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  1. #61
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I'm glad someone agrees with me on this - this is exactly the way I felt when I got Cologne du 68. It seems it has made my L' Instant Pour Homme Extreme almost obsolete.
    Woo Hoo! I'm not alone! I sprayed on some 68 before bed last night and I just like it so much better. Maybe it's the addition of flowers and the insistent Geurlain vanilla that's in there filling in the gaps from the topnotes down, but I just think it's a 5-star all the way.

    Today, on the advice of MTGPROX, I'm testing a Dior Homme flanker, Dior Homme Sport.



    Oh, now I see why this isn't one of the ones MTG recommended...

    To get it out of the way, Dior Homme Sport has absolutely nothing at all to do with Dior Homme except the bottle and the name. So I'll judge it on its own merits.

    It kicked off with a bright mix of lemon and calone (which is immediately familiar because that's the basic recipe for the topnotes of Eternity for Men). The lemon was quickly joined by orange, and then neroli. This stage was actually quite nice - refreshing, not stupidly sweet, and perfect for hot weather.

    The heart was that salty herb mix made famous by Acqua di Gio, which I actually kind of like. The problem was the transition. The mix of the sweet citrus and the salty herbs felt kind of fusty and gross. That being said, I think many aquatics smell fusty and gross - if you're a fan of the genre, don't let me put you off. The weird combination actually reminded me remotely of Cool Water (which I hate, but many love).

    The base is that metallic "woody amber" note, which I pretty much hate, but that everyone who wears current designer masculine scents seems to love.

    So there you have it. Dior Homme Sport's influences are painfully transparent and obvious, but they actually kind of pulled it off. Sure, it's scraping the bottom of the lowest common denominator, but it's actually pretty well put together. If you're a fan of ADG, Cool Water, and Eternity, you should probably do yourself a favor and check out Dior Homme Sport. But if you're looking for a lighter take on the original Dior Homme's vanilla iris, you're not going to find that here...
    Last edited by rogalal; 3rd September 2010 at 02:25 AM.
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  2. #62

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Today I'm testing Lubins.
    Right hand is Inedite, left is Itasca.
    they are 2 out of a set of 4 frags newly released that are somewhat meant to benefit from the legacy of lubin, hence resemblance both in style and bottle design but distinct enough to stand alone.
    More Info at the Scented Salamander here.

    I'm not sure whether they are gender labelled but two come off as feminine, two as masculine.

    Itasca:



    Top notes: Neroli, marigold, mandarin, juniper berry and grapefruit.

    Middle notes: Clove, tonka bean, clary sage, nutmeg, geranium flower.

    Base notes: Itasca red pine (pinus resinosa), Java vetiver and Texan cedar, Partak incense, Ethiopian myrrh, amber and Canadian fir balsam.

    This one starts off quite pungent. The citrus/fruity side may be present but it's overruled by neroli, cole and clary sage.
    After a while the sharpness mellows and vetiver and what I assume to be the geranium become prominent factors. This is actually nice enough for me to go ahead and order some geranium frags (a note I have little to no expertise with).
    By now the scent is drifting towards the herbal/aromatic woody base. Pine and fire balsam set the frame, nicely balanced with the rest.

    Overall I'm not immensely impressed but that's probably due to my taste. It's certainly well structured and executed and I very much recommend to try it if you care for vetiver or balsamic scents as this is a combo that works.



    Inedite:



    Top notes: Sicilian mandarin, bergamot, pink peppercorns from Mexico.

    Middle notes: Russian coriander and cinnamon, Javanese cloves, heliotrope and lilac, nectarine, Damask rose and cabbage rose.

    Base notes: Vanilla, iris, patchouli, Kashmir cedar, white musk.


    Wow, what a tough beginning to stand through. Heliotrope and lilac are there right from the start, busted up with some overly sweet citrusses. As the sweetness thats almost candylike fades it becomes more approachable, rose and cinnamon being way better counterparts to the florals than citrus. This scent takes longer to develop than Itasca but I'm looking forward to the base, Iris, Patchouly and cedar promise a heck of a finish.
    Overall however, this is too girly for me and I'm not one to hesitate at gernder labels.
    Smellin good

