling these on my own as they become available here. These sound fabulous and rich, something that intrigues me to no end.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 06:15 AM.
Great review on homme mystic. I love that one. It is the best leather scent I have ever smelled. I am actually really intrigued about how it developed on you. With the name homme many women shy away from it but it's great to hear that you tried it and it worked great on you!
I am actually going to be sending you another set of the entire line mystic and you can send it to the next person on your PM list. Let me know if that's ok.
I also have two more openings for a free sample set of the womens line. Just PM me your address and it will go out on Monday.
Last edited by cairomerta; 10th April 2010 at 07:20 AM.
PS: It may also worth noting that the 4 new XerJoff Shooting Stars scents in the silk pouches are available for sale here in Europe at www.ausliebezumduft.de at a price of €200 for 50ml.
Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 10th April 2010 at 07:19 AM.
Cairomerta- you just maybe right- XJ 17/17 Homme is a wonderful leather scent.
Dimitri- Cheers back. I love your writing on Xerjoff. Which brings me to The Shooting Stars Collection .............
Modoc. For men ( but really unisex I think ) EDP. Chypre . Tested on husband and tested on myself.Green ,floral ,amber,woody. Notes of Vetiver, butter of Florentine iris ( sounds yummy ) ,wood musk.
When I first applied this the vetiver and iris just pops out - it's deliriously good. The vetiver and iris are warmed ;rounded by the ambery woody musky notes. It goes on strong,spicey,smooth and distinctive -it stays like that with the vetiver being most prominent on me .
Equally good on my husband as on me. A rich perfume in notes and character. It's quite a 3 dimensional perfume - long lasting. There is a little sweetness- nothing heavy or gourmand - just 'wood sweet'.
Dimitri calls it 'captivating' and 'deliciously velvety' in his article and I have to agree.
Dhofar. For men. ( aw... c'mon- it's unisex ! ) EDP. Aromatic fougere ? Tested on myself. Notes of lavender, pine needles,Jatamansi ( muskroot ) ,orange flowers,carnation,amber, australian sandalwood, Ciste Labdanum .
( Dhofar is a region in south Oman ,next to Yemen. Frankincense is what it was known for )
Starts off really fresh and spicey on my skin - must be the pine needles and gradually the lavender takes over, the carnation is gorgeous and adds to the spicy kick,lovely labdanum. I swear I get cinnamon too !
This is a calming fragrance, a mind clearing, calming fragance with notes like lavender, jatamansi ( which is used for ayurveda to aid the mind and balance the body ) ..labdanum . Quite centering. I love it. Spiritual and evokes the exotic middle east. This is quite an interesting fragrance- soulful .A++++
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 05:05 PM.
The Casamorati range if I remember correctly from when I enquired comes in 75ml and not refillable. Their bottle design has also changed becuase the ones they were using a while ago were porcelain and porous. There are also two other fragrances in the Casamorati range which I don't think have been mentioned yet on here, these are BOUQUET IDEALE for Women and FIERO for men, which I am very eager to try.
I'm eager to give these a sniff but honestly those 'ultra-luxe' bottles are just plain ugly, and the names are horrendous. I'm a bit worried that these scents and people's impressions of them may be built more around hype and expectations rather than reality.. but then a lot of respected noses say these are some quality scents.
I don't know though. I think Xerjoff's attempts at being ultra-luxe are cheesier, and more poorly realized, than even Clive Christian.
Any counterpoint opinions out there or am I really to believe that every Xerjoff scent is basically 'best of category?"
edit: The XJ and shooting stars colletions' bottles are ok. Those Casamorati bottles are horrible, though.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 10th April 2010 at 07:34 PM.
You are correct Craig. The Casamorati 1888 line only comes in the 75ml size. All the bottles are made of hand finished Tuscan glass, meaning all the bottles that come of the small batch assembly line are hand flames by a person to remove any defects from the bottle. They are also hand painted and even down to the celophane wrapping on the outside of the box is hand wrapped. There are 2 new ones like you mentioned (fiero in a green bottle and bouquet ideale in a red bottle) really wonderful scent.
I don't pretend to be a respected nose- just a basenoter who is enthusiastic about fragrance but I DO know quality when I see and smell it. As for the bottles, I do find them works of art epecially with the quartz stone bottles - my gemological training predisposes me to loving that kind of art.
Each to their own but I think these perfumes,the ones I have sampled so far- are excellent.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 10th April 2010 at 11:33 PM.
