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Thread: Chypre ratios?

  1. #1

    Default Chypre ratios?

    Can anyone tell me a standard (or even a general idea) of the ratio of oakmoss to labdanum to bergamot in a chypre, or is it just totally free form?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Chypre ratios?

    Hi, there are many combinations and the best thing is to experiment with small batches and then multiply up when you find the proportions you like:
    say for a samll batch of concentrate (about a ml or so):
    Oakmoss - well I like a lot and personally think its hard to overdo (lets say 0.5ml of 20% dilution)
    Labdanum - not much, odour strength is high (a couple of drops of 20% dilution)
    Bergamot - again to taste - a couple of drops of pure oil or a bit more of dilution
    Patchouli - if you want to use this add a couple of drops of dilution
    The moss is the most voluminous ingredient
    . Fill out the heart with florals, greens etc
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder


  3. #3

    Default Re: Chypre ratios?

    I have been using essential oils and blending, then adding a carrier oil, or alcohol. Are you diluting your oils in a carrier first?
    I obviously am pretty new at doing this with a formula or recipe, usually I just mess around until I'm happy.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Chypre ratios?

    Some people dilute EOs, others don't. Some things, like resins and absolutes, have to be diluted in order to work with them. I agree with HD that it's hard to overdo oakmoss, but the final ratio of basic chypre components and their elaboration is up to you. Your approach of just messing around until you're happy (my approach, too) is probably the most efficient and satisfying way to go. I don't use recipes for cooking, either.
    Website: Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes

  5. #5

    Default Re: Chypre ratios?

    Yes Oakmoss is an absolute and so has to be diluted in alcohol to use. 20% works well. Labdanum is also an absolute so the same reasoning applies, though with its intense odour strength a more dilute version may be useful. Bergamot is an E.O. so no need to dilute. Having some diluted at 20% in addition to pure oil does give more flexibilty with dosing though. There are times when a drop is too much (though rarely with bergamot). Patchouli is a strong EO so dilution makes it easier to use too. A few drops of 20% patch can have a profound effect....

    (above is assuming you are using naturals...I have no experience with aroma chemicals and synthetics, sorry)
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder


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