Try some vetiver.
I've always wanted to make my own fragrances and only recently discovered you can do it yourself, so have been reading up on it a little. My question is: what essential oils would you say are essential or at least very useful in a fragrance for men? I'm guessing that when it comes to top and middle notes anything is possible if used in the right combination but what essential oils should I invest in first? I have a few already which are petitgrain, benzoin, thyme, cypress, clary sage and patchouli. Are there others that I will find indispensible, and can you recommend me some others which I will find useful?
thanks in advance for your advice. The process of designing a fragrance seems like a such a dark art that I'm a little intimidated by it all and not really sure where to start but determined to give it a go!
Try some vetiver.
Quintessential male notes:
I'd focus a lot more on base notes, as they tend to be more distinct in male fragrances:
Basenotes: Wood, leather, smoke, animal, fresh dirt and grass, machine oil type notes
Woods: Sandalwood*, fir, cedar*
Leather: labdanum*, galbanum, tobacco absolute
Smoke: Birch tar*
Animal: Castorium, Civet (a bit girly), musk (synthetic animalid), amber accord*
Dirt and grass: Oakmoss*, Vetiver*, hay, tobacco
Get premixed synthetic accords for leather, animal and woods from perfumers apprentice to save time and reduce the number of absolute you need to buy. The ones that are a must are marked with *
For mid/top notes: I like woody florals and spicy ones for mids, and citrusy for tops
Floral: rose*, ylang/cananga, mimosa, tuberose* (also ok to use a synthetic floral accord, or a bit of JOY)
Spicy: nutmeg*, clove*,cardamom*, mace, saffron, clary sage,
Citrus: bergmot*, mandarin*, lemon/lime (I'd again just get the citrus or cologne accord from perfumers apprentice)
Try experiment with triads picking one base, one mid and one top note and then adding others to modify them
Hope this help. I got started about 6 months ago, and this scheme has been really helpful