Tobacco Oroville EDP.For men. Green floral ?? Sampled twice.Notes of roman chamomile,clary sage,orange flowers,italian neroli,carnation,tobacco leaves from Cuba, Mysore Sandalwood,galbanum,vanilla,amber, white musks. This opens up spicey ,herby on my skin - it's quite an unusual fragrance,strong at first. A lot of the spice is coming from the carnation I think - it's a lovely mix of herb and warm spice with the carnation kick. Quite complex,quite sexy I think .
** On the website ,this perfume is just called Oroville but on the sample and in the little description on the website - it is called Tobacco Oroville.
Uden EDP.For men. Sampled twice. Citrus ( on me ) . Notes of citrus, guaico wood,rum absolute,coffee, amber, vanilla. I love this one. It remains mostly citrus to me but it's the combination of citrus, vanilla and amber that appeals to me so much . I wonder if there is a little musk in this too. Quite beautiful . Fresh ,very wearable. As it dries down ,it reminds of the opening citrus of Nasomatto Silver Musk which I was crazy for at one time. Gets a little more woody as it progresses. Lovely ! Perfect lasting citrus ,woody, light musk .
Kobe EDP. For men. Sampled twice.Citrus- Oud- Wood. Notes of citrus,Italian neroli, petitgrain from Paraguay,rose woods, balsamic resins,Calabrese bergamot, Florida oranges.
This is one of my favorites and surprsingly it has Oud in it- not one of my liked notes ! Although the website says this is citrus, I would have to say it is more oriental on my skin . When I first apply this perfume, the petitgrain is amazing- I love petitgrain. Then it whoa ! 'what's that lovely smell now ?'....which turned out to be a smooth and soft but persistent Oud ! ( Not a big Montale Oud ) Beautiful, refined,broody even.
I even get a little incense. So it begins fresh and bright, progresses to Oud and becomes this warm ,soft and persistent fragrance. Alittle exotic ,very wearable again by both men and women .
Nio EDP.For men. Sampled twice.Herb-Grass-Citrus.Notes of citrus,neroli,Calabrian bergamot,spicey notes,cardomom,nutmeg,rose pepper,cedar,guiaco woods,haiti vetiver,Indian patchouli.
What I am noticing about the Xerjoff citrussy scents is that although these are 'light' in character ,they persist in strength which is a good thing . On applicaton , this is very aromatic grassy ,a little herby ,fresh . There is little, very little spice to this on my skin.The citrus never goes away and is joined by cedar. Like walking in the morning on fresh tall grass ,near lemon trees. Zesty !
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 11th April 2010 at 05:00 PM.
You know, Uden was the first scent I had ever purchased from Xerjoff and I was crazy for it. I actually picked it up on a trip to Harrods and it was from that one scent, that I went crazy for the line. Xerjoffs scents have an amazing way of keeping the citrus notes prominent throughout the entire development. Most perfumes citrus notes fade away very fast.
With Kobe, that is one of the most unique citrus incense combination I have smelled. It has a thick resinous feel to it but is cut just wonderfully with that pettitgrain note that once again last all throughout the development! This one has amazing sillage.
With Oroville, I was actually sent that by Sergio before it was even released so that I can sample and I thought it was such a unique tobacco scent with the carnation in it. It had a freshness in it that I never experienced in a tobacco scent before. The tobacco in it is like a fresh wet tobacco, not the dried out cigar type. Really unique take on tobacco!
I realize I use the word unique a lot when describing the line because they really do have a uniqueness that I havent smelled in perfume before. Xerjoff doesn't shy away from making a statement with the perfumes. They are not thin watery scents. You really get rich decadent perfumes with this line.
Last edited by cairomerta; 11th April 2010 at 06:03 PM.
Cairomerta- you are right about the strength of the citrus scents. The citrus never goes away - it's so unusual for citrus to last and last like that. Attests to the quality of the materials. They do last and last.
For example- Oroville - lasted through my shower ! When I applied some at night, it was still faintly there in the morning and it's EDP.
I just love Kobe ! it's incensey isn't it ?! Oroville is quite unique too - like you said.
There's not a bad one for me so far, Cairomerta. Quite amazing.
Each has its own character .
I've been sampling two from the ladies' selection from The Shooting Stars Collection this evening. As I have come to expect from this line- these two are interesting,memorable,unusual and lasting.
I read online that each one of these perfumes takes over a year to create and with 10-12 corrections /testings.
I could not help uploading this picture.
