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  1. #1

    Default Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    I have smelled the 'real' Mysore sandalwood oil (previously I was able to obtain a small sample of it - now it seems pretty much impossible to acquire).

    I currently have ~ 60 ml of Vanuatu Sandalwood (purchased via Eden Botanicals). I also have a couple vials of Rose Geranium and Bergamot essential oils.

    The title says it all. I'm looking for suggestions to create a wonderful cologne with the Vanuatu sandalwood as a base. Any and all input is welcome. If I find a 'magic combo' based on your suggestions, I'll send you a vial in the mail.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    I'm making one like this. It had a nice woodsy start but vanished into baby powder territory a bit too soon, so needs more work. I feel it was the vanilla because I only meant to put two drops in but forgot I hadn't diluted it, so it was too strong. I would appreciate someone elses ideas. These are 10% in fractionated coconut oil so measurements are in drops for a sample.

    31 thai sandalwood, 20 vanilla (way too much as it was meant to be 2), 20 vetivert, 10 Guaicwood, 5 patchouli, 10 cedarwood atlas, 5 oakmoss, 10 rose, 5 carnation, 1 birch tar, 5 black pepper, 6 cabreuva, 4 galbanum, 5 peru balsam, 12 bitter orange, 3 frankincense, 4 ginger, 2 lime

    I have an ancient 1700's recipe for cologne somewhere which uses sandalwood. I shall hunt for it.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    If the sandalwood oil smells really good, I would keep it relatively simple - maybe a drop of oakmoss and a tiny touch of vanilla to add to the base, a touch of rose and/or neroli for the heart and some lemon/bergamot. Personally I would avoid cedar as this can emphasise the off notes in the vanuatu.

    If the santal is not rich/smooth/ even enough to smell great on its own then I would go for a more complex recipe like the one mumsy gave above.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  4. #4

    Default Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    Saichele, I am not sure the Eden's Vanuatu is a good sandalwood oil to base your EdC on, if it's the same as the one I had received from EB (sold it since) it has a very harsh, akrid, sour-ish, almost ammonia-like smell. Perhaps if diluted enough it's more palatable, but my dilution of this oil retained all the unpleasant characteristics. It smells like whoever distilled it cranked up the pressure and the temperature in order to maximize the oil yeild and managed to "cook" the resulting oil in the process of distillation. It is strong, no doubt, but doesn't have much in common with the smooth creamy sweet woodiness the good sandalwood oils possess. Of course, you will have a hard time finding a good Mysore oil for under $130 or so an ounce but it's not impossible.

    Please feel free to discregard my ramblings if the oil you have is not like what I am describing.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    If you want Mysore Sandalwood to be front and centre of the composition, not as a supporting base note, it is easy to screw up a sandalwood composition as it is a very subtle, yet tenacious scent. I stick to vetiver and frankincense as supporting base note (and use lactone to extend the sandalwood), and very transparent middle and top notes, in very small quantities to support and extend the sandalwood. So my experiments have been with concentrate that are half or more of sandalwood!! This is assuming that

    I did one very recently that I have got very good complements on ("wow what are you wearing. Smells EXPENSIVE"....honey it is, but less than that bottle of CK Be you have poured on yourself).

    It is a play between Mysore Sandalwood (4m worth!!) vanilla and lactone base, nutmeg and cinnamon middle, and cardamom and saffron top with hints of holy basil. I added traces of ionone and utrazur to give a bit of zing, and lactone to extend the sandalwood milkiness, but otherwise mostly natural.

    Down about half the bottle in 2 weeks, my wife and I love it so much. Perfectly delicious smelling, and perfectly unisex.

    Try smelling mysore sandalwood soap from india to get some more ideas.

