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  1. #1

    Default Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Navegar is a fragrance that I have recently rediscovered. It has a salty cedar note against anise. Not much sweetness, but it pushes back against the salty aspect in a nice way.

    Red Vetyver from Montale feels hot and cold almost simultaneously during the top of this fragrance. Pepper and Grapefruit hold each other at bay.

    I am interested to hear recommendations you may have of other fragrances that give you a Salty yet sweet, or hot yet cold feeling during their evolution.


    Thanks

  2. #2
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    KenzoAir by Kenzo - salty vetiver and anise, perhaps too close to Navegar (?)
    Elixir des Merveilles by Hermes - chocolate and orange with salty ambergris
    Nicolai Pour Homme by Parfums de Nicolai - mint and galbanum and lavender and amber...this is the epitome of hold/cold and Ms. Nicolai does this particular texture very well IMO

    I'm sure there's loads more, but those are the ones that pop in my mind.

  3. #3
    sarıpatates's Avatar
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    kenzo air and xeryus rouge comes to my mind first
    oh and encre noire too. it's like a cold fire.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Creed - MI, and Erolfa maybe for salty/sweet.

    Kenzo Air sounds like good. I have never tried it.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    Creed - MI, and Erolfa maybe for salty/sweet.

    Kenzo Air sounds like good. I have never tried it.
    I find it extremely surprising that the 'Vetiver Liaison' for Basenotes has not tried KenzoAir. Please try it, it's very distinctive and the wonky bottle is a bit fun to try and hold while you spray it.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I find it extremely surprising that the 'Vetiver Liaison' for Basenotes has not tried KenzoAir. Please try it, it's very distinctive and the wonky bottle is a bit fun to try and hold while you spray it.
    I am the fake vetiver liason remember? I accuse your Sycomore of smelling off. That is no vetiver liason. I will certainly try it soon. Sounds up my alley for sure.

    Is Elixir des Merveilles unisex in your opinion Mike? You know my fragile psyche on this area. It sounds wonderful.

  7. #7
    sarıpatates's Avatar
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    salty and sweet is I think there whenever there is a quality and pronounced ambergris in the fragrance.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Quote Originally Posted by sarıpatates View Post
    salty and sweet is I think there whenever there is a quality and pronounced ambergris in the fragrance.
    Yes. I think you make a great point with ambergris. Come to think of it, I remember Live Jazz's late drydown smelling of this tug of war.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    I get the "warm/cool" thing from Ocean Rain, Déclaration, Missoni, Citrus Paradisi, and Padme Lotus, and a "salty-yet-sweet" vibe from Eau d'Hermès, Globe, Idole de Lubin, and Vraie Blonde.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Muscari Pour Homme - Salty/Sweet

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Quote Originally Posted by Jock_With_Scents View Post
    Is Elixir des Merveilles unisex in your opinion Mike? You know my fragile psyche on this area. It sounds wonderful.
    Well it doesn't smell feminine, or more specifically when I smell it I don't think 'woman'. However it's very sweet. This one is easy to sample Jock...it's always at Sephora and dept. stores every time I go. The regular Eau des Merveilles will give you an idea about the salty ambergris that forms the base of Elixir des Merveilles, which is basically a gourmand take on the original - so if you don't see the Elixir sample the original one. The 'butchest' is the Parfum des Merveilles, but you'll never see a tester of that out on a counter to smell and it's very pricey..it's a bit more boozy and woody. All three are good. Then there's the newest flanker, Eau Claire des Merveilles...which I mention on another thread...but I think you get my drift.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    How about Lutens Gris Clair for the cold/warm type? I love the way it plays the cool lavender smokiness off the warm ambery tones.

    This is a great topic! I love fragrances that employ skillful contrasts like the ones you describe. I can think of several on the more feminine side for sweet/salty: Gres Cabaret and Hermes Vanille Galante come immediately to mind.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Quote Originally Posted by Haunani View Post
    How about Lutens Gris Clair for the cold/warm type? I love the way it plays the cool lavender smokiness off the warm ambery tones.

    This is a great topic! I love fragrances that employ skillful contrasts like the ones you describe. I can think of several on the more feminine side for sweet/salty: Gres Cabaret and Hermes Vanille Galante come immediately to mind.
    Thanks guys and gals for the suggestions...I have some sampling to do!

    Yes Gris Clair is so cool with lavender/incense, but warm with amber and tonka too. I definitely get your feeling on this one. Good call.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    for some reason, Kenzo doesnt come across as a vetiver scent. however, it's one of the best out there for what it represents.

    hot/salty -
    Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand
    Floris Vetiver

  15. #15

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    I get a couple of interesting dualities with one of my favorites, Reflection Man. To me, it smells cold and yet warm (a spicy peppery note is contrasted against a cold accord of rosemary (camphor), iris, and ylang ylang), wet and yet dry (this one is not simultaneous but changes over time, going from a wet texture early on to a dry texture in the drydown) along with a medicinal/refined contrast.

    Another, somewhat similar fragrance (well, the notes and structure are somewhat similar - I find they smell quite distinct) is Fahrenheit 32, and that definitely has a sweet and salty thing going on. Vanillic sweetness coupled with a salty vetiver note.

    However, given your taste in scents, I'm not so sure you'd really like either of these scents.
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  16. #16
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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    cold/hot Terre D´Hermes
    salty/sweet Arpège pour Homme

  17. #17

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Salty sweaty sweet makes me think of MKK straight away

  18. #18

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Great suggestions, the Merveilles. Ocean Rain is acrid and wet, love it. And yes, saripatates you nailed it with the ambergris call.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Well it doesn't smell feminine, or more specifically when I smell it I don't think 'woman'. However it's very sweet. This one is easy to sample Jock...it's always at Sephora and dept. stores every time I go. The regular Eau des Merveilles will give you an idea about the salty ambergris that forms the base of Elixir des Merveilles, which is basically a gourmand take on the original - so if you don't see the Elixir sample the original one. The 'butchest' is the Parfum des Merveilles, but you'll never see a tester of that out on a counter to smell and it's very pricey..it's a bit more boozy and woody. All three are good. Then there's the newest flanker, Eau Claire des Merveilles...which I mention on another thread...but I think you get my drift.
    Well the reason I have never tried them is because, I assumed they were more feminine and I just passed by them. You know me. I will make it a point to try them soon.

    Salt in fragrance is just so alluring for me. It gives an instant human element to the composition like it came directly from your skin. And when there is a hint of sweetness it amplifies both aspects; hence that olfactory tug of war.

  20. #20

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    Default Re: Salty yet Sweet, Hot yet Cold

    Gres Cabaret and TDC Sel de Vetiver immediately come to mind as salty/sweet.
    Hot/cold actually makes me think of Rive Gauche pour Homme. Also vintage Halston Z-14 and of course Nicolai Pour Homme.

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