Shingl EDP. Oriental. Notes of bergamot,basil, anise,iris,rum,vanilla,amber and musk. The only way I can describe how this perfume smells at first ,from the opening notes- is 'shiny' - it's a very shiny- ( like sun reflected off metal ) fragrance. The opening to me is herby bright and especially the anise strikes immediately .Then it becomes it's semi-sweet -almost fruity and the rum adds that bit of edge. Very tenacious with depth. So on me, it's rum-anise-amber-vanilla. A lovely fragrance which I think a man could pull off too . Very lasting - I can imagine two good sprays of this would be sufficient for quite some time! Anise + rum are the big players here - it's a good combination -a good cocktail !
I find it uplifting and fresh in some ways. You must like anise to love this- I do love anise.
Dhajala EDP. Floral Oriental. Notes of orange blossom,orange, galbanum,jasmine,rose pepper ,wood,Tonkiphora balsam,amber, Myroswelia Balsam .
( Both Tonkiphora Balsam and Myroswelia Balsam come from Robertet - a natural aroma / fragrance and flavor company,if I am right. )
***This fragrance has an appropriate name for the Shooting Stars collection because Dhajala in India is where pieces of a meteorite landed in 1976 !
This perfume opens big ,bold floral and some sweet orange on me,kept a little green with the galbanum.Then it calms down after a few minutes and the spicey notes pick up ,it gets smoother -hard for me to get the jasmine. The green remains in the background throughout this perfume. It's more woody incense as you go to the drydown. Lovely deep and broody,warm, slightly green drydown- like floral ,green/herbal forest-woody, incense in drydown. I like this very much . This is quite a bold fragrance.
This perfume progresses so the drydown is quite a contrast from the opening in many ways. I find the drydown extremely sniffable and addictive .
After sniffing and wondering - the drydown reminds me a little of Ormonde Jayne Woman ...or even Absinth by Nasomatto in some aspects.Mysterious,addictive, greenish incense magic elixir! ( I hope my sniffer is not going awry ! )
Actually I love both so what can I do ??? Different personalities ,both beauties,both unisex ! Again ! A man could easily pull both off .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 12th April 2010 at 06:56 AM.
The names of the shooting stars line are based on regions where there have been known metoerite activity. The names to me are actually quite intriguing. Note some examples.
Dhofar is a region in Yemen where there is recently discovered to be rich in meteorites.
The Ibitira meteroite fell in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil on 30 June 1957 between 5:00 and 5:30 local time.
Uden was a meteroite which was witnessed to fall in the southern Dutch province of Noord Brabant on June 12, 1840, between 10 and 11 am local time.
Esquel is a pallasite meteorite found near Esquel, a patagonian town in the northwest part of the province of Chubut (Argentina)
Modoc was a Meteorite Shower at Modoc, Kansas
It goes on and on. So the names are true to the theme of the line and are actually based on locations and regions of actually meteorite showers.
Last edited by cairomerta; 12th April 2010 at 07:13 AM.
Thanks cairomerta - I find that fascinating !
Oesel EDP. For men ( really unisex ! ) Floral -oriental Sampled twice. I don't know how I figured this was a ladies' perfume - it's actually listed in The Shooting Stars Collection under the men's selection.
Notes of lemon,orange blossom,petitgrain from Paraguay, Bulgarian rose, Jasmine Sambac, acacia and white flowers,ambergris,wood,Indian patchouli,cedarwood,tabacco flowers.
I don't think I can adequately describe how symphonically beautiful the opening of this perfume is - white flowery orange blossom interlaced with that fabulous petitgrain and lifted with a touch of lemon .That petitgrain is key - a fab note here! It's unisex - no doubt. You could be seduced by the first few minutes of this perfume alone !
The progression of this perfume to drydown is addictive -it becomes less flowery ,more woodsy,ambery and that touch of cedar. You want to keep sniffing and sniffing. Quite enigmatic . It melds into a golden smell . Gets a little warm powdery in the drydown - with a hint of a tabacco note- the ambergris and the tobacco flowers maybe.
THIS is a great perfume - so well made . Again it lasts. Wonderful - hats off to the perfumer.
Esquel EDP. For women ( really you can interchange all the men's and the ladies' perfumes ) Fougere- Floral-Aromatic. Sampled twice. Notes of Iris,rose pepper,rose absolute,woods,patchouli heart, vanilla,oppoponax,Fava Tonka. I also get lemon, some lavender.
