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  1. #1

    Default Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Ever since I started getting really into perfume, I've been hearing rave reviews about Narciso Rodriguez's For Her. It's in the MUA Top 25, got four stars from Luca Turin, and seems to be highly regarded here on Basenotes. But I just. don't. get. it. It's pretty and definitely wearable, but smells really generic to me and I wonder what amazing thing in it everyone else is smelling.

    On the other hand, I've been getting acquainted with Annick Goutal's Ninfeo Mio which is absolutely gorgeous, but I haven't really heard any hype about it since it was released. It smells like pure peach juice to me - sticky, tart, and even a little fuzzy. I want to shout from the rooftops for everyone who likes fruity frags to try it!

    So, what are the fragrances whose hype you just. don't. get? What about the perfumes which deserve more credit?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Well,I don't get the madness for Givenchy Ange ou Demon and its flankers at all(no offense meant to those who enjoy them!).I do think Cabotine de Gres is kind of special but certainly underrated;in Turin's book it received quite a beating!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Try the classics starting with Guerlain and Caron. Don't be aftraid to wander into the "men's" scents, as there are many great scents there, too. I don't perceive scents to have a real gender, as many here can concur.

    Also try 24, Faubourg by Hermes, Boucheron by Boucheron, and First by Van Cleef and Arpels. These have orange blossom, which you might like.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Another really great frag that I haven't heard much about is Sonia Rykiel's Belle en Rykiel. It's fairly inexpensive too, from what I've seen online.

    Notes: Mandarin, Red Currant, Lavender Flower, Heliotrope, Coffee Blossom, Frankincense, Patchouli, Amber, Mahogany, Vanilla.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    I don't understand the hype about Chanel No 5 - Yes, I know it was groundbreaking back then, but to me it is one of the most boring perfumes ever.

    Underrated: Tilleul by d'Orsay and L'Été en Douce" by L'Artisan. I could die for both of those!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    I second the underated status of Tilleul by d'Orsay.



    Quote Originally Posted by Klute View Post
    I don't understand the hype about Chanel No 5 - Yes, I know it was groundbreaking back then, but to me it is one of the most boring perfumes ever.

    Underrated: Tilleul by d'Orsay and L'Été en Douce" by L'Artisan. I could die for both of those!

  7. #7

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Overrated: Armani Code for Women. I cannot understand its appeal at all. Salespeople try to push it on me all time, tell me "it's sexy and men love it". Not the kind of man that I'd want to attract...
    Underrated: Vetyver by L'Occitane. Great, intoxicating vetiver scent. Guerlain's Vetiver is still my favourite, but this was surprisingly good for its price.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Underrated? OK, here we go...
    MADAME ROCHAS: OK, so it's not the most complex fragrance going, but it's just so darn beautiful...clean yet elegant and with an exquisite drydown. I get compliments whenever I wear it. True, it smells like a great bath soap...but it transcends soap. Like Joy is an abstraction of the perfect flower, Madame Rochas is the abstraction of the perfect soap. I feel so elegant when I put it on.

    JARDINS DE BAGATELLE: I think Turin and Sanchez call this "screechy" (I think) and only give it 3 stars. I just put my 13 year old mini of this into an atomizer and ohhhh...I think I need to be alone for a while ! Come on, it's by Jean-Paul Guerlain, the gentleman (demigod?) who gave us Chamade. This reminds me a lot of Chamade, but it is rosier and a little less green. I have a little spray of this on my left wrist and only one word describes it for me...luscious.

    CINNABAR: OK, I know the story of this...EL had this in development before YSL's Opium, but Opium came out first. Opium becomes the icon and Cinnabar the also ran. I love both of them, but Cinnabar is more userfriendly, warmer and it somehow injects a freshness into the Oriental genre that no other Oriental really seems to have. This is definitely undeserving of its second fiddle status both as an Oriental and within the EL line. I ordinarily don't grok to flankers, but I think this one could use a couple just to draw attention to a much better than merely 'solid' product.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Here we go again: it does not really matter what other people think about this or that fragrance, it is all in the nose of the beholder, IMNSHO. The secret is to smell as many as you possibly can and make your own educated decisions.

    Personally, I do not get the hype associated with Narciso Rodriguez at all and then I do not "do" most musks (Miss Tao says "Give it another couple of years"). I smelled and did not fall for Ninfeo Mio -- pleasant, but nothing to rave about.

    Tilleul D'Orsay is very nice indeed, but have you guys tried Provence Sante Tilleul (30R. introduced me to it) or other linden blossom scents on the market?

    Madame Rochas is a masterpiece (Amouage Gold by the same nose Guy Robert, anyone?) but not for everybody.

    My personal favorites -- often looked down upon -- are many, just to mention a few: L'Or de Torrente, Balmain de Balmain, La Perla Prive, Henri Berdoues Violettes de Toulouse and Violettes Divine (let them naysayers point out the synthetic character of the ingredients or overly sweet nature), Hiroko Koshino, Mauboussin de Mauboussin (I can't even imagine what I would do without it in the winter months), Guy Laroche Clandestine, Yves Rocher 8e Jour, Ted Lapidus Creation (it physically pains me that nobody I know even remotely likes it), Hermes Rouge, Jean Desprez Sheherazade, Laura Biagiotti Sotto Voce, Madeleine Vionnet (hard to believe that this whole house is not even in the Directory and I started mentioning this fragrance back in 2005), Lancetti pour Femme (Chanel 28, La Pausa is very close, but came out later and does not have that complexity or longevity), many more.

    Well, there is also a thread at the bottom of this page called "Unsung Treasures" -- it is where our people are pointing out what deserves more attention. And I remember we have also had a thread about the fragrances that everybody seems to enjoy and you do not.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Over / Under-rated Fragrances?

    Both underrated and overrated: Angel. Although it does get some recognition in the perfumista community, it's still widely sneered upon, and as for overrated... well, I really like Angel, a lot, I feel the same deep, forgiving fondness for it that I would for an old passion that has turned into a good friend, but I will say that even I am a little sick of smelling it at this point. Especially early Tuesday mornings, on the tube, in July.

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