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  1. #1

    Default Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Hi,

    I'm just starting to get into DIY fragrance blending and have ordered some essential oils which I am expecting any day now. I am particularly fond of woodsy, spicy, masculine chypre frags and orientals and wondered if any of the more experienced noses amongst you would have any suggestions about combining the oils that I have, including the relative proportions. My oils are:

    Mandarin
    Bergamot
    Peppermint
    Basil
    Cypress
    Ylang Ylang
    Black Pepper
    Ginger
    Tibetan Musk
    Cedarwood
    Vetiver
    Patchouli

    I'd also welcome your comments on whether this is a good selection of notes to start out with or not, and what others I should consider acquiring next. Thanks.

  2. #2
    oliverandco
    Guest

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Hi voodoodanny,

    i am also an amateur.

    Vetiver is Haiti or Bourbon?

    I think you can try a base - middle note with Vetiver and Patchouli, maybe Cedarwood, depending if Virginian Cedarwood or Atlas... I found that Virginian Cedarwood it doesn´t mix with Vetiver as well as Atlas. I am starting, so my opinion is similiar that the opinion you can have.

    As middle notes you can try with cypress and top notes a bit of black pepper and a hint of ginger. Be careful with these ingredients, cause the are strong and may dominates all mix.

    Then you can try with bergamot, peppermint, mandarin... as your own taste.

    How is your working method? Drops? Scale measure?
    Are you going to dilute in alcohol or oil?

  3. #3
    oliverandco
    Guest

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Hi voodoodanny,

    i am also an amateur.

    Vetiver is Haiti or Bourbon?

    I think you can try a base - middle note with Vetiver and Patchouli, maybe Cedarwood, depending if Virginian Cedarwood or Atlas... I found that Virginian Cedarwood it doesn´t mix with Vetiver as well as Atlas. I am starting, so my opinion is similiar that the opinion you can have.

    As middle notes you can try with cypress and top notes a bit of black pepper and a hint of ginger. Be careful with these ingredients, cause the are strong and may dominates all mix.

    Then you can try with bergamot, peppermint, mandarin... as your own taste.

    How is your working method? Drops? Scale measure?
    Are you going to dilute in alcohol or oil?

  4. #4
    oliverandco
    Guest

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    It would be great if you get some rosewood oil

  5. #5

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    I always want to suggest a few synthetics. Before I started using them I didn't get anywhere with my blends. Here are a few suggestions:

    Vanillin or Ethyl vanillin. Most blends benefit from a bit of vanilla and these are more useful than the real thing. Ethyl vanillin is stronger abd less sweet than vanillin proper.

    Hedione. Fresh note found in natural jasmine. I use it all the time.

    Musks. "Tibetan Musk" sounds like a perfume oil, a ready-made blend to be used as is. There are many synthetic musk molecules to choose from. My favourites are velvione, ethylene brassylate and ambrettolide.

    Linalool. Natural-smelling floral/aromatic. Present in lavender and rosewood and about 95% of all available fragrances.

    Iso E Super. A smooth, woody basenote that seems to blend well with everything. Wonderful.


    If you want to make chypres you will need oakmoss, which is a horribly sticky material and messy to use. It smells wonderful though. Labdanum is also a classic ingredient in a chypre blend.

    And, when you can afford it, buy some more floral oils and absolutes. Jasmine is indispensible! Centifolia rose and neroli are lovely too.

    Have to go now! I'll try to add more later.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Quote Originally Posted by voodoodanny View Post
    Hi,

    Mandarin
    Bergamot
    Peppermint
    Basil
    Cypress
    Ylang Ylang
    Black Pepper
    Ginger
    Tibetan Musk
    Cedarwood
    Vetiver
    Patchouli
    I'm a total amateur but here's my suggestions.

    Rosewood is my favorite clean bright note so I'd like to join the recommendation.

    With your current oils, I''d try and go for a Mandarin theme like this:

    Total volume: 10 ml (7ml Alcohol 95% + 2.5 ml distilled water)
    Total drops: 33

    Tibetan Musk: 6 (assuming this would be a fixer)
    Cedar: 4
    Vetiver:2

    Basil: 4 (this should back up some of the sweetness with a little spiciness)
    Patchouli: 4
    Bergamot: 2

    Mandarin: 9 (main theme)
    Ylang:2

    You can add 2 - 3 drops of ginger for added spiciness and concentration or increased volume.