Bright, energetic,zesty floral opening with the iris and lemon plus lavender. The Xerjoff description doesn't mention citrus notes or lavender but swear it's in this perfume. The opening turns almost savory which kind of reminds me a little of Jicky ( though it is not that similar apart from the lavender ) Gorgeous. If you like the Jicky fougere style- you will love this one. So I would describe this as a sharp,elegant,nearly savory lavender- lemon fougere. The vanilla and oppoponax just warm it up a touch so it's not too tart and adds some depth to this perfume.
Non conformist ! For the independent thinking woman. This perfume will give you a clear calm mind ,for sure, with that lemon and lavender.
Men - you will love this too .
I keep repeating myself when I say this- there not one bad offering in this collection here. All are different but the quality shines through.Bravo ,bravo !
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 13th April 2010 at 12:32 AM.
I don't know though. I think Xerjoff's attempts at being ultra-luxe are cheesier, and more poorly realized, than even Clive Christian.
Any counterpoint opinions out there or am I really to believe that every Xerjoff scent is basically 'best of category?"
edit: The XJ and shooting stars colletions' bottles are ok. Those Casamorati bottles are horrible, though.
----------Edit after comment below----------meant this to be humorous. Was not trying to "score samples." in fact, I have no interest in reviewing samples for this thread/group as I do not have the experience to give a comprehensive review.
Last edited by C Rose; 14th April 2010 at 04:11 PM.
No that is not the way to score samples. You simply had to PM me as I made it available for the first 5 men and first 5 women who did. I have known sculpture for a while and he is well respected basenoter so I sent him samples to judge on the scents and not a bottle. I hope this helps.
Last edited by cairomerta; 13th April 2010 at 02:34 AM.
I found this article which may be of interest to you guys.I also learnt today that each of the bottles of The Shooting Stars collection contains a piece of meteorite in it ! Nice pictures too. I translated it from romanian to english and I hope this cames out as such when you click on the link above.
**No - it's still in romanian .I think you can get Google to translate it into english . If not ,you can go to the source on Octavian Coifan's website and then click the link ,translate it to english from there. This is the link to Octavian's site - go to the little article re. Xerjoff - double click on the word ' FB'.
So now to my remaining two perfumes to try from The Shooting Stars Collection.
After this I will be sampling the two new perfumes from the Casamorati 1888 Vintage Collection.
Ibitira EDP. For Women. Sampled twice. Floral. Iris dominant. Notes of Bulgarian roses, Florentine Iris, cedar wood, vanilla bourbon ,Haitian vetiver.
IRIS!!!!! On application ,this opens up a beautiful cool,dominant iris ( very little rose wafting too ) - clear ,cool crisp iris note warmed up ,given more dimension with a little vanilla . The perfect notes of vetiver and cedar keeps this a green flower, maybe 'a little' powdery as it drys down but mostly it retains is cool wet green iris character throughout . Very nearly an iris soliflore. A different perfume from IRISSs though both are Iris . The iris in this is closer to Prada's Infusion d'Iris . This is clearly an iris fragrance of excellent quality. Soft, pulsating iris perfume,melds with your skin. Ther is no harshness to this. A soft iris pillow . Oh YUM !
LOVE this ! Iris lovers out there- this is one to try.
Lua EDP. For Women .Gourmand -floral-oriental . Sampled twice. Notes of bergamot,Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris, rose pepper, vanilla.
A burst of bergamot freshness to start ,then quickly becomes richer ,sweeter with the rose-iris combo though neither of those floral notes stand out alone , I can smell the dash of rose pepper in it. All the while the vanilla is there keeping it sweet too.The only note that stands alone in this is the inital bergamot which does seems to remain throughout in the background ,stopping this fragrance from getting rich and sweet.
Opulent, sexy ,rich in smell, tenacious .There must be some woody amber in here too for depth .
Very nice - would suit those who love sweet orientals .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 13th April 2010 at 05:20 PM.
The final two for me to write about, are the two new fragrances from the Casamorati 1888 Vintage Collection.
Fiero .For men. EDP. Spicy Citrus. Sampled twice. Notes of citrus,italian fruits, aromatic herbs,woods. The Xerjoff site doesn't list more than this.
The opening citrus is tart yet rounded because I think I am getting some of the aromatic herbs in the opening- I am guessing a touch of anise, maybe sage or clary sage,maybe a little basil or tarragon, a little lavender too. This gives it an extra dimension.This stays mostly a smooth citrus scent, very sauve with little hints of fruit ( maybe fig or pomegranate ?? ) and herbs ,a little wood at the drydown-Very elegant, very understated class. As has been said before , Xerjoff citrus lasts right to the drydown .