  3. #63

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    THE GROSSMITH TRIO
    I have looked forward to trying them. Out of the envelope today, here are my short observations (on my skin):
    Shem-el-Nessim
    I have seen this referred to as somewhat close to "L'Heure Bleue" etc. On my skin, I'd say between L'Heure Bleue and Apres L'Ondee. I could not see anise listed as note, though it comes very close to L'Heure Bleue in the first 20 minutes or so. Neither could I see herbal notes listed.
    Phul-Nana and Hasu-no-Hana
    Honestly, if I mixed up the spot I applied them on my arms I could possibly not tell them apart. I definitely get a distinctive patchouli and tonka combo out of both. However, Phul-Nana has geranium (that I smell) and feels a bit "fresher", whereas Hasu-no-Hana feels slightly "warmer". I saw a review wondering whether there was carnation hidden in it and I can see that, too. The tonka in both is out of balance (too prominent) on my skin, I feel.
    All of them have very low sillage and wear and feel like high quality colognes (sorry!). If you are fine with this and don't mind the (nearly) parfum extrait price tag, go ahead! They sure smell very natural, sophisticated and distinctive. I'll get a bottle of Apres L'Ondee at some point instead (same sillage decrease after application), which I enjoy more. Maybe because it does not smell so complex and dense but more romantic and heavenly?

  4. #64

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Two more samples for me today:

    Left hand:

    Frapin ~ Caravelle Epicee



    Notes include Coriander, Nutmeg, Hot pepper, Pepper, Thyme, Gaiac wood, Patchouli, Amber, Tobacco, Sandalwood.



    It starts off salty and creamy to my nose. I get a certain note which I cant really nail down, I also get it from D&Gs The One and my brain keeps saying Coconut but I know it isnt. It might be a wood, quite possibly it's the way the Tobacco is used, as this particular note lingers right down to the drydown.
    (The best description I can think of would actually be a colour, a very smooth beige/baileys).
    I also smell the Sandalwood right away, similiar to what I have smelled as real Sandalwood in Marocco, rather as a spice than as a base note.
    The spices and herbs are also there, the pepper becoming sharper and better after a couple of minutes.
    The heart really is a potpourri of spices, coriander, thyme, nutmeg really reminding me of the suks at the Djeema el Fna in Marrakesh.
    As it glides towards the basenotes it mellows into a soft, creamy wood base thats actually me favourite part overall.

    This is a fragrance I can appreciate for what it is but wouldnt wera it myself as I dont feel quite comfortable with it.


    Right hand:

    Profumi del Forte ~ Versilia Platinum



    Notes include

    top: Bergamotte, Grapefruit, pink and black pepper, rhubarb and myrrh

    heart: geranium, freesia, magnolia, rose and lilly of the valley

    base: Vanilla, oakmoss, incense, cedar wood, vetiver and patchouly


    Whoa, what a mess! Greenish and sour (rather tha citrussy), inducing thought of tomato leaves rather than flowers. The pepper has a nice effect of cooling the whole thing down, which I find quite necessary.
    The heart then leaves me completely clueless as how to describe it.Best reference I can give you are the other PdF scents.
    The drydown had me biting my nails, I knew this scent, i KNEW it, yet I couldnt make up my mind until it hit me -
    it Jubilation XXV.
    The same fine, sophisticated use of Incense, backed up with vanilla, woods etc. but it's greener than XXV.
    I might add that I suspect this to contain quite a bit of Iso E super but since I'm 3/4 anosmic to it and haven't spent enough time on it, go figure.

    Overall I dont really like it. So messed up that I cant even really tell "what" this is, and I dont care for the Big Picture either.

    So I realize I have to spend more time on individual flowers in order to train my nose and to finally get myself some pure Iso E Super, for same purposes.
    Smellin good

  5. #65
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Thanks for the cool reviews, guys! I've been curious, especially about those Lubins. And I've never even heard of Profumi Del Forte...

    Today I’m wearing Versailles Pour Homme by Jean Desprez.



    Often mentioned along with Patou Pour Homme Prive as an amazing lost classic, I’m glad I got the chance to check this out.

    Versailles is a pretty confusing scent. It’s definitely a classic masculine woody chypre. I find that many of this genre tend to smell similar, but this manages to avoid smelling like an Equipage or Derby clone. The note list is enormous, and everything melts together into a distinctive whole as opposed to modern scents where each note tends to be given its own place. This makes it feel kind of linear, even though it’s definitely going through phases.

