chez bond and cool water that knocked off green irish tweed
Every once in while I come across a new creation by an established house of perfume that is a carbon copy of a another creation. Sometimes the copied fragrance is obscure and indie niche, and sometimes it's a well known fragrance. In both the cases, it's beyond the stretches of coincidence. I've known Creed's Original Vetiver to be an 'interpretation' of TM Cologne, and I've known Bond No. 9 to be a tribute to Annick Goutal's citrus fragrances.
Lately, I was gifted a bottle of Bois d’Iris by Van Cleef & Arpels (Collection Extraordinaire), and what a shame... and what unbelievable audacity--this is a direct steal of Dior Bois D'Argent. How can they get away with this?
A few years ago, Goutal sued L'Artisan for a name--Songe, but what about the scent itself?
Last edited by Killer_Vavoom; 12th July 2010 at 05:32 AM.
chez bond and cool water that knocked off green irish tweed
-- Regardless of what Creed says otherwise -- it's widely known among those who should know that Pierre Bourdon (Cool Water, Kouros, Feminite du Bois, etc) also created the accord (Ambroxan, crab apple, dihydromycenol, octin esters) that made Green Irish Tweed what it is. It is also known that he basically just made the whole fragrance. But who cares, someone had an idea, and it worked. In Cool Water, Bourdon just used his own accord to make something more substantial, more satisfying.
Perfumers copy each other all the time, whether it's accords or frameworks of whole fragrances. At one time they thought of setting up a committee to monitor it, but they soon figured out that it would be smarter to give perfumers the freedom they need -- If one perfumer can do a better job than another, then more power to 'em. Someone has to make quality fragrances. One thing leads to another.
Last edited by pluran; 12th July 2010 at 07:25 PM.
Which came first... Green Irish Tweed or Truefitt & Hill Freshman?
Bond No. 9 is becoming the king of this... Bleecker Street, Ralph Lauren Purple Label; Saks for Him, Pal Zileri Concept N.18; Chez Bond, aforesaid list. Among many others...
The price they charge and for it to be a rip... wow.
This dead horse has been kicked to the limits. However, it never seizes to amaze why a company would waste the resources to produce a blatant copy of an existing fragrance. The wise thing to do would be to chose which version suits you best. Thats all you have to do.
Is the juice worth the squeeze?
I'm really grossed out by Unforgivable by Sean John (M.I. knock-off).
Great works are performed, not by strength, but by perseverance.
Creed Himalaya (2002) that knocked off Paca Rabanne XS pour Homme (1993).
"A few years ago, a committee was set up in France to look into the problem of plagiarism in fragrance. A jury composed of professionals and perfume lovers was to decide whether a fragrance was a blatant copy of an existing one, and act as an expert witness in several juicy lawsuits. The idea foundered when it became clear that such a committee would probably reject some of the greatest fragrances ever made: Rive Gauche was an unsweetened Calandre, Dolce Vita the dusky sister of Feminie du Bois, and the list goes on. In each case, however, the copy was arguably better than the original. Perfumery is still a classical art in which, as Charles Colton once put it, imitation is the sincerest flattery. The fact is that perfumes, like species, usually evolve in incremental steps. When cosely related, they can even interbreed to produce rare and splendid hybrids..........."
The article continues by telling a long story about the creation of a great fragrance that used "...the bone structure of Cristalle, the flesh of Diorella, the flattering hue of J'Dore and the radiance of Tommy Girl, and fused them all into a seraphic being we foolishly thought would never come...."
Last edited by pluran; 12th July 2010 at 07:23 AM.
Maybe this is why they say "ignorance is bliss"...?
But seriously, if the copy is indeed better than the original, why not? Good for the consumer, I say. But I have some issues when it comes to companies producing obvious replicas, package them in fancy bottles and then charge customers an arm and a leg for them. Yes, Bond No.9 - I'm looking at you.
i thought bond were ripping off creeds. a well good thing i'm not so interested in both houses. what about that cool water git thing though? it's the same perfumer so who owns the recipe? the company or the nose?