You know- the imagery with this ..........is a man in a very well cut italian suit,standing by a 6 star hotel bar with a cognac in his hand . You just whisper in his ear and you get a whiff of his very elegant expensive scent. This is it. ( Maybe James Bond in Casino Royale ! ) I would say it would be very inviting to smell on a man . Though, women if you like your citrus , this is good too !
Citrus ,herby tangy delight with the sophisticated element thrown in.
** I may dare to say this is almost a chypre for men.
Bouquet Ideale. For Women. EDP. Sampled twice. Gourmand floral . Notes of powdery cashmere accord ,vanilla,Papirus. These are the notes given on the website.
Straightaway ,it's vanilla and that cashmerey accord - warm , slightly smokey,slight spicy, sweet. It's quite a dense fragrance in scent. I get what seems like powdery woody vanilla . It's not a 'dessert vanilla' but rich,round and sweet . There is a cinnamon note that I get as the perfume progresses- I don't know if it's in the perfume but I definitely get cinnamon .I also wonder if there is rose and iris in here too which would add to the slight sweet floral powder .
A delicious liquid - delectably rich in depth .
Sweet vanilla spice and smoke mixed with wood and cashmere. Strong but soft too . Somehow, Xerjoffs manage to pull back ,in the nick of time, from being overbearing. Lovely ! I can imagine wearing this in winter or in the evenings .Cosy but sophisticated too .
And here ends my wonderful sniffing adventure with Xerjoff. I have enjoyed this olfactory adventure. I have discovered so much and learnt a great deal. My many thanks to Sergio Momo and Cairomerta for giving me a wonderful opening to the 'Xerjoff Scent World. '
My favorites are many but the stand outs -for me - are :
Homme, XXY, IRISSs,Modoc,Dhofar, Kobe,Oesel
Actiasluna- I'll be mailing this to you by the end of this week at the very latest. Enjoy ! I did !
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 14th April 2010 at 06:38 AM.
I want to thank Cairomerta for his generous offer, especially after my rather rude (and definitely premature) attack of the house. I try to remain objective when I test anything, whether it be a cheap designer like my SotD Versace Pour Homme (which I absolutely love), or the ultra-expensive scents such as Amouage Dia Man (which I think is, objectively, a high quality scent, but it does absolutely nothing for me) or the By Kilians (tried STH and CI and find both to be, despite their high % of naturals, overwhelmed by the synthetic base notes and wildly out of balance.)
Anyhow, I apologize for my rude comments above. Truth be told I don't find most of the bottles nearly as bad as I did before - did they get new pictures and ad copy? Actually, I quite like a number of the bottles. I look forward to testing their contents.
I just want to say now, upfront, that if I do end up disliking or criticizing any of the scents, it does not detract an ounce of gratitude I have to Cairomerta for extending the offer. Gratitude though, does not exempt me from my responsibility to report my impressions as truthfully and accurately as possible.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 14th April 2010 at 06:36 AM.
SOS- I hope you enjoy them as much as I have done. They really are quite wonderful . Of course it is only right to review honestly, no matter what. I did not dislike a single one however. C'est la vie !
Gratitude did not make me love these scents. My nose did. Even if it is not an expert nose.
I guess to conclude I should say ,it is my opinion that :
The scents are first rate quality. That is consistent.
The citrus lasts to dry down .That is consistent too .
The scents are quite tenacious .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 14th April 2010 at 06:50 AM.
I hope that my last post didn't give the impression that I thought you were being untruthful with your reviews, or anything of the sort. I was just engaging in a long-winded, self-directed soliloquy. Sometimes I just like to ramble.
I have also been aware that people may not take my reviews too seriously because I was given the whole set of samples ,so I must give good reviews. No ,I like to do things fair and square so each fragrance got two samplings - sometimes three . I sniffed and re sniffed.
Honestly, I always expect not to like something - because you can't like or love everything.I ,myself ,am surprised I have not found a single one I disliked.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 14th April 2010 at 06:59 AM.