    The top is sweet and woody. Out of the vial, I got a hit of aldehydic pineapple, but the fruit almost immediately burned off, leaving wood and aldehydes, with a bit of lemony spices. Versailles was much more woody than other classic wood scents I’ve smelled, which mostly smell like chypre elements with some hawthorn. That being said, this still didn’t smell like modern woody scents, either. This wasn’t cedar or the smell of trees in a forest. Instead, it was the smell of plywood or particle board – mixed woods cut with plastics and shellacked (this is thanks to the aldehydes and actually doesn’t smell bad – just not very natural).

    Given time, some sage became noticeable, leading to galbanum and the chypre base. But this happens behind the lemony spicy aldehydic wood, which stays the focus of Versailles for most of its life. By the late afternoon, there’s a resinous leather feel, but that plywood keeps going.

    As if I’m not being wordy enough already, it’s time for a weird tangent…

    Have you ever seen Frank Lloyd Wright’s home interiors? I toured one when I was younger and I clearly remember being struck by how it was beautifully designed but I couldn’t imagine living there. Everything was burnished wood. All the furniture was built in, with tiny desks jutting from the walls and hard, angular chairs and benches. The space was dark and rode a line between futurism and naturalism. Everything from the walls to the built-in furniture was the same wood, polished and curved to the point of resembling something molded from plastic. As high design, it was brilliant, but, even as an adolescent, I questioned the actual functionality of it as a living space. It was classic and artistic, but its specific brand of modernism fused with luxury was very dated (not necessarily in a bad way, but simultaneously not necessarily in a good way, either).

    This is what Versaille Pour Homme kept making me think of. The aldehydes give it a feel of retro-furturism, while the woods hint at a naturalism which would become popular in later niche scents. But the combination of the two is very conspicuously not of this time, and isn’t necessarily comfortable, much like Wright’s beautiful but hard and angular furniture. Versailles also exudes a specific kind of luxury that has long since passed. It’s clearly from a time when synthetics were luxurious in their rarity as opposed to ubiquitous and cheap. It exudes a self-importance that today’s scents simply don’t – Now, perfumes mostly sell a name, while Versailles is selling a very specific moneyed artistic experience, which is quite brilliant, but the fact that it actually has a specific personality means that it’s not going to be compatible with everyone out there.

    In summary, I’ve enjoyed spending a nice, warm day in Versailles Pour Homme, but I’m not 100% comfortable here. If you enjoy classic woody masculine chypres, this may be heaven-sent. And I’d suggest giving it a sampling in the same way that I think everyone has to try vintage Mitsouko. I’m glad to have had this opportunity (with many thanks to a generous BNer!).
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  6. #66

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Kenzo Homme Boise
    Acqua di Parma - Colonia Essenza
    Bvlgari Man

  7. #67

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Just a quick note... I eventually had the chance to sample PG's Cuir d'Iris. I am a bit disappointed. This is not really a leather to me. It is an "orris leather" with a patchouli heart. It also shares a bit the feel of Mark Buxton's Hot Leather, which is, I admit, "vulgar" compared to PG. I confess, when in the mood, I'd go for the vulgar.

  8. #68
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    Just a quick note... I eventually had the chance to sample PG's Cuir d'Iris.... It is an "orris leather"
    Sits up, intrigued...

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    ...with a patchouli heart.
    Doh! Lost me...

    Today I'm wearing Giorgio Beverly Hills Red for Men.



    I remember the huge push when this first came out. I managed to wear it for a couple of months using only the fold-out paper samples that came in magazines and department store ads (I was a college freshman with NO money - you know you all did it at some point, too...). At the time, I thought Red for Men was class personified and I dreamed of owning a bottle - it seemed so fancy and mature. Naturally, I had to track down a vintage sample and give it a try with a more experienced nose...

    It kicked off like a pretty standard masculine woody chypre, with a combination of lemon verbena and hawthorn, brightened by lavender. Within a few minutes, everything got weird. It smelled like melted wax. My mother used to make candles, and I distinctly remember the smell of her melting unscented wax on the stove - that mix of hot wax and the slightly burnt odor of the old pan being heated up. If forced to pick out the notes, I'd guess that the hot wax smell came as a result of a strange mix of lavender and eucalyptus, while the verbena kept going alongside it.

    The waxy smell took hours to go away, as the lavender slowly burned off and the eucalyptus became more prominent. All the while, the whole thing kept getting more and more leathery, but with a weird sweat smell. By the base, Red for Men smelled like a men's locker room crowded with sweaty men (it's not that cumin armpit sweat, but a more general sweat smell) mixed with a new leather jacket. Sniffed closely, I could smell the traditional chypre base in the background, but the most prominent smell in the base was definintely the sweaty leather.