    If the musk doesn't fix the formula, you'll have to redesign it assuming the Mandarin will disappear at some point.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Thanks for all the suggestions so far - I am interested in acquiring some oakmoss at some point. Are their any other oils or absolutes that lend similar qualities to an accord?

    Brokenose - I look forward to trying out a few of your suggestions, I'll let you know how my experiments go. Thanks too for giving quantities in 'drops' as that's how I prefer to work.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Welcome & good luck. Looking forward to read about your experiments.

    Some suggestions:

    I think you'd like Rosemary (a very potent spice), Cardemom (a sweet spice) and maybe Myrrh as a bitter wood.
    You might like grapefruit as a versatile dry citrus. I find Helichrysum a sort of smokey note that you might find a good addition.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Quote Originally Posted by Concord View Post
    I always want to suggest a few synthetics. Before I started using them I didn't get anywhere with my blends. Here are a few suggestions:

    Vanillin or Ethyl vanillin. Most blends benefit from a bit of vanilla and these are more useful than the real thing. Ethyl vanillin is stronger abd less sweet than vanillin proper.

    Hedione. Fresh note found in natural jasmine. I use it all the time.

    Musks. "Tibetan Musk" sounds like a perfume oil, a ready-made blend to be used as is. There are many synthetic musk molecules to choose from. My favourites are velvione, ethylene brassylate and ambrettolide.

    Linalool. Natural-smelling floral/aromatic. Present in lavender and rosewood and about 95% of all available fragrances.

    Iso E Super. A smooth, woody basenote that seems to blend well with everything. Wonderful.


    If you want to make chypres you will need oakmoss, which is a horribly sticky material and messy to use. It smells wonderful though. Labdanum is also a classic ingredient in a chypre blend.

    And, when you can afford it, buy some more floral oils and absolutes. Jasmine is indispensible! Centifolia rose and neroli are lovely too.

    Have to go now! I'll try to add more later.
    Concord, have you used synthetic vanillin that comes in powder? I just got some from Perfumer Apprentice for my experiments but don't know how to dilute it. Can I use it in oil based perfume? Thanks!

  10. #10

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Quote Originally Posted by voodoodanny View Post
    Thanks for all the suggestions so far - I am interested in acquiring some oakmoss at some point. Are their any other oils or absolutes that lend similar qualities to an accord?

    Brokenose - I look forward to trying out a few of your suggestions, I'll let you know how my experiments go. Thanks too for giving quantities in 'drops' as that's how I prefer to work.
    I'm also a beginner experimenting like you. Oakmoss is now one of my top three favourites.

    N.B. the prices of oakmoss resinoid and *how much you actually get delivered* vary more than for almost any other oil I've noticed. E.g. I bought 5ml that actually turned out to be about 2ml in the bottom of the bottle for about £5, then when to Amphora and found they do 10ml, actually a full bottle, for 5.50. Oakmoss is very potent and as thick as tar, so it'll go a long way!

    My latest favourite is White Birch -smells similar to Lapsang Souchong tea, or just like white birch if you've ever cut down a silver birch tree! It's extremely strong tho, and I'm having difficulty mixing it in a small enough proportion to not overwhelm everything else.

    I prefer Tangarine over Mandarin.

    I bought over the internet at first, then found Amphora locally which has a huge selection and was actually cheaper than the internet, and I could sniff things before buying (I bought palmarosa online and hated it).

    Some of the thicker oils won't come out as drops, so I find a 1ml pipette helps, you can tip the bottle and suck it up precisely.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Riso!
    Did you ever get any reply to your question on how to dilute your synt. vanillin? I have a the same question for a couple of synthetics in powder form. Thanks

  12. #12

    Default Re: Any 'recipes' using these ingredients?

    Vanillin can very easily be diluted into Alcohol at any ratio you might need.

    Many other powders can also, although Ethyl Maltol is particularly stubborn. Ethyl Maltol you might try simply at 1 or 2%. Many others work fine and easily.

    Personally, I simply place the powder DIRECTLY into my concentrate, and let it sit either for a few minutes, or overnight, seldom have I had a problem that the crystals don't dissolve in whatever is already in there.

    PK
    Paul Kiler
    PK Perfumes
    http://www.PKPERFUMES.com
    Gold Medal for "Best Aroma"; Los Angeles Artisan Fragrance Salon

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