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  1. #61

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Thank you for the review, Sorcery! The notion of the gentleman thief stealing from the wallets of perfumistas was mentioned in Perfume Shrine, which referenced our BN members.

    The "judge for yourself" tone of the article intrigues me all the more.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  2. #62
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Tomorrow is the day they are expecting the tester or samples at the Guerlain counter at San Francisco Neiman's. The new French SA there (who replaced my lamented Josie, now far away in Honolulu) promised to call me the moment they came in. This is her first test. Let's see if she is faithful...

    I hope they are on time, and I hope she calls. Both of these sound interesting to me. I think Le Dandy is more my style, but I'm not ruling out Le Voyou. Let's see if Guerlain still has what it takes to come up with convincing masculine scents...

    Th actual items go on sale October 1, according to the latest intelligence I had a couple of weeks ago.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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    —Seneca

  3. #63
    Basenotes Junkie Matthew's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Looking forward to your thoughts on them, JaimeB!

  4. #64

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Thank you, JaimeB. The marvelous SAs at the boutique in Las Vegas said, "any day now."

    So far for me, they have come through with samples.

    I, too, am more interested in Le Dandy. The name alone intrigues me (OK, stop all the ribbing!) but I also like leather florals.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  5. #65
    Gojira's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Primrose.

    You made my day. I will be in Vegas Sept.10th and was hoping I could sample them. Palazzo will be my first stop.

    Cheers!
    Scents I have that are not in the database.

    Amouage Molook Attar
    Full Incense - Montale
    Oudh Lacquer by Soivohle
    Shalimar Ode de la Vanille by Guerlain
    Mukhalat Makaki Perfume Oil by Swiss Arabian
    Man Amber by Halston
    Absolue pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
    Puro Intense by Nejma

  6. #66

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by Gojira View Post
    Primrose.

    You made my day. I will be in Vegas Sept.10th and was hoping I could sample them. Palazzo will be my first stop.

    Cheers!
    Do report back and share. I would like all testers chiming in with their impressions of these two.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  7. #67

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I understand that the U.S. release of these is now pushed back to November. No date available.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  8. #68
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I was at the Guerlain boutique at San Francisco Neiman's today. One of the sales reps told me that the release date in the States was pushed back to December 6, but then Guerlain's regional manager appeared and said they would be in at the New Jersey facility November 1, but that they would go from there to Neiman's Dallas hub, and thence to other Neiman's, putting it in San Francisco around November 15, adding "before Thanksgiving."

    All hearsay, I might add, and Guerlain's delivery dates are often slightly delayed, so don't bet any money on this. You'll need that cash to buy them: Arsène Lupin Le Dandy (the Dandy) and Le Voyou (the Rogue). Current talk is that the price will be about $230 each.

    Testers (but not samples) are already there, and have been since last Saturday.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

    My Wardrobe
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    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

    Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus

    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  9. #69

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Finally released here in Paris ... I tried Dandy but I need another try to tell ; what I can say is that it's typically Jean Paul Guerlain's style

  10. #70

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Funny, when I tried it (three times while in Paris), I thought to myself that Jean-Paul Guerlain this time had left the saturated, rasped style that I normally connect with him (think Habit Rouge or Héritage, basically all his perfumes) and succumbed to the L'Art et la Matière "niche" style. Especially Dandy smelled much more chic and sophisticated (can be a good thing, but not necessarily) than his earlier works to me.

    Quote Originally Posted by germanomio View Post
    I tried Dandy but I need another try to tell ; what I can say is that it's typically Jean Paul Guerlain's style

  11. #71

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Thank you all for the updates. I am now thoroughly interested in trying these!
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  12. #72

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    When I wrote that it was typically JPG's style I thought to Coriolan or Chamade pour homme rather than to HR or Derby or Heritage And you are right Ulrike, Dandy is well in the niche style of L'Art et la Matière; Dandy and Voyou are "exclusive"

    I tried Dandy twice and I clearly perceived a connection with Mitsouko; it's very well crafted, rather light for an Eau de Parfum concentration; the head is a little bit sharp and bitter (don't what kind of notes it is); it evolves quite slowly to a violet note surrounded by leather (suedine ?) and gives a mitsouko like impression; the drydown is soft leather and quite fresh (mint ?)

    Voyou was a kind of disappointment to me : it's very "modern" and complicated (in comparison with Dandy)

  13. #73
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by germanomio View Post
    Voyou was a kind of disappointment to me : it's very "modern" and complicated (in comparison with Dandy)
    Oooooooo! Something for everybody in fragrance tonight!
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  14. #74
    StylinLA's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Happy to see the updates...bummed it could be a ways off. Kind of longing to try Dandy.

  15. #75
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    So, those of you that have seen the bottles in person...how do these 'He Wood'-esque bottles look?

  16. #76

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So, those of you that have seen the bottles in person...how do these 'He Wood'-esque bottles look?
    In answer to your question Mike, by Guerlain's high design standards, a bit trashy. After spending a few days with Dandy, I have to say it is nice enough, the quality is there, the bitter opening accord is beautiful, but the base seems to be loaded with something like prunol and lots of vetiver making it another fruity and green fragrance, bringing to mind L'Instant. This one is no Derby, that's for sure.