    So, after all these years, that's Red for Men. It makes sense in the same way as Drakkar Noir or other weird 80's masculines (this is very much a product of the 80's despite technically being released in 1991). It's kind of dated by its woody chypre structure, but I could see some weird niche company putting out something like this (You too can smell like hot wax night at the gay S&M club!). If you love the classics and don't mind some stank in your powerfrags, you may very well love Red for Men. Personally, I was amazed how familiar it smelled after all these years, but that alone doesn't warrant a bottle purchase for me, and the sweaty waxy weirdness just isn't what I'm into.
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  9. #69
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Today I've been wearing First by Van Cleef & Arpels.



    First kicked off with that classic "white flowers" accord, which is generally done with a mix of rose, ylang, and muguet. It was paired with a big blast of aldehydes. Something in there had a sort of red candy smell (the classic aldehydic kind, not the current fruity floral kind). Eventually, a soapy white musk came in, along with some sandalwood to make it creamier. And that's about it.

    In a way, First feels cleaned up compared to the older classics that preceded it (First is from the 70's, while many of the benchmark aldehydic florals - Chanel No 5 and such - are much older). There's a moody sadness, or maybe a spirit of midcentury French ennui that earlier examples have that make them much more interesting than First. It's probably the lack of dark green chypre ingredients, which are conspicuously absent from First, that leaves it feeling pretty, but somehow more superficial than its predecessors. It's like Donna Summer wearing a flower in her hair as a tribute to Billie Holiday. Donna was a fine singer, but she was no Billie Holiday...
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  10. #70
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Catching up, I also recently wore Six Scents Series One #1 - Urban Tropicalia by Alexandre Herchcovitch & Joachim Correll.



    Urban Tropicalia is the fruity floral of the Six Scents Series One lineup. It's based on a mix of tropical fruits - I smell mango and orange and apple, and maybe some cassis and peach, but thankfully no stereotypically tropical coconut. It's a tart smell with hints of green, similar to Byredo's Pulp, but greener, or similar to Escada's Sunset Heat (or even Paris Hilton for Men), but smelling more like fruit and less like a tropical fruit gum.

    Pretty quickly, the tart green note turns out to be that stinky tomato leaf note (like Hilde Soliani's infamous Stecca). The fruit makes the tomato leaf wearable, but the mix makes Urban Tropicalia much more challenging than it's discount store counterparts. Alexandre Herchcovitch and Joachim Correll are aparently Brazilian, so this kind of makes sense. Real tropical fruit can have a sweetness that borders on rot, and this combination of sweet/tart fruit and vegetal grossness feels like an artistic expression of that.

    Urban Tropicalia eventually dries down to a pretty nondescript soapy sweet base, but the fruit stays with it throughout its life, so it's less of a specific base than a long slow fade of the fruits after the tomato leaf runs its course.

    To be honest, I'm not really sure who Urban Tropicalia is aimed at. It's sort of an intelligent fruity floral, but I'm not yet convinced that such a genre is even possible. It's difficult to imagine serious perfumistas or niche aficionados going nuts for something so fruity and sweet, and there's really no way the mainstream will ever track down a scent this obscure. I like Six Scents (they do this for charity and encourage experimentation), but I'm not sure Urban Tropicalia is one of their biggest winners. But if you like Byredo's Pulp, but wish it had more funkiness, or wish for a greener version of the tropical mall scents, this may be perfect for you.
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  11. #71