I don't understand the appeal of super-expensive Bond #9 frags that seem very similar to ones that have been around for a long time (and are a lot cheaper). Can someone explain this? Is it that most buyers are unaware?
Last edited by Bigsly; 12th July 2010 at 07:32 PM.
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A&F's Colden blatantly copied CK Euphoria.
I think that big multinationals are responsible for this: a local perfumist has her own version of Terre D'Hermes and it smells almost the same as the original. Even a local company selling eaux in drusgtores sells an eau that has the same notes as Terre D'Hermes in EdC strength. I know both companies buy their essences to Firmenich... so it is Firmenich the company that is actually making possible that those that are not eager to spend USD 140 for a 3.3 fl OZ bottle of Terre D'Hermes can actually spend USD 25 in its knock-off or USD 10 in its EdC-strength knock-off version. Call it "fragrance democracy" if you will.
So, high prices and quality work as a kind of file-compression system of all these benefits to (most) consumers.
Of course, this works in certain contexts, mainly in prosperous economies and in cultures where conspicous consumption is socially approved.
BTW, this reminds me of the "sappeurs".
Last edited by Pollux; 12th July 2010 at 10:43 PM.
As my signature says: All novelty is but oblivion.....
many new things are "refurbished" old formulas that people have forgotten....And, as Luca Turin points out, some new frags are a blessing for bringing to life old discntinued frags, as, for example kenzo Flower.
Appart from that, I believe that similar frags as GIT and CW, are usually similar in their top notes, whith very different mid and bases, where the quality makes a difference.
It is my belief that some perfumers that made masterpieces with low budget, want to recreat their creation with the grandeur of a niche house´s budget!
Many well known perfumers has signature accords, like Nicolai´s candied orange top, or Duchafour transparent incense... Usually we dont complain about similar fragrances within the same house...but when the perfumer acts as a "flying parfumeur" sometimes it happens the same as with flying winemakers: Duchafour or Giacovetti or Ellena are similar to Paul Hobbs or Michel Rolland....we sense the similarities of their different pieces of art....
So, my point is: There are obvious ripp-offs....but sometimes other things are happening
Well, here are some blatant 'flattering homages' I have noticed:
The Ten Party is a total rip-off, I mean offshoot, of PdN New York
Creed Royal Delight smells a LOT like the original formulation of Obsession Men
Tom Ford Italian Cypress smells like Halston Z-14
Tom Ford Arabian Wood smells just like Balmain Ivoire
PG Corps et Ames smells a whole lot like EL Knowing, and I don't mind that at all.
Hillaire reminded me - The Party in Manhattan is a Mitsouko knock off but a damned good one and one I am pleased is there.
Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 13th July 2010 at 01:40 AM.
Xerjoff Oesel and Fleur du Male share more than a few similarities.
Xerjoff Mefisto is pretty close to Creed SMW
Montale Red Vetyver was obviously heavily inspired by Terre d'Hermes.
Iris Pallida 50ml
Ungaro I 75ml
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Said this once and I'm gonna say this again
Chrome is a shameless copy of CKOne
Bod Man Bod Heat seems to have copied Rochas Man. I prefer Bod Man though since it's easier to get and less expensive, it even projects a little more.
I still disagree with CW ripping off GIT, or them even smelling alike. The more I wear them, and the more I think about them, the more I realize the bigger differences. CW is so much darker and more under that Zino Construction, and GIT is so much more of a fresh, bright green and floral mixture. This being another thread all together though. Actually there are other less known fragrances that seem to have attempted shameless rip offs at GIT such as Dunhill Pure.
As for any others though Cuba Gold definitley rips off Le Male, I mention Cuba gold over any of the others that are similar to Le Male, because I think this one does the best job.