I'm hoping that Cairo sent some of the women's scents along. My g/f is a new and budding perfumista (she's always liked scents but I've pushed her to the dark side! ) and she tends to be more brutal than I on scents. She's not interested in breaking them down into notes and things like that but takes a much more holistic and emotional approach. She also has the best associations, such as: Grain De Plaisir (under the cap) smells like crayons, the opening of M. Micallef Aoud smells like yeasty beer while White Sea's opening smells like 'nail polish remover' (wish she wouldn't have said that as now I pick up on that!) , Les Nez Let Me Play the Lion smells like the inside of the closet she had while growing up, etc.
I'll include her opinions too. They are a nice and more direct take on things than my approach.
Anyhow, I'm not sure I want to enjoy them as much as you have, Mysticknot. I'm still craving a number of Amouage scents that I can't afford... throw Xerjoff into the mix and I'll be living on ramen noodles for the next few years!
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 14th April 2010 at 07:07 AM.
For Iris - IRISSs is to die for .
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 14th April 2010 at 07:14 AM.
I popped the full set of samples in the mail now to actiasluna . Knit_at_nite has also received a sample set from cairomerta -so we have lots of great reviews to read soon.
Cairomerta sent me a set of 10 ladies fragrances -- 5 Shooting Stars, 3 out of 17/17 line and 2 Casamorati. I tried not to read your reviews to keep the independence of opinions, but tested two of them already -- Elle (17/17) -- a fruity floriental with a very nice opening and middle parts and Fiore d'Ulivo (Casamorati) -- L'Artisan-esque but better, drooling already and more to come.
The next person after me -- to test this set of 10 samples -- will be ComDiva (but she does not know about it yet) and Evangeline (I think she was hoping to be next after us, or were you not? :-) ).
Edit: Sorry, E., I have misspelled your name.
Last edited by Twolf; 16th April 2010 at 03:39 AM.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 16th April 2010 at 03:31 AM.
How hard it is to be objective and honest when you know it is well beyond your means? Or, better, badly beyond your means.
Shooting Stars today. The rest -- tomorrow.
Ibitira -- exceptional and holy matrimony of grown up and sad irises with crisp and juicy pink roses. The fragrance that was missing on the market and in history, in general. Smooth composition, languid, lasts good 7-8 hours on me. A bit of non-sweet citruces in the beginning but with woody undertones nevertheless. Addictive base of cedar and vetiver. Morphing, constantly changing, dynamic scent. 5*****.
Shingl -- aromatic, semi-oriental herbal-floral with soft and cuddly drydown. Davana and basil (unusual, right?) notes give it depth and interesting dimension in the beginning while aniseed -- different from that in Lolita Lempicka, less sweet -- keeps the whole composition grounded and rounded. The usual, predictable middle. Tasty and somewhat mossy-woody drydown with soft patchouli, sweet vetiver and slightly bitter rhum. Not very original except that green-maroon start. Lasting power -- 4 to 5 hours. (For the similar feel, but better longevity and more pronounced woody-mossy ending, try Aubusson Histoire d'Amour). 3***.
Lua -- floriental, smelling of sweet nothings. Iris--rose--pink peppercorns--vanilla. Slightly citrucy, even less green at the beginning -- like many representatives of this genre. Summery and light. Sort of SL Chergui meets Nina Ricci Coeur Joie -- both do absolutely nothing for me, generic, regrettably forgettable. 2**.
Esquel -- fougere for women (halleluja, somebody somewhere has heard our prayers!) -- starts with a sharp, green and citrucy note that reminds me of a Dragon, skin shining in the sun, fires coming out of the mouth, ready for action. The citrus is vibrating and promising (lemon-orange), just like the reptile's tongues. Then lavender and pepper emerge to last only about 2 hours. After that the whole fragrance turns into a tad spicy green powder with shades of burnt incense, so reminiscent of sweet chalk, or Necco candy coming in a roll and tasting like chalk anyway. What happened to the Dragon I do not know -- I guess he ran away as scared by the lavender. The whole scent can be described as "distant". No comparison to Jicky, nonono. The very distant relative might be Joubert Blue Waltz. 2**.
Dhajala -- semi-oriental with an unusual galbanum start and resinous, incensy vanillic drydown. You found and quietly love Hermes Ambre Narguile. You have also tried and liked their Vetiver Tonka, but both seem too weak and not worth $250 per bottle. You regret the fact that Escada has discontinued Escada Collection which was too sweet for your absolute and undeniable liking. Look no further, Dhajala is godsent for you. In a blind test I would have said "Parfumerie Generale" for the tactful and delicate treatment of amber-woody notes in the drydown. Very smooth, languorous even, like liquid metal. And now ready? All that on a green melancholic background of leaves and herbs. Outstandingly good. 4****.