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Fleur Nocturne - Isabey
    I was given additional free samples with my samples order recently and this was one of it. While I admit it is really "feminine" and I would not want to wear it, I have to say that it is as 'nocturnal' as a Doris Day film. Don't expect somebody to tell you how 'classy' you smell. This smells like the universal trash women are wearing when passing by me every day. A garden party with lots of gossipy chit-chat and sweet peach punch with canned sugarsweet peaches and lots of artifical cheap peach cordial seems like an ideal setting. Enjoy ! I saw it claimed to contain quality ingredients... what a waste!
    Narcisse Noir - Caron (current extrait)
    I think I can get an idea here what makes (former) Caron aficionados complain so harshly about the current state of the extraits. Off-Scenter's review in the directory nails it down for me. It definitely starts on a green vibe and while the orange/neroli (I'm not expert enough to tell, though I think it reminds me of neroli essential oil I used to have) is not uninteresting, it is probably not outstanding either. The incense-y layer above everything is greatly done so to my nose. There is just nothing threatening, animalic and killer lady-like to the whole thing. 'Nice' is all I can say.
    Rose Noir - Byredo
    This is a quick one. What crap is this? I can hardly remember smelling something so cheap. I'm not an expert at all in naming synthetic notes, but the predominant in this one smells so familiar from elevators and trains. I have nothing to add and not more time to waste thinking about it. It took me a hell of an effort to get rid of its disgusting smell.
    Rosissimo - Parfums de Rosine
    Quite a nice surprise since fresh green rose is not something that gets me really excited. My instant association was it smells like spending a clear and mild spring day out in the fresh air. A citrusy opening soon meets a green fresh rose (fresh... I see verbena listed). It is later followed by a vague idea of some woods and balms to give it more substance and a touch of warmth. Sorry, the extensive list of basenotes such as leather and moss did not make a distinctive appearance on my skin. Don't expect too much sillage as it soon settled into something like a bit more like skin scent on me. It's pleasant and definitely worth sampling if you are on the look-out for a rose scent.
    Last edited by Larimar; 29th August 2010 at 02:24 PM.

  12. #72
    rogalal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Today I've been wearing the official discontinued grail of Basenotes, Jean Patou Patou Pour Homme Prive.



    I have to admit, I just don't get the appeal...

    Prive kicked of with a burst of lavender, the dirty, almost animalic kind. It's paired with a dark, dank mossy note (right from the top) that made the lavender feel kind of medicinal. I couldn't help but wonder if there were some aldehydes, too, because there was a plasticky brightness that played against the dark green of the mossy notes. In a way, it reminded me of Drakkar Noir's notorious ammonia note.

    Given time, the chypre base elements came through and the gasoline-ish weirdness turned out to be a really harsh, almost leathery burnt pine note played against some sweet green galbanum. Late in the day, that plastic note is still there, but smells more like a big whiff of pure rubbing alcohol. I think it's the leftover lavender reacting with the charred aspect of the pine that makes things feel kind of harsh and medicinal. Admittedly, the mix of moss and galbanum is nice, but you can find that in hundreds of classics, so I'm not sure what the fuss is about.

    If this were still in production, I can't help but think that it would be gathering dust next to the discounted Tsar and that Ceasars Las Vegas cologne at the Burlington Coat Factory. There is absolutely nothing even remotely current about Patou Pour Homme Prive (which probably accounts for at least part of its appeal). Better noses than me have declared it a perfect example of a dying breed, and I'm not one to argue, so I'll accept that, but unless you really love that mix of dirty powerhouse and weird unpleasant 80's Drakkar Noir-esque lavender-meets-synthetics, you can probably skip this one, despite the glowing reviews. With no offense intended to Prive's fans, I just don't think this subgenre of classic scents is one that I'm really in to.
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  13. #73

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Amouage Opus II -

    Ok, I'm not even through a full wearing but I need to write about this. I'll keep it short for now.

    I suppose I can understand how people sniffing this on a card could think it's generic. It's generic in the same sense that Rive Gauch PH is generic - it's.. 'classic.' Actually, this shares a lot in common with the structure of Rive Gauche. (aromatics in the opening, anise note combining with spices and amber to create a 'shaving cream' accord [although it is less pronounced here]), and more, which I'll detail in my extended write up after a few more wearings).

    Any fans of classic fougeres or Rive Gauche need to check this out. This is what Rive Gauche would be if it was reformulated with an unlimited budget and by God himself.
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  14. #74
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Today, I've been wearing another discontinued classic, Moschino Pour Homme.



    I've really enjoyed this one. It kicked off with a mace note, which was really quite awesome. It's mace, the cooking spice (it's used in pumpkin pie). It kind of smells like cinnamon or nutmeg, or even chickory. It's kind of sweet, spicy, and nuanced. While it doesn't smell like chocolate or coffee, it has the same kind of brown-hued complexity. It's a wonderful note - I can't believe no one uses it...

    The sweet spicy mace dominated the silage, while the smell on my skin was a little less exciting, a pretty standard 80's lavender/leather chypre, but quite well done and without any of those silly gasoline/ammonia/rubbing alcohol notes that were so popular in this sort of frag at the time.

