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  1. #1
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    JaimeB's Avatar
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    Default Linden Flower as a perfume note — Blog article

    A brief article from Octavian Coifan's blog 1000 Perfumes, always worth checking out for perfumistas. This one is about a hypercritical CO2 distillation linden flower note. I first encountered this as a perfume note in a Parfums d'Orsay scent called Tilleul (the French word for linden tree). It's kind of exotic, a floral that doesn't really smell floral, the way some tree blossoms aren't really very floral. My other association with linden blossoms is pre-perfumista: my Spanish grandmother used to give me linden-flower tea when I was a kid, to calm me down when I was hyper or nervous.

    Anyway, Coifan is a storehouse of info on the exotic side of perfumes, so here goes:

    Last year I discovered one of the most beautiful raw materials ever - gardenia enfleurage and this year I had a similar revelation of natural beauty. Linden blossom CO2 produced by a very small European supplier hit my nose with the solar explosion of the summer. I have been fascinated with linden blossom since many years and it is hard to explain if it is the place given to that scent in Romanian poetry or the scent itself, sweet and narcotic during summer nights. There are several types of linden trees in Europe with different blooming periods. I know all of them and last year I gave a description of the scent. The new extraction type I have recently discovered (among other unusual flowers or plants like a new extraction of lilac or elderflower) is the essence of the late summer linden. The scent is the olfactory equivalent of the most delicious honey. The odor profile of the sample (CO2 extraction) is the exact replica of the flowers - no distortion and it is a top-middle note (not very tenacious). It has the profile of those summer linden trees, with their rich honey and almost aromatic notes that give the best tea but also some burnt notes like chicory. It has all the shades that are missing in the beeswax absolute and in several honey reconstitution. Deep, honey-genêt [broom] and hay-like with a bitter touch of violet leaf and chamomile, it can be considered also as a different type of tea note, warm and solar. The drydown is very special because it is almost animalic-sour urine-civet like a herbal note that starts to become dirty in the sun. With this new floral extraction we can understand the essence of Moment Suprême (Jean Patou) though there is no linden blossom extract inside. In Romanian language there is an expression that relates honey to sex and this new extract is the key to new sensual accords like those from Si Lolita. I wish there was also an extract of the other type of linden (early summer) with its narcotic and exhilarating scent (but not very honey). This CO2 extraction shows that linden is available to perfumery 100% real and this could represent a new direction for perfumes like nectar, both aromatic, vegetal, sweet and spicy that express the unadulterated beauty of nature as portrayed in L'Heure Bleue in 1912. Further studies in the extraction method and the type of flowers (botanic source, fresh, dried, etc) could provide more interesting linden blossom extracts.
    Yr good bud,


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  2. #2
    Lifelong Sniffaholic
    30 Roses's Avatar
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    Default Re: Linden Flower as a perfume note — Blog article

    Very interesting read, along with the article from last year whose link is in the text. Thanks for posting it!

  3. #3

    Default Re: Linden Flower as a perfume note — Blog article

    Thank you for the info, JaimeB. The lime blossom is a divine scent and not always used successfully. Real, fresh lime flowers are a gift from heaven, crushed in the hand and inhaled!
    "The sunset is deeper and longer. The scent of the jasmine is stronger." Miracles. Pet Shop Boys

    "Thick dome of jasmine
    (Under the dense canopy where the white jasmine),
    Blends with the rose,
    (That blends with the rose),"
    "The Flower Duet," Lakme by Leo Delibes, 1881

  4. #4

    Default Re: Linden Flower as a perfume note — Blog article

    Thanks so much for sharing this. It is one of the most interesting posts I have read on basenotes in a long time.

    I hope to explore this note in the future!
    Currently wearing: Augusto by Mazzolari

  5. #5
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    Mimi Gardenia's Avatar
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    Default Re: Linden Flower as a perfume note — Blog article

    Great read Jaime- thanks
    Petty small minded people have no place in my life.
    Currently wearing: Angel by Thierry Mugler

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