  17. #77

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    In answer to your question Mike, by Guerlain's high design standards, a bit trashy. After spending a few days with Dandy, I have to say it is nice enough, the quality is there, the bitter opening accord is beautiful, but the base seems to be loaded with something like prunol and lots of vetiver making it another fruity and green fragrance, bringing to mind L'Instant. This one is no Derby, that's for sure.
    What a let-down! Thank you, Kevin, for the review. I agree that the bottle is waaay to contemporary for an inspiration such as Arsene Lupin, which deserves a fin-de-siecle glass bottle. I would much rather have had another bee bottle.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  18. #78

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I have a hope the bottles will look great in real life - my two ones are coming in about a week. But your impressions don't sound too promising though. For the fragrance (both actually): I already have accepted that they are not the old rasped Jean-Paul Guerlain style but more "chic" and "niche" - and I remember the Dandy drydown as quite special. Like germanomio said, I also remember them as too light for my usual Guerlain taste... :-( Strange, all of a sudden, after the good ol 80s, everything has to be subtle?!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Guyer View Post
    In answer to your question Mike, by Guerlain's high design standards, a bit trashy. After spending a few days with Dandy, I have to say it is nice enough, the quality is there, the bitter opening accord is beautiful, but the base seems to be loaded with something like prunol and lots of vetiver making it another fruity and green fragrance, bringing to mind L'Instant. This one is no Derby, that's for sure.

  19. #79
    rickbr's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post
    I have a hope the bottles will look great in real life - my two ones are coming in about a week. But your impressions don't sound too promising though. For the fragrance (both actually): I already have accepted that they are not the old rasped Jean-Paul Guerlain style but more "chic" and "niche" - and I remember the Dandy drydown as quite special. Like germanomio said, I also remember them as too light for my usual Guerlain taste... :-( Strange, all of a sudden, after the good ol 80s, everything has to be subtle?!!
    I have an impression that maybe Jean Paul Guerlain cannot fully develop his style in the old way with all the IFRA restrictions on important materials, like oakmoss, which is a key note in his Derby creation

  20. #80
    gido's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    who wants to spend that amount of money on such ugly bottles?
    then again, if they are up there with guerlains best..

  21. #81

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I got my bottles now. Agree: Not the most successful design from Guerlain. The wooden frames are a bit clumsily made. What a shame, and so unlike that old dignified house. I've only tried on the Dandy yet. As advertised, it's a Chamade pour Homme with both a slightly greener violet top (makes me sort of think of Sous le Vent for the first 10 minutes) and a drier more leathery drydown. The heart is quite soapy, like old-fashioned barber shop soap.

    Wears VERY close to the skin. (Is this a new chic trend? Or due the IFRA? I miss old-school saturation.)

  22. #82

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. G View Post
    The wooden frames are a bit clumsily made. What a shame, and so unlike that old dignified house.
    The wood used in the frames is very light weight and of poor quality, I guess it needs to be this way in order to keep the shipping costs down. If one chooses to frame something wonderful, then why make a cheap frame? I own a lot of art work and I would never, ever use a cheap frame. I never understood the point of using wood, plastic, leather, feathers, beads, chains, etc. as part of a fragrance's bottle design. If glass isn't good enough, than use crystal and sterling!

  23. #83

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Kevin, I agree. If someone spends that much on a scent--an exclusive Guerlain--why the ultra-tacky bottle? What a real shame. As much as I adore the name of "Le Dandy," the bottle might turn me away. When I spend that much for a scent, I want something classy. I would adore a cut glass bottle with silver, too.

    I also agree that, like artwork, something refined, rare and a joy to behold (or sniff) deserves something of quality to set it off. Those minimalist wooden bottles do not at all match the fragrance inspiration of Arsene Lupin, an elegant man of fashion. (See the latest version of this film; the costumes are very Belle Epoque-perfect.) This evening, my DH and I went to a Japanese restaurant and they were playing 18th century Baroque music! They had paper lanterns and bamboo screens...and they were playing Vivaldi!

    Mr. Guerlain, thank you for your honesty.

    I am sad that this sits close to the skin. I like some sillage and this may not be to my taste. This might very well break my heart.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  24. #84

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    It's a pity that an un-succeeded bottle design should overshadow the enjoyment of the juice. But it somehow does. For me, this is an example of how important the presentation is. I took a close look on the bottles this morning again, and although I'm sure that the design process behind it was very elaborate and well-meant, the result is not beautiful. The joints of the wooden pieces are not precise, they actually look like something a school kid did. Actually, I'm thinking that these frames are not the cheapest thing to produce, and that Guerlain could have decided on a design that was both prettier and much easier and cheaper to make. I have this idea of just putting a metal plate on instead, a la Les Elixirs Charnels, a gold plate for Danty, silvery for Voyou - and maybe even just 75 ml bottles and then sell them in a beautiful two-bottle box set for 200 Euros.

    It's touching that Guerlain wants to make something new and a bit complicating to make, but the result could have been much more elegant. Tsk, tsk, Guerlain...