    It changed very little over the course of the day. That mace note lasted forever, with the main change being that the whole mix got sweeter as the day went by and the galbanum finally made its way through the lavender and leather. Late in the day, a tiny pinch of vanilla came through underneath the chypre basenotes.

    If I were a bigger fan of classic lavender leathery chypres, I would probably be freaking out trying to track down a bottle of this. As such, I certainly want to try other frags based on mace. If you're a fan of sweeter classic chypres (PDN's New York comes to mind) and like the idea of a spicier take on the genre, you'd probably love Moschino Pour Homme. While it's discontinued, lots of places still seem to be selling minis of it - sample while you still can...
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  15. #75

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by SculptureOfSoul View Post
    Amouage Opus II -
    I suppose I can understand how people sniffing this on a card could think it's generic.
    You're wrong, SculptureofSoul! I found it intriguing when sniffing it on a card, but felt it was really generic when giving it a full wearing eventually.

  16. #76

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by Larimar View Post
    You're wrong, SculptureofSoul! I found it intriguing when sniffing it on a card, but felt it was really generic when giving it a full wearing eventually.
    Well then you're just.. wrong!

    That's interesting, though. I wonder if it is one of those that is sensitive to skin types. It behaved quite similarly on my skin as it did on the card.
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  17. #77
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    For the last couple of nights, I've been testing a discontinued Creed that almost no one ever talks about, Verveine Narcisse.



    This very much smells like a classic womens fragrance, a powdery chypre. It goes on with a multi-faceted mix of that classic-Creed lemon (which is actually mostly the verbena from the name). The perfumey tonka and the moss which are usually mostly basenotes are very present from the very top. There's also a sort of a green plant smell, which I'm guessing is the narcissus (it's not a note I'm familiar with) and just a tiny pinch of something minty or maybe camphorous. Within a few minutes, all the notes fuze together into a sort of powdery green mossy tonka smell that makes up most of Verveine Narcisse.

    The overall smell of this reminds me of cleaning out my grandmother's house. It's that smell of old clothes and old perfume and the smell of an older lady who gets her hair washed once a week at the salon. It's powdery and a bit stale and there's just a tiny whiff of grossness that's always in the background (which I think is a combination of the tonka and an especially animalic ambergris that arrives more fully a couple of hours in).

    The green plant note and the verbena fade first when the ambergris comes in, which eventually leads to a chypre base, heavy on the galbanum and vetiver (I think they're using the ambergris instead of patchouli). The whole life of the scent, until the vetiver end, is powdery.

    Verveine Narcisse belongs in the same powdery green chypre family as Geirlain's Chamade, but it doesn't have that beautiful moodiness that gives Chamade and other classics of its type their depth. Oddly, the entire life of the scent seems sped up - the whole trip from top to fading basenotes only lasts about 4 hours, even though it manages to go through all of its transitions instead of just fading early like most short-lived scents do. All in all, Verveine Narcisse is nice if you're into powdery, green, very old-smelling perfumes, but I personally think you could do better with many of the Basenotes favorites (Chamade, vintage Vent Vert, probably a couple of Carons) that are cheaper and easier to find.
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  18. #78
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Today at work I had a bit of a history lesson thanks to Crown Perfumery Marquis.

    Apparently, Crown Perfumery was an English house founded in 1872 in the same style as Trumper or Floris or Penhaligans. They made the same styles of traditional British barbershop scents (the did a spiced lime, as well as a fern and others like we know from the surviving houses).



    They were quite popular at the turn of the century and sold to the queen, thus allowing themselves to use their distinctive crown-shaped bottle stoppers.



    They basically shut down after World War I, selling their name to a soap company. In the late 90's, Clive Christian (at that point known for his interior design) bought the rights to the name and relauched the company, reproducing their top scents in revamped crown-topped bottles.



    A few years later, Clive decided to launch his now-famous much more expensive perfumes under his own name, so he discontinued the Crown Perfumery scents, but kept the bottle shape for himself, as well as a bit of their history (Clive Christian's 1872 is named after the year Crown Perfumery was founded).

    I'm assuming that the sample of Marquis that I have is from the 1990's re-release and not the vintage (and that the re-releases weren't 100% faithful to the originals), because it's more of a Creed clone than I can imagine would have been possible in 1928.

