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Thread: Ambrox DL

  1. #1

    Default Ambrox DL

    Everything I read about ambrox talks about how strong this chemical is, but to me it seems very weak. Am I anosmic? What is your experience with these ambergris molecules, do they seem strong or weak to you.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    Have you tried diluting it and sniffing? Some aromachemicals are so strong that they cause immediate adaptation and you really don't smell anything from the pure stuff. Of course, it's also possible that you're anosmic.
    Website: Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes

  3. #3

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    I find the smell of ambergris to be very subtle, but very distinct. It's perhaps the very fact that it's so hard to describe that makes it so compelling. I'm awaiting the maturation of my ambergris "absolute" to see if more aroma develops.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    I find it pretty subtle at 1%, certainly very close to the skin, but it kind of "blooms" over time, and lasts ages on the skin compared to natural ambergris which seems to disappear within minutes.

    Body heat really seems to amplify this one. If I'm not mistaken it's used in Diptyque Tam Dao (to slightly sickening effect). I tried this out once on my chest and it was only later on in the day after heating up from walking that I noticed myself being enveloped in this "aura" of scent.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    The real benefit comes less from the direct scent than from its impact within a blend: itís main use is as a fixative and diffuser.

    To test this, try making a blend (anything you fancy but donít make it too simple), splitting it in two evenly and adding a little ambrox to one half and the same amount of plain DPG to the other. Leave the two sealed for a few hours while you do something else, then put a drop of each onto a blotter (label them both) and have a sniff of each. Note your impressions - whether you can tell them apart or not and if so what the difference is.

    Now leave the blotters together for 10 minutes, get some fresh air, and repeat. Do the same after 20 mins, 30, 60, 3 hours, 6, 12 and 24. If the sent is still detectable, wait another day and repeat again - continue until you canít smell anything on either blotter.

    Youíll also find that any given fixative will have a bigger effect on some materials than others . . . so using them well is complex, but then thatís half the fun.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    Is there any REAL difference between ambroxan and ambrox DL?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    Ambrox DL is:
    3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-2,4,5,5a,7,8,9,9b-octahydro-1H-benzo[e][1]benzofuran - also called amber naphthofuran or Cetalox.

    Ambroxan is:
    (3aR,5aS,9aS,9bR)-3a,6,6,9a-tetramethyl-2,4,5,5a,7,8,9,9b-octahydro-1H-benzo[e][1]benzofuran - also called amber ether, amberol, ambermox, amberoxide and orcanox.

    You can see from the two full chemical names that they are very similar, but different molecules. Crucially the Ambroxan molecule is chiral which commonly makes quite a big difference to the olfactory performance, but makes them more expensive to produce.

    One of the reasons natural products are often more interesting is that most natural aromatic molecules are chiral - usually l = laevo or left-handed, while many synthetics are either a mix of the l and d (dextro or right handed) isomers or just d.
    Chris Bartlett
    Perfumes from the edge . . .
    Twitter: @PellWallPerfume

    If you are looking for a perfumery consultation Iím happy to quote: if you want free advice, thatís what these forums are for
    You can also join my blog if you wish to ask questions of me.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Ambrox DL

    Ambroxan is a very diffusive, powerful, dry, powdery note. Very effective in small quantities (not so good in larger ones; too dry and animalic).
    I always thought Cetalox and Ambrox DL are two different products (in fact I remember diffusion/volume diagrams I saw somewhere with the two having distinctively different ways of "announcing" themselves) but a casual survey proves they are just synonyms as Chris says (a bit of clarification on this is welcomed).
    In any case Princeok, keep in mind that compared to ambroxan, cetalox can be used in larger quantities without damaging the composition (in fact it makes it more substantial), it is a more complex odour and it requires more time to reach its olfactory "peak".
    "I have the sun in my pocket"

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