Chypre: bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss (older, more sophisticated, seen the world)
New chypre, modern chypre, pink chypre: they contain more fruity notes like strawberry-passion fruit-lychee, herbal/spicy accents to enliven, mingle (or blur), and the oakmoss and labdanum is replaced by more vetiver and patchouli. They exude a more modern, youthful, girly/boyish air. Generally cleaner, and the true chypre abstraction is usually nowhere to be found.
Patchouli has never been a part of the basic equation of chypre (bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss), no matter how much you may see patchouli in chypre pyramids. Francois Coty (the man who defined Chypre) talked about it extensively. Chypre is bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss. "The three components smell respectively citrus-resinous, sweet-amber-resinous, and bitter-resinous.... They are equal sectors of the pie chart sticking to each other via the resins...with the fundamental qualities of balance and abstraction."