    It kicked off with a nice orange note, which was thankfully not that horrible faux-orange chemical that smells like Tang on me. It was quickly joined by violet leaf. If you can imagine Green Irish Tweed, but with orange on top instead of GIT's famous bergamot mix, and without the trademark Creed ozone and with less of the violet leaf, that's pretty much what Marquis smelled like for the first few hours. Given time, the violet leaf faded and the scent was taken over by an unexpected sweet, soapy neroli note with a pinch of vetiver, bearing a striking resemblance to Mugler Cologne. It pretty much faded from there without any true basenotes except for the white musk that gave the neroli its soapy smell.

    While pretty simple, the whole life of Marquis smelled pleasant and more natural than either GIT or Mugler. It's not an EDP, so it doesn't have the richness of a Creed, though. All in all, it's completely wearable and nice, though a bit unoriginal (I'm still assuming it didn't actually smell like this in 1928, because if it did, we'd all have to rewrite perfume history and give Crown Perfumery credit for inventing modern mens aquatics instead of GIT/Cool Water).

    Apparently, a few independent perfume stores still have stock left of the 90's Crown Perfumery re-releases (Parfums Raffy even has sample packs available), so get them while you still can. And if you're looking for a good citrus with a leafy green aquatic edge to it, Marquis may be a good place to start, especially if you're drawn to Creed's GIT or Original Vetiver but just can't fall in love with the Creed synthetics.
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  19. #79
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    BYREDO :BAL D" AFRIQUE:

    Top notes includes: bergamot, lemon, neroli, African marigold, Bucchu Middle notes includes: violet, jasmine and cyclamen Base is composed of black amber, musk, vetiver, moroccan cedarwood.
    The notes written on the official sample i used:Bergamot,Star Anise,Cardamom,Geranium ,Incense,Lavender,Vetiver,Moss,Patchouli!
    My nose caught:Neroli,Violet,Lavender ,Star Anise,Incense for SURE,Amber,Musc,Cedar and Vetiver!!!!

    This is a wonderful sensual,soft,fine and elegant sweet floriental woody...it has incense among the heart notes that gives a multi -dimension to this one!!!It has the sweetness of Allure and the sense of depth and darkness from the incense aroma!!!
    It lasts more than +12 hours...
    Last edited by sophi; 1st September 2010 at 12:04 PM.
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  20. #80
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Today I’ve been wearing JF by Floris.



    On first spray, it smelled an awful lot like Bond No 9’s Chez Bond, but with pepper on top. This means it was basically a mix of bergamot and calone, but JF added some noticeable orange in addition to the pepper. This mix of citrus and calone is also the basis for Eternity for Men, but JF managed to smell quite a bit classier than Eternity thanks to the nice bergamot and orange instead of Eternity’s artificial-smelling lemon. Given a little while, through some feat of chemistry, all of this stuff somehow combined to smell like aquatic maraschino cherries and, at that point, JF basically smelled like Creed’s Original Santal, but way watered down and minus the rich creamy basenotes.

    It basically stayed like that most of the day, like a thin Original Santal with extra calone. By the afternoon, the citrus and pepper had run their course, leaving a base of cedar and cinnamon, but made a bit more aquatic and chemical-smelling by the lingering calone.

    All in all, JF is a fine, wearable scent. In spirit, it reminded me of the Marquis I wore yesterday, in that it was sort of a trip through Creed territory, but minus the luxury concentration (though JF lacked the natural-smelling ingredients that made Marquis nice). It’s fine, and if you can score a bottle cheap, it’s better than Sean John or the more corporate Creed rip-offs. I’d personally wear GIT, Chez Bond, or Original Santal before reaching for this, but it’s way better than Eternity...
    Last edited by rogalal; 2nd September 2010 at 04:47 AM.
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  21. #81

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Obsession, really? That whole review of JF makes a lot more sense to me if I substitute Eternity (an aromatic fougere like Chez Bond and JF) for Obsession (a spicy, woody oriental) throughout.
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  22. #82
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    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    Obsession, really? That whole review of JF makes a lot more sense to me if I substitute Eternity (an aromatic fougere like Chez Bond and JF) for Obsession (a spicy, woody oriental) throughout.
    Doh - I think you're right. I had a blank-out. Its too hot here... I just edited my review. Urgh.
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  23. #83

    Default Re: Samples Of The Day - August 2010

    No worries! Your whole series of sample reviews has been hugely informative for me, and I'm glad I could help bring clarity to the latest installment!
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