Has anyone who has tried Fiore d'Ulivo also tried Francis Kurkdjian's Cologne Acqua Universalis? I find them to share a number of similarities (ok, very similar, in fact), with FdU being everso slightly rounder and smoother and with the synthetic soapy laundry musk (cashmeran + a light lemon musk note?) toned down. In other words, I find it to be higher quality than Acqua Universalis, and seemingly just as versatile, although slightly more feminine. Even so, I'd think a man could wear it easily.
More detailed thoughts after I give it a full wearing.
Last edited by SculptureOfSoul; 21st April 2010 at 01:52 AM.
SOS and Twolf- thanks for the great reviews. I enjoyed reading them . I did love Ibitira and Dhajala.
Great reviews twolf! That's what I like about fragrances so much. There is something out there for everyone. It is so personal as to what someone really enjoys. I look forward to the rest of your reviews tomorrow.
Last edited by cairomerta; 21st April 2010 at 03:40 PM.
Gosh Twolf - you have a way of making even the ones you don't rank highly sound interesting enough to seek out! Excellent reviews - very clear, very thoughtful, no bs. I'm also very eager to read your impressions of the others.
Last edited by Evangeline; 21st April 2010 at 01:56 PM.
Thank YOU, guys, for listening. Very often I read many reviews here in the forums and in the Directory and still am puzzled as to what the fragrances smell like, so I am trying to answer this question, first and foremost.
I am also wondering who were the other 4 women and 5 men who got samples from cairomerta? And why are they not writing anything? And if the leftover samples have been spoken about -- since they were free, it is only fair that the sample recipients should do something to pay back for cairomerta's enthusiasm and efforts, as well as spreading the buzz, he is trying to make it his business. Please?
Casamorati today. My understanding is that XerJoff found the older fragrances, sniffed them, fell in love and decided to relaunch them using modern ingredients and available technologies, trying to recreate the original formulas. My both samples carry the name Casamorati (since 1888) on top and XerJoff on the bottom, they also show that these are in Eau de Parfum strengths.
Fiore d'Ulivo -- floral Eau de Cologne despite the words on the packaging, in the most traditional style (which is far from being too exciting!) -- simple, natural, summery, optimistic, makes one feel clean, cool and refreshed -- that's what the whole genre is about -- and with the mostly traditional components used:
-- citrus (lemon, lime);
-- florals (jasmine, magnolia, lotus and olive blossom);
-- amber, woods, musk.
Hold your horses, though. I am not a fan of Eaux -- you have tried one, you have tried them all -- but Creed, Guerlain, Chanel and even Mr.SL now can't all be wrong, 4711 still sells well in Germany, and Colognes are being enjoyed more than ever these days, especially during the dog days of summer. Fiore d'Ulivo has phenomenal tenacity and ultimate projection, very well structured and is certainly pleasant overall. The citruses are light, bright, sun-drenched, and not so very green (no sharpness, bite or zing), the florals are aquatic, transparent but linguering. Olive blossom is a totally different story, as a note it begs for wider use in perfumery (I thought), I recall it as an element of older classic Guerlains, however they pair it with brusque bergamot, perky petitgrain and green verbena. Here olive blossom is persistent -- somewhat sweet, smells slightly oily but more on a herbal side, a bit peachy-honeyed even. Upon settling it shows different tonality: gentle but never soapy base -- a tad of amber, a bit of cedarwood, a smidgen of musk -- still optimistic, citrucy and sweet. Not very unique, but BEST among the equals. 4****+.
Wow - four stars is quite wonderful! I was hoping you'd have something good to say about Fiore d'Ulivo as that's the one I've been most hopeful about. The best among the olive blossoms is something I need to smell!
Got my samples from Mysticknot the other day and am waiting for my sinuses to give over before testing 'em. (with pollen counts high, I may have to just go for it.)... so you'll be hearing from me on the scents in the next few! ... and I have another tester waiting for me to pass them on to them. So just hold on, the reviews are coming! <smiles>
Bouquet Ideale -- oriental-woody. Once again, it is not my style and I do not want to smell like this on a regular basis, but I would like to keep some of it on hand when everybody is done and there are some leftovers erm... left over.