  25. #85
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Here is a link to Octavian's review:

    http://1000fragrances.blogspot.com/2....html#comments
    Evenstar

  26. #86

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    All I can say is, "What a let-down." Such a disappointment.

    Thank you, Arwen, for the link.

    Mr. G, I agree that even exquisite juice must come nicely presented. To press the metaphor, even an attractive man or woman with the most brilliant intelligence, kindness of heart, and moral fibre would not be the best presentation if he/she dressed poorly and didn't bathe or comb the hair! The appeal is the entire "package."

    I cannot begin to express my heartache over the bottles.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  27. #87

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I understand Guerlain is having a gala launch and $100 to reserve spaces. This is good toward a Guerlain purchase, however. I think these are in Montreal and New York.

    The release should be very soon.

    http://www.nstperfume.com/2010/10/19...ew-fragrances/
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  28. #88

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I tried both of these, a few days ago, and the bottles are truly horrendous. The wood looks cheap and poorly constructed. As for the fragrances, Arsène Lupin Voyou smells as generic as Guerlain Homme but with a mild leather accord. Arsène Lupin Dandy is a lot better but still failed to compel me to even consider a bottle, as it wasn't as rich as I was expecting.

    With Jean Paul Guerlain now having less opportunities (as well as years) to create new Guerlain perfumes, you would have expected him to have really gone flat-out on these two, but no..

  29. #89

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by Trebor View Post
    I tried both of these, a few days ago, and the bottles are truly horrendous. The wood looks cheap and poorly constructed. As for the fragrances, Arsène Lupin Voyou smells as generic as Guerlain Homme but with a mild leather accord. Arsène Lupin Dandy is a lot better but still failed to compel me to even consider a bottle, as it wasn't as rich as I was expecting.

    With Jean Paul Guerlain now having less opportunities (as well as years) to create new Guerlain perfumes, you would have expected him to have really gone flat-out on these two, but no..
    Thank you, Trebor, for the honest answer. It looks like your observation echoes what eariler posts mentioned on the bottles.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  30. #90

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I've come to like Voyou actually. Yes, it's tonic, but it's much more growing on me than Guerlain Homme was. It's both bitterer, fruity-rosier and more smoky than Homme, plus of a helluva lot better raw material quality. Also the drydown transition is much more exploring and engaging. Sort of Coriolan layered with Bois d'Armenie. Speaking of Coriolan: also found that one "dull" in the beginning, but multiple wearings got me hooked on the tonic-ambery contrast. Don't get any leather from Voyou, personally.

  31. #91
    mr. reasonable's Avatar
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    I tried them both this evening - nothing new to add to what others have already said but . . . first impression, for what it's worth:

    I like the unusual opening of Dandy and it evolves into a very clear leather note. I sprayed my cuff because it seemed light on my wrist, which is just as well - 4 hours later and I can enjoy it on the fabric but it's gone from my wrist. I like it but it seems quite light and airy, close to the skin as Mr.G mentions.

    Voyou seems very, very light and octavians 'unfinished' comment in his review seems pretty apt, frankly. It's not unpleasant but nothing here grabbed me at all. Will try them both some more over the next few days - it takes me three or four wearings at least to get a handle on anything.

    The wood framed bottles do seem amateurish and are a bit uncomfortable to hold.

    Voyou - Take 2 / Oct. 24: I tried a heavier dose at the Guerlain counter today and for the first hour+ the aromatic quality was much more apparent. It took me half an hour then I realised that it was recalling the Amouage Al Andalus Attar, whcih I subsequently confirmed when I got home. (Al Andalus has been compared with Platinum Egoiste by some, BTW, altho Al Andalus and Voyou do not have the slightly metallic synth aspect I find in PE). Four hours later and it is a very pleasant but also very light skin scent, natural but subtle. Starts well but then doesn't really go anywhere, frankly. Not really my style but I can see this being very popular with fans of the more 'aromatic fougere' side of things. Probably the more commercial of the two mainstream wise.
    Last edited by mr. reasonable; 24th October 2010 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Take 2

  32. #92
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Any idea when these will be available in US Guerlain boutiques?

  33. #93
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Quote Originally Posted by mrclmind View Post
    Any idea when these will be available in US Guerlain boutiques?
    The Guerlain rep at Neiman's San Francisco says they should be in the store around mid-November. If you want to check closer to the time, you can call (415) 362-3900 and ask for the Guerlain boutique.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

    "Why spend life seeking that which does not satisfy? Why remain a slave, when freedom waits? Let your life shine; illumine the world with your truth!"

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    Fiat justitia ruat cælum.

    Let justice be done, even if the sky should fall.

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    Qui nihil potest sperare, desperet nihil.
    Let him who can hope for nothing despair of nothing.

    —Seneca

  34. #94

    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    mrclmind, nice to see you stopping in!

    The boutique at the Palazzo in Las Vegas also says the same thing: mid-November:

    1-866-409-6110.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  35. #95
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    Default Re: Dandies take note: Guerlain to release the Arsene Lupin duo

    Oh no!!!

    I knew it was delayed, because I was expecting decants of these by next week. I did not realize that I have to wait almost a month.
    Evenstar

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