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  1. #1

    Default can you shortly define what is modern chypre in perfumery?

    for example,
    Narciso rodriguez for her.
    Notes: Honey Flower, Solar Musk, Orange Blossom, Osmanthus, Amberlyn, Vanilla, Tactile Musk, Tactile Woods, Vetiver.
    There is no moss, bergamot, labdanum, iris, patchouli in the composition.
    It is widely classified as chypre.
    So what is a modern chypre?
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  2. #2
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: can you shortly define what is modern chypre in perfumery?

    Chypre: bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss (older, more sophisticated, seen the world)

    New chypre, modern chypre, pink chypre: they contain more fruity notes like strawberry-passion fruit-lychee, herbal/spicy accents to enliven, mingle (or blur), and the oakmoss and labdanum is replaced by more vetiver and patchouli. They exude a more modern, youthful, girly/boyish air. Generally cleaner, and the true chypre abstraction is usually nowhere to be found.

    Patchouli has never been a part of the basic equation of chypre (bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss), no matter how much you may see patchouli in chypre pyramids. Francois Coty (the man who defined Chypre) talked about it extensively. Chypre is bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss. "The three components smell respectively citrus-resinous, sweet-amber-resinous, and bitter-resinous.... They are equal sectors of the pie chart sticking to each other via the resins...with the fundamental qualities of balance and abstraction."
    Last edited by pluran; 30th July 2010 at 07:11 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: can you shortly define what is modern chypre in perfumery?

    thank you. it was very useful. important accents

    so, ok, what is responsible for Narciso rodriguez for her chyprish nature? vetiver? or maybe the composition, the whole result - deep, sensual, dark perfume?
    Last edited by DreamerII; 15th July 2010 at 03:40 PM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  4. #4
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    Default Re: can you shortly define what is modern chypre in perfumery?

    Gucci by Gucci ( brown bottle - for women ) is a perfect example of a modern chypre with no oakmoss but uses patchouli . ( I know it sounds funny - a chypre with no oakmoss )
    Gucci by Gucci does a good job though, of alluding to being a chypre.
    Last edited by Mimi Gardenia; 15th July 2010 at 04:16 PM.
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/370...o-Profumo-Onda
    For sale. Carnal Flower and Vero Profumo Onda.

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