If you are looking for a gentle, romantic and delicate fragrance -- steer clear, please. I was thinking about this fragrance for three days and I still fail to find exact words to describe it. In any relationship winks, smiles and foreplays are important. In Bouquet they are non-existant. Animalic lust of musk and intolerably beautiful femininity of vanilla keep me sniffing my wrist. My sample box smells of it and I suspect, will be smelling of it long after I send it on to another person, so if we are speaking about longevity -- it is days, not hours (wet chores included).
It starts with a sharp and tart woody note I first thought was a combination of pomegranate and cedar, tantalizingly delectable and statement making in its unpleasantness. On second application, I got a different aspect of that wood -- more acidic than cedar, without dryness and pencil shavings, still thick and heavy to a degree -- and upon reading the notes I figured out it is what they call "papyrus"; and a different aspect of fruit -- it is still red, but now I was thinking more of cranberries covered in confectioners' sugar from lilamand.com (I will check the name of the Website and edit my message, if need be), powdery and light. With this contrast, the florals come into the foreground -- where Ms.MK feels rose and iris, I smell jasmine, honeysuckle, magnolia and maybe, some sort of spicy rose (saffron? ginger? allspice?), all surrounded by a cloud of vanilla. The floral components are not pushy, they are assigned supporting positions, but they are not making the fragrance go sideways into the totally floral territory. neither are the spices -- they are there, but their purpose is to introduce vanilla. Now, how much vanilla and what type? It is lightweight and almost edible, but it does not go gourmand, like in Hanae Mori or Keiko Mecheri Loukhoum. It is not straightforward and broody like Profumum likes them. It acquires incensy and somewhat smokey undertone in the process of wear, but never goes dark or overbearing (like in Shalimar). Instead, it is now that musk and mellow soft cashmeran joins it -- and many of you know that I do not "do" musks -- and together they penetrate every pore of the skin and every cell of my brain, leaving me mesmerized and craving for more.
Bouquet Ideale is constantly changing, never screaming and saying volumes. Sweet dirty bits.
XerJoff 17/17 today, the sample says they are in parfum/high concentration (75% volume) and the cardboard they are attached to contains the description of the fragrances in both English and Russian, both with spelling errors.
Irisss -- good quality iris on the base of benzoin and frankincense, quite simple and cozy. There is nothing really much to say about this, there are green irises, musky and rooty irises, sweet and luminous irises, gourmand powdery irises, citrucy irises and many more varieties on the market, only the lazy one have not come up with some sort of irises in the recent 7-8 years. I like irises in general and can find creamier, woodier, warmer/cooler irises -- depending on the mood -- elsewhere. 2**
XXY -- the description says it is woody and ambery and I do not find it very accurate: it is more of a floriental with fruity accents to my nose. Peach, sweet synthetic patchouli, ylang-ylang, other flowers, vetiver, a bit of amber. It is contemporary in execution and relatively pleasant overall. It dries down to sweet dry woods with vanillic undertones. The whole fragrance seems lacking both shape and depth, can be used as an accord to build other frangrances upon. 3***.
Elle -- once again, I politely disagree with its description as "floral", it is a perfect example of a fruity floral fragrance, because fruit and not flowers play the decisive role in Elle's perception. Simple composition again, berries -- jasmine -- musk with sparks of leather-patchouli and benzoin-opoponax (tonkiphora balm). My favorite part of it is its opening, and I wrote "berries" because of its fruity essence, but in fact it is more than one note and find it rather delectable. The closest it comes to is quince jam -- google "quince" if you do not know your aiwa -- producing the same effect as Garcon Manque by Des Filles a la Vanille. For another delightful -- and cheap! -- fragrance with quince, please PM me. 3***-.
Last edited by Twolf; 22nd April 2010 at 11:22 AM.
Your description has me practically drooling over Bouquet Ideale, yet I'm strangely intimidated at the same time. But that sounds like a vanilla that even I can find attractive. Elle sounds good to me also - again, your way of describing fragrances makes me keenly interested to sniff even the ones you don't particularly care for.
I'm enjoying this immensely - that's all of them though, right?
Good point, scent, and salam and shukram.
Yes, Ms.E., this was all, all ten of them. I wrote to ComDiva a week ago -- she is a long-standing BNer and it was her Wardrobe where I saw the first mentioning of XerJoff, so I thought she might want to sniff them all now that we have a chance (once in a lifetime chance, perhaps?) -- but I have not heard from her yet. People from Boston MA and surrounding area, please call her and tell her there is PM waiting for her, if you would kindly?
Thank you cairomerta for making it possible. You guys please leave him positive iTrader feedback once you receive his samples, it is a request.