    A classic mysore mix is sandalwood, vetiver and rose with oud to extend the base, and citrus to extend the top (sold to discerning tourists in Mysore perfume shops. Dont buy it there. Very poor quality ingredients. But sniff a sample to get an idea of the composition). You can try playing along with this. I dont like any natural citrus extracts with Sandalwood, but synthetic ones that "float" on top work better, esp if you extend the sandalwood milky note with lactone. I have also had good results by adding Terry Mugler Cologne, or Creed Vetiver to extend the top for this combination (I know it is cheating to mix commercial perfumes into DIY ones, but whatever works!). There is a milky citrus note in these compositions that I cannot isolate (can anyone help?), but is delicious and works best with sandalwood.

    Cheers

  6. #6

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    Default Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    Quote Originally Posted by Igor01 View Post
    Saichele, I am not sure the Eden's Vanuatu is a good sandalwood oil to base your EdC on, if it's the same as the one I had received from EB (sold it since) it has a very harsh, akrid, sour-ish, almost ammonia-like smell. Perhaps if diluted enough it's more palatable, but my dilution of this oil retained all the unpleasant characteristics. It smells like whoever distilled it cranked up the pressure and the temperature in order to maximize the oil yeild and managed to "cook" the resulting oil in the process of distillation. It is strong, no doubt, but doesn't have much in common with the smooth creamy sweet woodiness the good sandalwood oils possess. Of course, you will have a hard time finding a good Mysore oil for under $130 or so an ounce but it's not impossible.

    Please feel free to discregard my ramblings if the oil you have is not like what I am describing.
    I agree with these findings. I fell for the Vanuatu advertisements too. After playing with it for a while, I don't like it much. It does smell acrid and bitter, and is very strong. Diluting it does not change the overall characteristics. It's nothing like Mysore, which to me (at least the sample I have) smells more powdery, generally woody, and has a bit of a turpentine note as well. There are none of the bitter notes in the Mysore sample I have. Actually, I would prefer a synthetic replacement like that from perfumersapprentice over the Vanuatu I bought. In my limited experience, sandalwood smells are widely variable, and none can exactly replace another.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Looking to create the perfect Sandalwood based Eau de Cologne

    Hi
    Good to read your review
    May I say there is new kid on the block who does not care about volume over quality
    All my wood distillations are low pressure and wet steam
    Long distillations but soft ones
    And it shows in our oil
    We are processing this on the island of Erromango where the trees are grown and harvested
    I show the oil to some of the elder women and men here that can still ember big wooden boats arriving to buy the sandalwud for quite ridiculous prices
    When they smell it they smile and say this is the true smell this is our blood
    The royal family of Hawaii tried to take over Erromango for its sandalwood back in the 1800 but they where beaten

    So if you would like to buy sandalwood oil that U.S. from the source and distiller at the origin with love and passion then here we are
    Bloody good spruik that was

    We have now set up our steam distillery on the island of Erromango in vanuatu
    We are producing sandalwood oil and have 500ml and up lots for sale
    Have a look at our website pacific provender
    If you want an ethical product that is produced at the source of the raw material this is it
    I have read a lot of the posts here and agree with many
    For everyone's info I too have smelt some shocking burnt sandalwood oil from here but be assured I have been d signing steam distillation units for over 28 years now and have been distilling wood oils for 20 of those years
    From agar wood, sandalwood blue cypress etc
    My distillation set up relies on hardly any outside inputs mainly due to us having a supply ship every 3 weeks
    Our boiler is wood fired and cooling water is gravity fed
    Anyway if anyone wants to know more please contact me

    We have a farmers association that is keen to grow other crops for perfumery etc
    I have corresponded with Paul In the past
    We have a crop of ginger about to be distiller this coming July

    We can offer co distillation service as well if people are interested
    I am about to co distill sandalwood and aquilaria should ge good wood oud oil

    Have a look at our face book page also and you will see we have gone out there on a limb because we believe in this project
    There are some good videos of our barge we hired delivering our machinery on a beach

    Look forward to being involved in this forum
    Jeff Allen
    Pacific Provender
    Www.pacificprovender.com

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